philbey

Take a look at the 4 door KE10 in the for sale threads, it's been for sale for a long time and noone seems interested. I reckon you'd have the same issues trying to get rid of a 4 door KE20.

Yeh, exceptionally better when you have too high a spring rate for your 20 year old spongy shocks on a corolla built to keep granny comfortable. Take a good look at the next slammed ke70 you see. Watch it as it rides the bumps in the road and it will continue to bounce around all the way down the road. It'll be lower and stiffer but whether it qualifies as "good handling" or "dodgy handling" is in the eye of the beholder.

I'd pay about 400 for a clean runner. You can pick up 5k liteaces off ebay for that sort of money and you get the added joy of driving around in a little van looking ridiculous! My 2 dismantled 5k's set me back 100 bucks each.

ahh, jip, its a ke30. There'll always be plenty of bonnets..... :)

get a real corolla man, a ke1x haha.

When you decide to sell it, my brother might have a few peso's handy and might be interested in this (we were going to try look at it when Kid sold it but you scored it too quick haha!)

Just modify the stock aircleaner and run a bit of duct hose down behind the grille. Easy cold air intake!

Engine nearly done. Got the bottom end done and as for compression ratio the maiden run will have some octane booster in it just in case. Hopefully my cam will have enough overlap to drop it a bit too! I still need to chop up a sump and make up a couple of baffles. I just need a spare sump, anyone got one in adelaide. Also considering heavier valve springs but I reckon I'll just suck it and see. My grand plans for remapped elec spark control is still grey. I can't be bothered with the Jaycar kit at the moment, I might just pay someone to recurve the dizzy for me and experiment with it later. Pics:

I was bidding on those SU's as well. Looking back you got a good price on them Jip! The bottom items must be solex's they don't look like Dellortos. I recall that the same seller was selling a second LYNX K Series manifold, is that item the same as the other one? If it is I'd be interested in buying it from you. The LYNX gear usually have part numbers cast into them

Some of the microtech stuff goes fairly cheap on Ebay.

Where have you looked and what do you mean by cheap?

you'll need to take the bolts out of the sump that connect it to the timing cover. You could probably do it with the sump on, but it would be easier without. Even if you just unbolt it and drop it down should be fine. Timing chains definitely break, but they make a hell of a lot of noise in the leadup to it. 18rc's are possibly the noisiest engine in the world for timing chain rattle.....

There's a few repeat offenders around the site. Maybe a quiet word from a mod if they persist? And the other pet hate: "I must of forgot it", "you should of seen it" etc. Sweet jesus its HAVE. Definitely pompous arseholes.

Hear hear. There's also a proliferation of people ending sentences with ay. Damn, that bugs me ay.

yeh whoops, should have read the "bolt on" bit in the title. funny as.

I've been into cop shops twice (vic) to ask for a breatho, both times they were very reluctant, but after a chat and assuring them I hadn't drunk at least an hour or so previously, they did test me. Neither time would they give a reading though. Always thought it was odd, the logic they use is that if I get pulled over 10 minutes later and blow over, they can get in to hot water. Odd thing is that I could drive through 2 breathos in one night and have the same trouble. Pisses you off, you just try do the right thing, but they don't allow it. Strange.

Nope, please refresh my memory haha.

Man, I'm pretty interested how you're going to grind your cam at home, you can't do it with a lathe you need a cam grinder. OR.. I've got a mate with a 4 axis CNC Mill that he can fit a grinding head too, but that took him 18 months to convert it to CNC and he had a 2 tonne Cincinnatti Mill to convert to begin with. That only gets halfway too, you still need to calculate your cam acceleration profile and model and program the mill. As for your skirts, what are you trying to get by shortening them? Less moving mass? taking them off will reduce the rotating mass bugger all if you consider the crank, rod and piston crown are all significantly more massive than the skirt.

Ease up lads, myles taste in rims might not be the same as yours but you don't need to get sidetracked pointing out you don't like em. Doubt you'll get much for the rims. To be honest, good trim rings you might get 30-50 bucks for but the rims themselves are everywhere.

Increasing venturi size can definitely improve performance, but too big can decrease performance. All about sizing it correctly.

Yeh, I've never seen a car that doesnt have spigots on the front. 25mm thick, thats pretty huge. Are your studs long enough? Because you can buy the best spacers in the world but if you only have 3 threads per nut engaging that'd be chaos. No need for tool steel, a lot of money for the wrong properties. Personally I wouldnt mess with spacers, hubcentric or not... just buy the right rims the first time.

only 15kmh, but you'll need about 20% more horsepower to do it! Mind you the 5 door might be more aerodynamic!

Not that it matters if I lost you because you aren't the one asking the question! :cool: In most cases the rim is supposed to centre on the hub, but friction interface takes the vertical load instead of the wheel studs. Spacers compromise the interface between the wheel and the hub centre and don't centre properly. Older cars often don't use his hub centre (hubcentri) wheel design on the back.

Correct me if I'm wrong but a lot of early model jap cars don't even run hubcentric rims on the rears.

Yeh it will work better for sure.