bLinded_

Glad you got her running again mate, even if it did cost a little bit more monies. Hope it's trouble free from now on :D

Procrastination is the best thing ever. I was always a last day/night before it was due person. There was a good motivational poster somewhere for it... ...But I'll find it later :D

Google says: GUD is an Australian comedic music-based trio comprised of Paul McDermott, previously of the Doug Anthony All Stars, former Gadflys guitarist Mick Moriarty, and Club Luna Band keyboard player Cameron Bruce. ... Not the choice of word I'd have picked. Maybe use "good" next time? The Witzl, awesome avatar man :y:

:) One of, if not, the best looking car on the site. Looks sooo much better in the sun. You'll have to update your signature now, but please use a real photo of it, that way I can see it each time I read a post of yours :y:

Throttle it by hand when your spraying around the engine bay :) Also, maybe check if you havn't already that the adaptor plate is bolted down TIGHTLY to the manifold and the carb to the adaptor plate. Mine did become slightly loose once upon a time and cause a leak.

Check for vacuum leaks. Water in a sprayer bottle works. Just spray around areas and hear if the car drops in revs. If so, you have found what could be the problem.

Still need to give the front guards a light roll and get a wheel alignment and I'll be set. I'm pretty happy with how it looks. :)

Ahh no worries. Bring on tomorrow :)

Need to turn the Sun up a bit over there :) Any chance of some brighter photos? Looks Awesome in those, but would love to see it a bit clearer. I do love this car though, really good effort with it mate :)

Mine had the same thing happen to it when it used to have the 32/36 on it. I am not 100% sure, but mine seemed to be caused from some crap/corrosion blocking up the idle jet. I stripped the carbie down, and gave it a thorough clean with carbie cleaner and I never had it happen to me again. It still could be a vacuum leak causing it, but if you can't find any then I'd suggest giving the carbie a good clean. Really easy to strip and clean and I think gasket kits are around $40 if you want to fully reseal it. Good luck :)

The Commodore wagon KYB shocks that fit have the part number 343113 if you do go down that path.

Update: Well, Today I decided I might make an effort to try and finally fit my wheels, which I have had sitting around for a while now. Due to being busy this afternoon/tonight, I thought I should start with the easy part and get the rears on. All they needed was a light roll of the inner lip to make sure that they won't scrub over bumps. Basically just used the angle grinder to do a few little nicks on the inner lip bit then just carefully used a hammer and block to fold it under without chipping the paint. Worked a treat, and didn't have any issues. Just going to re paint under there just to stop any rust. So yeah pictures below. I am happy with them. Just wish the guards/whole body was in a bit better condition. Few little dints all over it. :) So the hard part though will be the front. Well, more so, time consuming. The pair for the fronts, SHOULD have been an easy fit from other cars that I have seen, but the problem lies in the fact I have a Corona front end set-up in my car, where the hub offset is fairly larger than the standard front. So yeah, Corona front including LCAS makes 15x7 -2 rims sit like this: The plan for tomorrow and Monday (RDO :y:) is to refit the standard KE70 LCAs to reduce some of track, and then fit my set of camber tops I have sitting here to regain a little bit of camber. The new wheels will make up the extra track I had with the Corona LCAs and camber tops for the camber they made, but yeah bit of a stuff around to swap the parts over, but the rona LCAs did their job for the old rims. With that done, they SHOULD fit under the guards easily enough with a bit of a flare. Also am going to fit a pair of Power Steering arms which I bought as I have really been annoyed by the amount of lock lost with using the Corona Steering arms, which are looooooong. The Corona ones are ~10mm longer than the KE70 ones and 35mm longer than AE86 power steering arms iirc so yeah, will be good to be able to do tight U-Turns again :hmm: Will report in tomorrow or something if all goes well. :dance:

Wow, I guess you don't need any further convincing, but, seriously, I love it. I would sell my car with out a doubt to buy something like you are doing there. Looks really good with the black flares and light coloured body. Can't wait to see how she looks minus the tape holding the flares on. Good luck :y:

<3 Eta on assembled engine photos? :y:

BHG?

God damn! I had know idea that the timing chain cover could ever look like that :P Looks good so far mate, will be nice to see it all assembled. This motor is srs business.

Best analogy ever. ^^ :wink: The words K series and drifting should not be used together......unless it is wet. If you don't have the skills to do a 4age or the likes into the 55, save your money and just buy a drift ready s13.

Alright! 900K-Rudds richer! :wink:

To me, yes. But that was mainly because the stock Aisan one was half dead. That being said, when I put it on, it was jetted for a 1.6 and I had in on my 4k, so it was a tad sluggish down low, but it did make more power up high. By itself, it isn't a massive upgrade, but if you combine it with some other basic mods, it would be better.

Also, I previously had a 32/36 on my car. Very easy to put on if you are willing to have a go. Basically, unbolt old carbie, bolt on adaptor plate to manifold (with gasket in between) then carbie onto adaptor plate (again with gasket between). From there, just remove and plug up all the random vacuum lines apart from the vacuum advance from the Weber to the dizzy. You will need a small piece of 1/4? inch fuel hose (and 2 pipe clamps) to go from the original metal fuel line to the Weber as the stock line screws into the stock carbie, where as the Weber just has a hose barb. You may have to make your own throttle wheel/linkage for the carbie as some of them are a mechanical throttle as opposed to a cable pull. I use the one from the stock carbie and "modified" it to suit the Weber. I also just made a custom little bracket to hold the throttle cable in place. Basicaly a bit of mild steel bent to shape, welded, then bolted to some of the spare threads that are ontop of the rocker cover. There is a picture in the FAQ of a Nikki carbie onto k series which was on Medicine_Man's 4k. I used that as a guide when I did mine. Also, here is what mine used to look like if it helps. Hope that helps. -Alex Edit: Wrong photo :P

Might also help to pay a visit to some of the Datsun forums. Alot of the guys on there use them so you should be able to find one with a bit of searching. Also, L series adaptor plates for a 32/36 are the same as the K series manifold, so you might be able to score both as part of a deal. That way you won't have to fork out more money for a new adaptor plate.

Somewhat perfect timing of making this thread. I have this same task ahead of me, and this is a great help. Much easier to follow something with pictures than it is to go nuts and have absolutely no idea on the best way to do it. Good job :P

Still yet to get mine (N)

You all know taht drinking game called "kings"? Yeah, well, Absinthe, Goon and Vodka DOES NOT tast good at all when you have to down it straight.

I want your workshop! Looks good so far. I can remember reading your old thread but that was a long time ago. Will be looking forward to updates :hmm: