DARKMAZE

Initial meeting point: Jubilee Park Adventure Playground located just off Saltfleet Street at Port Noarlunga on the Southern Banks of the Onkaparinga River Meet Time: 10:30am Departure: 11:00am Cost: $5 per hand (optional) Will be a full day of enjoyable roads, scenery, locations and company with the chance of taking home a prize or two. It's a family friendly day, so hope to see everyone out there. For more information, refer to the Toyota Car Club.net website. http://www.toyotacarclub.net/index.php?pag...amp;eventid=263

Toyota Car Club.Net would like to extend an open invite to a BBQ/ Picnic Where: Thorndon Park - 5 Hamilton Terrace, Paradise (Just off Gorge Road) When: Monday March 8, 2010 @ 12:30 (Adelaide Cup Day) BYO your own everything or grab some of the sausages (with obligatory onion) and drinks we'll have available for $1 each. Come hang out with your loved ones and chat with some other enthusiasts. We'd even welcome some Toyoshow related banter. You are most welcome to bring your partner and some kids. The park has great facilities and there is plenty of parking For any additional information please call Pat on 0405 411 441 Or head on over to our forum: http://www.toyotacarclub.net/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1267103226 Looking forward to seeing you there. Just look for the Toyota Car Club .net banner.

In 2008 we had a testing bay setup for the sound off competitions, which was oversighted this year. For 2011 I'm certain it will return.

Due to a glitch in the entry process, the penalty free entry date has been extended until midnight tonight, so head over to http://www.toyotacarclub.net/index.php?pag...d=ToyoShow_2010 if you don't have your entrant number yet. Payment for your entry can be made either online using the paypal link from your entry or in person at the start of the cruise on Friday night. The online entry processing will be taken offline after midnight tonight, so ensure you have your (at least unpaid) entry in before then to avoid the late fee. Entries will also be accepted throughout the weekend at either the Cruise, Dyno or Show 'n' Shine. If you cannot get your online entry in, then print out the form below, fill it out, and get along to any of the events with your $30 ($40 to include dyno). The Cruise meets up at 6:00pm for a 7:30pm departure from the carpark next to the Henley Sailing Club on the corner of Burbridge and Seaview Roads. The cruise is free for ToyoShow Show 'n' Shine entrants, however other drivers can come along to check out the cars out on the road, and grab a copy of the route instructions for a gold coin donation (driver and vehicle details will need to be provided to allow the organisers to keep track of who is on the cruise). Offline Entry Form: http://www.toyotacarclub.net/ToyoShow/2010/ToyoShow2010.pdf

ADELAIDE TOYOSHOW 2010 February 19th, 20th and 21st Wigley Reserve, Glenelg, South Australia Friday: Super Cruise Saturday: Dyno Competition Sunday: Show n Shine Heaps of prizes to give away! Open to all Toyotas and Toyota inspired cars. After a twelve month absence, ToyoShow is back in 2010 looking to be bigger and better than ever before. The awards have been reorganised and judging has had a complete rehash so as the car that is the best overall is guaranteed to win and allow seperation of enthusiasts daily drivers from outright show machines. Go To www.toyoshow.com for more information. Click here: TOYOSHOW 2010 ONLINE ENTRY FORMS TOYOSHOW 2010 PAPER ENTRY FORM Get your entry forms in as soon as possible, as spots are limited. Dyno is limited to 40 cars. ToyoChamp 2010 Show and Shine: Classic 1st 2nd Show 1st 2nd Enthusiast 1st 2nd Matron of Modified Entrants Choice Top Club Display No Plate Award Top Interior Top Paint Best Displayed Vehicle Top Engine Bay Best 4x4 Encouragement Award Loudest Exhaust Sound Off: Highest db - 1st 2nd Dyno: Horsepower Hero Top 4 Cylinder - 1st 2nd Top 6 Cylinder - 1st 2nd Top 8 Cylinder - 1st 2nd

Yeah.. Looks like you got those links a little wrong there lesley.

A toyoshow 2008 Gallery has been setup, and we would appreciate any photos taken from the weekend that you may have taken be uploaded. ToyoShow Photo Gallery Upload http://gallery.toyoshow.com/upload And for the legal disclaimer.. *By uploading your image(s) you understand that you relinquish copyright on that image, and that ownership of that image transfers to ToyoShow. (standard legal jibberish to cover them for using your uploaded images).

More details on the event have been made available with the entrants advice sheet now online. Entries can still be made at the start of the cruise (details in link below). http://www.toyoshow.com/index.php?p=infosheet

More details on the event have been made available with the entrants advice sheet now online. Entries can still be made at the start of the cruise (details in link below). http://www.toyoshow.com/index.php?p=infosheet

Hamra Homes ToyoShow 2008 Friday 1st February 2008 Saturday 2nd February 2008 Sunday 3rd February 2008 For the latest information, visit www.toyoshow.com or check out the ToyoShow forum

So.. Basically, if I get a single piece bracket made (milled?) up to mount the supra (RA60) caliper to the AE71 strut, with MA61 disks, it should be alright. He was mainly worried about the (to put it 'bluntly') 'cut'n'shut' job of the bracket then. Oh.. And I'd love to say thanks for the inspirational job you've done here. I've just started studying mechanical engineering at the moment, and if I can produce something half as good as you're result, I'll be a very happy camper.

Can I ask what was the issue with the brakes. I only wonder, as I was looking at going with the MA61 supra fronts on my AE71 to go with the 20 valve. Surely it's not that they are not good enough at stopping the car, as I've only heard good reports about the ability of supra brakes to stop the lighter AE's?

Funnily enough, I was just reading your thread this morning... :)

I didn't happen to notice anything like that. Can you see it in the engine bay pics posted? I did check, but I've forgotten, so I'll look again tonight, and let you know. Don't know how to tell if it had rust protection though? Well, took it out for it's first run last night, and have decided that my plans need to take a different direction. While the engine upgrade will be great, I had a 'hairy' moment or two that I think I'll need to look at first. Ran out of brakes at out point on a downhill section approaching a 10-20km/h hairpin that I was expecting and so had already slowed for. Foot was at the floor, and then I grabbed the handbrake too. My mate behind me says that there was a tonne of smoke pouring off of the brakes. but she just wasn't wanting to slow. Galdly it all ended well (just), and I made it round the corner, however I think that the brakes will definately need to be looked at first. Also the suspension seemed to be a little too floaty for my liking, so I think I'll have to look at that as well. So it looks like I'll be keeping the 4ac in there for a while longer than initially expecting. I think the first point of call might have to be adding some new upgraded pads (the fronts were pulled off the car we got the disks and calipers off at U-Pull-It) to see if that doesn't improve things, and if not then look at something to improve on the abilities. But I'd rather not go through anything dramatic just yet as I don't want too much engineering to be required until I'm getting closer to being able to do it myself.. Any suggestions for bolt on upgrades? As for progress, I've managed to almost strip all the paint from the roof, and started on the boot, but the major work from the last while has been to get the clutch changed which required waiting for some new plate bolts when one of them sheared off in the flywheel (luckily it was only in hand tight, so it was easy to get out).

Well, we solved the issue. The starter motor lead was hooked up to the earth on the distributor, and the earth from the coil was hooked up to the starter motor... :) Switched them around the 'right' way, and now she's running like a bought one... :) Thanks for the advice though guys..

That would be great if you could. Will no doubt help in the removal of the immobiliser.

Well, we got the engine out, new clutch in, and put everything back into the car... Tried to start it up last night, but get no dice.. Ignition on puts the lights on the dash, but when I put the key to start, all that happens is the brake light comes on. No noises. No movement. Now, I did happen to break a wire or two in the engine removal process (whoops), but being a 4ac, we kinda figured it wouldn't be all that hard to figure out. There is a crappy kill switch type immobiliser on the car that I have a feeling may be causing the issue, so I was hoping that someone might happen to have access to a wiring diagram that might help in our endeavour to get the thing running again and probably removing the dodgy immobiliser? So, the theory is either we got ont of the 5 wires in a AE71 ignition wrong, or the immobiliser is doing dumb things. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Well, I picked up this Blue spirit for the pricely sum of $350 with no rego, two blown tyres, macked brakes all round, a clutch that made driving the car more like an automatic that did a kickdown everytime you touched the throttle and a really bad paintjob. However, all the important points were there. Very little rust, straight panels and a near overrated interior. It even had the original paperwork that came with the car (manuals, etc), and something resembling a service history up to around 50,000km... :y: The engine is strong and doesn't blow even the slightest smoke. Did you know that Toyota recommends a specific part number for the coolant to put into the 4AC... There was even a sticker on the car with the recommendation that's how important the correct coolant is.. :jamie: ANyways... On with the pictures.. As you can see, the paintjob needs a real freshen-up, but 'most' of the rust is just on the surface, and nothing that a little sanding wont cure.. And my partner in crime has already gone about the task of removing the timing belt cover and fitting a white cam wheel and red cam cover.. Bling on a 4ac.. ;) As I'm studying mechanical engineering, I'm hoping to use the car to help me develop some of my skills. The plan at the moment for future mods are: Phase 1: 4AGE 20 Valve swap Monroe Shocks Whiteline spring lowering kit, swaybar and strut tower brace. LSD + Disk brake rear Phase 2: Upgraded brakes (may require suspension replacement?) Phase 3: Supercharger (maybe swap to a GZE) Upgraded brakes IRS setup for rear I know that Phase 3 sounds stupid, but I'm thinking it'll be an 'interesting' customization job.

Cheers for the advice guys. Pulling the unit out as one was really easy.. Except that now we've gotten a gearbox worth of oil on the ground.... oops.... :jamie: So easy that it's convinced my partner in crime that I don't need a hole in the firewall. Hoever, when I put the gearbox back on this time, the 'offending' bolt will not be done up with a billion NM of torque, thus meaning it'll be not so hard should we elect to do the operation again sometime.. Now I only wish I had the digital camera last night for some more pics with the parts on the hoist coming out of the car for the collection.. ;) Oh well..

Adelaide.. But, it sounds like pulling it out as one unit is the go. We've gotten it to almost ready to pull out, but we were trying to do it with leaving the gearbox in-situ, however this one bolt is giving us the shits.. My mate reckons I should put a hole in the firewall where this bolt is (and then plug it) so it will make the job easier next time. I'm reckoning that it wont be required if removing the whoel assembly as one is as easy as you guys are saying..

The particular bolt I'm referring to is on top of the gearbox, and has about 7cm between the top of the bolt and the firewall, and of course, you have tou reach up over the gearbox and behind the engine to reach it. It would probably not be so bad if I could get a socket onto it, but there isn't quite enough room down there for a socket wrench. Let alone a rattle gun or a breaker bar....] Thining about pulling out both gearbox and engine as one, but that involves removal of gearshift, etc, etc and we were figuring surely there is an easy way to remove this part. To change the clutch for example, surely I don't have to pull out the whole damn thing.

I'm trying to get the engine out of my newly purchased AE71 spirit to clean up the engine bay, change the clutch, etc, however I've hit a bit of a snag. We cannot seem to get any amount of decent force onto the top bolt in the back of the gearbox on the drivers side (RHD). Does anyone have any tips as to an easy way to get the bolt undone? It seems that whenever we get a ring spanner onto the bolthead, the other end of the spanner is either hitting the firewall, or we can't get it onto the head as it's fouling on the back of the engine? Any help would be much appreciated. The only thing I can come up with is buying a longer ring spanner that's straighter than the ones we are trying to use at the moment.