Banjo

OK, 1. What is the model of the OEM Bosch fuel pump ? 2. Where is this Bosch fuel pump mounted ? Up near the motor, or in the boot or rear of the car, near the fuel tank ? 3. Is the fuel pump making a rattling noise, as they usually do, when they are empty or dry ? 4. Are you using the original fuel lines in the KE-70, or has the previous owner modified that aspect also ? 5. Have you tried a small 5 litre can of fuel, on a stepladder, next to the car, higher than the engine; with a plastic tube gravity feeding fuel to your Weber carby ? Once you know that the engine runs OK, with an alternative fuel supply, in a can; then it is time to work backwards from the carby, testing fuel lines for leaks etc. However, if the KE70 has been standing idle for a long while, it maybe more fruitful, if you start at the fuel tank & pickuo, if your suspicions are right about the rubbish in the tank. Let us know what you find. Cheers Banjo

Really good that You have a grand father, with lots of Toyota experience. Olde engines can have lots of issues, that are hidden, that may not completely prevent them from running; but create conditions, in which they don't run well, at all. Common is one cylinder, that is "not pulling it's weight", due to burnt or pitted valve seats. Rocker arms, with grooves in them where they contact the valve ends. Cracked or soft valve spring/s. One cylinder with poor compression. The list goes on. If it was me, I'd be running the engine up to temp, then whipping all the spark plugs out, taking note of which spark plug was installed in each cylinder; & doing a compression check. Even checking the colour of the insulator inside the spark plug, can indicate a cylinder not combusting well. Next would be checking all the valve clearances, although as you have the rocker cover off; it would also be a good idea to remove the rocker gear, & check the sliding face of the rocker arm, where it comes in contact with the valve end. The carby could well need a complete clean & overhaul, but unless you can achieve reliable fuel supplyto it; it cannot be tuned. I still believe you may well have a minute leak in the fuel line, that is compromising the pressure at the carby. Disconnect the fuel line at each end. Blow pressured air though it in both directions, & see in any rubbish or rust comes out. Block one end, & feed air pressure at the other end. Check the line & any rubber joiners for leaks, via hearing, but to be sure, spray the outside of the line with water, & look for little bubbles, created by escaping air. I gather you have fitted a new pump, so we can eliminate that. It's attention to all these small details, that will turn up, what your engine's problem, really is. Don't lose sight of the fact, that it might not be just one fault, that is contributing to your woes. In olde cars, it can often be a couple of issues. eg: Have you removed the air filter, & guaged whether the engine runs better with or without the filter ? It will be something quite small; but you can only find it, by methodically working through each of the above. Let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo

Even if your car is parked on a hill, when you turn off the engine, there will be fuel in the carburetor bowl, which will be enough; to at least start it, next day. If you have fitted a new fuel pump, then the problem. is either in the fuel line, or in the pickup or pipework in the fuel tank itself. My first suggest would be to remove the inlet line to the fuel pump, & blow back down the line, to the tank. Get a mate to listen at the fuel filler hole, with the cap off, & he/she should hear the air bubbles in the tank. If good, that means it is not entirely blocked. It could still have a leak somewhere, where the mechanical fuel pump cannot pull fuel through, even though the pump is new. It's easier for the pump to suck air than fuel. Next step, is to get under the car & inspect the fuel line in detail. Look for damp patches. Check any rubber joiners, which are often old, hard dry, & cracked. Replace ! If still no joy, then it will be time to remove the fuel tank, from the boot, & take out the pick-up stork, complete with the fuel guage sender. I'm presuming you have taken the top of the carby, & checked that the needle & seat, plus float, are all working OK. If the car has been sitting for a long time, & the fuel has been sitting or evaporated, it can often leave a whitish looking residue on any part in contact with the fuel, which has since evaporated. Let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo

I'm just in the intial phases of fitting an electrically powered water pump, to my 5K Engine, that is sitting on a test bed, in my garage atm, with my trigger wheel project thereon. I was wondering, if anyone on this forum, has ever done this before; or knows of anyone on here, or, elsewhere on the internet; that has accomplished this mod previously. I'm currently just figuring out how to create an inlet coolant spout, for the front of the motor. Well, that bit didn't work ! I was hoping to keep it all Corolla, but the top hose spout, points in the wrong direction. Cheers Banjo

Looking forward to that Tomas, & being of any assistance, if needed. Cheers Banjo P.S. When you get started keep a camera close by, if you run into issues. I picture of what you are trying to do or achieve, usual is much better than a thousand words.

It was obvious from your pic, that your KE55 had been resprayed. It couldn't possibly have been that shiny, after all those years. You've reminded me, that I have on my long list of things "to do"; that I must write a chronological list of all the cars I've owned or driven, for extended periods of time, including work supplied vehicles. In my teens, I was very much into older English cars, as that was what my Dad & Brothers had. Morris 6, Hillmans, & Morris Minors, & even a 100E & a 105E Ford Anglia. It was not until I did two stints, working in PNG, over 10 years, that I became aware, how incredibly strong & reliable, Toyota vehicles were. I lived in the highlands where everyday roads, were so bad; 4 X 4 enthusiasts down south, would drive hours to get to conditions like that. It was everyday for us. Being just below the equator, rainfall was high, & often roads became unpassable with slips & the likes. I used to carry a slab of beer in all my vehicles. If I got really stuck, I would tell the locals, the slab of beer was theirs, if they picked up the car, & got me to the other size. It worked every time, except once. I had an early Subaru. They carried me across a swollen river, but put the car down about 10 metres out from the bank, where I could drive out. The water was about 1/3 way up the doors. Unfortunately, the pressure of the water, under the car, popped the boot seal around the gear stick, & the car filled with water, up to my seat. Cheers Banjo

Hi Col, Well I'll be ! Truely an older sister. Same colour. Same wheels; & by the looks of it, your's had a louver on the rear window, like mine ? So what happened to yours ? Did She suffer the same fate with cancer, as mine ? Cheers Banjo

Yep ! Big long bumper bars, that wrapped right around; front & back, just like this one. Mine had the big rubber strips on all the corners. I just found an olde picture of Her, before the hidden rust set in. Was a wonderful car, with a 5K & 5 speed manual GB. R.I.P. Cheers Banjo

The Accuspark module, basically replaces the points in a compatible distributor body, with a non contact Hall Effect device. It also has an ignitor built in, but does not have the amperes switching ability; to drive a impedance/high amps/Hi Performance "sports", ignition coil, without the risk of the inbuilt Accuspark module failing. However, they are extrememly reliable, & I've still got one in use on my daily drive; & like Graeme above, it's been in service for years. However, It has no effect on the timing advance of the spark; & still relies on the little bob weighs & fiddly springs, in the base of the dissy body, under the contact points plate. Unfortunately, when these dizzies get old, all those little fine spings & bob weighs do not work well, if at all; as rarely does that plate get removed & all the moving bits get lubricated with sewing machine oil. The Electronic dizzies on ebay, do have the advantage of having new bob weighs & springs, but the advance curve, may not suit your engine, as I am led to believe, they used an advance curve more suited to the 5K engine. That's why many of them, are labelled 5K electronic dizzy, on ebay. In my 4K-U engine, I used a 3K dizzy, which is the small narrow one. That is the body the Accuspark unit was designed for. I didn't use the bob weights & springs, but "locked" the shaft up, & added an external programable inition system, where you could map the advance curve. Just looking at your olde dizzy; I doubt the Accuspark module would suit or fit it. By all means grab an ebay one, & it will work, but understand, that the advance curve might not be ideal. Have a read of previous discussions, here on Rollaclub; about the Accuspark alternative, back about 6 years ago. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73743-electronic-distributor/#comment-712673 Here is a guy replacing a dizzy on a 4 banger. Happens to be a Mini, but the techniques are simmilar to your K Series engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xU8psFVA58E The link in our previous thread back a few years, for purchasing Accuspark products doesn't work. The current address & contacts, is as follows . . . They also appear to have an on-line ebay store. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/153397333807?epid=1942333648&hash=item23b7318f2f:g:Nh4AAOSwd-pjHdNG&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwHHVC6r1Ht9xqCGuXDq8Sns%2Bxw4k8hFKghOYZwL2bVg5nSt7s7f8a0iC1KRbNBuWwv5kbA4lqj%2F8ZYjyTRdc2dmHlrFdXZ5W6XVG1DxZ2Weax%2BYOWwNrMF27KsTNTIY5BZV%2Bc59yMOxUSKa%2BJTAQRC7zAFmG80URsgXFblC0Juw2yrDqAKE3jJM2Rimx3ZzpJ5izYchQ3f5cUAw7Hw%2BdReQiVcJoFMOoGDeHSSMA%2BjF7kYwCQLZLwSQXiGEc7kkA5Q%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6qhw-yjYg Suits the Nippondenso Dizzy, used on 3K & 4K engines. Cheers Banjo

Hi Phil, Welcome aboard, & we will forgive your 40 year Mazda obession ! Most of us on here, are also "obsessed". I'm not familiar, with the "E" prefix on Toyota Corolla models, but on many early Japanese cars, the "E", usually designated, that the engine, had "Electronic" ignition; when electronic ignition, was new, & not in widespread use. There are a few members on here that have, or have had KE55Es. Just search the threads & you'll come across them. Here are a couple of pics, from this website depicting KE-55s, with both round & square headlights, with the different grills. I had a KE55 2 Door pillarless, coupe with square headlights, which went to Corolla Heaven, after suffering severe cancer, of the rear upper quaters. I'll dig out a picture of it later, & post it here for you. I stripped it, when it was no longer roadworthy, & believe, I still have the square headligh grill stored away. My personal feeling is, that the square headlight versions, were the most attractive. In fact, I liked the square headlight look, I converted my KE30 2 door sedan, from round to suare headlights. Where are you located ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Tomas, There are a number of people selling after-market KE-2X uni joints, on ebay. They are commonly available, in places like Malaysia & Thailand; where the early Corollas, were very, very popular, & they still keep them going. https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313&_nkw=universal+joints+Toyota+Corolla+KE25&_sacat=0 Here is a u-tube video, which describes how to change the uni-joints, yourself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atxj3izLg3A Just look how dry the needle rollers are, when He pulls it apart. Let us know how you fare. Cheers Banjo

Hi Tomas, When a car gets to as olde as your KE26 is; things start to wear out, & clunk & rattle. The "drive train" from the back of the engine to the rear wheels , encompasses, gearbox, tail shaft & differential; all parts, which last a long time, & rarely receive any attention, until they make a noise, or a vibration, as is, in your case. Differentials, are usually easy to identify, as they make large clunking noises, taking up the wear in the pinion & gear wheel. The tailshaft, as you have identified, is probably the most likely cause of the vibrations. The universal joints, last years & years, but are made up of a number of small needle rollers, in a cup bearing, around the cross joint. These needle bearings, wear out & can collapse, especially if the uni joints are sealed units, without facilities, to pressure grease them ocassionally. Your suggestion, of taking the tailsft out, & having a specialist replace the uni joints, with new ones completely, sounds like a very going starting point. A Typical Universal Joint If you take out the tailshaft, after draining the gearbox, you should be able to feel any slop or wear in the two uni joints, just by hand. Considering the cars age, the tail shaft, may well perform better, if it is balanced also, whilst it is out; but a specialist, will be able to determine that for you. I think you are on the track, but being a very olde car, replacing the uni joints, may not be the total cause of your vibrations. However, it will be a good start. Please let us know what you find. Cheers Banjo

After reading your post again, I'm not sure whether you are referring to fuel, or oil pouring out ? The "spacer" / "insulator" is a fraction under 10mm in thickness, from the one I measured here this morning, fitted to a running engine. If it is oil, then it is simply a case that the preparation of the mounting land on the block, & fuel pump, have not been prepared well, or no gasket goo applied. There is a lot of oil being "splashed" around, inside the block, at that point. The seal of the fuel pump, to the block, must be totally secure. That's why all new pumps, are supplied with two new gaskets, (one either side of the spacer/insulator). Cheers Banjo

Remove the fuel pump, & insulator, between the block & the pump mounting flange. Measure the width, or thickness of the insulator. This is critical. If it is too narrow, the travel of the fuel pump action will be too great, & damage will occur. It's too late, & too cold now, to head out to the shed, & measure the correct thickness, but off memory, it's quite thick, like somewhere between 10-15mm. Most replacement pumps come with two (2) gaskets, that go either side of the insulator mounting spacer block, but do not supply that block itself. I'll check that figure in the morning, & post it here. Cheers Banjo

I think when I was young & stupid, there was a name for them, whether they were a Mitzy or any other brand. "Shaggin Waggons" Used to be very popular with surfers. Boards on the top ! What a line up ! If you look down the comments list in this link, There was a guy who had a Corolla "Shaggin "Waggon", at high school. Cheers Banjo

While eating my lunch today, I Googled images of the Mitzy L300 van, to see what people around the world do to; & do with them. Some are really remarkable. We need pics of yours, please. Cheers Banjo

Great sketch Duffman ! You've missed your calling in life. Excellent ! You could easily sell those on-line ! I'd buy them, to line my den ! Cheers Banjo

When reassembling an engine, assuming one gets, all the right bits, in all the right places, & bolt tensions are correct, there is not too many procedures that can go wrong, assuming, you "take your time". However, one area, where the novice can come unstuck, is setting ring gaps, if you are fitting a new set; particularly if the block has been rebored. The following article on HP Academy, is probably one of the best I have read, in a long time. https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/get-your-gap-right-piston-ring-gap-explored/ Cheers Banjo

Haven't got any KE20 LCAs, but measured my KE30 LCA, & can confirm 310mm is correct. Cheers Banjo

Hi Russell, Assuming the starter motor did turn over previously, & there is a good "earth strap" between the car's chassis & the engine block, then the first place I would be looking, is the "terminal bolt", attaching the heavy cable fron the battery +ve terminal, to the starter motor itself. If that is OK, then you will be looking for a lack of power to one or more "control" circuits. If for instance, if your lights all work, but the starter motor is dead, when you turn the key; then you have narrowed it down to the starting circuit. If however, everything is dead, then it may well be a burnt out in-line fusible link, that got "zapped", while hooking up jumper leads. P.S. Also remove the cover on the fuse block down below the steering wheel, & see if there is 12 volts on any of the fuses. If you do, find a fuse with 12 volts on it, check that there is volts, on the other end of that fuse. If not, the fuse will probably bee blown. Any fuses with no volts on either end, doesn't mean that the fuse is blown. Some fuses only have voltage applied to them, when the ignition switch is on. Let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo

Hi Russell, Your best friend in this situation, is a trouble shooting light, which are cheap, & can be found at any auto supply place, or even reject & cheap shops. You simply, hook the earth clip to the chassis somewhere, & then probe at various points from the battery +ve terminal, until it all of a sudden, the voltage isn't there. There is a "master fuse link", that doesn't even look like a fuse, but is usually mounted close to the battery itself. That will show up the open circuit, very quickly. Let us know how you go, & what you find. Cheers Banjo

Hi Col, That is absolutely beautiful, & takes me back to when I had a KE55 2 door, pillarless coupe. What a car it was with a 5K & a 5 speed box. I do miss it, as it went to "Corolla Heaven", after suffering terminal cancer in the upper back quarters, behind the side rear side windows. Being pillarlees, that model relied very much on those rear quarters. It does live on a bit somewhere as I sold the rear floor & wheel arches to someone on the Sunshine Coast, who wanted to "Tubb" his rear end. I'm gathering that is straight off the boat, & has been imported from the UK ? I had a quick look at some of the video of the Lombard Rally, to see if I could spot it in action, but not knowing what year it last competed, I couldn't find it. I loved that model, as it seemed so perfectly proportioned, & attractive to boot. I gather this one was probably a KE35 SR model. I can't see the grill, or the front edge of the bonnet clearly. Fill me in. Those alloy wheels just suit it to a "T". So I guess we'll see it in the next East Gippsland Rally, amongst the trees ? Cheers Banjo

Bloody Hell ! Talk about a blast from the past. Haven't seen You on here for 3-4 years, I reckon. Yeah ! That was a long time ago. i joined back in 2004, I think. You were a little bit behind me, around 2008. However, I'll never get anywhere near your posts. 8000 + ! I haven't got to 1700 yet. Don't knock "small hippie towns in New Zealand". My grandfather came from Kaiapoi, just outside Christchurch, on the South Island. I used to travel back & forwards to NZ, on business. I used to love seeing those big ships unloading all the domestic Jap Imports, in Auckland. Little "narrow gutted" things, because they used to charge rego on the width of a car in Japan, because the city streets were so narrow. https://garagedreams.net/car-facts/why-are-japanese-cars-so-small Keep in touch ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Jack, According to the Wiki on Rollaclub, the No 3 Head is a standard head on a 4K engine, so looks like your head & block go together,, & somehow, it go fitted with a set of 3K shorter pushrods. Cheers Banjo

It looks like you've nailed it Jack ! However, if someone who put this engine together previously; made that big mistake, there could be other issues or mistakes "lurking". I'd be pulling the head off, & taking a look. If you don't want to pull the head off, which allows You to check bore wear, at the top; valves & seats; & most importantly, the colour of the build up in the combustion chamber; then the very least, you should do, is a compression test. The head number is cast into the head on the outside of the head, between no: 3 & no: 4 spark plug holes. It's directly up on the head, above the block serial number. Let's know what you find. Cheers Banjo