Banjo

That was awesome ! Followed it for the last hour & a half on-line directly from NASA. What a blast ! So glad it all went well. :jamie: :dance: :dance:

Came across this picture of policeman circling car. Think he must be checking the suspension. (or bumper bars) =) :wub: :wub: :y:

Man is that fast, once around the earth every 90 minutes ! Hope there is some real-time coverage on tele tonight ! :y:

Here ! Here ! Finger Crossed ! :y:

Hey Mike, I'm not sure our "boys in blue" would fall for that one out here in Australia. They would defect you anyway, as we now have very strict regs. on diesel powered road vehicles. Love your cheek though ! Diesel here is now dearer than ULP. It used to be the other way around in an attempt to lure people to get into diesel powered cars. It all backfired, so to speak, and now they are trying to discourage it. Love your stories from the great USA. :y:

Another possibilty is the timing chain tick/click. All Toyota K series engines have a timing chain between crankshaft & camshaft that is prone to stretch. This stretch is taken up by a tensioner that is driven by oil pressure. When the oil pressure is very low, like at idle in an engine with a few klms on it, the tensioner does not work very well, & the slop in the chain can cause a tick or click. In the worse case, the chain can have so much "slop" in it that it can touch the timing case. I have never heard of a K series chain breaking, and there are stories that there have been timing covers that have worn through, with the chain slapping against it. Turn the idling back up again,and see if the tick/click goes away. The beauty of the K series is that they can have all the ticks & clicks in the world and sound like a bucket of loose bolts, but they still don't stop or let you down. To prevent timing chain stretch, the rule is that you replace timing chain every time you do a major overhaul on a K series, preferable with a double row chain & sprockets from a 3K which are a straight fit to a 4KC, to my knowledge. A good idea is to replace the auto tensioner at the same time. If the click is not there when you first start the engine from a cold start, when the oil is thicker, but appears after the engine gets up to operating temperature, then it is a good chance it is the chain. If turning up the idling gives a similar result, then it is also likely to be the chain. Don't worry about it. Turn up the music, and enjoy the ride. :y:

. . . . msn ch#9 report tonite. Can you believe this. A billion dollar project, and a multi-million dollar space craft and it doesn't even have a decent tool kit on board. They spend all this money training astronauts, when any RollaClub member worth his salt could have fixed the bloody thing, with what we carry around in the corner of our boots every day. And we would probably fix it gratis just for the opportunity to "drift" in space. *wonders if Andy Thomas ever had a Corolla ?* ;)

* has wicked idea* You know how blokes buy the rear end of utes and weld on a draw bar, & then use it for a trailer. Well . . . . . Take this Neon rear end, add a draw bar, and you've got a great little waggon to put the mother-in-law in when you have to take her out. And . . . . don't fill in the front :y: And . . . . hope it rains ! ;)

Correction ! That was a Neon. Or to be more politically correct. That's half a Neon ! :P :bash: :y:

:P

Hi Greg ! Welcome aboard RollaClub. We all just love new members with digital cameras who can post some pictures for all of us to drool over. Glad you like the forum. If you haven't already, spend a night or two reading the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) There's a wealth of info in there that I'm sure you'll find interesting, gathered over a long time. SEARCH is another great function. If you see something missing, don't be scared to ask or even contribute. We are all here to learn . . . and have a bit of fun. Cheers ! :P

Not quite Fook ! The other way around. The crank spins at twice the speed of the cam & dizzy. Well, it did last time I looked. Therein lies the problem. All electronic crank sensing systems need a second sensing signal from a cam shaft sensor, or dizzy sensor like the Nissans, to tell the ECU whether the crank trigger is suppose to trigger cylinder no: 1 or cylinder no: 4 (in a 4 cylinder engine) TDC no:1 cylinder is the exact same rotational position as TDC no:4 cylinder, except one cylinder is on the end of it's compression stroke & the other is on the end of it's exhaust stroke. The same conditions occur with cylinders nos 2 & 3, except they are another 1/2 turn on, of the crankshaft, usually requiring another sensor. You are right about the flywheel providing greater accuracy, due to it's larger diameter. Without lathes and accurate machining facilities, trying to do this on the crankshaft pulley, leaves a lot to be desired. I know a lot of aftermarket systems use brackets that bolt onto the lower front of the engine, but I want my bits & pieces hidden safely away at the back of the engine. Stay tuned & all will be revealed. But please keep those comments coming ! :P

Teddy is closest to the money ! As the Blackadder said . . . . . "I have a plan so cunning, you could pin a tail on it." :P

My 6 year old is constantly asking when we are going to put the wheels & seat on the "engine stand thingy" ! I think he has visions of screaming around the backyard in/on it ! * evil thoughts enter another RollaCluber's mind ! * :P

Aluminium is nice & soft & easy to work with. Mark hole with scribe or sharp point. Drill series of holes around the inside edge. Join up holes & break out centre biscuit. Take coarse & fine files, and half an hour of patience, & hey presto ! :P

And while Xany has been madly welding this last weekend; what has that other Rolla nut been at . . . . ? Drilling little holes in 5K flywheel & gluing in little cylinderical magnets . . . . . . . . . and cutting little rectangular holes in bellhousings . . . . . . . . and making brackets out of old 3K engine backing plates . . . . . . and making sure all pieces line up ! All will be revealed. Stay tuned ! :P

Welcome Aboard Luke ! You've found the right place. We all love our early Rollas here. Hope you've got, or are getting a digital camera. We love lots & lots of pictures of projects in progress. :P

Looking Good Simon ! :P

A bit of investigation has turned up that we could be onto a conspiracy here guys. There are out there everywhere. BEWARE ! :jamie:

Grim; I didn't know those early Corollas had beds with pillars in them. Those early Corollas were well ahead of the old GMH Swagman ! :jamie:

Fook with all respect, I think you simply need to upgrade your gearbox to something a bit heavier duty ! Here are a couple of suggestions. Sorry Fook ! I couldn't resist, when I came across these today. :jamie: P.S. You might have to move the seat back a bit in the KE35.

Come on ! Don't you know you're Corollas. THATS's the fuel tank. They're always in the rear. Radiator overflows are always up front. :jamie:

Was driving in the Redland Bay area this afternoon, when a bloody ASIO agent had a pot shot at my "red" KE55 coupe. Lucky, I stopped without damage & got a quick shot of the culprit. :jamie: :unsure:

Came across this picture of a very early Corolla on the internet last nite ! The last driver / owner must have been a drifta, cause ther's little or no rubber left on the rims ! :jamie: :unsure: :o P.S. typical Corolla, a fair bit of rust in the arse end !

The Corolla, as with all older Toyota vehicles, has a light switch on the RHS of the column. The light switch stork itself, has two separate switches inside it, which is why the wiring diagrams show the switch as two units (light switch & dimmer) The light switch is the rotational switch on the end of the stork which has three (3) positions. (OFF, PARKING LTS, HEAD LTS) The dimmer switch is activated when moving the whole stork backwards and forwards, and is to change from low beam to hi beam, & visa versa. When the light switch is pulled straight back when the headlights are off, then the hi beam is actived. That's why there are two control wires to the head light relay. One to turn the head lights on, and the one from the dimmer switch to turn the head lights on during the daytime, when headlights are normally off. That's what you use to warn other motorists of bears on the road up ahead. The dimmer switch internally is quite complicated, and the reason the combo switch (as Jamie calls it) fails, is that Toyota have the high head light current passing right back through the column dimmer switch which burns out the contacts, & creates the sort of problems you now have. I fear you will probably have to replace the whole combo switch unit, but my suggestions in the earlier post, will get you home at night in an emergency. :jamie: