Banjo

The Ryco technical paper describing their syphoning vavle, in this thread, is dated May 2007, (nearly 8 years ago) which infers the anti-drain, or non return valve, was present in their products, long before that. However, as Ryco, the company, has it's roots in filters back to the 1936-1940 period, I suppose that is relatively recent. I'd be interested to know whether anyone on Rollaclub, has ever fitted an auxillary external oil pump, to a K series engine, just recirculating sump oil through an external high quality supplementary 2-3 micron oil filter ? This thought occurred to me, when I picked up a 5K recently, and found it had a oil level switch in the sump, which I'd never seen on a K series engine before. Also about to do a full recondition on a 5K engine. I am doing some research, as to whether I should/could use a very high quality synthetic, or semi synthetic oil from day one. Has anyone used a synthetic/semi synthetic oil in a reconditioned K series engine, and what were the results ? Cheers Banjo

I've always used Ryco oil filters on all my Rollas, and never had a problem with "rattely starts". The Z68, like all Ryco filters, actually contains an anti drain-back valve & an anti-syphone valve. You can read all about them, in Ryco's technical paper. http://www.rycofilte...y_mail_out1.pdf Cheers Banjo

Really good point Parrot, If anyone is using an aftermarket oil filter, then they should check that they contain a non return valve to stop it draining, when engine is switched off. There are oil filters out there without non return valves ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Colin, Have just looked at your Starlet build on your facebook link, and am more than impressed by your attention to detail, and deep pockets. You are obviously a perfectionist. I was wondering have you done anything special with the lubrication system, as you obviously have a serious investment in this amazing retro KP61 ? Rob is right regarding the use of smaller filter cartridges to reduce oil pressure delays on cold starts, which I would assume are are common in the UK. There is probably more wear takes place in an engine during a cold start, than takes place for the whole rest of the driving day. That's why taxis, which do constant shift work, where the engine rarely cools down, obtain such long engine lives. The one thing that always concerned me was the first start of a new reconditioned engine. Cold start, empty oil filter, empty oil lubrication galleries. I've always reassembled engines very "wet", and then spun the engine over on the starter motor for a minute or so, with no plugs in, so there is no compression. Then in with the plugs, and hit the starter. I've not gone to a supplementary bypass oil filter system, like they have in aero engines. However, I have Araldited a rare earth magnet into my 4K & 5K sump plugs such that it sticks out a bit into the sump, and have always been amazed at oil change time, as to how much fine metal is attached. I figure what gets caught by the magnet, makes less work for the filter. Cheers Banjo

Sorry Colin, Didn't realise you were in the UK. Ryco is an Australian manufacturing company of long standing. http://www.rycofilters.com.au/company/company-heritage However, the 90915-YZZJ2 filter you were supplied, is a genuine Toyota oil filter, and is listed as suitable for a number of Toyota models, including Corolla, Camry & RAV4. Cheers Banjo

Hi Colin, Good old Ryco Z68 does the whole KE series. It's the larger canister. I've never had an issue with Ryco filters. Commonly available just about anywhere. The 2nd & 3rd column numbers are for air filter & fuel filter respectively. Trust that assists. Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, Tor's suggestion is a good one, of just replacing your cracked head with a 5K one. Here is a picture of a 5K head clearly showing the casting "lumps" under no:1 & no:4 sparkplug holes, to look for. The compression ratio will not be too much different to what you've already got, and after you had the 5K head skimmed, you could always cc it's combustion chambers, and work out the CR. Others on here have cc'd the 4K "D" dished pistons before, & you'll find the cc figures here somewhere. 22cc off memory. Just make sure you swap over the rocker gear from your old head, and use your original pushrods, as you've got adjustable tappets. All you've got to do is find a 5K head. Used on Toyota vans & petrol Toyota forklifts. P.S. Noticed this photo I found, shows a casting number 7, which again ,is another number not listed on our Wiki K series head numbers. Cheers Banjo

Hi Quinn, Agree ! This is a very big project, if you've never taken anything on like this before. This is really the only way to restore a car of that age properly. Full strip & start from the ground up. However, despite the cost involved in the body work & respray, which unless you are qualified, will probably have to be carried out by a professional, you are talking big dollars, as well as having to source the missing items. Unless you have deep pockets, I would find something first up, that is all there, with the very best body you can find. Mechanical bits & pieces are relatively easy to source, & are cheap compared to major body work/rust removal & respray. Replacing mechanical bits a bit at a time, is also something you can probably do yourself, a bit at a time. Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, Don't forget that simply putting another head model head on the 4K-U block may introduce other issues like push rod & rocker height dimensions etc. Does your 4K-U have adjustable tappets. Read on here somewhere once, about someone coming across a 4K-U with hydro lifters, although they might have been a mod. You could always fit an unmodified 4K-C head, then boost the engine. That would certainly give you a sizeable number of extra horses ! Ha Ha ! P.S. Just of interest your 4K-U has engine no: 4K 5952891. My 4K-U has engine no: 4K 5880640 Someone else on here has one with a 4K-U engine number 4K 5982696. Cheers Banjo

Search this site for anything related to 4K-U Head. There's few stories worth reading, and collectively, it might help you as to which way to go. http://www.rollaclub...-4k-comression/ Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, Just checked my 4K-U running engine. It also has a head with casting number 12, the same as yours, so you can be pretty sure the head no: 12 goes with a 4K-U, which like you, I can't find any reference to, but will keep looking. You are lucky, as the 4K-U certainly has a few extra horses, and puts out almost as much power as a 5K, off memory. Do a bit of searching on this forum, as there's a bit about it. Think off memory the 4K-U came from Japanese imported models, as most AMI KE Corollas had the common 4K-C engine fitted. I've always found that it was a far more lively engine than the 4K-C. Trouble is, they are apparently fairly rare, and you might have trouble finding a replacement head in good condition. Your options are to get your existing head welded & skimmed, if it hasn't got too much corrosion. Other alternative is to probably get hold of a "good" 4K-C head and skim 2-3 mm off it. I'd probably be looking for a CR of about 9:1 Suspect solution ! Others on here might like to chip in if they have solved your issue previously, using another K series head. Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, Definitely a 4K-U engine with the dished pistons, in the "D" shape. Now you may well have a problem, as unless you replace your head with one matched/suited to the 4K-U, you could finish up with very high or low compression, as eluded to in my earlier post. Happened to me in my early days with a 4K-U. I actually have a 4K-U in my Corolla at present, so I'll go and have a look now, as to what casting number is on the head. If you can't get a 4K-U replacement head, you may have to get the replacement head skimmed to bring the compression ratio back up, if it's a 4K-C or the like. Maybe a 5K head that has dished pistons would be closer to the compression ratio required ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, First question you should be looking at, is what is the type of 4K engine you are are going to put this replacement head on. There is a 4K-U engine that has dished, or "D" type pistons, which can create real issues of low or high compression, if you don't fit the appropriate head. What is your engine serial number ? Assuming the engine you have, and the cracked head that came off it, are the original "paired" components, what is the "cast" number on your cracked head ? I might be able to help you out with a 4K head, depending on what cast number yours is. Have you pulled the cracked head off yet ? A photo of the block without head, with 2 pistons at TDC could assist. Cheers Banjo

Hi Sam, Ah ! But there are areas of original paint in the boot, & under the back seat that have rarely seen the light of day. Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, The easy way to identify a K Series head is by the casting number. All the info is there in the WiKi on this forum. http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Heads Cheers Banjo

Hi Guys, Need to get some paint to do an original colour respray, for it's 40th birthday this year. The KE30's colour is original. The ID plate on the firewall indicates Colour Code 511. While doing a bit of research on the net, I found there are quite a few yellows in the Toyota range. Suntan Yellow code T1750 Yellow code 511 Yellow code 522 Yellow Firefly code T1746 Greenish Yellow code 521 However, when i check the code 511 on the Unique Cars website, it indicates that the colour with code 511 is more a greenish yellow, quite unlike what I've got. This colour is named Mustard Yellow, for the code 511. Looks more greenish to me. I've never actually known what colour to call my KE30. My wife calls it "baby pooh !" To me it's more a Mustard Yellow, than the bright yellow, like you see on some early Toyotas. My KE30s original colour was a fairly popular one at the time. Can anyone who has been through this exercise before, confirm that the colour of my car above is Mustard Yellow ? Suppose the other way I could do it, is get a sample can of paint with code 511, and paint a patch and see if it matches. Many thanks 1 Cheers Banjo

I picked a 5K engine up in Gympie last week, pulled to bits, that has the oil level sensor/switch built into the sump. I'd never seen, or had one on either of the 2 off 5K engines I've already got. I pulled it off as soon as I got the engine home, as I was intersted to see how it worked. I've got a couple of spare warning light spots on the RHS of my KE30 dash I can hook it up to. Cheers Banjo.

Hi Sam, Do you want to keep the brakes standard or upgrade ? What do you intend to do with the car ? Standard engine, daily drive, bit of sporting fun ? If you want to upgrade there are numerous options detailed on this forum. If you are just after a set of good KE30 calipers, I can help you out there. Have good set that came off my KE30, after recent Celica/Cressida brake upgrade. Cheers Banjo

Hi Brent, That is definitely the fuel pump return line. If you get under the car and trace it back, it will pass along the tailshaft tunnel and then go up through the floor, above the diff to the fuel tank. There are two pipes going through the floor at this point. The larger diameter one is the fuel supply line from tank to fuel pump, & the smaller one the return line. The little plastic canister you are looking at is the one way valve that allows fuel to flow only back to the tank. It will have "TO ENGINE" moulded into it. In my KE30, it is attached to the steering box with a small metal bracket. I believe the ealier KE30 & possibly KE35s were not fitted with the carbon canister attached the battery hold down clamp arrangement, which is why your return line is on the drivers side of the engine, and goes straight to the fuel pump. I have a KE55 coupe, and it definitely has the carbon canister. If you are going to hook it up to a fuel pump with a return spout on it, make sure you check that the one way valve is working properly. Blow through it in both directions, with a piece of plastic or rubber hose attached, into a container of water, and look for bubbles. If the valve is leaking slightly from tank to pump direction, then soak in solvent for a bit to see if that cleans it up. If not, replace it. Cheers Banjo

The clutch cable is a very simple mechanical device, but because it transmits mechanical force in a "U" shape configuration, it is imperative that it contributes little friction, or the binding effect inside the cable can produce an effect similar to what you describe. The original Toyota cables had a Teflon sleeve over the clutch cabe wire. Many after market KE clutch cables do not have the plastic sleeve. Some later KE55s had a bracket off the master cylinder, to hold the cable in place on the bend, to assist with the cable not moving around under force. One of the simplest fixes is to remove the cable from the car altogether. You can then feel if there is any friction on the inside of the cable. If you hold the outer clutch cable sheath in a vice vertically, and work the inner cable up & down by hand, whilst dripping oil down the inside of the cable, until it eventually comes out the bottom, the results can be quite dramatic. All of a sudden the cable will feel very free, and when you put it back in the car, it works just like a new one. Be patient though. It can take 10-15 mins to work the cable, whilst dripping in oil, to get the oil to lubricate the entire inner length of the cable. Same technique can be used on rear brake cables. Cheers Banjo

Hi Ron, Welcome aboard ! Did you only replace the drive friction plate, or did you do the whole clutch bit, and replace pressure plate & throw-out bearing as well ? Did you by any chance have the flywheel face skimmed ? Did you replace the clutch cable ? Some of the aftermarket ones, available on-line, are a little longer that the original Toyota one. Are there any unusal noises associated with the use of the clutch, that weren't there previously ? Give us a bitmore detail, and we'll see if we can help you sort it out. Cheers Banjo

Hi Bryn, I've been using a 5K dizzy with internal ignitor now for several years on a a 4K-U with a high performance ignition coil, I bought on ebay, which has very low impedance. 0.3 ohms I think. I have never had an 'ounce" of trouble from it. Very easy starter. I've always found the 5K dizzy with ignitor extremely reliable. Is the 5K dizzy you have an original Toyota one, or one of the replica aftermarket ones on the net for $ 149.00 ea. ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, I was working in the garage at the weekend on my ride on mower & I kept thinking about this reversed head gasket scenario on a K series engine. I grabbed an old gasket & trimmed about 6mm off the rear end of it, so it wouldn't hit the back of the water pump, if reversed. I was surprised to find it fitted perfectly when reversed, including the locating dowel/pins that I had previous assumed would not be equi-distanced from the centre line of the engine. I am now more convinced than ever, that you did not reverse the head gasket, confirmed by your comment of the sealing beads being visible when you fitted the new head gasket. However, even if someone was to fit the gasket reversed, before the water pump was fitted, it would create two grave problems that could stuff the engine. 1. The oil feed to the rocker gear would be blocked, & there would be no lubrication to the rocker shaft. 2. The water jacket holes at the rear of the block to create good circulation at the rear end of the head would be blocked & number 4 cylinder & head area would get very hot. Let us know what you ultimately find when you remove the head again. Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, I read this post this afternoon and couldn't believe it, because I don't believe you can reverse a head gasket and get it to sit in the right place. I have a 3K block in the garage at present, which is very similar to a 4K, and the old head gasket that came off it, so I trundled out there to see how you managed, what you suggest you did. In your picture of the head gasket, assuming we are looking down on the top of the block, the RHS of your picture is the front. There are no water jacket holes between block & head between the number 1 cylinder (nearest to radiator), and the end of the block. Conversely, the water jacket holes are at the back of the engine to promote better circulation of the coolant, as the water pump is at the front. I found it impossible to reverse the gasket for two specific reasons. 1. The front edge of the head gasket, "reversed", hits the back of the water pump before the cylinder holes line up proper. 2. There are two locating dowels in the block to locate the head gasket & locate the head. They are at the front, pushrod side, & rear pushrod side, of the block (highlighted above). These two holes are not identically spaced, so that if you were even able to reverse the head gasket with the water pump not fitted, the head gasket would not line up properly, because it would not sit on the dowels. Others may disagree, but I don't think you have reversed the head gasket. I personally believe, if you did somehow manage to get the head gasket on in reverse, it would have leaked straight away, not waited for a couple of weeks. However, as there is water coming out of the exhaust, unless there is a break through between water jacket and exhaust port in the head, due to severe corrosion, then the coolant leak into the cylinder will be at the head gasket somewhere. You will almost certainly have to remove the head again, but first off, you should remove the four (4) spark plugs and look at their colour and internal insulator. If there is water only in one or two cylinders, it should be very obvious from the spark plugs, if you have been driving it like this. When you were driving it, was it down on power ? Be interested hearing what you do find, once you remove the head, but frankly, I don't believe you have or could put the head gasket in reverse. When you did put the new head gasket on, was it one with the thermoplastic sealant beads around the cylinders, which looks like someone dribbled something on it. If it was a gasket with sealing beads, the sealing bead always faces upwards from my experience. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jess, This car is not original, but has had a number of things done to it, so it might be worth $ 5,500 to the seller, but it might cost you a lot more than that, if it has anything serious that needs repairing. Remember, you are dealing with a 40 year "olde" car. The pics indicate it looks pretty clean, but often the danger is what is not always visible. I'm talking about rust ! Mechanical parts are relatively cheap & easy to source & install, as you state. However, if it has any serious rust that needs attention, you could be up for big dollars. It's rego is due this month, so it will have to be inspected thoroughly, as you are changing states & plates. Pillarless coupes cannot cope with too much rust, as they rely on the roof for their strength. The back quaters are particularly prone to rust, up near the gutter. Your friend will certainly look for these points, but be very diligent in checking everything out, before paying that sort of money for it. It's exhaust may be too loud for the inspection guy, and you may well be up for a new muffler & piping. Let us know what you think, after you've had a good look at it. As far as running costs, they are very simple & cheap to service, as you can do it all yourself. Air, fuel & petrol filters are always available at your nearest auto shop. They are cheap to run as a "daily drive" and very, very reliable, if they are in good nick. The 23K klms is probably what the motor has done since rebuild in 2012. If the car had only done 22K klms since new, it would be worth all of $ 5,500 & more. Cheers Banjo