Banjo

Recently replaced all the rubber rear spring bushes in my KE30 with SuperPro poly bushes. Installed them using the supplied grease, applying it as per the SuperPro packet directions. The rear end is so squeaky & creaky now, it's driving me nuts. Has anyone else had this issue ? If I can't solve it, I might even go back to new rubber ones. P.S. Actually the original rubber ones were in remarkable condition for a 40 year old car. Cheers Banjo

I, like many on RollaClub, have upgraded my master cylinder to the Pajero one, after upgrading front brakes & caliper upsizing. It is very popular, because it is basically a straight swap. The Pajero MC comes standard, with a low level alarm signal, by way of a small plastic tube that slides in under the MC resevoir. It contains a small N.O. reed relay. The resevoir float has little magnet in the bottom which closes the reed relay, when the level becomes too low. A few members I have talked to, have just not used the alarm switch, as the KEs did not have a low level brake fluid warning light. I found a very simple way to utilise it. All KE30s have a handbrake warning light, which shows the handbrake is on. As this is only on, when the car is stationary, and the hand brake applied, this warning light, can be used to also warn of low brake fluid level. The handbrake light switch simply applies an earth or ground to a red wire with white stripe, which runs from the handbrake along the tunnel under the carpet, and is usually visible coming out under the carpet forward on the gearbox hump, just to the LHS & up of the clutch pedal. By simply running the Pajaro 2 x wires to this point, and splicing one wire to the red/white wire & the other to ground/chassis, the hand brake warning light effectively becomes also a low level brake fluid indicator. To test after wiring up, place car on level area. Chock the wheels. Release handbrake. Turn on ignition switch to "Run". Remove Pajero MC screw lid. Press down float, with clean screw driver, and dash brake light should illuminate. I did notice on my KE30 that there is a spare dash warning light directly below the brake warning light. It has a blanking piece in it. Looking up an old KE30 wiring diagram I have here, indicates it is probably what is described on the wiring as a "brake differential switch". I can only assume this was a switch fitted to some models, where if the front or rear hydraulic circuit failed, it warned you when you applied the brakes. As it is not used on the my KE30, i suppose you could hook the Pajero MC wire up to it, fit a bulb & have a seperate light for the MC fluid level warning. According to the wiring diagram, the differential brake wire was green with white stripe. Cheers Banjo

Wow ! I've never seen wear like that, in what should be a straight pull at the firewall. Might be something to do with LHD, as I would image the cable is much greater in length. Cheers Banjo

Hi Sam, Front suspension upgrade is one of the most important upgrades you will do to the car. By going 15" rims in the front, you give yourself the widest options, as you shouldn't have too much trouble getting larger brake rotors & calipers inside the rims. I did it with 14" rims, and although I got there, it was not without a few compromises, and the narrowest of clearances between rim & calipers. I would suggest you do a lot of homework & planning on this one, as many here have been caught part way through, and have had to back pedal, or change direction. I would suggest you make contact with a local certifying engineer, who will ultimately provide you the required approvals for the "plating" that your KE30 will require, with a big power plant change to 240kW. A good guy, will tell you clearly what you can & can't do. Front end geometry plays a large part in how sucessful the front end mods end up, particularly, if you are going to lower it. I'd suggest sticking with the KE30 cross member, & use other Toyota struts & LCAs, as there are a lot of combos of struts, rotors, hubs, LCAs & calipers that go together without too many engineering requirements. Make sure you check the king pin inclination angle of the strut you go with. Also decide early what camber angle you require, and whether the setup will require top hat camber adjusters. Also get hold of the biggest KE sway bar diametre that you can, which off memory is 23mm dia. Stay away from the cheaper aluminium coil overs. Completely rebush front end in with poly bushes. Don't forget you will have to upgrade the brake master cylinder to get the hydraulic capacities ratios of master cylinder & brake cylinders to provide the right pedal pressures. Mitsubishi Pajero MC or HiLux are popular conversions, that works well, and are a pretty straight forward changeover. There are not too many KE front end mods that haven't been already tried, and that are not documented on RollaClub or other forums. A night or two on the computer, and a lot of reading, should give you a clearer picture as too which way you want to go. Love to see some pictures of your rebuild as it progresses. Cheers Banjo

The Ryco technical paper describing their syphoning vavle, in this thread, is dated May 2007, (nearly 8 years ago) which infers the anti-drain, or non return valve, was present in their products, long before that. However, as Ryco, the company, has it's roots in filters back to the 1936-1940 period, I suppose that is relatively recent. I'd be interested to know whether anyone on Rollaclub, has ever fitted an auxillary external oil pump, to a K series engine, just recirculating sump oil through an external high quality supplementary 2-3 micron oil filter ? This thought occurred to me, when I picked up a 5K recently, and found it had a oil level switch in the sump, which I'd never seen on a K series engine before. Also about to do a full recondition on a 5K engine. I am doing some research, as to whether I should/could use a very high quality synthetic, or semi synthetic oil from day one. Has anyone used a synthetic/semi synthetic oil in a reconditioned K series engine, and what were the results ? Cheers Banjo

I've always used Ryco oil filters on all my Rollas, and never had a problem with "rattely starts". The Z68, like all Ryco filters, actually contains an anti drain-back valve & an anti-syphone valve. You can read all about them, in Ryco's technical paper. http://www.rycofilte...y_mail_out1.pdf Cheers Banjo

Really good point Parrot, If anyone is using an aftermarket oil filter, then they should check that they contain a non return valve to stop it draining, when engine is switched off. There are oil filters out there without non return valves ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Colin, Have just looked at your Starlet build on your facebook link, and am more than impressed by your attention to detail, and deep pockets. You are obviously a perfectionist. I was wondering have you done anything special with the lubrication system, as you obviously have a serious investment in this amazing retro KP61 ? Rob is right regarding the use of smaller filter cartridges to reduce oil pressure delays on cold starts, which I would assume are are common in the UK. There is probably more wear takes place in an engine during a cold start, than takes place for the whole rest of the driving day. That's why taxis, which do constant shift work, where the engine rarely cools down, obtain such long engine lives. The one thing that always concerned me was the first start of a new reconditioned engine. Cold start, empty oil filter, empty oil lubrication galleries. I've always reassembled engines very "wet", and then spun the engine over on the starter motor for a minute or so, with no plugs in, so there is no compression. Then in with the plugs, and hit the starter. I've not gone to a supplementary bypass oil filter system, like they have in aero engines. However, I have Araldited a rare earth magnet into my 4K & 5K sump plugs such that it sticks out a bit into the sump, and have always been amazed at oil change time, as to how much fine metal is attached. I figure what gets caught by the magnet, makes less work for the filter. Cheers Banjo

Sorry Colin, Didn't realise you were in the UK. Ryco is an Australian manufacturing company of long standing. http://www.rycofilters.com.au/company/company-heritage However, the 90915-YZZJ2 filter you were supplied, is a genuine Toyota oil filter, and is listed as suitable for a number of Toyota models, including Corolla, Camry & RAV4. Cheers Banjo

Hi Colin, Good old Ryco Z68 does the whole KE series. It's the larger canister. I've never had an issue with Ryco filters. Commonly available just about anywhere. The 2nd & 3rd column numbers are for air filter & fuel filter respectively. Trust that assists. Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, Tor's suggestion is a good one, of just replacing your cracked head with a 5K one. Here is a picture of a 5K head clearly showing the casting "lumps" under no:1 & no:4 sparkplug holes, to look for. The compression ratio will not be too much different to what you've already got, and after you had the 5K head skimmed, you could always cc it's combustion chambers, and work out the CR. Others on here have cc'd the 4K "D" dished pistons before, & you'll find the cc figures here somewhere. 22cc off memory. Just make sure you swap over the rocker gear from your old head, and use your original pushrods, as you've got adjustable tappets. All you've got to do is find a 5K head. Used on Toyota vans & petrol Toyota forklifts. P.S. Noticed this photo I found, shows a casting number 7, which again ,is another number not listed on our Wiki K series head numbers. Cheers Banjo

Hi Quinn, Agree ! This is a very big project, if you've never taken anything on like this before. This is really the only way to restore a car of that age properly. Full strip & start from the ground up. However, despite the cost involved in the body work & respray, which unless you are qualified, will probably have to be carried out by a professional, you are talking big dollars, as well as having to source the missing items. Unless you have deep pockets, I would find something first up, that is all there, with the very best body you can find. Mechanical bits & pieces are relatively easy to source, & are cheap compared to major body work/rust removal & respray. Replacing mechanical bits a bit at a time, is also something you can probably do yourself, a bit at a time. Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, Don't forget that simply putting another head model head on the 4K-U block may introduce other issues like push rod & rocker height dimensions etc. Does your 4K-U have adjustable tappets. Read on here somewhere once, about someone coming across a 4K-U with hydro lifters, although they might have been a mod. You could always fit an unmodified 4K-C head, then boost the engine. That would certainly give you a sizeable number of extra horses ! Ha Ha ! P.S. Just of interest your 4K-U has engine no: 4K 5952891. My 4K-U has engine no: 4K 5880640 Someone else on here has one with a 4K-U engine number 4K 5982696. Cheers Banjo

Search this site for anything related to 4K-U Head. There's few stories worth reading, and collectively, it might help you as to which way to go. http://www.rollaclub...-4k-comression/ Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, Just checked my 4K-U running engine. It also has a head with casting number 12, the same as yours, so you can be pretty sure the head no: 12 goes with a 4K-U, which like you, I can't find any reference to, but will keep looking. You are lucky, as the 4K-U certainly has a few extra horses, and puts out almost as much power as a 5K, off memory. Do a bit of searching on this forum, as there's a bit about it. Think off memory the 4K-U came from Japanese imported models, as most AMI KE Corollas had the common 4K-C engine fitted. I've always found that it was a far more lively engine than the 4K-C. Trouble is, they are apparently fairly rare, and you might have trouble finding a replacement head in good condition. Your options are to get your existing head welded & skimmed, if it hasn't got too much corrosion. Other alternative is to probably get hold of a "good" 4K-C head and skim 2-3 mm off it. I'd probably be looking for a CR of about 9:1 Suspect solution ! Others on here might like to chip in if they have solved your issue previously, using another K series head. Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, Definitely a 4K-U engine with the dished pistons, in the "D" shape. Now you may well have a problem, as unless you replace your head with one matched/suited to the 4K-U, you could finish up with very high or low compression, as eluded to in my earlier post. Happened to me in my early days with a 4K-U. I actually have a 4K-U in my Corolla at present, so I'll go and have a look now, as to what casting number is on the head. If you can't get a 4K-U replacement head, you may have to get the replacement head skimmed to bring the compression ratio back up, if it's a 4K-C or the like. Maybe a 5K head that has dished pistons would be closer to the compression ratio required ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, First question you should be looking at, is what is the type of 4K engine you are are going to put this replacement head on. There is a 4K-U engine that has dished, or "D" type pistons, which can create real issues of low or high compression, if you don't fit the appropriate head. What is your engine serial number ? Assuming the engine you have, and the cracked head that came off it, are the original "paired" components, what is the "cast" number on your cracked head ? I might be able to help you out with a 4K head, depending on what cast number yours is. Have you pulled the cracked head off yet ? A photo of the block without head, with 2 pistons at TDC could assist. Cheers Banjo

Hi Sam, Ah ! But there are areas of original paint in the boot, & under the back seat that have rarely seen the light of day. Cheers Banjo

Hi Donald, The easy way to identify a K Series head is by the casting number. All the info is there in the WiKi on this forum. http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Heads Cheers Banjo

Hi Guys, Need to get some paint to do an original colour respray, for it's 40th birthday this year. The KE30's colour is original. The ID plate on the firewall indicates Colour Code 511. While doing a bit of research on the net, I found there are quite a few yellows in the Toyota range. Suntan Yellow code T1750 Yellow code 511 Yellow code 522 Yellow Firefly code T1746 Greenish Yellow code 521 However, when i check the code 511 on the Unique Cars website, it indicates that the colour with code 511 is more a greenish yellow, quite unlike what I've got. This colour is named Mustard Yellow, for the code 511. Looks more greenish to me. I've never actually known what colour to call my KE30. My wife calls it "baby pooh !" To me it's more a Mustard Yellow, than the bright yellow, like you see on some early Toyotas. My KE30s original colour was a fairly popular one at the time. Can anyone who has been through this exercise before, confirm that the colour of my car above is Mustard Yellow ? Suppose the other way I could do it, is get a sample can of paint with code 511, and paint a patch and see if it matches. Many thanks 1 Cheers Banjo

I picked a 5K engine up in Gympie last week, pulled to bits, that has the oil level sensor/switch built into the sump. I'd never seen, or had one on either of the 2 off 5K engines I've already got. I pulled it off as soon as I got the engine home, as I was intersted to see how it worked. I've got a couple of spare warning light spots on the RHS of my KE30 dash I can hook it up to. Cheers Banjo.

Hi Sam, Do you want to keep the brakes standard or upgrade ? What do you intend to do with the car ? Standard engine, daily drive, bit of sporting fun ? If you want to upgrade there are numerous options detailed on this forum. If you are just after a set of good KE30 calipers, I can help you out there. Have good set that came off my KE30, after recent Celica/Cressida brake upgrade. Cheers Banjo

Hi Brent, That is definitely the fuel pump return line. If you get under the car and trace it back, it will pass along the tailshaft tunnel and then go up through the floor, above the diff to the fuel tank. There are two pipes going through the floor at this point. The larger diameter one is the fuel supply line from tank to fuel pump, & the smaller one the return line. The little plastic canister you are looking at is the one way valve that allows fuel to flow only back to the tank. It will have "TO ENGINE" moulded into it. In my KE30, it is attached to the steering box with a small metal bracket. I believe the ealier KE30 & possibly KE35s were not fitted with the carbon canister attached the battery hold down clamp arrangement, which is why your return line is on the drivers side of the engine, and goes straight to the fuel pump. I have a KE55 coupe, and it definitely has the carbon canister. If you are going to hook it up to a fuel pump with a return spout on it, make sure you check that the one way valve is working properly. Blow through it in both directions, with a piece of plastic or rubber hose attached, into a container of water, and look for bubbles. If the valve is leaking slightly from tank to pump direction, then soak in solvent for a bit to see if that cleans it up. If not, replace it. Cheers Banjo

The clutch cable is a very simple mechanical device, but because it transmits mechanical force in a "U" shape configuration, it is imperative that it contributes little friction, or the binding effect inside the cable can produce an effect similar to what you describe. The original Toyota cables had a Teflon sleeve over the clutch cabe wire. Many after market KE clutch cables do not have the plastic sleeve. Some later KE55s had a bracket off the master cylinder, to hold the cable in place on the bend, to assist with the cable not moving around under force. One of the simplest fixes is to remove the cable from the car altogether. You can then feel if there is any friction on the inside of the cable. If you hold the outer clutch cable sheath in a vice vertically, and work the inner cable up & down by hand, whilst dripping oil down the inside of the cable, until it eventually comes out the bottom, the results can be quite dramatic. All of a sudden the cable will feel very free, and when you put it back in the car, it works just like a new one. Be patient though. It can take 10-15 mins to work the cable, whilst dripping in oil, to get the oil to lubricate the entire inner length of the cable. Same technique can be used on rear brake cables. Cheers Banjo

Hi Ron, Welcome aboard ! Did you only replace the drive friction plate, or did you do the whole clutch bit, and replace pressure plate & throw-out bearing as well ? Did you by any chance have the flywheel face skimmed ? Did you replace the clutch cable ? Some of the aftermarket ones, available on-line, are a little longer that the original Toyota one. Are there any unusal noises associated with the use of the clutch, that weren't there previously ? Give us a bitmore detail, and we'll see if we can help you sort it out. Cheers Banjo