Banjo

Most guys & gals on this forum have had problems with the fuel gauge at one time or another. If it isn't the little DC voltage regulator on the back of the dash panel PCB burning out, then it is the sensor itself in the tank sticking, or going open circuit. My biggest gripe has always been that the gauge is so non linear. After you fill up, the gauge reads full, but drops rapidly down to about 1/2 full, but has only used about 1/4 of the tanks volume. The last 1/3 of the gauge takes days & days to get to zero. I can always read accurately a point right at the bottom of the gauge, where there is about 5 litres left in the tank, so I then fill up. Two (2) weeks ago, I ran out of petrol one night, as I think the gauge jammed or got stuck, just above zero. This morning, the gauge didn't move at all, for the first 10 minutes of the trip. Then all of a sudden, it started to move up to it's proper position. I think it is sticking. The pivot pins actually wear out. My question is, has anyone adapted the existing sensor, using a resistor wire & wiper off a late model car of either Toyota or any other make, or has anyone experimented with a complete different sensor assembly from anything else, that without too much mods, fits into the KE tank ? I'm planning a long trip in my KE shortly, so want to make sure the gauge reading is reliable & accurate. Any ideas welcome. I'm sure I can come up with a bit of electronics, that will linearize the current senders non linear output, but the mechanics have to be right first up. P.S. Has anyone purchased & tried any of the aftermarket fuel tank senders for the KE30 out of Thailand, on ebay ? Cheers Banjo

Thanks Mate ! Fixed it ! Cheers Banjo

Lots of Rollaclub guys in Melbourne. One of them will post here hopefully, where you might find your needs in Melbourne. First get it all stripped down, do a bit of research & reading on here, so you have a complete list of what you need, so you can get it all in one go. Just be aware that the KPI angle (king pin inclination) on the Toyota struts for Corollas, Coronas, & Celicas, vary from model to model slightly. Someone on Rollaclub or Toymods produced a listing of all the available Toyota struts & their respective KPIs. I'll see if I can find it, & put a link in this thread for you. I know I got caught once, early on, fitting Celica RA65 struts with Cresida brakes to the front end of my KE30. I had to finish up fitting camber top adjusters to get my camber correct again. Don't go overboard with the negative camber, or you'll finish up with poor tyre wear, and attract the boys in blue. For street use, I've found -0.5 to -0.8 deg is sufficient to give good steerability, stability, tyre wear, & better more precise cornering. Best thing you can do when putting it all back together, is get a good set of new shock inserts, to suit whatever struts you finish up with, as Altezzaclub has suggested above. Cheers Banjo

Where are located ? I sense you might not be resident in Australia. Cheers Banjo

Welcome aboard ! Despite you not observing anything visually wrong, there obviously is something very wrong. More than likely a bent axle stub, or strut tube, which on the KE70, was the smallest diameter tube of all the KEs. Like the man suggests, get the jack out, then remove brakes & rotor/hub, until you are looking at just the strut & stub axle. If you don't find the issue during removal, you should see it clearly, once you've got to that stage of bare stub axle & strut. The strut is going to have to come out. I would automatically replace it, rather than repair it, irrespective of how small or large the damage you find is. Come back & tell us what you find. A few pictures would also be great. Cheers Banjo

Good one Dave ! Love it ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, Does the engine run without this issue when cold, but only appears when the engine warms up. If so, that is a good indication of a leaky point on the manifold flange somewhere. Regarding the point for your vacuum advance hose to carby connection. This picture I picked up on the net, shows it very clearly. Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, I looked at your photo of the engine bay & saw the solenoid there, with it's lead running off to the bottom RHS, and assumed it was connected. It should be connected to the ignition switch "On" position. It is designed to cut fuel immediately that the ignition is turned off, to prevent engine over run. It could well be your issue. You seem to have covered everything else. Cheers Banjo

Hi Naim, When you get the wires repaired, don't stop there. Go for the relay conversion, as you mentioned. It will improve the voltage to the headlights, & light output, as long as you take the relay supply power directly from the battery via a fuse. There are a couple of relay conversion wiring diagrams on this forum. I think Altezzaclub has a good one, I've seen. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/33874-lousy-ke7-lights/page__p__375535__hl__+relay%20+conversion#entry375535 Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, I zoomed in on your photo and noticed, what appears to be a plastic fuel tank on the tray, behind the drivers seat, with an in-line hand primer. Is it possible that the pickup point inside the red tank, is not always fully covered with fuel, and it is sucking air occasionally ? It looks like the tank is fairly flat, and the pick up point might be towards the top. Just a thought. Fill the tank right up to the top, & see if the problem disappears. Does the tank have some sort of breather, so it does not create a vacuum in there, which would make the fuel pumps job very hard ? Lets know how you go. Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, Welcome aboard ! What a neat scrub basher. Listening to it, it definitely sounds like too much air, or not enough petrol. Pull out all the plugs. Disconnect the line between fuel pump & carby, and turn the engine over for 15 seconds, & see how much fuel you get out of the pump into a container, & whether it is a constant flow. Cheers Banjo.

Hi Naim, I gather from your Avatar pic & your other posts, that your need for a basic wiring diagram & wire colours, is for a KE70. Altezzaclub has posted just what you wanted back in 2014 in another thread. You should be able to obtain all the info you need at the following link. http://www.rollaclub...ram#entry688373 Trust this assists. Cheers Banjo

I'm sure if you go to your local auto shop, they will have something in a bottle for cleaning hydraulic lifters, but my suggestion, is simply soak in good old lacquer thinners overnight, and then thoroughly rinse with kerosene. Get 8 x glass jam jars. Number them 1 to 8. From front of engine place all dissembled lifter components in each consecitively numbered jar, so that each lifter's components stay together & don't get mixed up. After soaking, clean/scrub with an old toothbrush, & make sure any grooves in the lifter are clean. If the lifter has really heavy varnish, you made need to soak for an additional 24 hours. The little hole in the lifter must be completely clear, as this is what allows the oil feed into the lifter. The video link I provided earlier in this post, stresses how clean everything must be, and the importance of manually filling the lifter with oil. Don't change camshaft bearings yourself. Needs special equipment, and welsh plug at the rear of the engine must be removed. Camshaft bearings also need to be matched to the camshaft journals. Cheers Banjo

In a current RAV4 ad on tele in Australia, you get a fleeting glimpse of a little orange KE20/25 passing the RAV4, or the other way around.. Was just wondering if anyone knows of the owner of the KE ? It looks in extremely well restored condition ? Cheers Banjo

Not sure what you mean, when you describe the lifters as defective & damaged. If they are that bad, then you replace then, or go to solid lifters, and change all your rocker gear. If you just mean that three (3) don't work, then you may be able to resolve the issue by carefully keeping each lifter & it's internal components together & associated with the position it came from. If you then meticulously clean them, and remove any oil stain "varnish" & reassemble & fill with oil, as described in the video link in my earlier response, you may well be able to overcome the problem. If you read the detailed description of how lifters work, then you will appreciate a lot of things all have to be just right for the lifter to work. If you are going to replace the hydraulic lifters with new ones, it will be expensive & should really involve the cam & probably it's bearings also. Could be a very costly operation, all up. That's when the solid lifter conversion looks a lot more attractive. After saying that, I've had two (2) off 5K motors & never had a lifter problem with any of them. Most hydraulic lifters work very well throughout the life of the motor, but on very old motors, with unknown history, and lots of klms, and build up of gunk & oil varnish, it's more than likely that's when hydraulic lifter issues will arise, with age. If you've got the time, & the possibility of having to remove the engine again, if it does not work, I'd just clean meticulously, refill with oil & give it a try. At least, I think you've solve the issue of the source of your noise. It's now just a matter of how you want to solve it. Cheers Banjo

How many klms have you done since the engine rebuild ? The initial wear markings on the new main & conrod slipper bearings look a bit uneven. Have you ever measured the engine oil press with a good guage after the rebuild ?

Have you tried this Nulon product ? http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Engine_Treatments/Lifter-Free_and_Tune-Up

Think you are heading in the right direction. It is looking like it might just be tappet noise, introduced by maybe a faulty hydraulic valve lifter or two. Does your 5K have hydraulic lifters ? There were some 5Ks apparently fitted as standard with adjustable tappets. I ask that, because you mentioned "tuning valve gaps", which can only been carried out on adjustable tappets. Has this engine ever been converted to solid push rod lifters ? If it has hydraulic lifters, it is quite common for 5Ks with lots of klms, to have a noisy tappet, as a result of a hydraulic lifter leaking. This usually happens at start up, but usually disappears after the oil pressure builds up quickly. However, if the noise persists, it is quite often an indictation of a faulty or very worn lifter. Have you removed all the lifters, (one at a time, or number them 1-8) and dissembled cleaned & checked that no internal springs have broken ? If you are going to clean them, here is a good video that will assist. It's not for a 5K, but the technique is the same. Here is link to a good wikipedia description of how hydraulic lifters works. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_tappet The valve lifters are right next to the cylinder in the block, which would line up with your comments about where the noise appeared to be coming from. A "point tip" stethoscope can detect each valve lifter quite easily, as the valve lifter is located very close to the outside of the block, and that area is easily accessible on the 5K, as a result of it's slant installation. Cheers Banjo

It's going to be very frustrating if you put it all back together again, fire it up & the noise is still there. Real need now, is to find out whether the noise is dynamic or static. That means, does the noise only occur as a function of detonation, or is it something mechanical, unrelated to the engine running. I'd put the sump back on, sit the engine in a couple of old tyres, (assuming it is out of the car), put some oils in it, & turn the engine over using a big electric drill connected to the crankshaft pulley. That should be enough revs to create the noise if it is mechanical. Let's know how you go. P.S. Did you use the stethoscope test ? Did that show up anything ? Cheers Banjo

Try it & see. I would image it will be very loud, as a doctors stethoscope is very sensitive. http://toolmonger.co...2/stethoscopes/ Cheers Banjo

I've listened to it 3 or 4 times, with headphones on, and it has that hollow ringing sound, associated with the noise being generated within the sump area. I presume you have checked your oil pressure ? You could possibly narrow the point of generation, a bit more, by using a mechanics stethoscope. If you haven't got access to one of these, then you can always use a piece of hose or tube, with a bolt jammed in sensing end, and the other end in your ear with the second ear blocked. Move it around the engine until you find the area with the loudest output. Whatever the result, it probable means the 5K has got to come out again, but if you can narrow it down, whilst it is running, it should make it easier to find, once the 5K is on the "operating table". You didn't by any chance change the clutch pressure plate ? I once fitted a pressure plate to a 5K, with a high pitched ticking noise whilst running. Proved to be an aftermarket India pressure plate that was a little too big in the frame, which just touched the inside of the bellhousing, at one spot. Luckily, that only required removal of the gearbox. Cheers Banjo

http://www.news.com....261a7c00f959365 Point 12:

I think Stuart might be on the right track. Have a look at this link. http://toyotapartsca...-distributor-5/ Distributor Cap P/N 19100 Rotor P/N 19102 Cheers Banjo

I compared my 5K dizzy with built-in ignitor, with your photos, and it looks very much like yours. Maybe the aspect ratio of your photo threw me off a bit, as the ignitor "looks" fatter in your photo than mine. My 5K dizzy, still has the aluminium ID sticker on the side. It states . . . TOYOTA 19060-13100 100291-1349 5K-C Denso Japan Maybe those numbers will lead you to the correct cap & rotor for yours. My rotor button has no numbers on it at all. I'll go round up the cap later, but I don't think it has any identification numbers either. Cheers Banjo

Does the distributor have little aluminium plate or sticker on it, with Toyota or ND (Nippon Denso) numbers on it ? Your top photo seems to show the remains of a sticker on it, that looks like it has seen better days. I looks a bit like a 5K dizzy, but differs I think. I'll go & grab a 5K one from the shed & compare with your photos. Cheers Banjo