machg

Nice car, different. Almost makes me feel quilty looking for a wrecked one to pinch its diff! Anyway, maybe you could grab a tape measure and help me out? http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=33119 Oh yeah, lower, lower, lower, yep, that's perfect, LOL. Cheers, Mark

Would probably be unregisterable as older engine in newer shell?

Unfortunately Corolla 2's are very rare in OZ. Its fwd, so set-up wise the same principles will apply as AE82 + Corollas. I think the corolla 2 is from the "tercel" family of toyotas, I think Paseos might be the same family, so you might be able to use Paseo parts.

Hey guys, I am looking for another, better diff for my AE71 wagon (leaf-spings). I have done a fair bit of searching, and it looks like an F series from a RT 104 Corona might be the best option. It looks like it will have the right stud pattern (4x114.3) and the right suspension mounts (leaf springs), but I can't find what width it is. Does anyone know?

I reckon an F series from an RT 104 Corona would be the best. Looks like it would be the best fit, as it is the right stud pattern and is leaf sprung, and I think is close enough width wise. Anyone?

Hey guys, I really need a decent diff for "slab". I reckon a Corona RT104 F series would be perfect, anyone got one? Failing that a RN41 Hilux diff, or MX13/23 Mark II diff. Even a early Tarago diff would probably do the job. Let me know what you've got.

? About the leafs ? don't sweat it.

Yeah, I've got a T series, but I want to save that for another car. Apparently RN41 Hilux diffs should bolt in, just need stud pattern re-drilling. Also an early Tarago diff should fit, but wouldn't be as strong (correct stud pattern though) Also MX13 and MX23 diffs will fit with spring mounts welded, but I doubt I'll find one.

Yeah, I'm running leafs. Thanks for responses anyway.

As alluded to in the subtitle, another day another shit fight. Diff is rooted this time. Ridiculously noisy whines, then whines and clunking sounds and pissing oil out of driver's side diff housing. Given the power of this thing (unintetional wheelspin 3rd gear dry, any gear wet) I don't think doing up the borg-warner weldy I've got would be a recipe for long term happiness. Is there a true bolt in option that will handle the grunt? I am thinking hilux, but would like to keep stud pattern if possible. Just want the thing to be driveable, arrrrrrrgh!

Car is running superb ATM, hopefully that's NOT an abberation, LOL

LOL, thanks. Drove car home (50km) and it ran like shit. Pulled injectors (yet again) all good, but spark plugs 2 and 4 looked suspisciously oily. !@#$%^&* Oh well, it came good 3/4 of the way home, so hopefully it was an abberation from sitting inactive for so long. If it ever stops raining I will be able to do more painting.

Well I called Andrew at Statewide Turbos, and he was pretty good to deal with, however he won't balance turbos he hasn't worked on himself (understandable really). He said he'd rather you give him your stuffed turbo and he rebuilds, balances and (I assume) warranties. Minimum charge is usually in the $700 - $800 region, which is probably pretty good given the work involved. His rebuilds are absolutely complete, no re-used internal components except for the turbine and compressor wheels (and main shaft?) if completely undamaged. Unfortunately I don't have that kind of money. He said it might be O.K. if not too far out of balance, and pointed out that by running an intercooler, I have a degree of engine protection should the thing go bang, as any pieces are likely to lodge in the cooler rather than get into the engine. That was good enough for me, so I have re-installed the turbo, and it seems to boost O.K. and no more smoke, yeeeehaaa! Here's a couple of shitty pics of the paint job (only 1 coat)

Easily the best looking AE92 model, should be just about perfect for daily duties. Keep it, tidy it, use it, build something else for the track. IMHO

in that case, why stop at a v6, go v8!

Assuming its not ridiculous $$$, I think I might get the thing balanced, for peace of mind, if nothing else, such a shame no-one in Hobart does this...

Yeah, thanks for that. I am aware of the tolerances involved in turbo design. I suppose I got the turbo for very little $$, and the kit was not a huge outlay either. I have spoken to a bloke who is very well known by all in Tassie, who has worked on turbos for quite a few years, told him the specifics of the turbo, rebuild kit, pull-down procedure and intended application (standard boost) and he felt dynamic balancing was going to be unnecessary. I have to balance his and your advice, my own mechanical experience and weigh up the cost/benefit analysis. I might give statewide turbos a call and find out cost (assuming they actually do dynamic balancing) time frame and feasability of getting the turbo balanced. I suspect the time and cost will be more than I can afford at this point in time. I called statewide turbos and Andrew's away, so I will have to call back on Monday.

Said person does work on turbos, and has experience with Toyota turbos too. In reference to your second post, I might try spooling the turbo up with compressed air myself, before re-installation, just to see if it spools up nice and freely by air pressure alone. Its was really interesting when I first installed the turbo (before exhaust was fitted) the impeller would barely turn at idle, and yet it seemed to spool up fine, is this usual for turbos, Si?

Rego? :D

Its been done many, many times before and the results are usually impressive. You wouldn't be winning any originality contests, LOL.

Yeah, my bikes got a full fairing, but that doesn't help much when your hands are so numb you struggle to apply the front brake or you hit a patch of black ice...

Lucky bastard, my bikes in the shed until it gets a bit warmer/less dangerous (bloody Tasmanian winters)

It depends who you talk to. I have spoken to someone fairly experienced with turbos (I am not going to say who in case the thing lunches itself) and he seems to think that with careful re-assembly the turbo should remain fairly well balanced. I have completed re-assembly with most of the new parts (my turbo had some different components on the compressor side to what was supplied in the kit) and will re-install next weekend. If it lunches itself in short order, you may have the honour of saying the first "I told you so" LOL.

At 20000 rpm no one can hear you scream, LOL. Nice bike. Why replace the fuel pump, it runs carbies right? Don't often hear of carbied bikes fuel pumps dying, some don't even have them (gravity feed from tank to carbs) If its a performance issue, its unlikely to be a fuel pump problem.

Fresh from the US of A, planning to install Sunday. Slab has had her 1st coat of paint, pics later.