machg

LOL, one day, maybe. Driver's side front caliper started dragging badly the other day. Thought it might have been seals, but turned out to be caliper slides. Fixed now, plus new pads. I also had previously overtightened the driver's side wheel bearing, (chasing a wierd noise that I thought was worn bearing) so I backed that off a little bit. Now noise has gone, and car drives and brakes heaps better, awesome.

Apart from the attitude (well it is a heap) taking the car to Pro-automotive was worth the money. New plug leads and it revs out nice and clean. It's quite surprising, after just driving around, boosting at 3-4000 rpm most of the time, the first time I revved it in third, it actually pulled hardest at the top end of the rev range. I wasn't game to go limiter hunting, but it revs to 6000 rpm with ease now, woo hoo

Yeah, I actually have a bit of cash ATM, so "slab" has an appointment @ Pro-automotive on Thursday. Paying a workshop to work on my car, what luxury! Kucy will probably shit himself when he sees it. ROFL

LOL, nah, just use my awesome driving skills and double clutch FTW! Also, got two new tyres, wheel alignment and new GT40R coil...is running a bit better, but still mis-firing hi rpm/throttle. Can hear arcing out at idle, like good spark is getting out of the coil, but is not making it through the dissy and out to the plugs properly. :)

New coil and lead installed. Mis-fire is better, still not 100%, but is improving. The "new" gearbox makes no noises, but the synchros on third are non-existent. Will do for time being.

Lazarus bump. Car now has another gearbox (the other one started making nasty noises) so is finally back on the road. Now if I can just sort out the mis-fire above 4000rpm... :)

mazda rotary

Car clutch? So you are going to use the output shaft from the bike to spin a flywheel which will have a car clutch attached? Gotta see that. Good luck bro, you've got some big cajoles!

Mmmmmmmm, 130 killerwasps :wink:

I would think the bike clutch would be the weakest link, its designed for about 250kg not 850 ish, but I could be wrong

Just to show I am not completely nuts... http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm...id/10519/page1/

I am fairly sure you can buy a simple gearbox that is just fwd and reverse, specially designed for motorcycle engined cars. I admire your enthusiasm, but seriously, for a daily driver, it would give you the shits. No torque down low. Trying to juggle two gearboxes? If you were going to do something like this (and this is even more left field) why not go DIY Hybrid? Think about it, a lightweight but ballsy electric motor and a motorcycle engine. No reverse? No problem, most electric motors can be run in reverse quite simply. Worried about lack of low down torque and motorcycle gearbox life? Electric motors make the most torque at 0 rpm, and having this assistance getting the car moving would radically improve the motocycles gearbox life. Some eletric motors can be made to act as generators, so keeping its batteries charged could be done by using the electric motor to "assist" the hydraulic braking system. Hell, with all the hysteria over hybrid cars ATM, you might even be able to get a governement grant to make it happen, LOL. Actually, that might be a pushing your luck a bit too far.

FI = forced induction? If so, that sounds feasible, but apparently the rod/piston attachment (gudgeon pin) is different on 7AFE's versus *AG*E series engines. I would suggest that if you were going forced induction, custom or aftermarket pistons and rods would be the best option.

7AGE = your 7AFE bottom end with a 4AGE head in a nutshell. It can be done dodgy (not recommended) by simply whacking a 4AGE head on your existing 7AFE and (carefully) fitting a Porsche 944 cambelt (and sorting out something for the exhaust). To be done properly you need to build one with proper pistons (for a good compression ration) and aftermarket EFI. as well as the above. 7AFE's reputadely don't have very strong bottom ends, so either way, I wouldn't be revving it hard on a regular basis. I made a dodgy one by replacing a stuffed 4AGE block with a 7AFE one, using all the same wiring, injectors (4AGE) etc. and it went really well, but I kept to a 6000 rpm rev limit. The above is all using a 4AGE 16 valve head (either bigport or smallport), but you can do the same thing with a 20 valve head, but you use a different cam belt (standard 4AGE, I think)

I recommend a self-tinting welding mask too, sooooo worth the money, flash burns are not nice.

Starlet 4efte engines bolt in, and from what I have heard, aren't a bad engine. They are sloooooowww in standard form.

4ac in Southern Tassie: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=35891

The 'A' in AE71 means A series engine, the same series as 4AG(Z)Es, and the 'K' in KE70 means K series, a completely different engine to the A series, so you have to make major mods to a KE70 to fit A series engines, whereas with an AE71, they literally bolt straight in.

Didn't you read my post on the last page? Turbo is a better option IMHO, I would say many more people have done this than supercharging, afterall, how many supercharged cars are there vs how many turbo ones? (seeing as you are asking for help)

No real news, poor old "slab" has been renamed "Jo" at my daughters insistence and is being used as a daily driver by my wife. Is still going strong, but uses a little oil. A couple of issues that are a minor annoyance; standard exhaust nuts working loose causing exhaust (and boost leak) - have replaced most of then with "conelock" nuts, also the clutch is sticky, when you release the clutch pedal the pressure plate only releases about half way most of the time. Any clues as to why? Could it be because the new diff has a bit longer nose, putting pressure on the driveline? Cheers, Mark Oh yeah, next time you complain about working on rollas, try working on a Hyundai Getz, what a bastard of an engine bay design, cracked the windscreen getting the engine out (the leading edge of the windscreen is unprotected and protrudes past the fire wall, who the hell designed this thing?!)

...oh yeah, if its a bigport, you'll want to remove the T-VIS plate if turboing. 5 minutes on ebay found this... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Coro...QQptZMotorsQ5fC arQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

OK I am not a mechanic so can't be held responsible yada yada. Your 4age should be OK on low boost. Bits you will need: 4age Turbo manifold (Ebay has them), the correct turbo to suit the manifold, exhaust to suit turbo, aftermarket ECU and wiring loom, modified sump for oil return from turbo, special "T" piece for oil feed for turbo from oil pressure sender on block, hoses and fittings for turbo oil and coolant supplies an returns, intercooler and piping (aluminium and silicone pieces Ebay). You will probably need a custom flange or two made up. You can see it's not going to be a cheap exercise. Might be worth trying to buy a complete turbo conversion kit off someone. It might seem like more money up front, but all the bits do add up. See "slab" in members rides to see my experience of DIY turboing.

Lowering is real easy due to torsion beam springs. Needs a WRX engine, LOL

Too small for what? 300hp, yes. A bit of fun with standard boost, no. I'm running 2 1/2 inch straight through on "slab" goes really nice.

Probably not relevant, but my 2TG with turbo and Microtech is getting close to 10 L/100km or 10km/L driving mostly "off-boost"