machg

Yeah, its definitely getting spark. The CSI is definitely firing, and spray pattern looked O.K. The main injectors aren't firing. I did some more checks and found a blown 10A engine fuse that blew recently or I missed first time. Spark timing is roughly correct, but firing at 16 degrees BTDC seems a little extreme to me, so I backed it off a bit. One problem I am having is that my injector wiring is different to the wiring diagrams I have seen. There are only 3 different coloured wires, and I can't find a ballast resistor they are supposed to connect too. My gut feeling is that the injectors aren't receiving their power supply, but as my wiring is different, I am finding hard to find where they should be getting their power supply from. The only vacant plug is the one shown in the first pic on this page, still have no idea what this is for. Oh yeah, checked all the wires going into the ECU and their doesn't seem to be any broken links to the components they are connected too. Fuel pump is not wired correctly, but until I get the engine running, I'd rather have the fuel pump running all the time, at least then I know fuel will be getting to the rail.

I'm officially impressed! The link was "The first car raced in Mark Skaife's racing career (His father's LJ Torana Sports Sedan at Amaroo) and the last car." The first photo was linked to the previous by "Lions" LOL Maccas in Africa:

Thanks mate, Toymods seems to have lots of 2TGEU specific information. I feel like a bit of a goose, but I haven't actually checked spark timing yet. Given that the engine hasn't been apart, I reckon it will be O.K., but still, I'll find #1 TDC and make sure the dissy rotor position is about right...

Thanks Aaron. This arvo I did as you suggested, unhooked one of the injectors and plugged in a 12V bulb to test. Absolutely nothing on cranking, so it looks like the injectors aren't opening. Do 2T injectors work "normally" that is they have power supplied to them all the time, but only open when "earthed" by the ECU? What voltage would they be running, possibly less than 12 volt? I swapped alternators and disconnected the balast resistor. The whole dissy assembly looks quite a lot better than the 3T one and that ran O.K. I mounted the ECU so it is earthed on the trans tunnel. I also bought a can of Aerostart. I actually got it to fire for like 1/2 a second then died. I suspect the problem is two-fold - a lack of injector pulse combined with a weak spark. I might join Toymods and hit them up for ideas too. Cheers, Mark

Man, I hate electrical shit, the bitch just won't start. The issues I definitely know about are stuffed coolant temp sensor and O2 sensor not mounted into exhaust system. Here are some pics showing some potential wiring issues. This plug isn't connected to anything, I have temporarily earthed the 2 black wires in the plug, just in case. The yellow plug belongs to the EFI loom and is plugged into an a/c idle control box. white plug is from carb loom and was plugged in there. All the main ECU plugs in, does the unit itself need to be earthed (i.e. bolted to trans tunnel) to work properly? Open circuit relay was clicking on cranking, seems to be O.K. now, clicks only when trying to crank on flat battery. Very strange, EFI loom doesn't have connection/provision for the voltage regulator, is this correct? Does the EFI (2TGEU) alternator maybe have a voltage regulator built into it? I am running the carb alternator, but can put in the EFI one if required. Tests: EFI pump is running all the time ignition is on, and fuel will piss out of the return line the comes out of the fuel pressure regulator which is mounted on the end of the fuel rail, if the fuel hose is pulled off, so fuel is getting to the injectors. After a fair bit of trial and error and splicing into the loom, I am getting good, strong cranking on a full battery. As above with the trial and error and splicing, I am getting some spark from the coil to the dissy, but an extremely weak spark from the dissy to the plugs. I don't think its plugs or leads as I have tried two sets of leads (one which was running the carb engine O.K.) and plugs look virtually brand new. Have also tried bump starting (towed to 50 km/h and popped clutch in 3rd, engine turned over at 3000rpm, absolutely no signs of life from engine.) Basically I have done everything I can think of in wiring, trialled and errored EFI and carb components, tried to use as much of the EFI loom as possible, checked for blown fuses, etc. and still no go. I really hate electrical shit, I can understand why a lot of guys toss EFI stuff and go carbs, soooooo much easier electrically. I have a mate who is pretty good with electrical stuff, so hopefully he can get it running. Otherwise :jamie: Any suggestions?

7AFE block is taller so exhaust won't bolt up unless you use the 7AFE system up to the cat. 7AFE and 4AFE share the same footprint. I made a 7AGE to replace a broken 4AGE and the 7AFE block bolted up to all the 4AGE stuff. I seem to remember I had to swap a drivers side engine mount.

Stuffed uni joints can do that.

but I doubt anyone but a true die hard fan would get this one...(not the fact they are both Holdens or race cars)

a little challenge, no too hard...

Thousand? ouch

Wiring 90% finished, learning heaps in the process. Mixing and matching wiring looms, :). Won't start, not getting spark, but I'm not beaten yet. Does anyone know any info (or where to get info) on the vacuum hose set-ups for a 2TGEU engine?

Pics, link, info, contact details, anything?

:) just a bit

Mid engine rear wheel drive. No diff problems, no gear box problems. Fabricating IRS is going to be a bitch though...

Update: 2TGEU sitting in engine bay and hooked up to the T50. Wiring 1/2 - 3/4 finished. Changed Thermostat housing top to match T18 radiator pipe. Quick question; EFI fuel lines: the same as Carb lines except for specification of rubber hoses (same clamps?) yes/no? Also the rubber fuel line that goes onto the fuel rail has a Banjo type fitting, which I think hooks up to an EFI specific fuel filter (or is it a purge/charcol canister), can I change this to a "normal" fuel line and run a high pressure in line filter?

I think if you turn the whole differential upside down (not just the centre) it should be O.K., don't all brand new Honda engines run clockwise, not just F20Cs?

Any conversion is possible given enough time and money, oh yeah, you said money was an issue, LOL. Seriously though, get a measuring tape, I reckon you could make/have made up an adapter plate to bolt the engine up to a T50 gearbox, or a custom bellhousing. I don't know if the T50 would like being spun backwards. If the input to the diff is fairly central in its location, I can't see why you couldn't turn the diff upside down (obviously involves removing, relocating and re-welding all the diff mounts) to sort out the engine rotation problem. Then there could be engine packaging restrictions (ala 20V to rwd) and oil surge problems. If you had access to the right tools and shit loads of time, I wouldn't say it was "impossible" but certainly wouldn't be "easy". Oh, yeah didn't Honda change its engines to rotate "normally" a few years ago, (i.e. after B16As, but before 2006) with the hope of selling some of its technology to other engine manufacturers?

Help out a fellow rolla nut: About 12am - 1am this morning (Saturday 6th December '08) my Commodore was stolen from outside of my place in Hobart. In addition, my full Kincrome toolbox was on the back seat!!!!! Please keep a lookout for my shitbox Commodore and tools in southern Tasmania and update me with any details. Maybe on this forum, plus a text message if it's important. A police report has been made. Ph 0438184130 Mark (Jonny Rochester's car)

More hours under the bloody car today. Fitted an AE82 Twincam in tank fuel pump. Seemed to have 2 return lines, so spent 3 hours putting in another return line, on my back in black sand, thanks alot Sorell Council, pack of useless #$%^&*. I was quite proud of myself, the main metal fuel line had been cut, and given that its high pressure needed a good connection with a spread in the line to hold the hose on. Not having the proper tools (as usual) to put a spread in the line, I got a small washer and welded it to the line, then ground it down with the trusty angle grinder, sand papered of the rough edges and voila, secure connection. Hopefully I'll get the 2TGEU in tomorrow. Thanks for feedback guys. Mark

Well took a few days to get the gearbox sorted, drove the car a couple of days and it started misfiring. Pulled plugs and they were really oily. Ummed and aaarred about pulling the engine out (again), then the clutch fork let go. Decision made. 2TGEU T18, here I come!

Depends on how much rust is in it if it is going to be worth the hassle of organising a trailer, tow car, yada, yada. I wouldn't mind having a look at it and take it from there...

Sweeeeet, black paint FTW!

Thanks for that, I have borrowed my Dad's reciprocating saw, so hopefully someone will let me cut a couple of B pillar skins off a T18 shell before it goes to a crusher. Update: - high tech clamping system, ROFL, yellow stuff will hopefully stop the rust, I have had enough rust for a liftime, LOL - quality welding skills, NOT, hopefully will pass scruiteneering... ...mounts are also bolted in via the front hole in the "chassis rail", so I am fairly sure the mounts are secure enough to past most tests. What do you guys reckon?

- AE71 engine X member with mounts removed - T series mounts, notice corner hole to allow precise location - Not a quick or easy job getting to this stage

I quite like the green one, I reckon one with 4wd and a Hayabusa engine would rock... The blue one is a Mira Gino, but the japs have often have different names for their models, ala Holden Commodore - Holden Calais - same car, different names. I used to drive Sirions when I worked for Budget, pretty cheap and nasty, but I quite liked the engine, gutless, but distinctive.