machg

2zz from Celica and Corolla Sportivo, seriously complicated swap though. Why not just turbo the 7afe, wasn't there a factory turbo version?

Wouldn't be surprised if this is the only 2TGEU running factory EFI in Tasmania. Thanks Jonny for gaskets, I've got proper gasket paper, so I am going to make my own, I'll let you know if I strike trouble/need yours Mark

Did as above, will check injectors tomorrow + new gaskets on intake manifold and re-check all vacuum lines, I suspect I could have missed one. Also just read on a 3TGTEU site that a split fuel pressure regulator diaphragm can cause rough idle and engine flooding, which is what I am suspecting. Also I have hard wired the fuel pump to come on when ignition is on, if I run out of ideas again, I'll hook it up as per factory.

O.K. running again now, have modified fuel pump to pickup lower in tank. Nick; airflow meter is working. Would it be worth pulling off the intake plenum, removing the injectors and making sure they are all opening and closing + spraying correctly?

Car won't start, again, maybe no spark, just megasquirt it? Getting really frustrated, again. Sparks will arch from end of spark plug to earth if held a mm or two from rocker cover, but not between centre and outer electrodes. I did run out of fuel today, and by the time I had re-fuelled I had to go back to work, will try again tomorrow.

Thanks Nick, I'll check the flap soon, never occured to me to check that, awesome!

In case I need one: can you guys recommend a good, but not too $$, auto electrician in Hobart? Link: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=22733&st=45

Drove it to a friend's place who's pretty handy with electrical things, hopefully he can find what's wrong with the bitch. If he can't, auto electrician?

Drove it to a friend's place who's pretty handy with electrical things, hopefully he can find what's wrong with the bitch. If he can't, auto electrician?

Hey dude, where'd you get that nice exhaust manifold from? (and $$$) What ECU are you going to use?

O.K. water temp sensor installed, still running like a bitch. Think 13BPP idle. Engine does not like throttle. It goes "best" (still shit) on partial throttle from 3000 - 4000 rpm. Have been playing with "mixture" screw on air flow meter. The only thing that seems to make any difference is by screwing it all the way down, then the engine doesn't run at all. I might go around all the dodgy joins I have made and solder and tape them. At least it is sort of driveable I suppose, what to try next?

Thanks Jonny, will pop into town tomorrow

You may need to be more specific about the actual engine designation if you want more specific answers about what is possible. It MIGHT be possible to use a sigma gearbox with this engine if it is the right model engine. I would be asking more questions on a Mitsubishi forum in this regard.

You have to use a T series bellhousing too. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=4598&st=60 :y:

Rough, light blue KE70 - Park Beach, for sale $450 (not mine). Freshly "bent" purple AE86 under car cover - Carlton.

Getting there: Actually had it running and semi-driveable today. I disconnected the "open circuit" relay and found an STA wire which I had accidentally connected to the positive battery terminal. I am not sure about tuning, I will have to get the coolant temp sensor fixed, then fiddle with the idle speed and mixture (screw on air flow meter) some more. Would the ECU be running "closed loop" mode at idle?

Jonny came down today, and we managed to get the thing running, sort of. Its good to know I haven't stuffed up any of the wiring. We had trouble getting the timing light to flash when hooked up to 2 of the leads, suggesting only 2 cylinders were getting decent spark. :yes: Jonny suggested a new set of plugs, so I put a new set in. Fair dinkum, this project is cursed. Wouldn't run on the new plugs. Turns out one of the new plugs is f@$ked, how unlucky can you get? In summary; have fuel pressure, injectors are now working, compression is 150psi on all 4 cylinders, timing is roughly right and I am getting some spark on all 4 plugs, and still won't run properly. Glad I am not a mechanic for a living, this is really starting to shit me.

I wise man once said "If you find yourself stuck in a hole, stop digging" - with that in mind, I have secured the services of a qualified mechanic to come and have a look at the bitch, and if bales on me again, (LOL) there'll be $50 for another toyota guru to come down and have a look.

Still no go, when hooked up everything as it should need by wiring diagrams, I am getting 12V to both sides of the injector. That is 12V from the supply wires from the ballast resistor and 12V from #10 (injectors 1 & 2) and #20 (injectors 3 & 4). To my understanding, #10 and #20 should be a dead end circuit until they create earth for injector pulses. When I unplug the power supply to the injectors, the reading to #10 and #20 drops to 0 too. @#$%^&*^%

This one: Cheers

Thanks heaps guys for your input, it turns out that plug in the first photo was somewhat essential to the operation of the fuel injection system. It dead-ended the power supply for the injectors and the ignition pulse for the ECU. Once connected, I actually managed to bump start and drive her around the block. Its a long way from being right, but once I have fitted the O2 sensor to the exhaust, sourced a coolant temp sensor for the ECU, and had a really good check for vacuum leaks, I will be on the home straight. Summary of fatal faults: 1) no power supply to ECU - no idea why, all connections look O.K., possibly broken wire, 2) no IG2 signal to ECU - dead-ended in a plug near the ECU and 3) no injector power supply - same as 2. Thanks go to my Dad for lending me his multimeter, you can't fault find properly without one. The coolant temp sensor, can I just go to Supacrap or Rip(off)co and get one? It looks very similar to a bigport 4AGE sensor, can anyone confirm they are indeed the same?

4AFZE - the bottom end may not last too long on boost, its not desgned for it. It's a bit $$$ to do properly, but have you considered a 7AGE? They are torquier (is that a word?) than a 4AGE and use a 7AFE block, so might bolt up to the AE95 gearbox without mods.

Finally made progress, idles on Aerostart. The power supply to the ECU was non existent. Now that the ECUs powered up, #10 and #20 are only putting out 0.4V ignition on and 0.8V when cranking, which I highly doubt is enough to open the injectors. I suspect the ECU is cactus. Also listened to the injectors with a stethoscope, and they definitely aren't opening. Out of desperation I briefly put 12V over #4 injector then the CSI and they definitely opened. Does anyone know what voltage the injectors are supposed to receive? I am thinking of manually supplying #10 and #20 with the correct voltage and then seeing if the ECU will run them. I reckon I have no chance of finding another 2TGEU ECU, so I might see if I can borrow a 4AGE ECU off someone and see if that will get it running. (I'll double check, but I have read that the 2 ECUs are virtually the same)

Your prize: (Fan of your work)

Attempted the usual impossible this arvo, getting the bitch to run, now no spark at all from coil (it is getting power) and CSI not spraying (slams door and walks off in disgust)