G46

installed sidemirrors and door visors.

New wheels 15x8x9 et0 195/50/15 all around

So.. The not charging issue came to an end.. I found out that the fusebox is not receiving 12v as its suppose to. Thus not able to provide suffocient voltage to activate the coil inside the voltage regulator.. I measured voltage from battery post to starter motor = 12.5V Measured from battery post to fusebox = 3V (too much voltage drop) Measured resistance from battery post to alternator B+ = 0.3ohms Measured resistance from battery post to fusebox = 90+ ohms So i traced the thick white wire..removed the insulation tape to see where it taps into..and i found out a heavily oxidized join, so i cut section by section until i see a good bare copper conductor. Gave it a good squirt of contact cleaner Pull a new 8 Gauge cable from battery to the alternator B+ post. And join them back to the fusebox Measured the resistance from battery post to alternator B+ = 0.2 ohms Measured the resistance from battery post to fusebox = 0.3 ohms Since then, i started the engine and it charges right up..measuring 14.5V across battery terminals.. Next is headlights wiring which altezzaclub has posted, and also tackling something funnier which is whenever i press the brakes, it turned on the cluster light..its following the brake light.. By the way. Just to share my ride on new wheels 15x8x9 et0 wrapped on 195/50/15 all around

came out not the brakes is the main culprit, it could be internally shorted alty, I'm gonna source out a used alty from my friend, he got one wagon about to be scrapped, so this is my opportunity to pull out parts from the car. will post updates after this

So back to electrical gremlin..what relay is on the kick panel fuse? Its humming when i turn off the ignition..i was about to test drive the car again after fixing, somehow when i press the brake..car shuts off and leads me to believing the car has the brake wiring issue..could be short to ground, i remember the previous owner mentioned the turn signal lit up if he steps on the brake. I'm gonna isolate the issue one by one and go from there

[B]Name[/B]: Gee [B]Car[/B]:1982 KE70 GL [B]Motor & Driveline[/B]: stock 4k, 5spd stock tranny and diff [B]Suspension & Brakes[/B]: lowered coils, stock brakes. [B]Wheels & Tyres[/B]: currently on 14" but 15x8x9 et20 waiting to be installed wrapped in 195/50/15 [B]Interior[/B]: stock [B]Body[/B]: converted to DX looks, BMW headlights, small triangle rear window cover & rear windshield rain runner, body all bone stock [B]Other[/B]: upgraded the door lock cylinder to different lock and unusual key

chin lips is slightly crooked, nevermind about that, will be repaired. front view with the bmw headlights

Banjo, it was my original regulator, here in my country we call it as cut out, as it disables the starter and stop the alternator from charging. i opened it and found the coil inside for switching was burnt. the new alternator i bought also wont work, as the 3 wire connector is on the back, while the original is on the side. even i extend the wiring, still doesnt work.. so i put back my original alternator, but with new regulator/cut out, it works..however after a while..my regulator failed again, i don't see any trace of burnt inside the regulator/cut out coil, it doesnt charge now..just in case, i bought a new regulator again since its dirt cheap.. as for the headlight, i will try to get it working as the previous owner hacked the wiring, i will figure it out and re-do the wires, because i run dual headlight here, converted to DX from GL with bmw headlights.

thanks mate..next week she should be on her new wheels

I agree, if this car is still holding strong, I'm gonna let my first born to drive it

Thanks, but i like to keep it to stock engine, as chaging the engine to make it road legal is quite a hassle here. next on my list:- -fix the headlight wiring -recharge the AC (is it R12?) -15x8x9 ET0 wheels wrapped in 195/50/15 -full interior cleaning and bacteria killing

car is basically done with bodyworks, next is to get things running better.

gonna keep the car as part of my project car, not really a daily but more into appreciating the old car..i swapped my motorbike for this car, since i have newborn kid, so there will be not much time to ride again, i rather get a car which can bring my wife and kid to go out with..this is the current looks for the car, of course the wheels will be changed. i have a 15x8x9 et0 wheels on standby..managed to fix the not charging issue, also next is to get the headlights working again and A/C to be recharged. i have 1993 BMW 730i, 2012 kia optima and 2012 toyota fortuner..

Huge update, after fiddling around with the help of keith's diagram, i found no tampered wire, but the new alt wont work with my car, and i have oem busted regulator, installing new regulator with the old alt works like a charm..i guess I'm gonna return the new alt, anyway what alternator with integrated regulator will work with the engine without modifying the bracket?

Regulator is different brand from what it had in the car, but i also don't know what brand it had in the car..so i have a look on the wiring diagram, i tried giving a switched source to the regulator, it disables my starter circuit, brake warning lights..therefore unable to crank..if i disabled the switched source, it will still activate the starter and everything works fine except i have no charging