tojo2

I`d try rubbing compound , then wax

Rare in Aussie. don't think you got them new. Its not a 78 though. More like a 81-82

Did you measure cc of head / pistons ?

Yes I know they`re shorter wich is why I wrote "and pushrods for fun" :wink: Never know when you might need some ... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=30148 Guess I don't come across too well in translations

Keep the camchain , camgears , chaintensioner and guide as 3k stuff is probably double row and 4k stuff possably singlerow. Keep the cam and lifters for a regrind and pushrods for fun :) . As mentioned the head. Whatever else you can bolt off and got space to keep.

1 hydro + 1 hydro converted to cable

If you decide to get them cut , get it done at a slight (calculated) angle to line up the diff. Reduces wear on the uni joints.

Shouldnt think so . Turn and check 2 and 3 as well . Check block ...Try with steel ruler and a flashlight behind it for straightness

0.3 mm protrution will give you about 1.55 cc smaler combustion chamber that your engine builder might not have known about. This could affect your ratio by 0.4 - 0.5. Realy think you should measure cc of pistons and head and do some proper calculations. Mine are just rough since I don't know your specs don't think your piston will hit the head though. What you`ll need : + a dash of fluids. I prefere lampoil as its kerosine without the smell :S

Would think 55 angles are the same as ke35 but not certain http://www.club-k.co.nz/Forums/viewthread.php?tid=12426

Not saying there is nessesarily anything wrong with pistons protruding but it will affect compression ratio. I`d use a straight edge across the piston as mentioned and then a feeler gauge between edge and block just to see by how much and do a bit of calculating.

Compressed gasket is about 1.3mm thick but in this pic pistons seem to be taller than the block or is it just an illution..

7K and 5K hydrolic lifter vertion cams are identical

As long as cylinder bore is less than 82mm a regular 5k one should be ok

4age pistons are 5.something mm lower than K pistons so that block must have seen some serious decking unless you got some special rods. Thats probably what is causing the rocker issues. You might know about it but havent seen it mentioned in the thread. Are the bores of the gasket larger than the cylinder bores? Id change the gasket for a original one just for piece of mind

Saw somewhere that you had forged internals in it ? Not cheap. Wouldnt run it, I would pull it apart and see what is saveable Forged pistons probably cost more than you would pay for a complete stock 7K

mine were 19mm , same as for the ke35

Question was if they were the same size, and the answer is no :( Since you guys are using U centers with B housings and axels , axelsplines must be the same size. X centers also fit in the housing but they use thinner axels. Cameron: Nice find on those lsd centers. I'm also in the process of putting a lsd into my ke17 but I'm using a trd B series unit.

No, the kp61 has 6" U-series same as ke3# and late ke2#s while the ke1# has 5.7" B series , same as the early ke2#s Kp 60 and 62 have 5.6" X-series diff centers.

edis Hehe.. good thing its in Finnish then. There`s a english flag on the left side. Click it and it makes more sense.

and then there`s the expensive way.. http://www.esapeltonen.fi/

Good cars. drove one in the early 90s. A bit thirsty but as long as you change oil every now and then and the milage is less than a million Ks , you should be good to go. Those wheels came standard on the turbos :S

x 2 Have found a few bosch plugs to be :S when new

In a ke35

One fan http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1982_TOYO...DCDSW_1603.html http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1982_TOYO...DCDSW_8401.html