tojo2

Sounds good. No rush Cheers

On initial search on partsnumber it showed upp as a auto ecu so I assumed they were different. Your comment make me check ECU numbers for auto and manual and yes, they are the same. Thanks for clearing that upp. Deleted the auto comment in first post. So I'm after a pinout / drawing or manual of any 7KE ecu

Anyone got a pinout /el.drawing of a 7KE ECU ? Was hoping for a bit more than whats in the FAQ Cheers

Fam - farm.. guessing family car http://www.tiresizecalculator.info/ Its not an uncommon dimention so maybe look for a different tyre shop

Should be regular McPherson struts on those and leaf rear springs. 3S engines sort of fits the bellgousing.. Manuals have W5(1?)gearboxes. S-seies rear end

Australian Motor Industries http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australian_Motor_Industries

closer to 200cc extra.. Your k50 gearbox will only fit a K engine as the bellhousing is cast onto the gearbox body. T50s come with bolt-on bellhousings , type depending on what engine series they are to be used on and age. (K to T, T to T, A to T, Ag to T and so on) Lots more info to be found in faq . Oh, and yes T50s are stronger than K50s and very different

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/010barup.pdf

center fits if theyre jap diffs, ke17 is narrower

Looks like Ove Andersson was the driver http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ove_Andersson

SSRs .. all black maybe

8D Mean build . Thats a lot of boring, did you resleeve cylinders ?

Ask a Mangels Wheels dealer. They used to make them

Got the same on my ke35 You could try swapping sides of the leaves .. didnt make a difference on mine tho I renewed all shocks - front springs and swapped sides of the leaves, no difference.

If I see several brands of the tool I need while working , I`ll instinctly (is that a word?) reach for Hazet

Nice wheels - looks period, are they? Didnt like the logo on the centercaps they came with but see you found a better solution :cool:

Id put in the thick frontbar (+new bushes) then try with and without the rear.. shouldnt take long I prefere the rear to be a fair bit softer than front on loose surfaces like snow & gravel Is your diff open ?

Plug has a built in magnet designed to collect metal from the oil. If you only found a little bit of metal dust on the plug it wont be too bad. If theres play in the unis you could start by renewing those. 2cm play was found where?

Check driveshaft unis for slack /play. Renew if any is found Drain diff oil and look for traces of metal in oil. If found , start looking for a replacement B or U code diffhead. Wash housing and axels , renew axel seals and check wheelbearings before putting new head in.Check brakes for wear and contamination when its apart If in doubt about mounting the parts back together , get someone quailfied to have a look Just a suggestion.. :cool:

nah, just looks like youre missing the clevis http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1976_TOYOTA_COROLLA_KE35L-KSB_3102.html - the smal piece that goes between cable and clutchfork. Use the one currently on your car. To remove cable from fork, youll need to remove the E-clip on the cable by the firewall to get it slack

+ 1 cable :rolls:

Enough gearoil in box? Any difference if car is hot or cold / been driven a few kms

like a tidy pinstripe but Id leave the rubber off- either / or. Both are too much imo don't like black under doors , seen too many poor rust repairs done that way

w55-8. do you know what car it was out of ? Someone might recognice what the bellhousing suits if you post a pic of the front face

I found a new dual system brake master from a ke18 on ebay US. Hoping it will fit on my ke17 for a upgrade. Bias is probably wrong as I think its for drum front and rear tho