ke70dave

Reality is I don't know, and i doubt anyone on here does know. you'll need to do your own investigation. The answer i suspect is "probably" followed by "we can do anything but you have to pay". Assuming you have the gears and they "bolt in" a gearbox is going to charge you qutie a few hrs to pull it appart and re-assemble (at ~$150/hr) and then the question is do you want to do synchros and bearings at the same time. a gearbox shop will be able to tell you if you can or not. here are my guesstimates - you supply the gears and they "fit" - gearbox is going to charge around $700 to pull appart and re-assemble -you supply of the gears and they need to be modified to fit - $1000 -custom made or new gears to fit - $1500-2000 including fitting -an additional $1k to replace the synchros and bearings at the same time. Playing with gearboxes is expensive. edit: First google search of your issue gave me this link: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/12955-W57-vs-W58 id be looking at the info in there.

Twincam.org Damn i had forgotten about that one.

You are only 6 months ahead of me hiro. And my starting point marks when i was sick of ae86dc....about a year after i bought the ke70 :|

I clicked on page 1 of this thread. I wonder whatever happened to "t18drifts" (the original OP) He was certainly an interesting fellow on the forums. ah the hay day of forums were good.

Excelling news mr Coln72. Thats a milestone!

The car yes, the garage....not so much. great work though:D

This is why in our house I have my PC and my laptop, and the wife has her laptop. My laptop is old, and "its too heavy to have on lap" - problem solved:)

Dont forget the dude is in Norway. Dunno what cars they even got there.

That bonnet scoop turned out great. Looks awesome on that Instagram photo. Good luck with the rwc!

oooooohh look at all this exciting progress. That engine is really going to wake up the mighty corolla. Wheels look great too.

ohh its open at the back? i thought it was just a bump. yer best to minimise that length....

Ah yer i see. It would be quite wide by the back with my sketch. looks pretty good to me!

I saw that other photo you put on Instagram too. looks interesting...My first thought was perhaps the sides of the "bump" should be parallel with the ridges in the bonnet? either way i think ocne its all painted up it will look good either way. Quick sketch of my thoughts.

so you still thinking an vented bonnet but made of steel? Thinking out aloud i wonder how a bonnet bulge would look. not open at all. A bit similar to how they do it on the V8 falcons. where it just looks like a standard bonnet but it bulges up in the middle to give more clearance. or even an offset bulge where you need it just to confuse everyone.

"injure bystanders" I cant say i've heard that one before. I was reading the ADR the other day about it. https://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/-/media/Safety/Vehicle-standards-and-modifications/Vehicle-modifications/Light-vehicle-modifications/NCOP/7sectionlhbody.pdf?la=en ---- 2.7.2 Testing of Fibreglass Structural Components All fibreglass used in structural components must comply with and be tested in accordance with the requirements of British Standard 2782 Part III, methods 320E and 335A. The test panels must reach minimum acceptance levels of 85 MPa in tension and 152 MPa in flexure. The Barcol hardness value must be greater than 25 and the fibre to weight ratio must be at least 0.29. Fibreglass panels presented for testing should be laid up under supervision in order to verify the consistency of lay up when referenced to the vehicle components being constructed. These Section LH Body and Chassis Version 2.0 - 1 January 2011 Page 10/LH73 test panels should measure approximately 600mm x 600mm and be free of gel coat. Flat (planar) test panels are required to comply with test procedures. Testing must be carried out by a NATA certified testing laboratory. Where the modifier has quality management processes accredited to ISO AS/NZS 9000, testing of the components need only be done once to prove the general design. --- What is interesting is that they are calling for a "barcol hardness" value that is really quite high (and what you would expect with cured fibreglass). I would have thought if they didnt want the panel to "shatter into a million pieces" you would want a lower hardness value. I dunno how you measure "flexure" on a thin panel. I went to tingalpa a few weeks back. same old place. I think it is one of the last walk around ones left. But anything older than about 1999 is pretty rare. got rid of all the old stuff a few years ago.

They love those bloody H patterns on the gearknob. "Oh so you've modified basically everything on the car yourself cool cool, all new brakes suspension, no worries sounds good and safe, WOAH WOAH WHERES THE H PATTERN STICKER! DEFECT!" Of all the things to pick on. Oh well, easy to fix.

Woohoo! Good to hear mate.

Throttle body injection eh. Similar vintage suzuki swift/holden barina have the same thing onna 1.3L g13a.

well done! looks the business.

Basically everything from the ke70 goes in the tip and you replace the entire front with ae86 gear. Struts, brakes, hubs etc. You then have the option of jdm ae86 brakes which arent all that exciting but are vented and do pull the ke70 up well when reconditioned. Its a royal pain in the ass due to the rarity of ae86 parts which is why little red suggests ra40. Basically the same as 86 but should be easier to find. These days though potentially just as hard. If you have a look at my build thread (google "ke70daves ke70". I have some info in there if what i did (like 10yrs ago:|) . But its a pretty standard ae86 custom coilover install. I too went with the sw20 style shocks. Good length.

Ah that sucks, few days in the future now but i hope there has been some good news for you. Sucks this time of year, but sucks in general! As others have suggested, and it seems you are all over it. Make sure you make use of the social worker at the hospital. My wifes mother works as a social worker at one of the hospitals in Brisbane. parking vouchers and what not are given out all the time.

you can successfully weld cast but you have to do it correctly. I cant remember the details but there are special welding rods for it and there is a pre and/or post heating technique to relieve the stresses in the material. If you don't do it properly it will crack again almost immediately:)

Is it a steel or cast manifold? If its steel someone could weld it up. But even if its cast a skilled welder could weld it up for you. But make sure they know how to weld cast. Pre heat and post heat etc.

Hmmmm.

Looks pretty acceptable to me.