ke70dave

Also remember correctly adjusted points are supposed to last for ages, as long as spark plugs, if not longer. 20,000kms etc. They are not supposed to be temperamental or constantly need fiddling with. In the 4years i had my 4kc I think i replaced the points once, I checked the adjustment a few times but they were never very far out of spec. I was even too poor back then so I cleaned up the contacts on a set of points i had and put them back in.....

I sense something fundamentally wrong with your arrangement, and i've no idea what else we can type to help you figure it out...

Pretty much impossible on the standard differential without custom made things. Most people ugprade the differential with something that can take an LSD that also has disc brakes. T18 or ae86 diff is a very popular swap and is well documented. however i don't believe a tail shaft exists that will work with the 4k motor, assuming you still have a 4k motor.

Or perhaps a "hybrid" system, where you use a hydraulic rack and an electric hydraulic power steering pump from say an MR2. i think those MR2 pumps need a speed sensor to make the speed sensitive control work.

Points gap has a huge effect on ignitiin timing. If you ever touch the points the ignition timung should be checked. Big question is why did the points gap "shrink considerably"? Long term i think you should convert to electronic distributor. By long term i mean right now.

Damn that was quick. Onwards and upwards!

Congrats mate!

That long sitting around i would think the bores would be rusty as, and then the rings in a similar state....

Ok well third day of driving to work, done about 100km with that seat in. Amazing what a new seat does! car actually feels a bit slower than before cause i dont have to hold onto the hand brake or lean against the door when going around corners:P Back of the seat does need to come up a tad, ill modify on the weekend and hopefully get the other seat in too.

Being in the northern hemisphere i thought you were going to say the Speedo and odometer was running backwards.

Right more updates! FD3S drivers seat is in! Took me ages to work out the best way to do it, but in the end the easiest was to grind off the oem mounting tabs and basically fabricate a whole new mounting rail, and essentially designing on the fly..... Photos are fairly self explanatory. Ive no idea why some of the photos have alot of white dots...something up with camera phone i think. Drove it to work today, its rock solid that is for sure. Initial impressions are good, quite comfortably. My only complaint is that i feel like my legs are a bit high compared to butt. Unfortunately i cant really drop the front of the seat down that easily, i might see what happens if i put some spacers under the rear mounting backets. ill drive it this week and see how it goes. All going well though ill get the passenger seat done next weekend. should be a bit faster as i know what im doing now.... ei

Woot! Almost there, 1 week! All the best.

Sounds like some good projects in the works. Hows the wife? Must be close to giving birth?

That torago wheel does look good, nice score. Does the indicator cancel work? I'm not sure how much blasting a 3k is gonna do, but will at least look shiny on your car:D

yeah I would be focusing on getting a programmable ecu going.You can do it with junkyard parts and an electronic distributor. You can then put a wideband 02 sensor in your exhaust, use the ECU to data log. Carbies are cool, but their day is gone i think. Decent ecus can be more than 10yrs old now you can find some bargains if you hold out. Though you do need a 4ke inlet manifold.....and a high pressure fuel system... https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/griffin/other-parts-accessories/haltech-ellv2/1149995102 Very good ecu for 500bucks. Then of course there is the whole fabrication issue of your supercharger mounting and piping, lots of ways to skin a cat.

The glory days of racing eh. When you could buy the car you were watching. I sent an email to Zender yesterday, http://www.zendergroup.com/ I basically sent them a few photos and wondered if they had any details on them, production numbers etc. i got a pretty quick response, but its very corporate...and not very helpful, But a response never the less! ------- Hello David, thank you for your request. Unfortunately, we can not help you because Zender GmbH has not existed for several years and we have not taken over the portfolio. We only have a contact partner, if it is a question about a general operating license, but unfortunately not for further information or purchase any components. I am sorry to tell you about this and I hope you enjoy your wheels nevertheless. Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Kind regards Daniela Weßling Planning / Logistics ------

Real ones basically impossible, copies are around. but they suit the series 2 e30, plastic bumpers. I'm not even sure how the rears attach, might be a full moulded on thing. I think they look a bit too much...Basically like a budget m3.

5mins with a scrubbing brush and some wet and dry..

Not a whole lot of progress on those FD seats, last night i pulled out my oem seats and took some measurements. Looks like i can use the OEM rail and just weld some 20x20 shs and some pieces of flat bar to make some mounting tabs. Maybe tackle this weekend. Beauty of the e30 is that the mounting holes in the body are completely flat, the floor plan is quite flat where the seats are. so easy to DIY. But looky what else i bought! These are what are called "zender" wheels. Made by speedline for the zender. Zender is like a do-up brand for bmw, made lips and sideskirts and things back in teh day. i think they still make things for other german car brands. Back in the day Zender produced some overfenders for the e30, and these wheels were purchasable to use with the overfenders....I didnt completley realise this when i boguht them, explains my below fitment issues... I'll be honest i bought them cause of how awesome they look, and how rare they are, and they were 500bucks for the set.... I don't believe there are too many sets in the world, who is to know really, but usually they come up in the 15x7 or 15x6 options. but the 15x8 appears to be reasonably rare. They are a proper 3 piece wheel, specs are 15x8 zero offset. build year of 1987. So 30yrs old this year, and the same age as me:) They do need a clean up, but structurally they are in great shape, one has a slight ding in one of the barrels, wont cost me much to straighten that out. the tyres in the photo with the car are 205 55 R15, which is a little stretched for my liking. idealy id like to put 225 45 r15 hankook RS3 on them. They are $149 each. which technically is only another 10mm of clearance either side i suppose. In the photo of all 4 wheels, the closer wheels have 195 60 r15s, they are quite stretched. I suspect the guy before me had the 195s on the front and the 205s on the rear. Still not completely decided if i will use them. At the moment, the rears do actually fit reasonably well with this tyre size (205 555). we put them on the rear and my mate and i both jumped up and down in the boot to the bump stops, the tyre just touched the completely stock guard, i should be able to roll up the inside lip and get an additional ~15mm clearance. so the 225 45 r15 tyres may fit with an aggressive rear roll on the rear , but it will be close. The fronts though.....yeah they stick out considerably. The rear has -2deg OEM camber, but the fronts are only -0.5 i think, or maybe even zero camber. I also think that the track is slightly bigger at the front. So my options are: -Replace the outer barrels on the fronts (or all four, or just the front two) for one inch thinner, which will make them 15x7+13mm. I have rung a few shops and they reckon they might be able to help me out - price unconfirmed. Possible to buy some second hand barrels, as most people remove this size barrel and put on bigger ones. -Build some front coilovers with camber adjustment and see how close the 8" goes with say -2.5 camber. Regardless of wheels the front does need more camber (and new suspension...), especially if i put the RS-3 tyres on the front and start doing some harder driving- will still need an aggressive front roll to make them work either way. -Polish them, put in garage on display. I think the coil over front option is the best, as i need to rehash the suspension anyway, Just might delay wheel installation for some time..... These three are close ups of the front wheel/tyre.

oh man this goes back a few years, yeah I wonder if its still hooning about. OP last visit is march 20, so maybe....

ignition timing? 15 after? how on earth did it run? was the exhaust manifold glowing red?

I had a few iterations of fuel system in my ke70 4age, - I ran a bosch external pump bolted next to the fuel tank at first, it worked fine, but the pump was noisy as - bosch external pumps do not like sucking fuel -2nd iteration was a 500ml surge tank bolted next to the bosch pump using an external "rattler" fuel pump as the lift pump. Here is a DIY i did...bloody 8yrs ago:| http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/8255-UNDERCAR-surge-tank-KE70 3rd iteration was when the rattler pump died. I put an internal lift pump in from a commodore i think, this was the best setup. only 1 pump outside, and the fuel system was silent all the time. Some photos of it in here, http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/6459-ke70daves-ke70!/page5 In terms of actual fuel starvation from only using the external pump in the first iteration, I don't believe i ever experienced anyway but i never tracked it. I advocate for the 3rd iteration because of the silence, the bosch external pumps really do not like sucking fuel, so the lift pump supplies a positive pressure at the pump and it keeps it happy. You can pickup a bosch internal pump for like 40bucks, the external pumps are a bit exy as they are high pressure, but bargains can be had. a surge tank was like 80, and then make sure you get the proper t-bar type hose clamps for fuel systems. Obviously the ae86 jdm tank is the go if you can find one, but they are few and far between. they come up every now and then though.

I had thought simliar back in the day when all these mini turbo engines started to appear, i think there is potential, be a torquy little motor for a small corolla. The turbo combined into the manifold is not a deal breaker to get started, but it does make it harder to put a different turbo on. A custom turbo manifold is not out of the realms of someone who might be tackling this conversion though, certainly not the simplest conversion.

Hello, welcome to rollaclub. I think its a good idea. How much experience do you have in engine conversions? And do you have $10k to put into the car?

Just run it on 2 stroke fuel :)