ke70dave

ive got s13 gear in my ke70 handles great if you ask me you need to get base adjustable coilovers cause s13's generally use a shorter strut than kes, so you need as much adjustment as you can get you only need a bigger master if you are using sr20 brakes, i have CA18 brakes and stocko (brand new though) masteryclinder. you gota push the pedal a bit harder, but i think it makes it feel better anyway. there are only 2 diffferent sized s13 brakes, SR and CA. CA are PLENTY for these small cars, SR is a bit of an overkill. best off getting the proper camber tops for your car, cuase its hard to cover up the holes if you redrill the strut tower. having said that i redrilled mine to s13, regret it every day, but you get that. dunno about the older ke's (30, 55 whatever) but for ke70 its almost a bolt in afair. you need to drill a 14mm hole in your crossmember, as your stocko one is 12mm, and nissan bolt is 14m. if you can't get a s13 LCA bolt, go get one off an R31, all the same. standard s13 LCA's will give you about +30mm track either side. crap if you want to run psycho offset wheels, but if your like me and have normal sized wheels (mine are 15x7 +23) they will sit perfectly flush with your untouched guards with about -2 degrees of camber. i hear that R31 LCA's are about 30mm shorter than s13 ones and are a direct replacement, i will be looking into this in the future. how does the LCA length compare in a ke70 to a ke30? you might have to go straight to R31 ones if s13 ones are gonna be too long. thats about it really, bolt it in get a wheel alignment and drive away happily!

vdo is a winner excuse the dust....but this is my setup...most people think its stock!! i want to get a oil pressure guage, and put it where the old temp guage is, not sure on the feasability of that yet... quite easy to do, just hack away at the back of the dash cluster with a pair of side cutters

hey mate I'm sorry to steal the thunder of the thread starter... but is the commondore diff the same as the R31 diff? (i assume you talking about the VL which by my understanding is based on an R31) cause ive got a mate whos looking for a aftermarket LSD for his R31 but hasnt had much luck. and we all know the stocko r31 lsds arent that crash hot could you possibly give me (and the thread starter as I'm sure he'll be keen too) some info on said "kaaz lsd" and how/can you get one for the R31 diff ive had a search around kaaz website but can't find anything about R31, heaps of other nissans though.

a vacuum leak is just a place where air can get into the system where is not supposed to be. on carbys yeah it can be one of the matrix of pipes, or more major like a blown intake manifold gasket or in my case loose components coming appart. I'm pretty sure the reason that its bad for the engine is that the air hasnt had the appropriate amount of fuel mixed with it and thus creates a uber lean mixture and thus runs poorly or in the case of an efi system it stuffs up the map/afm sensing and does the same thing. your best bet is just to go around with a few spanners and make sure everything is tight, then fire up the engine and get it to idle. then start spraying some sort of flamable spray (wd40, rp7) and this flamable gas will make its way through any vacuum leaks (if they exist) you have and you will hear an audible change in revs of the engine.

ill second that my carby was all loose a while ago and the accelerator cable was pulling the carby appart from the manifold and causing a HUGE vacume leak it would idle fine cuase there was no force pulling it away. and it was fine when accelerating slowly, but if you did any thing quick with your right foot it would surge and splutter. after you make sure everything is tight id do a quick tune up, reset the timing and plug gaps/points dizzy, spray some carby cleaner down the throat of carby. should run pretty good after all that.

yeah its a bad idea but mines been bolted to the side of my box for about 3yrs, still goes strong!

your best bet, is to get the head straight off and take it down to a machinist and let them test it out and make sure its all good. last time i had to change a 4k headgasket, the head was warped something crazy,but the machinist had a head they had just reconditioned on the shelf. theres a good chance that if they don't have, they will get one from a wreckers for you. actually taking off the head is quite easy, just undo all the bolts...the joys of pushrods. putting it on is a bit more fun with setting up the valve clearances. if your not exactly sure what your doin, go get a workshop manual for like 30$ will tell ya exactly what to do, step by step. good luck with it :)

cheers mate hahaha no carbon bonnet here! wouldn't mind a FRP one i guess, but legel legal's aren't really a fan of them... and no black either! keeping it blluuueeee bit of extra news for you all. i started up that 4age where it is sitting. managed to get it running on just injectors and dizzy, no MAP/TPS or any sensors at all needless it say it didnt run very well, but i got a few revs out of it! compression results jumped from 140 90 95 100 to 160 170 165 170, so I'm pretty happy that. few extra things to get, and its 4age fun time :laff:

yeah front is easy as... Rear...thats another story heres how i did it just hacked up a stocko bumper (the metal part) and then drilled a few holes the main problem is that the metal one will make the bumper too low think? so you gota weld the brackets a bit lower to get the required height been a while since i did it, but its not to bad, just get happy with your angle grinder and welder. theres some more pics in my thread here http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=14411 hope this helps :lol:

sounds to me like you need to get yourself an engine manual! can get one from supercheap/repco for like 30$, explains everything with nice pretty pictures. ive never heard of a timing chain fail, my mums old corona had a rattly chain, and it would never tension tight enough (18Rc, apparently its an inherit thing?). but the timing chain on a 4k is heaps shorter and shouldn't have any problems. rattly in my 4k means i need to have a crack at adjusting the tappets again. in short you gota get each piston up to TDC by watching the valves "rock" (ie when exhaust is closing, and inlet is opening) the one of the OTHER cylinders will have "loose" valves (you will hear clearance if you pull valves up and down) and this is when you adjust these ones to the specific tolerances. its a bit annoying and tedious, as i generally miss the TDC at least once, and have to spin the engine all the way round again:P but you get the hang of it! just keep track of the ones you have adjusted, and DONOT undo anything unless you are sure its the proper time to adjust, or you could have all sorts of dramas....mmm backfire up the carby....

yeah just go and order it man...its nothing special... just for interests sake they are exact same as an ae86, the indicator return things work with them too. i got an uber long boss kit from some importer for an ae86, bolted it up perfect. uber long one is great for driving, brings the wheel that big closer. indicators are only just in reach though....

ahh well its been almost one year.....thats a little scary.... unfortunately the budget hasn't allowed much to change too much on the thing ive got some new wheels on the back there thanks to mr matt "little red spirit" ive also been building up a bit of a 4age, that one day will be tested and put in for some fun times.... and the biggest change...its buffed, polished and waxed!!! unfortunately the bonnet still looks like crap.....gota respray one day... anyway heres some pretty pics for you all!

depends on the current state of the car too if its all the same colour, forget about the paint, and get suspension and brakes happening. then some 4age goodness...(note the order of components there) i bought a ke about 2yrs ago, with the intention of having it 4age'd within 6months...so far i have spent way to much cash on the suspension and brakes (its pretty good though), have replaced just about everything on the entire car, it came with all different colours, so its had a lick of paint and some nice mods to the outside (fudged up quad lights, and some shiny bars) and its still not 4age..... but its all good fun working on it though :yes:

the thing i hate about this E10 stufff.....is that the petrol stations advertise it on the billboards, and i forget...and get to the browser and normal fuel is 10C MORE!!! :no2: i tried E10 fuel in my 4k ke70 once, i did it by mistake, just put in 10$ worth since i already stated filling before i realised... for some reason it just ran terribly....was very difficult to start in the mornings (10$ lasts me almost a week, i don't drive much) and would splutter and carry on at low throttle. i ended up just going to servo and putting in 10$ of BP ultimate, i figured E10 pluss some ultimate should equal about same as normal fuel :dance: instantly it ran better, so i dunno..maybe i just got a bad batch of E10.... having said that i haven't ever put it in again, so maybe i just got unlucky, but ive always been wary of additives in fuel...but then again you never really know the quality of ANY fuel anyway....

i would be inclined to attack it with kill rust, and some primer (so it doesn't rust any more), and not actually cover the holes up, so that further water can get out?

i was just about to ask a very simliar question i have noticed that on my 4k (and my friends one), they have BOTH of these, one is at the front kinda on that lil copper tube that sticks out of the thermostat holder, and the other is at the side, kinda hard to get to tucked away. i orderd a brand new one from repco (temp gauge sender) and it cost me 20$, and it was the one with the little tab on the end so buggered if i know what the one with the nobbly thing is for.... (i put the new temp sender where the nobly one was before, and the temp guage works fine, and nothing else is broken, the only thing i can think is that the nobbly one is for a electric fan switch, like FWD cars have?) sorry not an informative post, but it adds a little more to the equation

amen to that RT114 is a winner on my lil car. http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u166/ke...e/ke70done3.jpg

yeah pretty much JDM (few other markets too..) TE71? DX lights they sell for around 300$ for a set, usually including a nice grill you need to hack your front apron panel thing to make them fit, you can see its a bit cut out where the bottom of the light surround fits in are they worth 300$? its supply and demand.. they are getting quite popular and people are starting to import them from various countries. there are stacks of guys with them on their ke70s (its almost hard to find ones that don't have them now...) they come up forsale quite often, and i think there are a few who can source them too

maybe his problem is he can't sign in :yes:

its interesting i found this topic before i got my cheapo whiteline adjustable panhard rod, i was very scepticle of how much the diff actually moved....and if my $120 or so was going to go to waste... i had some 14x8" 0 offset wheels on the rear, and put the lowered springs in, and sure enough the passenger side scrubbed like crazy, but the drivers side wasnt anywhere near scrubbing. now all the maths makes sense, and techincally it shouldnt move more than a few more, but my personal experience shows that it moves a whole lot more than 1mm.....you could actualyl see it was a lot different. although this is all relative to the rear guards...who sais they are the same on each side... unless of course like someone suggested, the diff is not in the centre from factory....which i guess could be right? they set up the front end with positive camber, so wouldn't surprise me if it wasn't in the middle? one thing i did notice, with my car at its current height, the panhard rod is essentially horizontal (can kinda see the height in the pic in my signature thing, its about 120mm high at the jacking sills) so id go as far as to say that in this configuration the movement of the diff would be almost negligable, the stiffish springs also help.

yeah I'm a pretty big fan of the new GTR i think... at first i didnt like the look of it...but the front is just mean as....back I'm still getting used to... then theres all the electronics jazz thats involved, i still don't like the flappy padle idea... but after watching the best motoring video where they take it for a thrash around the nurburg ring....holy tolito...what a ridiculously awesome car. i can't wait for top gear to test it out.... isnt toyota bringing out some fancy new lexus car? LF-A something? supposed to be the new supra?

how exactly do you tune a stocko aisan carby? i thought that you can only tune the idle mixture? my car uses way to much fuel, its jsut a stocko 4k with a 3k carby. it kinda varies, with 10$ of fuel (about 6.5 litres) sometimes the fuel light comes on at 35k's other times i get up to 70k's, with pretty much the same "enthusiasm" in driving....

could also be just a bit of dirt in the carby id attack the carby with some carby cleaner

hey man, yeah as sammo said is your mates ke flat front of slanty front? ill assume its flat front, as I'm pretty sure slanty never got sealed beams. you will find that the square light is the same as ALOT of cars, like hilux's, celicas, its a very common size used. even a bunch of non toyota cars have it. so if you head to your wreckers you might be lucky to find some cars with the semi sealed lenses so you can change the bulb to HID if you please.

15x8 offset of 0 are pretty extreme wheels, I'm sure they will fit...if you keep the car at stock ride height. wheels might stick out a fair way. your best bet is to try them on! tyre sizes make a big difference as well