ke70dave

my best bargain so far was a set of factory 4age RWD exhaust manifolds (primary's and secondaries) for $20. to bad i spent $30 driving to get it, but daym it was worth it!!!

just have a crack at it on a spare panel/tree/dog/side of house/road.... when we sprayed my car we had no idea what we were doing, but the inside of our makeshift spray booth (plastic sheets) got a nice coating of paint for about 1hr before we turned on the car.... from what we gathered you only want enough air to get an even spread of paint. to much air and it tends to "blow around" the paint on the panel. (on your gun is an air valve thing, and also a fan adjustment? i think) like ke30dude has said, we need some more info to give some specific answers.

yep camshaft mate. recently there is a thread like "how to change a camshaft" have a dig around for that. also, after spending like 4yrs doing up my car, i have a peice of advice... do not put a dollar value on your modifications (ie your $3000) it NEVER works out, just take it one step at a time. watching your money so you don't just go blowing cash for no reason. forget the concept of "i have 3000 to spend to make my car faster" start with the idea of "how can i make my car faster economically" if that makes sense. ive spent hours trawling through forsale sections of many many forums looking for parts, ask littleredspirit, i just sit on my wallet untill i see a bargain! then i jump on it! and hours crawling under cars at wreckers getting that rare part off the car that has just come in....its all part of the fun. take each modification one step at a time, start small and work your way up. have an end goal yes, but start at the beginning! and it sounds like the beginning for you might be some reading on the inner workings of a pushrod motor! (k series) if your keen send me a pm, I'm always on msn and up for a chat.

i remember back in the day my mate had an st162 celica, his was originally a 3sfe. he bought a SX, which has the 3sge. (it was smashed good, but all the running gear was fine) now we went to department of transport, and they said we didnt need a mod plate if the engine was an option for the car, and that all the brakes/suspension were off the same model. so we just ripped everything off the SX car, and chucked the entire engine/running gear/suspension into his car. and then just went and changed the engine number on the rego papers i wonder if we could have gotten away with that if we were trying to get it registered (in our case the car was already registered)

First things first, do yourself a favor and hit that magical little button just above where you are reading this. "knowledge base/FAQ". there is a nice little artical labeled "how to build a tough K motor". good read. now onto your specific questions (specific questions are good): Ok that's the things I needed to hear, but a few questions if you don't mind... 1. Out of the 32/32 down draft or 40mm side draft Weber what is better? (for a stock 4k) ive no idea, both are considered upgrades. the side drafts certainly look awesome. and if you get the twin carbys you can get it running really good. though don't expect it to be a powerhouse if the only thing you have done to it is a new carby. youll need to bump up the compression and put a different camshaft in to get the real benefits out of a better flowing carby. 2. With the extractors what type, brand, size etc. and full size exhaust, size type etc. any will do, find some on here for like $150. the standard manifold is so terrible i bet it would even run better without it!!! (ok thats a lie, as it would run terribly, but you get the idea) and don't go over 2" with the exhaust, some people even say 1.75". you might be able to find an exhaust on here for sale, seen a few lately. 3. The 3k head that is meant to bolt straight on, is it a stock untouched one straight off the 3k engine? and what does it do? apparnetly its got bigger ports, and it will raise the compression a bit. ive never done it. some people rave about it, others don't. plenty of info around about the head swap. pluss all 3k heads are now over 30yrs old, so id say your better off getting a spare 4k head and giving it a shave and having a bit of fun with a dremel. 4. A lumpier cam? When i drive i normally get the maximum revs i can. dunno if this is a question. I'm ron burgundy? getting the maximum revs wont help you when your stuck in traffic and needing to rev it to 4k to get anywhere. 5. and by decent clutch you mean.... brand, model etc. its a 4k, it has as much torque as a spinning broom (standard unmodified house broom) just get the exedy heavy duty. not that much more than a standard replacement. ive got one on my 16v 4age, plenty of bight! where to buy? any parts shop. with like..you know...car parts. good luck! and read that FAQ article i mentioned.

alternatively just cut off the bump stops! even with stiffer springs, at the height that most of us want to run our cars the bump stops need to be "modified" so the car doesn't bottom out on them. cutting stock springs isn't such a good idea, no gains will be had apart from the car being low. it will handle worse than it did before. grab some stiffer springs out of a falcon or something and cut them to your hearts content. and the only way to do it properly is by experimentation. cut a bit, test, cut a bit more off etc. alternatively do it properly by buying shorter springs that don't need to be cut.

i remember a few years ago i just plugged a neon light straight into a spare channel i had on my home amplifier. thats right, the power chords of the neon, into the +/- of the channel. worked brilliantly as a "flashy light thing that comes on with the bass". i guess neon lights can run on A/C as well... i however would not recommend this. jaycar used to sell a kit to do it properly. heheh i googled and got this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWL07eFp2Tk yeah find that kit, your going to have to learn a bit of soldering etc

far out nice project mate i like the detail you are providing, makes for good reading!! just a quick Q, what control arms did you say they were? mx83? cresider right? i've got the s13 gear in my car, with s13 control arms. how do mx83 control arms measure up? lookin for some shorter ones, though I'm told R31 works too. and what size and offset are those wheels you got on there? those guards don't look standard...

i guess it also depends on where you want to put the engine. a truck engine should fit in the back of wagon. hehe sorry. depends if your handy with a welder, or rich. then the world is your burrito or oyster. whats so special about toyota engines? especially the engines we all play with. fuel in, bang, exhaust out.

there are also setups that you put a mobile phone inside your car, and when you send an sms to the "car phone" it will send you back the current gps position. there was a kit you can buy, i think you have to use an old phone though. can't remember...prolly worth looking into. i think prevention is better than cure though. steering locks, not parking in dodgy places. i also try and take friends cars when we go out:P

you need to do the following to swap the front end on a ke: -2 x guards -1 x bonnet -1 x metal part between bonnet and windscreen -1 x front apron. -2 x front headlight assemblys (indiactors also) -1 x front bumber complete -1 x radiator support beam thing (part that goes between the rad support, and the bottom..beam?. the grill and the apron bolt to it as well) now for headlights the radiator support panels are DIFFERENT on the 2 differnet ke70 shapes (slant/flat). so the headlights WILL NOT bolt in to both series. 2 options for this -replace the radiator support panel (grind off old welds, weld in new one) -or make custom brackets for the flat front lights (quite easy to do if you got an imagination and some strips of metal. might even get away with only drilling a few holes, I'm not sure) you will also need to do a bit of re wiring i think, as the indicator/parker setups are a bit different. i never had standard flat front lights on my car so I'm not sure how it works. as for doing it in a day. i don't see why note. if your swapping rad support's then maybe a bit longer. depends how fast you work i guess!

well yeah good point, i didnt know realise he was in melbourne. i should read more carefully. admitedly mine was only a "mod plate", don't really know what the difference is, it was legit though.....he had just seen the conversion before and knew what was involved. but yeah it doesnt mean anything if he's not in brisbane.

the best thing to ask is specific questions mate ive helped a mate perform ca18 into an 86. same as ke70 once you put in a hydraulic clutch. its quite straight forward. what do you want to know?

you will need an engineers certificate for any engine change you perform. why don't you want an engineers certificate? p-plater? my engineering certificate/mod plate took 10mins and cost $80 for my engine conversion, though it was only 4age into ke70.

find a peice of string. measure it. Thats how much its gonna cost. theres not much point asking questions like that around here I'm afraid. lets jsut say if you are going to pay someone to do what you are suggesting, it wont be worth it!

dude I'm on page 12 of your thread. and all i can see, your work is incredible! damn you must have fun in that car!!! ill keep reading through.... unlucky about the bonnet deciding to pop up! edit well i finished reading the thread. can we have another video as it is now? i just love the "ill make it fit" attitude!

damn straight.... i liked the first 2 pics! but....if he likes it....i guess its good then.

yeah good point you can just use a socket to hit the outer race in as well. just have to have a few nice big ones to get the right size.

the wrecker near me is sometimes good and other times bad. they know what they have in the park, and they know how to charge for stuff that is rare..... they knew exactly what a 4age was, and what people put them in. i went to buy a tps for 4age, and they refused to seperate it from the throttle body, which they wanted $130 for.... but stuff off a ke70 is cheap as! and they seem to hang onto older cars for a while.

the greese method sounds rather......agricultural... but if it works, it works. i remember spending a few hours trying to get one out of an s13. they are a little different to 4age ones (and ive not seen a 4k one). more of a bush than a bearing. looked like a small peice of copper piping. We tried everything. got fed up. bought the tool. came out in like 10secs.

hey champ yeah mate its called a "pilot bearing puller" around $50 or so. you wont get it out without one!

assuming your talking about the indicators in the bars, ae82 bumper indicators fit perfectly. the lens is the exact right shape. you just have to work out how to mount them in there as the mounting brackets are totally different. i had same problem as you when i put my t18 bars on. i just went to the wreckers and found ae82's were a good option.

right update time!!! right well it has been a while since updates. not a whole lot has happend ive given the wheels a nice coat of paint ($2 export!) which is working alot better than i thought it would..... i have put some uber long wheel studds on the back, remind me of those spikey things that they put on the chariots..... ive put my surge tank system, theres a pic down there, working brilliantly, nice and quiet! ive also bought a A J P S t50 shifter bush rebuild kit thing. if any of you have a t50... and you don't have one of these...go and buy one!!!! much nicer gear changes. thanks again mr A. J. P. S. (when is rollaclub going to grow up and stop the A. J. P. S filter...) anyway heres some pretty pics of the blackened wheels I'm also on the look out for a t series diff too if anyone has one.. oh and i got me a recaro as well!

what ever you do don't put on any NEGATIVE castor!!! that wont go well.. id suggest a few degrees of positive camber (pulling the wheel forward in reference to the strut top) since you are only running 1 degree of static camber, a few degrees of castor will work well in inducing some dynamic camber. essentially its up to you really, get say +3 camber dialed in, and see if you like it. more positive castor will make the steering a bit heavier when going slow, but it will make the car track better at higher speed. for the record i have had zero castor on my ke, with -2 degrees of camber, for about a year now. and its ok. but i find the steering is too light on the highway. gonna wind it up a bit when i install the new castor bushes

yeah I'm not actually drilling a hole through the brass fitting. I'm meerly drilling into the fitting to create a cavity (that wont actually get wet) then putting the thermister into said cavity, and seeling it off with silicon. (remember the thermister is like 3mm long and 1mm wide) in heinsight i really shoudlnt have bothered with all this, and just used a temperature switch off a FWD car. but oh well, keeps me amused.