ke70dave

do you have the exact specs of the wheels? cause 195 isnt exactly that big for a ke70, its like the perfect size for 15" on a ke70 i reckon your wheels are 5-6" and quite a positive offset...

very very nice car! youve done a fantastic job getting it to this stage! gota be happy with it. just a Quick Q, how well does the corona door mirror fit on the outside? i cannot find a LH mirror anywhere for my car....and I'm sure there are plenty of coronas at the wreckers near me.

yeah no dramas from me. ive only bought 1 thing form him, and although there was a bit of a mixup with the postage it arrived. can we please remove the a j p s filter. its lame.

this should help you out and if it doesnt and I'm being serious about the 2nd one, check my worklog in members rides. i put a t18 bumper on mine, may be simliar, may be not.

hmm ive never had a drama with oil filters... always just bought ryco from supercheap, z386 for the 4age, and whatever is specified in the little book for the 4k (when i had it). like $8 or so! though admitedly i only changed the oil once in the 4k, over 2yrs.....though i only did around 10,000 so i guess thats ok. i do recall that once with the 4k i used to get a very bad rattle when i first started it up, but then the oil pressure came up (light went off) and it went nice and smooth. i think i fixed that by changing the oil and filter. i think maybe the guy before me put too thin of oil in...meh i dunno. it was only a 4k! i think the main thing with oil filters is just to keep changing them when you change oil. and don't thrash the car when its cold! and don't rev it when you start it. i can't stand seeing someone start a car and instantly rev it! GYAR!!! the 4age being EFI has the advantage (over the 4k) of being able to easily start it with no accelerator input at all. i generally start my engine with a few mins to spare before i have to go, sometimes i even start it and then go and put my shoes on or something. just a matter of leaning in the door and turning the key. starts about the 2nd time with no throttle (gets VERY close on the first go). revs stay nice and low for the first few secs too, since i don't have the idle up hooked up. ok ill stop rambling now....

cheers mate, you got a ke70 yourself? small update on the fuel system upgrade. my intank pump turned up the other day. its tiny!!!! about the size of a matchbox car!! looks heaps bigger in the tech article... anyway so i went wreckers hunting on friday and picked up a ke70 pickup thing for the tank, and a VL complete sender unit/pump mount thing. $55 for both, which i thought was a little steap but id just spent 45mins pulling a tank out of a ke70 in the heat, so i was buying it.....And far out the VL has a weird setup. i got my unit from a wagon, and it went in on the side of the tank and sorta curled over...hard to explain. its interesting how bad the build quality on the underside of the VL appears to be. the trailing arms look like they are made of scrap metal.....however i got the parts so i can't complain. ill get some pics when i start putting it together, hopefully i can have a go at it tomorrow night, and then put it into my car this saturday.

circuit opening relay with the ECU. have a google around, its the standard setup for the 4age. ensurs your pumps turn off when you your engine turns off. wire them both off the same output. just make sure you use a chunky main power feed.

+ www.yellowpages.com

haha well there you go, learnt something new today.

they come up at exuberant prices... i got mine a few years ago from littleredspirit for $100. i think i saw some for $350 the other day.... btw I'm in QLD, so not sure what you refered to as "over there":P T18's are rare enough up here, i bet they are almost non existent in Tasmania!

cheers mate yeah t18 bumpes lights are xt141? or something. old one with 18rc motor. fairly hacked up to "fit".

i bought this one http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...h623r2dq3ab3tt0

hmm people replying to my thread and i not noticing for 2 months.... thanks for the comment rollaspec. have a search for the flat front conversion, quite a few threads on it already, its easy as. in short: guards, lights (with rewiring), bonnet, grill thing between bonnet and windscreen, front apron. lights wont bolt in. as for the rolla, not much has changed. my front lip had an incident with a carpark gutter thing (those things that are suppose to stop your front wheels). and the mounts broke that were holding it on, and i havent bothered putting them back on. sorta like it without it. see how i go. i have some new front coilovers, with adjustable damping. my spine is grateful for that. got some bridge stone coilovers which are 8kg with 4 way adj damping, they use kyb agx inserts so are rebuildable as well. handles much better with these in. my fuel system is in the process of being rehashed, putting a VL lift pump inside the tank, going to follow the thing in the FAQ, hopefully get that done this weekend sometime. what else......i really need to do the rear bushes in my car. ive replaced the castor rod bushes not long ago, and that made a nice difference. front end is really tight now. looking into upgraded swaybar for the front, don't want to go to big though, but i can feel the front end rolling a bit to much. but i dunno about paying 300$ for a piece of bar......see if i can find me some good deals.... and thats about all i have to report!

ooh ooh i can answer this!! currently re-hashing my fuel system at the moment. i ran my 4age on just a bosch 070 (vl pump) external fuel pump (no lift pump) for a few months. it did run well, but after about 45mins the pump would get VERY noisy, and it would drive me up the wall. high pressure pumps are not designed to suck fuel, so i think they start to cavitate after a while. also contrary to popular belief, if i drove sedately i could run my fuel tank REALLY low (fuel light on for yonks....) without it surging. it was only when i got "enthusiastic" that it would surge. i then installed a surge tank setup, and made this tech article: http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/s...read.php?t=8255 have a read. i have had that setup in my since that tech article (a little over 8months). been going great. however i believe my lift pump has died/is dying. so thus i am changing my setup a bit. i am going to install a lift pump from the VL commodore inside my tank. the standard VL setup is a lift pump inside the tank, which feeds the external high pressure pump. this means that the lift pump must flow more than the high pressure pump (for your information the bosch 070 flows 130L/hour @ 3bar). what i am going to do, is use this internal fuel pump to fill up my surge tank. and the use my bosch 070 from the surge tank to the engine. and because my lift pump will flow more than my high pressure pump, i will be able to put the return from the engine straight back into the tank. this should help with fuel heating issue (which i suspect i had as well....) but since i have a surge tank between the lift pump and the high pressure pump that should stop any surging issues. here is how to install the lift pump into an ae86 tank (should be similar to ke70 i'm hoping): http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit..._AE86_Fuel_Tank so in short. buy a lift pump (mine cost 91$) buy a small surge tank (mine was 99$) and say good by to surge issues, and hello to a nice neat fuel pump setup. and just use the standard metal lines, they are big enough. also in response to kiahn. do not use a bosch 044. they flow 200L/hour @ 5bar. it is an absolute complete over kill (standard jap ae86 has an 80L/hour pump) i ran one in my car recenently trying to diagnose a problem, and my fuel pressure regulator could not handle the flow and also it was heating up my fuel sooo much that i was getting a vapor lock issue (google it, its very interesting). my fuel was getting so hot that my surge tank was essentially untouchable after a 30min drive.

edit: damn you Hiro Protagonist you beat me to it!! ahh well... watchoo talking about 67rolla-ken? hes talking about a bigport 4age, and that club-k thing is for a 20V. bigport dizzy sticks out the side of a 4age bigport, so no dramas with firewalls. now onto mr wezksev: next time you post, please use sentences. a sentence incorporates 1 idea and explains it. if you have more than 1 idea, use more than 1 sentence. you have from what i can see 3 ideas, and i don't think you even have 1 sentence.... but from what ive gathered: 1) if you pull the dizzy out, yes it has to go back in a special way. I'm not going to say it has to go back in the same way it came out, as it may have been put in wrong in the first place. download the 4age manual and have a read. no your engine wont run if its put in wrong. 2) if you do a decent job any branded headgasket will be fine. just buy from a reputable company (acl, repco, burons etc) get the head overhauled if you are changing the gasket, with this they will skim the head to make it seal nice. also spend a few hours with a razor blade on your block, so it too seals well. 3) standard 4age bigports and small ports are non interference. i dunno about 20V's, but id assume yes they are as well. i think i read somewhere that all toyota engines with timing belts are non interference.

speak for yourself Evan G. how did you come to your 99.999% write off rate? i tend to agree with RedKE30. to the OP: how big are ta22 brakes? i wouldn't bother with the upgraded master cylinder. why do you even need to upgrade brakes? and yeah whats with stainless brake lines? wouldn't bother. i would get new soft rubber bits if they are damaged, if not leave it alone. what do you want to do a T series conversion for? whats the advantage? just overhaul the current one? you haven't mentioned anything engine wise besides a possible 5k, you arent gonna need a diff upgrade for that. just be careful you don't go fixing things that aren't broken. easy to waste money doing that.

some dude in that thread suggested they were just taking the carbon deposits off. maybe they were, but prolly not the best idea to do it with an angle grinder.

sounds like you just got a block in the jets in the carby. id start by giving it a good go with carby cleaner. rev the guts out of it while you spray it into the carby. works a treat. check your base timing too, should be around 10 degrees BTDC. pull the spark plugs and give them a go with a wire brush. also check your points too. the gap is 0.5mm i think, check the reference section. just a general tune up should clear your problems.

take that hose to super cheap auto, and find one that looks like its gonna fit.

yeah but he is running a haltech, not a standard computer. resetting the TPS is a little more complex than that with an aftermarket ecu. Well its actually easier, but requires a laptop. you really need to get inside that haltech ecu and see what it is doing, you will know for certain what is making your engine idle up. and if the only option you have is to get this performance shop to do it , then i guess thats what your gonna have to do. there isnt much we can help you with as we don't know what enrichment maps are running and what the settings are. and by the sounds of it neither do you. if you can get your laptop onto that haltech that woudl be the way to go.

essentailly with seats you get what you pay for. bride seats your looking at not much change from $2k (prolly more) for a basic pair of seats (with rails, thats if you can buy rails for your car) and bride seats arent legal on the roads, and can't be engineered either. there are stacks of crappy cheap brands that are cheap as (supercheap, autobahn) some people like them. others don't. in my car i currently have an old recaro seat, i got it for $450 with a rail to suit an R32, sold the rail for $250. winnah! made my own rails for free too, easy to do for bottom mount. its uber comfy, and about as "buckety" as i would go for a street car. its nice and easy to get in and out of, but it holds you in very well in the twisty stuff. heres mine http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u166/ke...ve/pooke705.jpg there is also the brand "velo" which seem to be fairly reasonable pricing, but they are only available in fixed back design. which I'm not really a fan of.

hmm I'm not so sure sam. i used a ke70 cable on my 4age conversion (into ke70) now i found the cable to miles to long. it was binding up quite badly which made the accelerator pedal quite long. but.,.you say you converted from 4ac, so i assume you had a 4ac cable before. 4ac's having the carburettor on the other side of the engine will mean that the cable will be shorter. but I'm not sure if it will be too short. the reason i say that is i hear alot of ae86 boys (4ac) having dramas with the standard ae86 cable not being long enough (4ac). on my car i ended up shortening the ke70 (4kc) cable. all i did was cut out a piece of the plastic casing and sorta made a "splint" to hold the rest of the cable straight.

idle up = air going into engine. i think you may have a leak, and since you were playing with the intake gaskets i think you may have created a leak... why did you change the intake gaskets? by powerband throttles are you refering to the TVIS? (butterflies between the head and the manifold) don't worry about them, they don't let in more air, they just allow more air to flow. they just restrict the flow at low revs. a way to check where your leak is, is to get some sort of nasty propelant ("start ya bastard" or anything that is likely to explode, i reckon deodorant would work too) and spray it around your intake manifold when your engine is going. if some of it gets in it will change the idle of your engine. you will notice something anyway.

haha this gives me great confidence.... "Drifting is really nothing new. If your car's rear end has ever swung around on a wet road, and you've struggled for 20 meters to get control, you've drifted." i dunno about that.... looks interesting. i bet its not cheap though!

ring them up..... is the word "for" so hard to type?