ke70dave

sure the head isnt warped? best of taking the head down to a engine shop and getting it pressure tested and checked for straightness. i too noticed the weirdness of the 4kc headgasket when i changed it on a mates car.

don't think the battery will be the issue with that alternator. did you start the car with said battery? if you did then it can't be too bad. maybe you might have stuffed bearings in your alternator...see how you go though.

replace all the rubber seals on the injectors. if they are cracked or broken they wont seal and your fuel will go everywhere, like you are experiencing. i think repco do seal kits for them. failing that ring up one of those mobile injector service guys they will have them.

yeah 15x8 zero's wont fit very well on standard guards. i mean they might "fit" but if you actually want to use your suspension travel (ie drive somewhere) they willl scrrruubbbbbb. are you using tyres with a bit of "stretch" to them, ie sitting fairly flat with the lip? if you are you should be able to get away with just rolling up the guards, plenty of info out there on doing that. but be prepared to crack your paint, though i hear if you use a heat gun while your bashing your guards you can get away with not cracking, I'm not convinced but sure give it a go! have a look at what height springs others have got (look through their members rides, ask them questions directly), if your only intersted in going a bit lower then get a set of "low" king springs perhaps, if you are intersted in increasing the performance of the car, then you may want to look at getting some ae86 struts or corona struts and getting some decent shock absorbers while your at it. by the way its spelt 'before' not 'b4' , and 'anyone' not 'any1'....

hahah thats what i was thinking.... i think we are definately going to need more pics of this project. its good to see some body work has been done. damn i have to get me a ke20 one of these days. you guys had better not buy them all before i get a chance to buy one...

good work matty! gonna be good to have you corolling along again! hills cruise soon perhaps....

why have i never found this thread before? quite possibly the coolest corolla ive seen, the fabrication is nuts, and you have some sweet simple styling to compliment it. very nice mate. you must have a grin on your face whenever your driving this thing. i know i would!

far out thats cool. wish i had the patients to do that mate. my limited knowledge of php/html/sql tells me that what you are doing....is crazy:P haha keep it up, looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

hey mate, have you done a diagnostic on your ECU? if not id start there, hook up a check engine light and see what codes are being thrown up. its cheaper than replacing everything!

yeah mate do as you say with the 2 nuts. use 2 spanners to tighten them up against each other and hopefully its enough grab on the thread to be able to unscrew the studd. oh c'mon be brave, fuel and welding mix nicely.

not just touching, they are pushed right up against each other! also. agius: the original poster doesnt say there isnt any thread left....just sais that its snappd in half. if you can get one nut on it, tack weld it on the thread and undo!:y:

don't destroy the thread with pliers!!! put 2 nuts on the studd. and tighten them against each other. then just use a normal spanner to undo it.

ah you must be an engineer like me mr philbey. i too suffer from the over analysis of simple ideas. do what mr philbey said (not the wasted time...) just measure the distance from the pivot point of the bonnet to the attachement of the gas strut. (this might be a tad tricky if your bonnet hinges go inside of the car, i think they do on a ke70...). maybe do one side first and get it perfect, then copy it to the other side. in fact you may find you only need one side?

dude......SENTENCES. full stops, commas etc. sounds like vapor lock to me, does it start well after you have left it for a loonnnnggg time (ie over night)? if it doesn't start after not driving it for ~20mins, then it can be heat soaking and causing vapor lock. dunno what you can do about that. its kinda a "flaw" with mechanical fuel pumps. vapor lock is an interesting phenomenon. I'm pretty sure i was getting vapor lock at my high pressure pump inlet...

they don't fit in the front. people think they do, but they do not. you need to cut the springs in half to get them the right length. cut springs in the front is dodgy. rear is not so bad, the cut end sits nicely in the spring holder....thing... in the chassis. make sure you get new shocks though, it will handle like pooooo if you just put in springs and not shocks. have a search around, key word "short stroke shocks".

alternator? get it started again (with your mates jumper leads), and measure the voltage across the battery when its RUNNING. should be 13-14V or so. if you thinking something might be draining it, then put an ammeter between the battery positive and the positive lead (ie take off the positive lead, and put your ammeter inline with it and the battery) should be zero when the car is off. you don't have the light in the boot on? i remember some dude had left it on and his battery kept going flat on him.

or just adjust the tappets....?

just get another one and try your luck? wreckers near my only charged me 15$ for a 3k carby. the 3k carby is awesome, hardly any pipes to attach, not a whole lot can go wrong (if its off a running engine). my understanding is that an "upgraded" carby isnt much use, unless you have the camshaft/compression to eat more air. but those can be had for cheap. also make sure all other things are good, attack it with carby cleaner, new points, attack the spark plugs with a wire brush, get the timing light out. make sure you eliminate the simple things before you go spending money, unfortunately ive learnt the hard way...to many times.

2"is a fair bit. solid joints (this heim joint) willl of course radiate more noise. my mates rose jointed 4 link (well 5 link i guess if you count the panhard rod) is fairly noisy, but you can't hear it over the exhaust so its all good.. i just got a whiteline adj one for my car, was about $90 off ebay. "upgraded" rubber bushes at each end to stiffen things up a bit. does the job.

er....your wrong! cut falcons (to the height you see in my signature) are no more than 5kg/mm. cuts are "ok" in the back, but bad news for the front. least you have the "spring tunnel" (mounting part in the chassis) in the back of the car to keep the point end of the springs in...in the front your hoping that the pointy end of your spring stays on the spring seat....good luck!

sounds like you are having a bit of fun with this matty, good to see it coming together!! just a quick Q: what you mean by "jdm style clutch"?? brand new clutch systems rock my socks (especially when i'm driving and not wearing shoes...hehe) when i put my 4age in i had brand new everything clutch related, was quite epic.

that may have been me you were thinking of, my 4k used to rattle on start up. but it went away with a new oil filter. i wouldnt worry about it though. just don't rev the thing AT ALL when you start it. my old 4k it never used to start unless i gave it a bit of choke/throttle, so in the morning i just wouldnt give it any for a few secs, so it could build up some oil pressure before i gave it a bit of choke to make it start. and keep the oil/oil filter changes up to it. maybe try a different oil filter each time, see which one you like. or check that thread and see what others said (i think some people mentioned that the brand they bought had a return valve..or something) i just bought the ones from supercheap, ryco. cheap as. and afterall....it was only a 4k! (though i still buy ryco for the 4age! haha)

hmm that restistor thing doesnt make much sense.... if the ecu thinks the air is cold, then it thinks its more dense, thus more air particles, thus it will add in more fuel. ie not saving you much, and it will be running rich...thus slowing you down...maybe it tricks the ecu into thinking its hot air, then its simliar to my 2nd paragraph. (though 40% and 50% numbers are a little extreme, lets try 2 and 3%) (which makes me remember how AWESOME my car is to drive on a cold winters night...it loves it...and i love driving it). i remember hearing (from beerhead...hehe) that you can put a potentiometer in line with the water temp sender on a 4age, and essentially lean out the engine, thus giving you more power. i think this has some merit, but you would want a decent wideband to see what your car is doing...mmm detonation.

i had a good chat to "rollinalong" (i think his nic is...) yesterday arvo in wynnum. if someone has some good slanty front ke70 front panels help him out! i think hes pretty much after a complete front end.

that was a cool article, even if it wasnt entirely correct (i have no idea if it is or not) but at least it has some technical stuff to back up its claims. i cannot stand driving a "fly by wire" car, feel so disconnected from the car, the engine just doesn't do what you want it to do. what is even worse is the new VW golf (turbo diesel i drove) with DSG gearbox and fly by wire, totally....gay.....i could not drive it at low speed comfortably.