ke70dave

to me it sounds definately like the timing marks arent showing the true ignition timing of your engine. though it is weird that shorting the diag port doesnt change anything. if at the "proper" timing (10-15 on your light) the extractors are getting hot, it shoudl run like a dog, have no throttle response etc. if that is the case then it is definately retarted timing. also double/tripple/quadruple (spell?) your cam timing. mine was out for ...quite a while...before i realised....make sure you use the timing marks on the rim of the cam gears. i used the marks that are closer to the centre of the cam gear....bad medicine. does the diagnostic mode work at all? you will need an check engine light hooked up to test this, but you sound like you know what you are doing so you should be able to sort that out. maybe get it into proper diagnostic mode (ign on, engine off, diag port shorted) and see if you get flashes on the check engine light. i think it still flashes something if everything is working fine. code 1 maybe? also i have "heard" that some 4age's have different timing marks, maybe it was the MR2 4age that had different riming marks? did you wanna take a quick pic of the timing marks you are looking at on your engine? there should be a few marks on the plasic timing belt cover, i think the mr2 has something weird? maybe you have a combination? if you are sure that your cam timing is correct, and your dizzy is in the right spot. you could just advance it untill it sounds/runs good and leave it? or do it the old fashion way, advance it untill it pings, and wind it back a bit!

not sure, i think they are 13x5.5, I'm gonna guess a fairly positive offset. hard to guess though.

i woudlnt say they fit well.... you will need some serious wheel arch bashing to get them to "fit" i have 15x7 +10 (195/50/r15) and they still scrub on the rear with the lip bashed up. (though my panhard rod needs some adjustment, so that may help, hopefully the other side doenst scrubbing...) despite what the JDM wannabes say, in order for wheels to fit your car, they need to be able to move through their COMPLETE suspension travel WITHOUT the tyre touching anything.

you really can't tell untill you pull the head off and get it checked by a machinist. if the head is slightly warped it will need a skim (~$100) if the head is bent it will need a recondition (~$500) but for that price you could just pick up a 2nd hand head from here, or even just a whole new engine. i sold a complete 4k and gearbox for like $100... don't jump to conclusions though, get the car home, compression test it, check for bubbles in the radiator etc.

haha youve confused him trev... yeah that was back to back swapping them with the new fuel pump. i pretty much drove for 10mins, swapped it over, drove for another 10mins with new ecu, then swapped it back again. and there was defintely a difference there. not much admitedly... sorry just read the thing about the camshafts, 272. i was under the impressing as soon as you go past 250/260deg the ecu can't handle it at all. so yeah not the greatest, but certainly an improvement over the standard adm ecu on a stocko 4age.

that may be true, but swapping from the adm ecu (the one i got from you actually trev...) to my jap ecu i definately noticed a significant difference. i dunno if its "Faster" but its got more of a bight to it, sounds crisper, certainly is better to drive. id get one over an ADM, $100 isnt to bad, see them up around the $150 lately. and yeah they are plug and play. also half those things on your list there i would consider maintenance not upgrades! haha.

sounds like you are powering ahead with the beast matt! good to see it all coming together nicely.. unlucky about that rear guads though, but not so bad since you intend on re spraying anyway.

man i love the dash! thats a great job. great build you have here, ive not seen it before. sr20 in a ke55 is gonna be a bit mental i think.

essentially JDM is the most overused annoying term describing the style of cars that people go for. wheels that don't fit, bent guards to try make them fit, tyres that don't fit on said wheels to try and make said wheels fit...etc though in reality as stated it just stands for japenese domestic market, so calling a car "JDM" is saying that "that car was sold in japan"...which it prolly was, in a much cooler form! btw isnt that black ke70 wagon from america? its left hand drive. either way it looks rediculous... on the other hand, jap cars are just so damn pretty..... exhibit a)

just do what these guys have done. 2 stroke fuel is cheap

unsure exactly what you are asking mate. you like the look of the commondore dash, you arent using a commondore engine, but you want to use it in your corolla? corolla uses analogue sensors for everything (ie resistance sensors, and cable for the speedo) new cars are all digital (still resistances etc, but its not going to be as simple as the corolla). and all the resistance ranges are going to be different. you will need to use the comonodore sensors and somehow put them into the corolla engine. to be honest i don't even know where to attempt to start explaining, its going to be a complete and utter pain the ass to put a fancy new dash into an old corolla. the two systems are just not going to be compatible. you will have better luck if you get the entire dash loom/engine loom ecu/engine/gearbox out of the commondore and hook it all up. one must ask why?

hmmm I'm pretty sure that at idle there should be a very high vacume present. not as high as if you are at high revs with the throttle closed, but its certainly a whole lot more than "zero vacume" you are better off getting an aftermarket ecu to run a 4age on quads, i think the main problem is the fluctuations and unreliability of the vacume source. with an aftermarket ecu you can setup a duel map type system, where you can use the map sensor when there is high/reliable vacuum, and a TPS based map when there is low/unreliable vacuum. (thats my understanding anyway) having said that some people have got it to work fairly well with stocko ecu, but it definitely isn't optimal.

ah i love these rear strut bar things. i also love the fact people pay such rediculous amounts of cash for them. i can sorta see the worth while of these in say s13's that have "coilover" struts, but even then they have double wishbone in the back anyway, so the spring/shock will never have lateral forces on it. sure bracing is a good idea (especially with stiffer springs etc), but don't brace the 2 moving parts together!! i like the idea of welding a few bits of pipe between the shock mounts/spring perches and the parcel shelf. the parcel shelf is supposed to be pretty strong, or even better you could weld to the C pillar, the seat belts are on there so must be pretty strong. alternatively you could weld a fewrandom pipes across your boot and fill your boot with expander foam. that will stiffen it up!! steel-foam composite anyone?...just don't open your boot...ever...

to be honest i cannot work out what you are asking. you appear to know the mods to do. think of your engine and associated components as a peice of pipe, and you want to try and get as much air to travel through this pipe as possible. (an engine is an airpump) now if you were to say, enlarge one end of this pipe and kept the rest of the pipe the same (think of a funnell), how do you think it is going to compare to standard? it will flow a bit more but you are still restricted by the rest of the pipe being small. the thing with engines, is they are only as "good" or "Fast" as their weakest link. you can have an epic exhaust (the back end of the pipe), and a nice carby/intake (the front end of your pipe) but if you don't do something about the middle of your pipe (compression/camshaft) then it will be like pinching the peice of big hose and wondering why not much water comes out. it will flow good at one end, and the other end, but not where you have pinched it. and thus overall it will only flow as much as the middle. see what I'm getting at? a carby and exhaust is a good way to get some more horespowers out of your engine, but in order to maximise the potential you need to have supporting mods. not saying a carby and exhaust wont make you go faster, it prolly will. based on how terrible the standard items. there is like a billion threads on upgrades for k motors. in a nutshell. good carby and manifold, higher compression, bit of porting perhaps, a nice camshaft, set of extractors and a nice exhaust. annnndd it will prolly still go slow cause its a 1.3L pushrod engine, but it will definately be better than before! (stocko fuel pump will be fine...its only 1.3L!!) also how do you expect to learn how to change a camshaft if you don't ever do it the first time? buy a manual and follow the directions. i have the toyota K motor manual sitting in front of me. its a great little book, hunt one down! and after all, if you blow it up, someone will sell you a whole new engine for like $50.

ca18 gbox will be fine, it works fine in a silvia. we put a ca18 turbo into a sprinter and the only thing that didtn break was the gearbox. get a proper fuel system as suggested, and make sure its all under the car not in the boot! intank lift pump, and high pressure feed pump. r31 diff is a good choice, as you can get a kaaz lsd for them, though if its a pure track car (not regoed) then just get a locker i guess. if your handy with a welder go and buy some bends and straights from an exhaust shop and make up some inter cooler piping. btw you havent specifically said you have a ca18 det, but id sure hope so. a non turbo ca18 would be a bit boring. if you are not going turbo, you will never need an upgraded diff or gearbox. hydro clutch is from an ae71. apparently if you get rb20 engine mounts a CA18 will bolt up to a k series engine crossmember, might be something to look into. as for tailshaft, when you have your diff and engine mounted just measure how long you need the shaft done and then get a 1 peice shaft made with new uni's at either end. i think my mate paid 300 for his.

i hear you can use RB20 engine mounts and the CA will bolt up to the K crossmember? you had better consult an engineer before you perform these mods, or you may find out you can't engineer it all.

i wonder though, track is measured from the centre of the wheels right? so essentially you could have massively wide wheels that stick out heaps, but not have that much more track. though i guess the tyre width comes into play as well.. (i think QLD can have 25%/30% wider wheels?) if your worried about track with s13 stuff (which you should be, its terribly on my car) look into getting some R31 control arms, a fair bit shorter. the R31 guys use s13 LCA's to gain track, so i don't see why it wouldnt work in reverse. also, with the extent of the mods in your car, your going to need an engineering certificate anyway.

sounds like you are doing well!! yeah well on the 4age the camshafts have to come out, so i guess the 4af would be the same. remember to keep the cam shaft caps in the right order. i think they have stamps on them.

unfortunately you are going to have to work out what all those big words mean if you want to do it yourself. try and get yourself a proper engine manual, the "gregories" ones are good. lots of pictures. prolly $40 or so from repco etc. like this compression test will involve a tool called a compression tester, you screw it into your spark plug hole, and crank the engine, and it has a little guage that tells you how much pressure your cylinder is holding. from this test you can have a pretty good guess as to what is going on. just for interests sake, for a mechanic to change your headgasket its going to cost about $1000 and that is assuming that your head is good. and a mechanic prolly isnt going to be too keen to pressure test it for you, you can try though.

buy an engine manual for your car mate! its about the only way to do it, will give you step by step for anything on your car, and has pretty pictures too. once you have the head off take it to an engine machinist and get them to pressure test it, they will tell you if its stuffed or not. as for specilist tools, a torque wrench to do the head bolts back up again, thats about it. and yes if you don't do it properly it will all go pear shaped! as for time to be done, if you study the manunal for a bit before you start you should have the head off within a few hours, down to the engine shop and depending if you need a new head or yours needs work that might take a few days, then a few hours to put it all back together. where you live mate? note: before you do anthing, do a compression test. don't want to pull your head off for nothing!

wow you have put so much effort into your post! I'm going to put the same amount into my post! you want to put tyres INTO your ke70? 345/40/R20 should fit INTO your ke70. into the boot that is.

so the exhaust sucked the water out of your oil? man thats awesome! should market those to people with blown headgaskets. ---- i took my 4age for a spin with it straight off the extractors, went ok, but it was tooooooo loud to go too quick.... just get an exhaust then you can test drive to your hearts content. if you have lost power then its prolly cam timing or ignition timing. but the original poster has prolly worked that out by now..

hey mate sounds like your on the right track. the brake line has a little clip thing that holds it onto the strut, essentially jsuta flat peice of thin plate that has some strategically shaped cuts in it. once you see if you will figure it out. pair of pliers is your friend here. and once you undo the 2 bolts that holt the steering arm to the strut they will seperate, may need a bit of "enthusiasm" from your favourite hammer, but thats only cause they would have been joined together for the last 25years. also if you are changing the the shocks/springs there is no reason to take off the hub and the disc, just pull the strut out with those attached, a bit heavier perhaps, but saves stuffing around with hubs/bearings etc. pluss you will need to re torque the main nut that holds the hub on to pre tension the bearings again. just take off the caliper and hang it up somewhere in the wheel well still connected to the brake line, one note..once you have the caliper off DO NOT touch the brake pedal!!

ah yes i had this drama. what does your fuel system comprise of? surge tank? 2 pumps? one pump? that pipe that it is leaking from is under the level of the fuel. and so when the tank presurises it forces fuel out of the tank via that little pipe = fuel everywhere. assuming you have a standard tank, in your tank there are 3 pipes. -one is the feed to engine, which is the lowest pipe as you want to get as much fuel as you can. -the 2nd is the return, which in my tank was about half as long, so prolly drops down about 20cm or so into the tank. -the 3rd one is the breather, this only goes into the tank about 10mm, so it is always above the level of the fuel so the tank can actually breathe air when it is presurised. now you have 3 fuel lines running up your car, there is 2 bigger ones and 1 smaller ones. you want to use the bigger ones for your feed/return and you want to use the smaller one for your breather. now this is a little different to how it is setup with the standard engine, but i can't remember what exactly the standard setup is.... anyway what you need to do is the following: -the breather pipe in the fuel tank (sticks in 10mm in to the tank), connect it to the smaller pipe, and at the other end connect it to your carbon canistor. -the feed pipe in the fuel tank (the lowest pipe, closest to the bottome), connect it to one of the bigger pipes (via pump/surge tank etc) and then connect that to your fuel rail. -the other pipe (sticks into the tank 20mm or so), this is your return to the tank, either via your surge tank or fuel reail etc here is a picture of the thing in your tank, give you an idea of the pipes etc.

dude please do not post again like that, it takes an extra 0.5secs to write a PROPER post with good punctuation and spelling. you can't expect people to put much effort into replys if your not putting the effort in yourself. have a read of this http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...a_tough_K_motor and once you have read it all, get back to us with further specific questions. good luck! also you don't want back pressure, the reason that making an exhaust pipe to big is bad is becuase the smaller the exhaust pipe is the greater venturi effect is present. ie, when gases flow through a pipe, the gas at the exiting end tends to "suck" the gases through the pipe, and gives a bit more power due to the exhaust being "sucked" away from the engine. if you make the pipe to big for the amount of gases you are flowing (ie 5" exhaust on a 3k) there is not enough gas to create the ventur effect, no sucking of exhaust, less power!