ke70dave

ah some good stories here boys. few years ago we were doing the head on my first car, 84 mazda 323. 1.3L FWD thing. had it in the garage and put a nail into one of the beams in the roof and suspended the timing chain from it. should have hit the nail harder as it came out of the wood and went straight down the timing chain compartment. luckily it got caught in the tensioner and a magnetic stick came to the rescue. ive not done the oil cap one yet, lets hope i never do...

there is a thread somewhere with a heap of quarter mile times. i think someone did a 19sec with a stocko ke70 4 speed. and littleredspirit did a 15ish with a silvertop 20V 4age. so id say somewhere between those 2 for your 5k, depending what "fullyworked" means.

i woudlnt mind giving the ke a drive down the strip, $40 isnt bad. like matty sais its very laid back, plenty of people to talk to. ive been out there once with my mate in his rx7, came home on a trailer with 2 snapped axels. he was the first car inline as well....good times.

damn I'm about 7 years to late for junior speedway. To bad its not junior skill, as i would fit right in. better aim a bit higher then, i shall check out the cams site.

yeah to me slight camber adjustment seems a bit out of the scope for this junior speedway. this speedway looks fun though, is it cheap to get into? or is everything CAMs....(ie approved rollcages logbooks etc..)

stupid question, what is "speedway"? is it those beat up old cars with cages racing around a dirt circular track? thats what comes to my mind. and those noisy buggy things with HUUUGGEE roof spoilers.

youll prolly have the same problem with any standard strut using a ~6" spring camber tops really only work when you go to a "coilover" setup which uses a much smaller spring, common sizes being 60mm or so. then there is heaps of room to move the strut around in the strut tower to acheive some static camber. in order to get more camber you could possibly fit some longer control arms, though i am unsure what works in ke55's. you can also just wind up the castor so you get more camber when turning. just don't go to far or it will get twitchy.

as stated they will just bolt to your ausi struts no worries. i highly recommend the GSL rally sport bloke who is a sponsour on this website. very good to deal with, and ships fast! i just bought a pair of jap 86 discs (RDA7500S, S is for slotted) for $240/pair from him. epic price compared to other suppliers. repco doesnt do RDA, and the best price i found was bursons that wanted $175...per rotor... I'm a little skeptical of using thinner brake pads to accomodate for the vented disc, but apparently it works. i got some jap calipers quite cheap, but then went and spend $240 on getting them rebuilt with stainless steel bore, new piston and seals. they had better be good thats for sure. oh and your current rubber brake lines will work with the jap calipers too.

ah well i reused mine...... fingers crossed hey. one day ill get a thinner headgasket and some new bolts so i can destroy what is left of my rings ;)

somewhat offtopic, but when i did my 4age hadgasket the packaging had a torque spec (50-100-150nm...or something, 3 stages) but the 4age manual specifies a certain torque and then a certain spinning of the bolt. ie torque to 100nm, and then turn 90 degrees. i just went with the toyota manual specs i think. still going after 1yr, so must have been alright.... (ps numbers in this post don't mean anything, and should not be used as any reference)

i don't know why these threads exist. what kind of answer are you expecting? "ke35's are sik mate you should fulli finish it eh, they go hard" or "nah ke35's are garbage, sell it and buy a volvo and put an ls1 into it" or "sure ill buy it for $100" first off you havent provided any pics, or any information on the car. what is included? what isnt? rust? k's? engine? registered? roadworthy? wheels? brakes? also have a read of the "how to write" thread in the social section. single sentences don't generally have 90 words in them. if you want to sell it, put it up for $1000 and keep dropping the price untill someone buys it. if you don't want to sell it, stop making threads and get on with finishing it, you say you have the parts. There can't be more than about 48 parts in a late 70's corolla, shouldnt take you long;) like taz said, only you can decide if you want to sell it.

yep agreed but this is the internet matty! we are all experts!

can we get a more front on view of the cam gears? i can see a nice white dot on the intake gear, but can't quite see where the dot is on the exhaust side. though if you have done the same on the exhaust side then you should be right. also you have the dot lined up down on the timing belt gear on the crank? can't quite see it down there. but if you have taken a pic of it then you should be right.

i see where you are coming from matt, and a 20V is definately better than a 16V but if you assume that the engine is to remain standard then i still see the bigport/smallport being a better option. the main draw back of the 20V is the aftermarket ECU is required, which although is a fantastic investment, has the potential to double a conversion cost. you know how much money i spent on my 4age conversion matty, so would know the impact that an adaptronic (~$1500) + a tune (~$400) would have on the my budget. now on the other hand, to get a smallport/bigport up to 20V level of performance (or closeish too) will also require an aftermarket ecu (+~$1900) and cams (+~$1000). so looking at it from that point of a view a 20V is a more economically viable solution. but if the OP is content with a standard bigport or smallport, which in my car is plenty of fun and definately enough power to have fun, and get into trouble. then the cost benefit of using a 16V with a standard ecu is very appealing. i think the OP needs to go for a ride in a few cars, to see if the extra cost of a 20V is worth it.

what i don't understand is when these so called "short" words take just as much typing and effort as the real thing.... i don't care much for spelling, i can't spell very well, but thanks to firefox i can see where i go wrong. but sentence structure is the big one for me, if have to try and figure out what someone is trying to say then i think it needs attention. and general courtesy towards others that are reading. egsample: idiot post: "does any1 no what springs are a gud upgrade 4 a ke70" better post: "hey guys I'm new around here but i have a ke70 and i am looking for some springs to upgrade, does anyone know some good options for this?" essentially both posts "Say" the same thing, but the 2nd post is just more polite. even though it is a question that should be answered with the search button, you feel like the writer is genunily keen to find out some good information. it doesnt even have to be the best grammer or spelling or punctuation, but if it was read aloud it needs to sound polite and make sense.

setup a sifon, and just keep the tank uber full!! in theory a hole in the bottom of the tank would work, but you really need to keep the surge tank chock-a-block with fuel. and the head of fuel wouldnt be constant (varying fuel levels and also fuel sloshing around). i think my surge tank is actually slightly pressurised, since the lift pump is continually pumping. benefits of this are a happy high pressure pump. both my pumps are completely silent, so i guess it must be working good. for a few months i had my high pressure pump trying to suck fuel straight out of the tank (no surge, just a pump inline with the fuel line) it did work, but the pump just wouldn't SHUTUP. cavitating like mad. the noise was enough to make me VERY angry after a long drive..... i assume i was damaging the pump as well, but the pump still works at the moment...so it must be ok.

yep you sure do. I'm not sure where you are coming from with your "tank will be at a much higher potential" business. the fuel lines still go into the top of the tank so you still need to suck the fuel out and shove it into your surge tank. correct that the high pressure pump arent any good at sucking, thats why we use a surge tank. but you still need to fill that surge tank up somehow. for the lift pump, check out the FAQ. there is an article on putting a commondore lift pump INSIDE an ae86 tank. I'm sure it can be adapted to a ke30. i did it on my ke70 and it is awesome. so quiet and simple setup. if you jump over to ae86drivingclub, in the tech articles section i have written up how i did my under car surge tank setup. have a quick look at that if you like.

what i don't understand is why buyers insist on posting in forsale threads, to find out more information. if i see somethign i want to buy, i never post in the thread, i go directly to PM or the telephone. having a billion posts questioning the item just reflects that the description on item wasnt sufficient. or that the buyer isnt really that keen to buy, they just want to see pretty pictures. oh yeah and noobs low balling in threads, that will always happen. something to do with the anonymousness (is that a word? i like it) of the internet. oh yeah, and the PM sent thign is a bit annoying. we get emails to tell us we get PM's i don't think we need 10 posts PMsent, PMreplied, PMsent etc.... also how annoying is it when the first 2 pages of car sale add is just people askign for pictures? mandatory pictures for car adverts perhaps? (and none of this "my camera is broken" crap...everyone has camera phones, or know someone who does)

have you done any reasearch on what is involved with converting both these engines to RWD?

yeah i have AU springs as well the springs are a bit to stiff for the shocks. get a bit bouncy unfortunately.

ahh mr adash i admire your honesty. i like the idea of a straight 6 running on carbys, but not a 7mge and not ke70. i always wanted to get an old 260z/240z and put a modern straight 6 in it. i remember seeing a N/A rb20 in one once, pretty neat looking thing. old school car, with old school fuel delivery technology:P to the OP, why not start with something more suited to a 6cl engine? old celica perhaps? one of those celica/supra things would be awesome with a hot N/A 6clr.

whatver you do don't get sierra shocks! way to short. commondore shocks KYB part number 343113 seem to work well in my car. make sure you keep the spring rate low though.

yeah its pretty tough. especially the first time with new bushes, i assume you got ugraded ones? the first time i did mine i had to use a g-clamp around the diff to pull the panhard rod on.

you can do a pretty good wheel alignment with a 2 x 1M rulers and alot of crawling around on the ground. as the guy above me has said. i even got the adjustable square out and did the camber on my car:P though admitedly thats a bit dodgy. I'm yet to come up with a bush mechanic way of adjusting castor...though I'm sure there is a way. but my way is good enough to get it on the road and driving pretty damn straight. as for your brakes. how long has it been sitting? discs might be rusty, given it a few decent stops to try clean them? is your brake pedal spongy? if so bleed brakes. if its rock hard and no brakes still, then its either stuffed/seized calipers/slave cylinders or somethign funky up with your mastercylinder perhaps. since you only just got the car,the first thing i suggest flushing out all the old brake fluid, putting new fluid in, bleed it up. and then see where you stand interms of brakes working/not working. at least then you know the fundamentals are ok. from my experience mastercylinders don't usually break toooo often, and if they do you will get some fluid out the back running down the boost. i understand they can destroy themselves internally, but you would prolly feel that through the pedal, ie it would be quite soft to push, but nothing would happen in terms of car stopping...

first off, its good to see someone useing some real measuring equipment!!! and not just talking from the butt dyno. 65kw or ~87hp, thats a pretty good number for a bigport yeah? your engine in pretty good nic? interesting that the different ecu didnt make much difference, and its pretty definate result being back to back dyno. you have a few more torques there? but not much i guess. to bad your not in brisbane, would be cool to put my jap 86 ecu on your engine/car, and also run my car up on the same dyno (with both ADM and 86 jap ecu) just to get some proper comparisons. though mine is RWD, yours FWD, but still would have been good to see. maybe you should try and chase down a jap ae86 ecu? even if its just for testing? be very intersting to see what number it pulled. I'm sure some nice 86 owner would let you borrow it in the name of science. also what gear where you in? ie what RPM were the peak torques and kw?