ke70dave

the google toilet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZE7lOy8b3w...player_embedded

just take off the outside drum bit, and check which way makes the shoes spread appart, and which way closes them up....

we are putting the same amount of effort into our posts as you have put into yours. http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/s...rs-into-86-*e7* have a read. i have it in my car, its not that great. its cheap though. and the brakes are nice and big.

they will fit on many places on a ke70 on the boot, on the bonnet, on the front seat, on the rear seat. on the floor?

have you been introduced to the full stop? or the capital letter? when you go and buy things, do not mention the word AE71. if you go and buy a slave cylinder, you ask for a 1983 (or whatever yours is) toyota corolla with a 1.6L engine.

yeah but if i had 30K i sure woudlnt be buying a brand new car! but yeah the mazdas are quite good these days, i went for a spin in the new mazda sp23, leather seats,40 million buttons on the dash, it was a nice place to be. and it doesnt look so bad from the out side, compared to the rukus. AND its not called a RUKUS. problem is new cars are so BIG. big dash, big doors, big wheels, big bonnet, even big engines. yet they still manage 8L/100km. and handle VERY good. imagine if they put the same technology into a car the same size and drivetrain layout as a ke70, damn that would be an awesome

car parts store? repco/bursons? about 40$ retail they are.

oh interseting. sorry thought it was same as 4age. well I'm pretty sure the 4afc and 4age blocks are the same, so it should still be on the exhaust side down the back end somewhere.

yeah i understand that. gota jump off the throttle at the same time of putting it into neutral. so there is little to no load on the gears. and don't let the revs drop tooooo fast when you go for the next gear, or its a bit clunky on the way in. which is the same deal, tryint to match them up so that when they mesh there isnt any load on the gears. do you know what is going on in a gearbox when gears magically "fall out" of gear? my mates old celica used to be terrible in 2th, was forever going into neutral by itself (resulting in the engine hitting the limiter if you didnt notice in time). had to hold it in by hand all the time.

not sure, but its just near the starter motor.

its down behind your exhaust manifold, right at the back of the block, below the cylinder 4 exhaust ports.

It's the question, Neo. It's the question that drives us. It's the question that brought you here. You know the question, just as I did. hehe oh i love that movie. annoying part about all the information in the FAQ is that it doesnt get read much, evidently (not in reference to this thread, fairly general statement). stacks of good info though thats for sure.

yeah but such a document may be 400 pages long. for example fuel systems arent specific to any sort of engine setup, so they shoudlnt be lumped with the "turbo K motors". with this type of thing its not such a matter of knowing what parts to use, its understanding why things are used. understanding how a fuel pressure regulator works is going to be much more usefull than just knowing that "*so and so* uses this regulator so therefor it must be right" adding a turbo to a car that never came with one isnt exactly an easy task, its essentially reinventing the wheel for that engine, custom parts everywhere. especially something like a K motor which in reality doesnt lend it self very well to being turbod (a 1.3L pushrod bullet proof slow as thing in standard form), its just such a simple engine that adding the extra bits for the turbo is fairly *easy*. i don't know if you can really expect the people in the know to just spoon feed the information (for lack of a better word). this is why members rides are a good idea, showing off what people have done to their cars to give others ideas and motivation to do theirs as well. seems to be a bit of a problem lately where people just want easy answers and arent really interested in actually understanding what they are adding to their cars. ive had a look through taz's members ride, and there is so much information in there. and with good pictures too.

ive not done anything like this before, but to me it seems that it may be easier to fabricate up new suspension mounting points (out of square section steel, almost like "tubed chassis" style) rather than try and combine 2 differnet floor plans together. you would need to re-arrange the rear end of the corolla to be able to physically fit the diff under there, which may involve fabricating up a whole new rear end. flooplan, mounts, rear suspension..the list goes on. and also make way for the tailshaft. a 5 link rear end has the beauty that so long as the mounting points are in the right place, then the diff will happily work in there so long as there is enough room. so you can do whatever you want to get the mounting points in the right place, and its not limited to combining floor plans. if you were trying to shoe-horn an IRS drive setup it may be some what more difficult, though i guess you could try and transplant the entire cradle in there (like the infamous s13 rear end into a sprinter) but you would still need some decent reinforcement on the mounting points. either way its going to be a pretty serious task, and its not just the fabrication that will be hard, actually working out where all the suspension geometry goes wont be eay (thats an entirely different subject, with hundreds of books around trying to explain it). the car may end up being 4wd at the end, but if it is all setup wrong, it will be pretty terrible to drive.

no worries mate. oh and welcome to the forum. not many of us around here are pioneers, we just copy what otheres have done. least you know it will work then :rolls:

read through the wikipedia article on Corolla. noting the names of the engines used in the models. any engine with an A in it will bolt into your car (the engine block that is, dunno about gearboxes, I'm into RWD cars) 4ac, 4age, 4afe, 7afe,7afc. (unsure if 7afc exists, maybe somewhere...) 20V is the late model 4age engine (read the wiki for 4age as well). only comes in import corollas, which is why you buy a halfcut from an engine importer. i think you had better spend the rest of the day reading the internet, plenty of info around, especailly in members rides threads. see what others have done etc.

one thread at a time hey mate:P nothing wrong with the 91 hatches, ae92 i assume? hatches look much cooler than the seca's so your one up there! so you don't want to do an engine swap, yet in the other thread your considering an AWD transplant? I'm confused.... get a 20V halfcut and bolt it all in, thats how you will get it moving;) maybe wait till you get the car, to find out what needs doing first. if it is the injected version then it will have a bit of poke (4afe) if its the 4afc it may be a tad slow...but they are still twincam so it wont be that slow. and if its the SX youll have the oh so loved 16V 4age smallport. which should go pretty quick already. twincam.info (i think the forum is called, or maybe twincam.org) is all about these cars (FWD corollas), so have a look over there too.

anything is possibly with the skills and some time, and a decent welder. are SR5's independant rear or live axel?

yeah you need the apron from the flat front. the slanty front sits out a fair bit further than the flat front, and the slanty front apron has these extensions that push it further away from the radiator support. the apron prolly sits around 100mm further out than the flat front one. not sure if you can modify the slanty front one to work, unsure what happends at the guard ends, id say it would be different though.

sad you have to sell it mate, must be a hard decision! if i had the cash id be on it, nothing to do just enjoy driving it. what about a BMW? pain in the wallet to fix, but i hear they are a drivers car. bit heavy though, make sure you don't get the 1.8L versions... i want to get an E46 one day. prolly the nicest looking car in its price range.

i was under the imprssion that if you match the revs well (say 3rd to 2nd, having to blip it up a bit) then the synchos don't have anything to synchronise. thus they arent doing any work. also explains why it changes easier on my poor 2nd gear syncho, since it doesnt have to work as hard. or something... changing gears by just slamming it into gear (no rev match, and no clutch) will destroy synchos. as you are trying to speed up the engine with your syncho! and since thats not possibly, lots of grinding occurs. does anyone else get really frustrated when they are driving with someone who is a serial clutch rider? not letting clutch out at the right time on upshifts, and jumping on the accelerator too quick. riding the clutch to keep the car "still" on a hill.

yeah i pretty much found the same thing that you found. i put a nikki on a stocko 4k a few years ago. it sounded great, went fine. but I'm not sure if it actually went any faster. engine seemed to breath better though. but it could all be an illusion from the epic induction noise.

though can help with a half stuffed syncho. my gearbox doesnt like goin from 3rd to 2nd some times. bit of rev matching and some clutch action and it goes in alright. other than that its a pain in the...leg to double clutch all day. clutching once with a HD clutch is enough thankyou. what is good fun is trying to change gears without the clutch at all! just if your grinding to much give it a rest for while.

in reality that front mount cold air thing is probably not such a bad idea. of all the mods in that link its prolly the one with the most "usefullness" behind it. i had a good laugh at all the pics though, some very interesting concepts there.... amazing that someone has completed those "mods" and stepped back and said "you know what, that looks good"

make sure you temp guage is working too... i know its a silly suggestion but i thought my car was overheating, the temp was goin up and down with what i thought was revs. i changed water pump, thermostat, new coolant, flushed everything almost bought a new radiator... but turned out i had a loose connection and when i reved it i guess the extra oomf of the engine cause the wire to short on the chassis, causing my temp gauge to go up. fixed up that wire, and all of a sudden my car didnt overheat. give it a compression test and possibly a leak down test, just to check out that headgasket.