ke70dave

On a K motor you can have the head off in 30mins, spend a few hrs with degreaser on all the valves and the top of the pistson, a $50 head gasket put it back together and it will probably run better than ever.

Becareful coming all guns blazing.....I am all for good discussions, but you might put people off:) I've never heard of anyone say engine run on is because of advanced timing, like you say the second you turn off the key the spark plugs stop. The most obvious cause of engine run on is when the engine is so full of burnt carbon that the carbon stays hot enough to ignite the fuel mixture that is still being drawn through the carby. And this is either caused by residual fuel between the carby and engine, or that fuel solenoid valve sticking on. Running a heap of "seafoam" or "subaru upper cylidner head cleaner" through the engine will take care of this carbon and put an end to the running-on issue. All my engines have always had the head off and cleaned early in my ownership and ive never had any dieseling issues. In fact all the years playing with carby engines ive never had dieseling issues. The only time ive ever seen it is on engines that are completely stuffed and is a miracle they run at all. Maybe prolonged used of overly advanced timing causes excessive carbon build up? Maybe that's where the myth comes from. Never ever heard of it myself though.

Idle is a special case really. Idle is the most difficult time for an engine. strangled to within an inch of not running at all. Emissions aside, your air fuel ratio at idle is based on achieving the best idle possible, if this happens to be a tad rich (which it usually is) then so be it.

The amount of shops that now have zero stock is astonishing. And the worse ones are the ones that make you come in and pay 100% up front, then they order it in, then you have to go back and pick it up when it comes in. 2 trips to the same shop 4 days apart. Alternatively i click buy on the internet at 9pm in my underpants and it arrives 3 days later to my house.

hard to tell from that video but if the clutch feels fine under the foot and the car drives aright probably some guard or something vibrating.

yer keen on jeep pics Those spark plugs are crazy long. I thought the image was distorted.

Michelin eh, i will look into them. Thanks for the suggestion.

Remember that king springs will make any spring you like for about $200/pair. Specify length, rate and internal diamter at both ends and they will make them for you. I did this years ago with coil over springs for the ke70. So don't feel like you are locked into ke20 lovel springs or whatever. Depends how serious you wanna get, but whats to stop you welding a bigger strut tube onto the ke20 base? then you can fit any shock you like that fits an ae86 or whatever, all kinds of options.

hah well the ke70 was probably also about 30% of the price of an e30 and it has about 10% of the performance :P Next thing on the list is cup holders. I think i will design something up in autocad and get it 3d printed by a mate, damn car has no cup holders! I cant keep driving 258km per day without a cup holder. I actually put those wheels up for sale a few weeks back to test the waters, not even a nibble, though maybe the price was a bit high...... They are just too damn agressive for daily driving. So i might just put them aside for now and just get some new tyres for the 14" wheels. There are just limited options in 14" and the few good options are damn expensive. I did get some el cheapo hankook k415 something for the front a few months back, for 80bucks each its hard to complain, might just get them for the rear too. If anyone has any leads on decentish 14" tyres that wont break the bank i would be interested in hearing from you.

The 323i coupe is 80% of the car of a 325i coupe and like 20% the cost. My auto 323i was $1700:) mine is an early model chrome bumper model, i suppose if you want the late rmodel plastic bumpers (which admittedly do look pretty good) you will be paying a few dollars. I'm pretty sure the m44 is still cable. Wasn't until the early 2000's they all went to electronic throttle.

Plenty of rb25dets in ke70s, so i dont see why an m20b25 wont fit. I have an m20b23 and a 5 speed gearbox in pieces at home if you want dimensions. Its pretty much the same as an m20b25, slightly smaller bore. I've got a 323i e30 and i do agree the m20b25 would be fun BUT the e30 is a much better can than the ke70 in basically all aspects. I would just buy an e30... All of the stuffing around to put it in a ke70 (custom mounts for engine and gbox, wiring, tailshaft) you would end up with a car that is much worse than an e30 in every conceivable way, and you will probably have spent more than what a complete e30 costs. E30 already has disc brakes from factoy and much more superior suspension out of the box. You would need to upgrade the ke70 brakes to match the engine at the very least which is a costly exercise in itself. Also the whole LSD issue on a ke70 is very costly to get around. E30 LSDs were an option so they float about for around 800bucks ready to go. A better option for the ke70 would be an M44 from an e36. 4clr 1.9L twin cam. Dirty cheap and quite a nice refined motor. Basically a bigger 4age. also, looky what i found.

I Thought the more efficient an engjne is at mixing fuel and air the less timing it needs to make the same amount of power? Something like that. Newer engines need less timing than old engines.

But where is the fun in that? Every engineer knows that Engineers can do all things better than every "professional" even if it takes 10times as long and never is quite right:p

Checked the forum when i woke up this morning at 4am, woke the wife up with an uncontrolled blurt of laughter.

I agree with your comments but this is kind of getting out of hand. Reality is, in general, your coolant system should not go more than ~10degrees higher than the number stamped on your thermostat. If it does go higher somethhng is either stuffed in the coolant system or your cooling system is not up to the task of cooling your motor. My vdo temp gauge gradually climbs to 82degrees amd sits there rock solid all day everyday wether it is 10degrees outside or 45degrees. Funnily enough its an 82deg thermostat. That's how it supposed to work. More modern cars do run alot hotter and even 100degC doesnt seem out of the question and maybe the glycol thing does have an effect but anything in 1980s should be around 80degC or whatever the thermostat is. Put it this way. If a modern car lost all its coolant and I filled it up with only water to get home I would expect it to work perfectly fine.

Id personally put wider tyres on, but they will probably hit the strut!

Its a trade off, although glycol provides "anti boil over" properties, in the form of a higher vapour pressure, it actually reduces the heat capacity of the working fluid. So the glycol wont boil as easily but it wont move as much heat before it does boil. Specific heat capacity is the number in question here, water - 4.2 J/g/c , Glycol - 2.2 J/g/c The units being joules per gram per degree celcius. Essentially how much energy it takes to heat one gram of lyquid up by 1 degree. Glycol can only take aproximately 50% of the amount of energy as water for the same temperature change. essentially the glycol can transmit less energy for a given temperature increase.. I would think that your 10% "worse" figure should be around 50% worse based purely on the specific heat values. If you can find that technical engineering thesis i would be interested. The difference between "cooalnt" and water is negligable. I have straight water in my bmw at the moment, (really should put in coolant) and it handles the heat just fine. Race cars use straight water so that if their coolant system explodes they don't leave shit all over the track. Saying "shows how bad straight water is" does not stack up. Here is nice summary, http://www.hotrod.com/articles/glycol-or-water-coolant/

Well time goes on, Our son was born 11th of October, 1 week over due. hes been kick goals ever since, coming up on 4 weeks old yeserday, time flies! So not alot of work done on the ol' bmw at all. I have got a new job about 1 month ago and Im being paid a car allowance so the car is getting approximately 1260km/week at the moment. never misses a beat and the best fuel economy ive gotten now is 7.22L/100km! better than the wifes forestor! pure highway up and down the sunshine coast with the AC cranked. If this job keeps up i might buy a work ute or something and retire the BMW from daily duties, but for now its going great. I actually prefer to drive the bmw than the forester.BMW must have loads of sound deadening and tight seals so apart from the low frequency exhaust noise there is hardly any noise inside the cabin at all. Forester has alot of wind and road noise. I did purchase a second hand megasquirt from a mate of mine, the same MS i have played with all these years on rotaries. I've purchased the plugs to make an adapter loom and thats where that project has sat for 4 weeks:P I have also purchased replacement bonnet, drivers door and guards, will try and pick up an air compressor and see about spray painting those the correct color. the bonnet is blue and the guards and bonnet are red. I suppose i could be a patriotic american for a while... Still undecided what to do with suspension, Im leaning towards getting oem replacement bilstein shocks and keeping the factory springs. Given how much highway i am doing and how little hoon driving i do i think that is the best option, about 700 for a set of 4. later i can up the spring rate and by internet accounts the bilsteins will handle it. It does have the "mtech" suspension already which is slightly stiffer and slightly lower than standard, so perhaps they will be a good fit. Not to mention how much time i don't have to be developing suspension.... At some stage i would like to buy a 4 door e30 and get it on the road. The coupe is cool but like all coupes not the most useful thing with daily life and kids. As the little one gets a bit older might be useful to have 4 doors. 4 doors are worth alot less than 2 doors so i reckon i could get a pretty good condition one for pretty cheap. As long as the body and paint is good all the rest i can easily fix. Then i could probably sell the coupe and make a few dollars if i ever get it painted.

Yer as much as it goes against my engineering "wisdom" there's nothung wrong with slapping a 10mm hub centric spacer on as long as the bolts are long enough. Make them fit a bit better too. How are you measuring the width? Between the beads I hope? Not over all width. That is a bit close for my liking.

How long do you want the project to last? I spent about 10k on my ke70. But over abkur 4yrs. Started 100%stock and finished id say extensively modified. Never once had it off the road. Upgrade things over time. Enjoy driving it for what it is and develop the car. Sooo mant people have a project cat in the shed, spend 10k in 1yr never driver it, get disheartened and part it out. Each to their own but cars are meant to be driven not sat in the corner with a load of parts piled up.

Oh i thought it said 14x9 -7. Got around the wrong way. 14x7 -9. Will be close. I think you will be rolling guards even with 185s What suspension you gomma run?

No chance they will fit mate.

4age 20v silver top. Import only engine in Australia. I dont believe most auto shops will list it. It wilk be the same as some other engine. Someone more knowledgable than me will chime in hopefully (littleredspirit where are you????)

The only way to ensure you fix it propely is to go through the procedure for them all and re check them all. On a 4k it doesnt get any easier. My dad always taught me to adjust in pairs. 1 and 4 are a pair, and 2 and 3 are pair. When #4 is "on the rock", ie exhaust valve just closing and intake valve is just opening, #1 can be adjusted. When #4 on the rock, adjust number 1. When #3 on the rock, adjust number 2 When #2 on the rock, adjust number 3. With this method there is no counting revolutions or any counting bullshit. Just keep spinning the engine watching the valves go up and down. And of you miss it, just keep spinning the engine by hand and go around again. Removing the plugs will make life easier but its a tiny engine you dont have much compression to deal with anyway.

Brand new? Doubt you will find one unless its custom made $$ Do you have one already? Cause you can have them refurbished.