ke70dave

All of the photobucket photos are dead now unfortunately. It has broken the internet. Someone may be able to chime in to this thread, though im not sure how many AE92 owners we have these days.

Ah i remember this project. Probably one of the coolest projects on rollaclub!

Your car had plenty of go when i drove it whenever that was, anything on top of that will be a bonus. Just thinking out aloud but how is the gearing? is it worth looking into a close ratio set of gears for your gearbox? Might be a way to go faster with the same horsepower.

Dunno your location, but plenty of proper brake shops will rebuild any mastercylinder with custom made parts. Theres a shop i use in wynnum brisbane Australia called "master cylinder exchange". They machine the inside of the cylinder, insert a stainless steel sleeve, machine up a new pison or reco the old one and then put in all new seals. I do not belive they use seal kits, rather just machine the items to suit off the shelf seals. Ive had a number of calipers done there anda couple of mastercylinders. You do pay for it though, around $250 for a mastercylinder reco last time. But its better than new. Any kind of rust in the piston/sleave is a big red flag that it should not be used without some attention. and with rust you really do need to machine the surface flat. Cleaning witih vinegar or the likes really isnt good enough. Remember the masteryclinder is directly responsible for the brakes working in your car...

thanks matty. Well update is, I finished the loom and it is all tested, all the injectors work and all the sensor connections - tps, coolant temp, air temp all work. I wired in the CAS wiring using some microphone cable from Jaycar. I connected it up to the CAS on the engine and the CAS works and gives the correct RPM. so i got the CAS settings correct. Its a late model CAS and the early engine doesnt use it so i can start the engine on old ECU to test the CAS. I have made a little diy fuse and relay box, even 3D printed up a holder for all 3 relays (no photo unfortunately). It should work out quite well. I tried to use the stocko wiring but its just too old school and the relays are all genuine BMW things, which admitedly will probably never break, but if they do.....they are very expensive. so im using automotive relays from Jaycar, which may not last as long (10yrs vs 30yrs), but they are cheap to replace. I have put 3 relays in, fuel pump, EFI (ecu and injetors) and wide band 02 sensor. little fuse box thing has 5 fuses i think couple of spares for anything else i want to wire in.... After looking at your spot liight install i might install some myself... And this all happened 4 weeks ago and nothing has happened since. little fella is growing up fast and im currently working in lismore...

Do the doors unlock when you turn ignition off? I had an alarm that did that. It was advertised as an anti car jacking featute.

Welcome welcome, GT-S hey. What country are you in?

Sounds like you are onto it. My DIY installs have always just had, - Interface with central locking so you get remote central locking (main reason to install an alarm!). This is often a +12 signale for unlock on one wire, and a +12 signal for lock on another wire. looks like green and orange on your drawing. - Door intrusion, as discussed - Bonnet intrusion (if you dont have a battery backup in your siren then someone could potentially disconnect your battery to disable the alarm) - Boot lid - someone may be able to shoehorn it open? often there is a switch already for the boot light. - Vibration - often the vibration sensor is built into the control module - or its a separate little doovy that gets attached to the chassis somewhere - generally the steering column) - Blinkers or Parkers - for flashers for visual alarm and also so you look badass when you lock and unlock in the coles carpark - Siren - often has its own loom from the control box - Ignition +12 - indication that someone has somehow got into the car without setting off the door alarms and have also somehow got the ignition on. realistically the alarm should already be blaring if someone has gotten into the car after the alarm has been armed. The item that has always given me trouble is the vibration sensor. Loud cars would set it off, high wind, heavy rain, felt like anything would set the damn thing off to the point where I cranked the sensitivity to the maximum on most installs. Probably would only go off if hit by a truck. Don't be that guy in the street who's alarm keeps going off when a butterfly lands on the car!

I put an alarm in the old ke70, and the door switches were all looped together and when you opened the door the spring grounded the wire to the body. So i'm pretty sure you connect it to door negative input. I've put a few alarms in over the years and i'm pretty sure most cars would be door negative. if you have 1 wire going to the door switches then it would be door negative, if you have two wires it might be positive or negative. I think i just connected the wire directly to one of the door switches in the ke70. The key to retrofitting alarms is the installation. Absolutely nothing worse than an alarm that plays up because of poor wiring connections. Immobilizers that dont work, at midnight, in the rain, when the wife is tired, and the baby is crying. Gawd could you think of anything worse.

Unfortunately with these types of things the only way is to get a multi meter and start poking around trying to work out how the Toyota system works and then figure out how to implement the alarm into it. It looks like you only have one output for the blinkers. Most setups require 2 outputs, one to each blinker (left and right). You can just connect it to the parkers though, same effect.

The poor mans version is just cut some holes and put some rubber flaps on with screws only at the top so they can flap open at the bottom. In fact i swear ive seen some OEM fan shrouds with rubber flaps. I should probably look at removing the hydraulic fan on my bmw and putting in an electric fan, its so damn noisy all the time and definately eats horsepower. I think once i get this megasquirt going will just use an output from it to drive the fan on and off But working in lismore and working today is not helping that happen :(

some of the more "advanced" fan shrouds have rubber flaps over holes in the shrouds or even plastic flaps on hinges. so when the car is not moving the fan pulls a small vacuum between the radiator and shroud and keeps the flaps closed to pull as much air through the radiator. but when you start moving and there is more air flow than the fan is pulling then the flaps open. exhibit A: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3990/PageID/9619/Project-Viper-GTS-Part-5--Radiator-Fan-Wiring-Upgrade.aspx

I have a solution to all of your problems. Run it on nitro-methane.

Do_eet. We all love to hate, but hey a project is a project. Get the welder out:D

What's actually wrong with the 3k? Just cause you can get an engine is not a good enough reason to install it. Have you considered the mods required to for a 20r? Custom engine mounts, gbox mounts and tailshaft at a minimum. Also it is way too old and truck like to be any kind of fun in a ke30. Realty is you should put a 5k in it:)

$0 looks about the right price:p

When it comes to sizing, what is also important, which i only discovered recently, is that the little foot that protrudes out of the thermostat also needs to be the same diameter as oem and it needs to protrude the same distance in order to block off the passage way behind the thermostat. your drawings above don't have these dimensions. You know engines run more efficiently the hotter they are?

That's not how a thermostat works. The thermostat aims to regulate the temperature of the cooling system to the temperature stamped on it. First step is to put your thermostat in a pot of boiling water to prove it works. You should see it open relatively quickly once you dump it in the water. If you are having overheating issues when "pushing the engine" its not the thermostat. If the thermostat is working as it should it will be fully open when you are overheating. and if you are overheating with a working thermostat then your options for overheating are clogged radiator, dodgy water pump or head gasket. Removing or modifying a thermostat is not the solution to overheating problems.

What are you trying to achieve? What's wrong with the thermostat that was designed for your engine.

Cool.

They will be tight. you need proper spanners. Shifting spanners will round those nuts very fast.

You have been busy. I thought there were people around that made custom cables for relatively cheap prices.

Time for an arduino them, 2 x any temp sensors you like, basic arduino, 16x2 screen, 2 relays on the outputs. Bit of coding. I made something similar yrs ago.

http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/483/switches-and-sensors/2014/thermo-fan-switches You can buy 2 stage temp sensors for this exact purpose. There is a couple listed from tridon.

One of these days ill have a sprite. Damn cool cars.