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Everything posted by ke70dave
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Been watching mighty car mods have we? Ke55 is a tiny car. I'd stick with a 4clr. People have trouble fitting the height of a bara into much bigger cars.i dont have any experience but it would not surprise me If you need to fabricated a new transmission tunnel and use a huge bonnet scoop just to physically fit it in.
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Get friendly with the assessor and find the point for maximum pay out without writing off the car then get it fixed your self. This will depend on weather your car is insured for fixed amount or market value. Keep in mind they are in the business of writing off old cars cause it is way easier for them. If you dont have agreed value fully comp insurance, unfortunately it is unlikely you will come out ahead. The car is an old junker in the insurance eyes.
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I put one a vdo one on a 4k. I don't recall having any issues. The threads are all standard sizes. Worst case you'll just have to get a threaded reducing bush. M12 to m10 or something. I only said vdo cause they are a known brand and are dirty cheap. And the gauges look fairly OEM. On my old ke70 I put the vdo temp gauge inside the cluster where the old temp gauge was. Just hacked it up and stuck it in. Looked factory. Any gauge with numbers is the go. Like banjo suggests even a $10 jobby will do! I'm a sucker for data so I always put a proper temp gauge in my old cars. Gives me something to stare at in stop start traffic.
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A $50 vdo temp gauge is worth its weight in gold.
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Yah but you can use the 60-2 on the crank. Then just reduce the VR trigger in the electronic distributor to 1 pulse per 720deg. This does not need to be 100% accurate. So gear slop isnt that big of a concern. And use this as your reset. This will get you full sequential:) Or didnt taz on here adapt a Nissan cas to his 4k? That looked quite neat. Unsure on what trigger he got out of that.
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If I were you I'd make a toothed wheel, bolt it to the crank and then run wasted spark.
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I think you need to determine which signal your chosen "Ecu" accepts and work backwards. I've got a VR sensor on my megasquirt. is working flawlessly, but some people have trouble with them as they generate higher and higher voltage the faster the engine goes. Assuming your ecu will run a VR sensor you can get bosch sensors off the E30, or various other cars. If it were me i would get a 62 tooth wheel laser cut to the same tooth profile as e30 bosch and remove 2 teeth to mimic the 60-2 tooth wheel that is on many many european cars with bosch systems. then at least you have a known starting point. the above 60-2 tooth wheel will enable you to run wasted spark and (if you want) semi sequential fuel injection. this requires 2 spark outputs and 2 fuel injection outputs. If you want full sequential you will also need a sensor on your camshaft as a reset. so the engine knows which 360 degree cycle it is on out of the two in a total of 720. I think the e30 guys use VR sensors for this too. But you will need an an additional sensor input as well as the coding in your chosen ecu to make this work. Will also require 4 ignition outputs.
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Very cool project. I've just done full megasquirt install with custom triggering on my e30 so my knowledge may be of use. How do you intend on controlling all of this?
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That thing is stuffed. And I'd bet will never see the road again.
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I'm not convinced they sell either. We only ever see the advertised price, not the amount that was actually handed over. In saying that i think buyers these days have alot of access to easy credit, so they are more able to buy these things for high prices. When i finished uni i immediately got a 20k loan and bought the first S15 Silvia i found. I overpaid but i didn't lose any money cause 9 months later i sold it to a guy that over paid too:)
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Ae86s were somewhat affordable only 8-10yrs ago. I went and checked out an import Trueno notchback with all the things in about 2012. Lsd, rear discs, suspension, AC, 4age. And he wanted 11k complied and regod. Dunno what someone would want for it now. Probably 25k
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Haha yep. That was back when wreckers were full of 3ks and 4ks. These days you'd be lucky to find any. Though i made the mistake of not putting the 4k jets in the 3k carby. It ran fine but i reckon it was a bit lean up top. 1.2L vs 1.3L not much difference but i think enough to require bigger jets in the 3k carby.
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You would have to get a very savy cop to even know what a vacuum line was! In my limited experience the 3k and 4k carbies are different. the 3k one has like 2 vaccum ports and the 4k has about eleventy billion. I put a 3k carby on my 4k years ago to remove all the vac lines, looked factory cause it was:)
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Only way to learn is to pull them out and investigate. It's only a couple of bolts to remove them. take them out, throw up some photos and we can comment.
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got any photos of them before you put them in? I reckon thy have adapted camber plates to shocks and they don't quite fit properly., explains the knocking and oddball fasteners used. I had to machine some spacers to make some camber tops fit some shocks i had in my DIY coilovers.
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ok updates! Got a new job in brisbane, 9-5 no more living away from home! In my 1 week off i got the megasquirt installed, running and quite well tuned. I purchased tuner studio for the auto tune feature which turned out to be incredible. worked very well. I used an m20b25 map that i found somewhere. Engine started 2nd go and after about 1hr of driving around on the auto tune we had a tune that is quite good. I have been working on the acceleration enrichment lately which is a bit more tricky but seems to be working well. Cold start needs some work too but it generally starts first time, it just needs some acceleration to keep it going. I am not running any sort of idle control at all so that doesnt help. Might have to try and implement something one day. Once it has been running for 20seconds id idles perfectly at ~900rpm. I have only got it running on fuel at the moment, hoping to go to the wreckers on saturday and get the bits anmd pieces to run the commondore v6 coils. Over 300kms of driving i have gotten 9.8L/100km fuel economy. Probably half highway and half hooning about in high load areas. So i think we are in for some very good economy. Engine driveability is much improved, drives like a different car really. Downside is my AC has stopped working. Looks like all my gas has leaked out somewhere....
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Pics k go
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Ah I didn't see your message there mate. what do you mean by that? I think they have both normally on and normally off contacts. I intend on using them as normally off. Nothing to report at all really, car has hardly been driven in 6 months, maybe 400km max. However i've just been made redundant from this job at lismore (as its basically finished). So last weekend I dug out the car and got it ready for daily duties again. (work ute gone!). I'm not sure if i mentioned it previously but i have had some tailshaft issues. I started to develop a vibration between 2000-3000rpm before christmas last year. over christmas i installed a new centre support bearing and rubber bush. Which unfortunately didnt really help. The old one didn't look that bad but i replaced it anyway. Fast forward to about a month ago and i decided to remove the tailshaft and take it to get balanced. Hardy spicer in Eagle farm did the balancing. it was out of balance a bit, so they balanced it. Put it back into the car two weeks ago and the vibration was still there! Though much reduced. Started reading on the internets and they mentioned the idea of putting preload on the centre support bearing. Sure enough i dug out the workshop manual for the bmw and it mentions that once you put the tail shaft in, you push the center support bearing slightly forward (~5mm) then tighten up the hold down bolts on the center support bearing. Vibration gone! Its always the smallest of things. So gave it a wash, put armor all on all the exterior plastic to make it look good for another few weeks, and it even got a vaccum. Took it for a fairly long drive up and down the highway and it just pured along like it should. never driven better to be honest. great fun. With the loss of job i think purchases will be limited for a while. Shock absorbers are definately next on the list, but they are fine for now. Fronts are definitely worn, rears seem to be passable for the time being. Megasquirt loom might have to come out of the cardboard box and actually be installed one of these days... I am looking for any work....so if anyone knows anything...Brisbane Southside.
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Not much comment from me but Im enjoying reading the updates. I've finished up in lismore as of next Friday. So i've got ample free time for a road trip if keen. BMW vs Toyota! My poor BMW has done around 200km for the whole year!
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Got any photos? People have been putting those engines into cars since those engines existed. there wont be a plug and play solution but i cant imagine it being very difficult. Pretty agricultural motors those ecotechs.
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Nothing is impossible. the nissan s13 clutch pedal its its own pedal assembly. and im sure there are many cars around like it. I would have thought you could just get one and screw it to the carina firewall. go searching at the wreckers for something that might fit. drill some holes and your done. Looks like thatt red wire goes through where the clutch pedal goes. something would fit there or it would be pretty close:)
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I think i got it the wrong way around but the purpose of the fuel pressure regulator is to keep the pressure drop the same across the injector with changes in vacuum. at wide open throttle you have pretty much zero pressure in the inlet manifold. but at idle you have low pressure (vacuum) in the inlet manifold. so in order to keep the same pressure drop across the fuel injector the fuel pressure reduces at higher vacuum....i think thats it... so you might have 32psi or so at idle, then when you stab the throttle it jumps up to 38-40psi.
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And it should get lower when vacuum drops.
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Just came across this thread, great work so far. Given the age and where it had been sitting that car is in great shape! nice to see it being brought back to life. Those vinyl seats look really good. As for the smell. hows the hood lining? and what is living in the vents system?