ke70dave

Eccentric bolts on the lower control arm might be enough to pull it in. You can buy them new. but just have to work out a way to make sure they stay still. and probably have to do a bit of cross referencing to find something that will fit. 1.8 is high but it isn't extreme, if you can get it down to about 1 degree or so, that's not to bad. most cars run a bit of front negative camber by default these days. Or camber tops is the best way to go as above but they can be costly.

haha, what is going on in here. Mate you used to post about once every 5 minutes. I havent even owned a ke70 since 2011..did have a ae112 for a year in 2013...which isnt that long ago is it? Where has the time gone. here's some memories for you....id sold my ke70 by this. I sold that wrx in 2014... Ah found one with a photos of my ke70. 2010!

Yup, but in all my renos I haven't really had much chance to use it. but its ready to go if ever needed. We can both figure out how to use it hah

If you need to use a lathe you are welcome to drop into my place. Ive got a small one hiding in the garage.

Good to see you've still got it. I hope life is treating you well up north:)

Rebuild the carby, don't go replacing it with an oddball carb. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/223140575858

Well apparently 3yrs has gone by. And to be honest basically nothing has changed. AC still works great, mega squirt has been totally reliable. haven't touched the tune for years now. starts immediately every time. Although I did relocate the battery to the boot as above, and this allowed me to really tidy up the engine bay. The coils now site where the battery was and alot of the wiring was able to be tided up Car gets out most weeks for a drive or two, I take it to coffee and cars every month, and euro day at lakeside raceway every few months. House renos have taken priority as one would expect and kids activities on the weekend, but the car is always ready to drive on the key if the opportunity arises if only for a trip to Bunnings to buy more plaster screws..... Heres a photo from the last coffee and cars. If you look up the rego on that rusty truck its actually a nissan patrol, body swapped with whatever that truck is. super cool. the variety at coffee and cars is pretty nice.

yer i'm advocate for finding a decent 4age car already. you really need a smashed complete car to do an engine swap properly. loom, ecu, gearbox, drive shafts, brakes (your car prolly has drum brakes rear, 4age cars have rear disc rear brakes). My mate and I did it on a celica years ago, swapped a 3sge and everything over from a smashed "SX" into a 3sfe car. It was quite the job. worth it in this case as we did have a smashed complete car to get all the bits off, but it was basically rebuilding an entire car. I have seen some super nice ae92 SX and GTIs for sale for not much money lately, like 5k. The other issue is all these engines and parts are getting old, so if you try and piece it all together you'll have a hard time finding stuff, and when you do it probably needs to be reconditioned anyway. at least if its a running complete car there's a good chance most of the things will be in good condition. These cars are so old now they don't even want them at the wreckers.

Yeah I saw a GR corolla the other day, I wasn't too impressed with the looks. The GR Yaris is similar but I dunno, seems to wear its ridiculous looks better. The Corolla looked a bit too try hard. Not to mention how much is a GR corolla worth? 65k! hah, I'm not paying that for a corolla. Save up a bit more and you can get an older Porsche!

That would do it, but what good is money if you cant spend it on hooning about on dirt roads. and you've got to live up to that display picture...

Razorback! that is a name I haven't heard for a long time. I remember meeting the guy who made them, a lonnnngg time ago. I found some posts from about 2006 on some forums on a google, and yep that's about when I met him. Bought some parts off him for my 4age ke70, way back when. https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2077 Unless you can figure out the razorback yourself I think its not really worth pursuing - and without it being in front of me theres not much I can do to help. Piggy back ecus have always been a bit iffy, lots of guessing that whilst in the day the razorback was a neat bit of kit, without support (is there even still a website? manuals? I cant find any) it might be a bit hard to get anywhere. how do you tune it? does it have a hand controller? Is it still running a map sensor? if so is it suitable for positive pressure? (for your turbo). Something like a Haltech platinum sprint 500 might be worth looking at, they can be had real cheap second hand - couple of hundred bucks . very basic ecu these days, but more than enough to run a 4age. But you'll need to make a new loom, which would really tidy things up - but again, 4age is quite simple. How are you triggering the oem ecu? The bigport and smallport distributors and trigger patterns are wildly different. If you are getting spark of some description, and not getting any life out of it with starter spray that tells me that the ignition timing is miles out. id get a timing light, put it on injector one and see where its firing in regards to top dead centre. should be about 10 degrees before top dead Centre whilst starting. Where do you live?

Just because its not listed on a catalogue doesnt mean a reputable piston manufacturer cant make it for you. custom pistons can be had. As an example - https://www.wiseco.com/custom-pistons/

I don't understand why these potatoes don't just edit their old posts...I did - but I'm no potato.

To be fair no-one ever fixes anything on the side of the road now. Even flat tyres people get towed away as they cant change it, and the racq ppl wont change it on the side of the road as its too dangerous. My dad always likes to tell the story when he had an old 70s corona and it overheated but dad was happy to limp it home, and the Racq guy who happened to stop wouldn't give him water to put in the car. Wouldn't do anything other than tow him for fear of litigation I suppose. and this was 30yrs ago! I remember us waiting in the car and dad walking off to find some water. but he did made it back with 4L of water and he got the car home. And I mean, I like fixing stuff, but if my 2015 dmax doesn't start, buggered if i know what I'm going to do on the side of the road. Apart form checking the fuses, I'm out of ideas haha.

But all the tesla evangelists have been telling me that EV cars don't require maintenance.... Family member of ours has a tesla model y and had a small incident where they rubbed the quarter panel up against a post in a carpark. turns out there is like 3 tesla approved repair shops in Brisbane. Took them 4 months before anyone was even available to have a look at it to quote/order parts, let alone do the work.

I reckon the closer to 2030 and 35 we get the more watered down the UKs rules will get. I think public opinion of EVs is changing, all those early adopters have already bought one, everyone else doesn't want one or cant afford one. Lots of commentary in the USA on how they cant move used EVs off the 2nd hand lots as everyone knows they have costly risks associated, replacement battery costs etc, and you cant fix them yourself really, far as I can tell all the parts for teslas somewhat restricted to dealers etc. not to mention would you want to to try and fix them yourself, its like fixing an i-phone, possible but the change of bricking it is high and then you really are on your own as they prolly wont help you if you touch it. Everyone in AUS seems to get an elec car on leases as they have the tax incentive, and you can give it back before it needs any real maintenance.....im as DIY as it gets and I'm not lining up to buy a cheap tesla as its locked down and I cant even fix if I tried. One false move and the thing will brick itself in my driveway. The laws you suggest basically knock out an entire auto repair industry. people aren't going to like that. and how they can justify such things on the basis of environmental baffles the mind. Crushing fixable cars, moronic.

nice outcome. I do miss working on the old K engines. So simple. I love how much ground you can see when looking down into the engine bay. hah.

nothing is impossible. you can put any differential you like in, but its all going to be custom. ae86 is coil springs for a start, so you will need to cut all the mounts off the ae86 diff and weld on ones to mount leaf springs. or hack up your ke20 and fit coil spring seats. 5 link in a ke20, again custom made. weld in the mounts. sounds easy when you say it fast. lots of work. Your gonna need a custom length tails haft for any diff you pick, not a big deal for a tails haft shop but you need to measure it once your diff is in and then get one made. custom custom custom. also consider the fact everything you just mentioned is 40yrs+ old. its all going to need to be rebuilt regardless.

if it is indeed a no budget build, then a proper ECU is a no brainer. as soon as ITBs come into it you really should be using an aftermarket ECU. You cant get a reliable MAP signal with ITBs. People have claimed for years you can get them to run on the oem ecu, but everyone if seen has never run properly, spluttered and carried on. Just not worth the hastle. and i dunno what you mean by "fully built" but if its got cams and compression, then why waste all this effort on a stock ecu that isn't optimized for your arrangment. But the good news is that the 16v engine is a about as basic as it gets. no vvt, 4 clr. So you can pretty much use the cheapest ecu, those haltech sprint 500 ecus can be had real cheap these days, i saw one for 300bucks the other day. yes they are discontinued but they are modern enough to still be useful. Even a brand new elite 550 is only 1200bucks. Really not bad at all for a current model modern ecu. Make yourself a loom, there's hardly any wires (4injector, air temp, water temp, tps and cam sensor), run the old dizzy if you want for real easy setup (single wire control from the ecu!), or convert to dizzy less using various coil on plug options. Learn how to tune it. you will need a variable TPS, i cant recall if the 4age is variable or a switch. get a good wideband sensor and controller and off you go.

Drop that bad boy off at an engine reconditioner and get them to clean it and inspect it for cracks and face the surface. then you'll get a shiny flat head with hopefully no known cracks. But put a straight edge (metal ruler will do) across it from corner to corner and see if its flat first. but a machine shop will quickly tell you if its saveable.

I wonder what the 3rz-fe is like in Na form, basically the spiritual successor to the 22re. came from the petrol hiluxs from about 1995 onwards. 2.7L too. people do silly things with them turbo, but NA they must be alright. unfortunately anything 4age, T50 and ae86 related is becoming quite hard to find, and if you do its $$ and still needs to be rebuilt!

There's a million threads on the internet about ke70 fitment, and anything about ae86 is relevant too. check out rollaclub as well as ae86drivingclub. lots of old threads. Your chosen wheel size will be pushing it. 15x7+13 with a 195/50/R15 was about as far as i wanted to push it on mine back in the day. 13x6 -6 would sticks out another +6mm or so. It would be a close fit. should be ok on the front as you can add a bit of camber to tuck them in. rear though you might have to roll the guards a bit.

gonna cost you a fortune to get that fixed professionally. you might have to chat to a car restoration place, rather than a panel beater. most panel beaters these days don't beat panels, just paint them. But based purely on those photos I reckon you could get most of it fixed in the backyard to at least back to a drivable state. Just gotta have a go, you can buy/borrow hydraulic porta powers fairly cheap - but youve got to be careful what you push off, as you don't want to bend somewhere else at the same time. Big lumps of wood and big hammers too. you can probably bash out the bumper too but its hard to fix creases in chrome. I dented the crease one on my e30 bumpers years ago, and i bashed it back into shape. most people cant tell, but if you look close there is still a crease.

Crikey. Blast from the past. Eventually all the forums will disappear, and we will be back to individuals in sheds figuring stuff out on their own and not being bothered to tell anyone.

How strong of a differential do you need? are you goin g for big power. Hilux diffs are extremely heavy, and i dont think is a wise chose ever. Really need to consider how much power you are going to make, and probably more importantly how what tire and how much of a moron you intend on driving. breaking diffs is not easy, even the oem one will put up with alot of abuse before it breaks. when considering ke70 diffs, remember they are the same as an ae86. here is my opinion of diffs ke70 diff - quite strong for most NA engines, but no LSDs available. (Except i think some really really rare TRD racing ones) ae86 Australian delivered diff - "S series" - drum brakes - no LSD options - some say weaker than the ke70 diff. but either way, not worth considering ae86 Japanese diffs - "T series" - available with both drums and disc brakes - oem lsds available, and many aftermarket - the disc one is probably the best option for most small capacity NA engines and even high powered ones if driven with some mechanical sympathy. T18 diff - drum brake version of the T series above - came in the toyota T18 in Australia - good option too. bloody rare these days. T series from other cars - Celica's, coronas. my knowledge is limited, but its the same diff as the ae86. not sure if it physically bolts in - gotta be close. Above all bolt in to a ke70. all the ones below are custom installs. cut off all the brackets, and weld on new ones in the right spot. Yr22 Torago diff - we put one of these in a mates ae86 many years ago - it takes an F series LSD from various oem Toyota cars from the 80s. i cant exactly recall. Altezza too I think. quite a big differential. huge drum brakes. really only suitable for high powered engines. You can put on disc brakes off some car as well some obscure corona or something. but finding one of these wont be easy, probably all been scrapped by now. Hilux diff - enormous diff - not sure on LSD availability. but think about it, its a diff designed to tow 3000kg caravans. could weigh 100kg. and a ke70 only weighs 800kg. just to big. R31 skyline diff. available with discs, a rubbish oem "cone" lsd. but there is an aftermarket KAAZ option. pretty good option for a ke70 i think. but all custom brakets etc. Volvos and alphas, i don't know to much about these, but there are plenty of 80s cars with live axel diffs that had LSDs, but its all custom. but i have seen volvo and alpha diffs used over the years. if you are really keen you can put any differential you like in, if you are happy to weld on the brackets in the right spot and get a custom drive shaft made. Remember you want the lightest differential possible that will put up with your task. as we are talking about unsprung weight here. the worst kind of weight. Also I haven't mentioned any diff lengths. that's one thing to consider with what wheels you are gonna run - physically fitting the wheels in the guards, as wel as legalities on track increase. You can shorten diffs, but you then need short axels etc. gets expensive fast.