AlexK

Recommend you read the FAQ in full and not just take the easy way out and expect somebody to provide a short list and expect this to cover off all your requirements. Some things missing from the above list ( and I know it wasn't intended to be a complete list), that come to mind are: - return fuel line for EFI system - either a RWD throttle manifold or cut n shut fwd one - some form of fuel cut system now that your running EFI. etc. Better to be informed properly before undertaking the job.

Hi guys, I have a cam for a 3K which I picked up some time ago but have never fitted. I was told it was very wild and unstreetable but was going to use in a hillclimb project. I will probably be looking to sell this but firstly need it identified ( project went 4AGE) Tried googling and product links for Wade and Crow cams but had no luck. Attached is the "740" label stamped into the end. Any help appreciated.

Had a similar problem with my 16V which did not have the speed sensor connected. Without it connected the car had revs reduced by some 500 RPM. It has to do with the speed limiter. As the speed is not sensed ECU thinks you are trying to bypass the speedlimiter so cranks back the revs by 5-600RPM's to ensure you are limited in speed. You can overcome the speedlimiter by using the following simple circuit. I have had one made and it works fine. Tested on Phillip Island main straight and no speed limiter and the revs were back to what they should be ( never enough though). Hope this helps you out. http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.p...t=speed+limiter

Is it a Bluetop or redtop? Seems low by all accounts. I have a Bluetop in my S600 running std ECU with home-made extractors driving the Rear wheels and I get 68kw at the wheels. something not quite right - hope you get it sorted.

;) Hi guys, for those interested the flasher unit supplying a signal to the SPD on the ECU works a treat. I now have up to around 7500RPM (rev limit) as compared with the 6700 RPM experienced with no signal at the SPD point. Thanks guys for your help. The car now runs great on hillclimbs... I have a mate making the 555 timer cct which will reduce the size and remove the flasher can noise. For those undertaking the flasher can method be aware that flasher cans require a load connected to them of 2 globes(1 globe flashes a bit fast). 2 globes can get quite hot so need to be insulated. At the moment I inserted into a broken rear tailight and shoved in my glovebox. regards Alex.

;) Hi Guys, just finished an excellent weekend hillclimb racing at Mt Leura in Camperdown with the car. The flasher unit supplying a signal to the SPD sensor on the ECU worked a treat and I am now good for revs to around 7400-7500 RPM. I am getting a mate to wire up a 555 timer cct which will reduce the size of the unit and remove the flasher signal beat. cheers Alex.

Whoops, just checked the specs and it is 690kg ( without fuel). It is quite heavy as it has a separate chasis and the body can be lifted off ( 28 bolts hold it together). cheers Alex.

Hi Guys, the standard S600 weighs in at 790kg.The toyota engine and gearbox and rear end change compared to the original 600cc(11,000 redline) engine with chain driven independent rear end difference may add about 50kg max. Around 850kg. you guys have been a great source of knowledge and help in putting this together. With all the info on the 4age it has made the task easier to do. Anything I can do to assist others I more than welcome. cheers Alex.

Hi guys, a couple of shots of my horolla or toyonda. Honda S600 with a bigport 4AGE. Initally had a mild 3K in it but was sadly underpowered at hillclimbs. After reading your forums and Phil Bradshaws page I decided that a 4AGE would be worth installing. as with all conversions this had some issues ( all overcome). The car has been log booked by CAMS and I use it for hillclimbs. I am still fine tuning it but on the Dyno got 68kw ATW ( much better than the 34kw ATW the 3K got). I am trying out the "flasher can" substitute for the SPD on the ECU this weekend ( thanks to all for this info). If this works the extra 800-1000RPM at the top end will be well used ( currently limited to 6700RPM with no SPD connected). The aim will be to use a 555 timer circuit down the track.

Hi Guys, searched on toymods and found the answer to my own problem relating to 20V. It appears you can connect the #10 (idnitor pulse) to SPD to trick the ECU into thinkinga SPD is connected. Also in the link below it confirms that the pusle is a negative pusle ( to gnd). I'll now go forth with some confidence with the flasher can and relay method and advsie of my success or otherwise. thanks again. http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.p...t=speed+limiter

Hi Guys, just reading the article more closely on the flasher unit. Is this saying that the SPD point of the ECU gets shorted to gnd(earth) every 3-4 seconds by way of a relay and flasher? or is it saying that the actual signal ( from the speedo I presume) that guys who have the speed limiter connected, get's shorted to gnd. I only ask as I do not know what the SPD signal should look like as I do not have the original speedo/ set-up. Before I go shorting the SPD point to gnd (3 times a second) it would wise of me to ask the impact. Is the signal to the SPD of the ECU a square wave? If so what is hte peak voltage ( 5V or 12V)? thanks again.

thanks guys for all the helpful advice. I will look into the flasher relay and let you know how I go.

Engine was out of AE82 - I don't have the speed sensor connected but thought ( through Phil Bradshaw's page and others) that this was not required to be connected. I stand to be corrected though. If needed what can I do to have it disconnected ( ie do I need to set a voltage to it of a value)? thanks

Hi guys, Looking for your expert advice/help. I have recently installed a Blue top into my honda s600 for hillclimb work. The engine itself is producing 68kw ATW with peak power at 6250RPM. I am happy with the power ( std ECU) but with my gearing a few more revs would help out ( mid corners). The engine runs out of Revs at 6700RPM (seems a little low). I am not running any O2 sensor - Would this cause the problem? I have a surge tank and am running 2* EFI pumps (external). As mentioned it is std ECU. I am running 5/16 fuel line to engine and 1/4 back to the fuel tank. Home made extractors ( limited space) are 4-1. Your help is much appreciated.

Problem solved - Blocked off Throttle body vacuum pts. 2 had connectors on and were blocked but other 2 were minus connector. I assumed ( wrongly) that these were never connected. This is what happens when buying an engine that is not in a running car. Appears many of these probems relate to vacuum leaks. Finding the leak is the difficult task though. Once I get organised I'll put on photos ( in the correct Forum). thanks again .

Hi, I 'm new to the scene and wondering if this problem got resolved. I have put a Blue Top into a Honda S600 and am experiencing the same problem. I reckon it has to do with the TVIS as the car is fine above 3000 RPM. Below this it does a surge whereby you have to try and keep a steady acc pedal or else the rev bounce happens. Going Hillclimbing next weekend as a first try of the car so hope to keep the Revs above 3000 ( shouold be no prob). I have also blocked off the idle valve. cheers