Davros El Davros

Hey Man, just checked out your pics and the brake setup looks sweet! That should pull you up without a problem. What sort of brake master cylinder/booster setup are you going to run?

Well, it may appear that this thread had been forgotten, but its back baby! In the last few months I have been on a 5 week trip around Australia with my folks in a 82 Jeep Cheokee (will post a few pics from the transport museum in Alice Springs..), and then back home for a week then working up in Briz Vegas. Finally made the move up here over the weekend, so now I am settled it's time to get back to the car. Where I left off we were discussing the brakes and what setups to run. I have decided that I am going to run with the Hoppers Stoppers kit - YKE 20T thanks for the feedback. I have only heard good things about Hoppers Stoppers gear so this just confirms it. It's a bit of an expense, but well worth it in my eyes. This kit requires 15 inch wheels, but I have been planning to upgrade to bigger wheels anyway, and try and get a bit more rubber on the ground. Does anyone know the rules in QLD regarding increasing wheel size? Ill hunt them up somewhere and make sure they are by the book. Now living in Brisbane I will need to find a place to do the custom extractors and exhaust, the tailshaft mods and a few other things. If anyone has any suggestions please fire away. Ill post some more pics real soon showing some of the latest work - completing the cut and shut and getting the hydraulic clutch sorted out.

Yeah I am running an electronic dizzy, which has kept the tuning fairly even over the last 6 months. After watching my old man mess around with points dizzys on our valiants for the past 20 years, I decided to stick with my electronic dizzy on this engine. I was having some issues with pinging because my timing was too advanced, but we worked out the timing and everything has been running sweet for the last 6 months or so, save a few issues with the stock Aisan carby - float level is a bit low which makes the engine stall sometimes when you have to break really hard to stop. Ill run the compression test first, then pull off the rocker cover and do the valve stem seals so I can start crossing off things.... :P

Thanks Felix - I thought first of all that the timing may be out, but it idles well down low and is fine up until you reach the upper end of each gear. The engine currently has a double row timing chain in it, with gears taken from a 3k that we put in about a year ago. The car hasn't done an excessive amount of miles since then, so the chain should still be ok. Ill try the compression test for sure - first spare moment Ill head down and get a compression tester and give it a bash then post the results. Pretty logical. Should have thought of this myself. :P

Hey all.. Been a while since I was last on here- been in the process of moving interstate which kills funds and time to work on the rolla. I am about balls deep into a 4age conversion which has been postponed due to moving from stinktown (aka Wollongong) to Briz Vegas. Got a bit of a problem after driving my 5k powered KE10 from South Coast NSW to Briz Vegas the other night. The engine already had a bit of wear on it, and was starting to chew a bit of oil and blow a small amount of smoke when started. It was also starting to make a light tinny rattle when you reached the top range of each gear before changing to the next gear, and after the trip up to Brissy, the rattle has got a lot more pronounced and the car loses a bit of power at the upper range of each gear, where before it would keep revving till you changed. I am figuring its time to throw in new piston rings and check out the valve guides. Just wondering if yall can offer any advice, and also if anyone in the Brisbane area can point me in the direction of a good engine shop. Or would it be better to get my hands on a new 5k head? Any help greatly appreciated. Tried google and the search here, but not many results for what I was after. Thanks DAV-ROS..

Hey Bro - I am in the middle of (slowly) putting a 100kW 4age in my KE10, and am looking at the brakes right now. My engineer in Wollongong NSW wants to see slotted and vented front rotors, twin pot calipers and a twin circuit master cylinder with a remote booster. Sounds like a bit of overkill, as others on this forum have had theirs passed with lesser brakes. However, I have got the money and am happy to go overboard on the brakes. I am putting a kit on the front that is made by Hoppers Stoppers in Victoria - they are pricey but from what I have heard are well worth it. Check out their website and they have a photo of the full kit. Then I am putting a remote brake booster and a twin circuit master cylinder in there once the engine has been mounted. Ill be doing this in the next 2 months or so, so Ill throw some pics up in my thread on the conversions section... Davros

Have a look at the kits that Hoppers Stoppers do for the early rollas. They cost a bit, but from all reports they are worth it. I am about to purchase one of these kits for my KE10 - 4AGE conversion. Link to the hoppers site

Hey guys - thanks for the feedback regarding the brakes...seems to be the only things I haven't got sussed out as yet. I don't have the engine in the engine bay just yet - am about to go away for 6 weeks, so Ill start putting it in as soon as I get back. Was planning on measuring the clearance as soon as I get back and then trying to find a master cylinder that fits best. I had heard that RX 7 masters can be used and are relatively compact. I am not sure exactly how much clearance I will have until the engine is in the engine bay. In regard to using something like KE70 brakes and calipers, are they vented as well? If I want to get vented and slotted rotors, do I need to upgrade calipers too? I have been wondering how far to go with the brakes - if I should hunt around and find something that I can put in there (such as KE30/55/70) stuff with different calipers, or just go for a full upgrade kit such as one from Hoppers Stoppers for early corollas (Click here - then click the toyota link in LHS list) or these ones available in Western Sydney (click). I have spoken to this guy on the phone, and he is super helpful and basically all you do is send him your struts and your cash and he does the rest. It costs a bit, but I am thinking it is worth going overboard on the brakes... opinions sought on this!

Hey Guys, thanks for the kick up the ass - been super busy the last few weeks and haven't been online much - working as a graphic designer and staring at a computer screen all day def kills the desire to come home and do the same thing..... So, in regard to updates things have been moving along pretty well. Gearbox has been sourced and is sitting at in the shed all ready to bolt up, plus have all of the high tensile bolts ready to go. Gave the box a damn good clean, so it basically looks good enough to eat off at the moment. Clutch slave has been purchased as well as the bundy tube to bend up the line, have fitted the hydraulic clutch master cylinder and am in the process of modifying the clutch pedal to push the master cylinder piston in - this is going to be surprisingly simple, and will be documented with pics.. 4AGE RWD backing plate and gearbox stays have been sourced. 22 spline tailshaft has turned up from Perth - thanks Chris for your help there. Manifold cut and shut is complete. Looks super fresh as well - pics coming soon. Oil seals have been relaced on the engine - cam seals and front and rear seals, as well as the water pump and timing belt and oil filter. Am in the process of working out what to do with the brakes. Looking at a few options which I will investigate and document as I work them out.... My engineer here reckons he wants a tandem master cylinder, and vented rotors on the front. I was just planning to put the KE30 rotors and calipers on, then a remote booster. Will have to reconsider, or go and see a different engineer! Looking at a few upgrade kits out there - figured it is a smart idea to make the car stop as well as it will go! If anyone has any suggestions or advice for the brakes that would be killer.!

Hey guys, Big props on this project - finished car looks awesome! You have got to be proud driving around in that. damn fine work...... :party:

Google is your friend. Try this for starters: http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/phil.bradshaw/Index.htm

Plus have an in-built espresso machine...

03 - Cleaning Up the Engine: So, I have got a bit further on the engine - after getting it in the garage and staring at it for about an hour, I started to clean the whole lot up. This started by getting my digital camera and taking as many reference shots of how things were connected as I thought I needed - I don't want to get everything apart and not be able to put it all back together again! :P I also grabbed some masking tape and a marker pen and labelled the whole wiring loom before pulling eveything off. I then proceeded to pull most of the peripherals off the engine - intake plenum, alternator, dizzy, water cooling system, cam covers etc, and giving the engine a good going over with a brass brush on a power drill, and then hitting it with degreaser. Basically getting the block ready for painting, and at the same time starting to polish up the alloy bits to make em nice and shiny....I am going to try and get the cam covers to a mirror finish if I can. Have also started sourcing some of the other parts that I will need for the conversion: Starter Motor and Bellhousing from Briz Vegas - thanks Gilly! Clutch, machined flywheel, 86KW 4AGE rear water outlet and external thermostat from an AE82 4A-C also comin' straight outta Briz Vegas - thanks Beerhead Engine mounts and gearbox mount have arrived from South Australia- thanks Jordan T-50 gearbox is on its way from Tassie as soon as I can get the goddam courier organised....thanks Eason for your patience. 22 spline output shaft is sourced and will be picked up tomorrow morning...keeping this one a secret until I got it in my hands. Hydraulic clutch gear is coming from Brakewest in Victoria - if anyone needs any brake/clutch advice, give Goran a ring at Brakewest - the dude is a legend.... Front rotors and calipers from a KE30 are sitting in my garage at my parent's place, as well as a VH44 remote booster that I am going to steal from my mum's old valiant. Other parts have to be ordered from Sean the walking car encyclopedia at Autobarn in Nowra - high PSI fuel lines, pumps and surge tank, clutch throwout bearing, new dizzy cap and leads and a few others. Have also started in the manifold cut and shut, which is looking pretty darn good, so Ill post up some flicks real soon for that.

Hey fellas - ok the smallport (as well as the ECU, loom and map sensor) came from the nice guys at Ichiban Imports in Moorebank, Sydney. I was lucky to find that they had one in stock with low mileage and in great condition. Of course I have already started going nuts and cleaning the whole thing up, painting the block and polishing every alloy piece I can get my hands on. (Pics = soon) Beerhead - yeah the loom is fully complete and in good nick. I think I may be sending it your way though, as well as the ECU, and get you to chop out all of the extra stuff that I wont need (if this is still a service that you are doing...) Thanks for the heads up with the mounts, but already have some sitting in my garage - thanks to Jordan! They came from an unfinished 4AGE/KE10 conversion in South Australia. They look really solid, and I also got my hands on the custom gearbox crossmember as well. Waiting for the gearbox to come in this week or next week, then I mostly got everything I need. COOLING SYSTEM: I am wondering if my recently triple-cored and recon'd KE10 radiator will be fine to handle the cooling - it's in great condition and has a thermo fan. Just need to get the bottom outlet switched to the driver's side. Anyone got any suggestions on the radiator setup? I heard that Excel radiators work fine, but would like to stick with mine if it will do the job.... I got an external thermostat and all, so I know how to plumb all that up..just wondering about the radiator (oh, and about a million other things...!)

Yeah bro, am right in the middle of this at the moment. I am doing it in a bit of a different way to other examples that I have seen though. A whole lot more work, but something I wanted to try out. I got some progress flicks that I'll post up soon. Oh yeah, also got the RWD flywheel and clutch in the post today. Got my hands on a lightened 20v flywheel.....Thanks beerhead - you are ruling!

03 - Sourcing The Engine So, after deciding that the 4AGE is what I wanted, I started looking at how to get my hands on one. Figured that it would almost be a freak occurance to stumble across one at a wrecking yard, but I tried calling a few anyway. I also did a lot of trawling about on forums and for sale threads and found out that these things are not that hard to get after all - you just have to do you research and also be a bit patient. I was thinking of throwing a 20v in there as mentioned before, and saw a few tempting deals going (like this one that is for sale at the moment... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=13185) but it looked like the conversion would be a bit too tricky, so I decided to stick to a 16v - an already familiar conversion without too much hassle... So I did a bit of ringing around and spoke to a few engine importers and started comparing prices on the 100kw 16v 4AGE, and found that Ichiban was the best out of the places I dealt with. I was damn lucky that they happened to have a tidy 4AGE in stock on the shelf which was exactly what I was after, so after handing over my hard earned $1395 I walked out of there with the following: 100kw 16v 4AGE from an AE92, with approx 76 000km 1 1/2 wiring looms (butchered loom attached to engine, plus uncut wiring loom) ECU Map Sensor Coil The engine was really clean when we picked it up - they had given it a pretty good blasting with degreaser, and apart from a few bumps and scratches it was in pretty good order. It also has been compression tested and has a 3 month warranty, so the race is on to get it in and started before this runs out (don't really like my chances here.....)

Thanks Jordan - got those picks you sent the other day. Ill check it out more closely tonight and compare with my current radiator.

Guys, thanks for the feedback - thinking I will move forward with the KE55 rotors and calipers and the VH44 booster. Interseting about the AE86 vented rotors - would be keen to hear how these progress.. I am about to take a crash course in plumbing my own brake lines and clutch master cylinder.! It will be a bit tricky, but nothing that I can't do, so I'll keep the progress posted. Jordan, what can I say, you are the man! Thanks for the photos, the mounts look solid as. Ill take a closer look at that radiator and compare it with mine and get back to you. As for the diff, when I got the car it had a really nice crunching whine at about 65-75 km per hour, so we ripped the diff centre out and threw in a diff centre from a KE30 that we had lying around. Had to mod the rear universal joint to mate the diff up to the tail shaft, but so far it has been really solid. I am going to use the KE30 axles in the diff as well, after I get them machined down about 5mm each so that they are the right length. I figure I'll stay with stock KE10 drums on the back, until the little diff gives way and I have to chuck something more heavy duty in there. With the back axles and front rotors from a KE30 or KE55, Ill also be able to upgrade to bigger wheels. I am a big fan of the original hubcabs and dress rims on the 12" steelies I have, but I would like something wih a bit more grip on the road, cause this little weapon is going to fly. More updates real soon - heading down to my shed this weekend to work on the engine.

Hey Matt, Well stay tuned, cause the fun is just beginning...! For engineering, I have to get the engine mounts checked, the brakes upgraded, make sure the transmission tunnel is reinforced where the hole is cut for the gear shift, and a few other things. In terms of brakes, the car already has discs on the front... What I am planning on doing is upgrading the front brakes to KE30 or KE55 rotors and calipers, and then pilfering the remote brake booster (VH44 I think) out of mum's old valiant and rigging it up. This means Ill get boosted front discs and the regular rear drums. (somebody please feel free to jump in here and tell me if this is incorrect, a bad idea, or throw in any suggestions..... :y: ) Now, in terms of engine mounts, I was fully planning on building custom mounts for the engine and gearbox from regular 6mm steel plate. Here are some reference pics: BUT, I was lucky enough to find some (with much help from Jordan - thanks again bro..!) on a KE10 in Adelaide that was halfway through a similar conversion, and they are in the post as we speak. So it saved me a shiteload of work.. But it seems fairly simple to make up your own - just remember that it's generally best sit the engine in the engine bay with a engine crane or something, then make up templates out of MDF, then transfer the measurements to your steel plate. Tack it together yourself, and then get an engineer to weld it all up. I have found a few links on engine mounts so Ill try and dig them up.

02 - RESEARCH CONTINUED: So, after having read as much as I could and printing out a lot of the content from the sites so I could have it for quick reference, I tried to find as many images of 4AGE engines and conversions as I could, preferably ones into a KE10. There were not as many as I thought there would be. Here are some small versions of all of the pics that I managed to get. If anyone wants all of these to download, go here: http://www.theviciouscycle.com.au/4age/4ag...ence_images.zip I was originally planning on putting in a 20v - I figured that they were a later model engine, which would be easier to get parts for and may run a bit smoother, but I couldnt seem to locate any pictures of a KE10 with a 20v 4AGE anywhere. I also read about the 20v having the dizzy mounted off the back of the head which made the RWD conversion a bit tricky - requiring firewall modification or the fitting of a crank angle sensor. I figured that I didn't want to fit a crank angle sensor, so it would be easier to go with an 86kw or 100kw 16v.

Good stuff Jordan - Ill give you a call on your mobile later tonight. Have been away from home for a few days, so not been able to get on the net.

If you are after 5k pushrods for hyrdaulic lifters then give Crow Cams a call in Victoria. They do custom chromoly pushrods for the speedway boys who use 5k engines. don't have the part number on me, but just give them a call and tell them what you are after. Be prepared though, because aren't exactly cheap. Good luck. Davros

02 - RESEARCH: So, having had limited experience with toyota engines, and being fairly new to rollaclub, I figured I better get on the case and get some research done. Below is basically my reading list - I trawled through these pages and printed out all of the relevant parts for my project, and compiled them into a loose leaf folder (yeah, anal I know...). A lot of them will be familiar to yall seasoned pros, but they were dam helpful to me. I plan on updating this list as I find more info and relevant pages to what I am doing. If anyone has other links please put them up... RTA Vehicle Specs: - One of the most important pages to read FIRST! http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow...si/vsi_dl1.html Rollaclub 4AGE Page: - Of course :n: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=5644 P.A.S.S Autosports - These guys do custom rear water outlets for RWD conversions http://store.autosportsupplies.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc? Phil Bradshaw's amazingly detailed and in depth 4AGE conversion guide http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/phil.bradshaw/Index.htm Russell Turney's 4AGE Specs and How to: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/8422/4age.htm Bill Sherwood's Home Page - The man knows his car stuff, and is the king of funky tiled HTML backgrounds.... http://www.billzilla.org/index.htm TEDDY'S NOOB GUIDE NO #0052 - Already contains most of these links, plus a few more... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=5644 Club 4AGE 4AGE Engine pros and cons: http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech_pa...0of%204A-GE.htm Club 4AGE 20v RWD Conversion Guide: http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech_pa...oject%2020V.htm 4AGE 20v Rear Water Outlet http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4108 The Witzl's Guide to 4AGE RWD Cooling System and Manifold Cut n Shut: http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88 To be continued.....

00 - INTRO: Ok, before this begins, I understand that there is an absolute shite-load of information out there on the good old 4AGE engine conversion and RWD setup for FWD drive cars, so this is not intending to re-invent the wheel so to speak. This is going to be a documentation of the process we are about to undertake to put a 100kw 4AGE and a T50 5 speed box into my KE10. In the last few months I have been doing a tonne of reading and research into the conversion, and have compiled a fair amount of info. I have found many how-to guides that have been absolutely invaluable, but have had trouble finding something specific to a KE10, other than some really old posts on Toymods and some random pictures floating around the net. I have done my research and am about to undertake the project, so i thought I would document the job from start to finish, so it may make some things easier for other people. At the same time, it will be an open invite for people to make comments, suggestions or advice for things I may not have worked out...... I plan on updating this as I make progress on the project - Ill try my best to keep the crap to a minimum and not waffle on too much... 01 - STARTING POINT: So, this is what I have got at the moment: Its an awesome little 1967 KE10 coupe, with a mild 5k, extractors, 5 speed box, single downdraft Aisan carb and good old 12" steelies with original hubcaps and dress rims, and whitewall tires of course. Interior is fully custom trim, headliner and carpet, and it has a custom steel dash and VDO cockpit guages, momo wheel and gearshift knob. Stereo is fairly pissweak and can hardly be heard when the car is going fast anyway... I have had this car for just over a year - I bought it in pretty much the condition that is in now, except it was running like an absolute dog. Me and my old man have done a heap of mechanical work and the car now runs pretty well - its a bit grumpy on idle when the engine is cold, but other than that it's a great little weapon. So, why fix what ain't broke? And the die hard old school corolla fans will be screaming at me to get twin webbers, head porting and polishing and a Tighe cam, instead of messing with the 4AGE.....! Well, this car was purchased to be a daily driver, while I am restoring my true love - a 1968 Valiant VC regal (see I have been a valiant freak for most of my life...). Originally I bought the KE10 cause it was a hot little car with classic styling, and never intended to do much with it. As time has gone on I really dig this car and want to get it up to scratch so it can drive long distances, be smoother and more responsive, and have more capability to make power out of the engine if needed down the track. And being a p-plater, I needed to go with something that was naturally aspirated and of course fitted in the RTA rules and regulations for the modification of light production vehicles. (more on this later...) And seeing how damn tough the toyota engines are, I decided to go with the good old 4AGE...plus I thought it would be nice to be able to blow off commodore booners and my old man's charger.....

For my KE10 I just bought new 12" tyres from my local tyre place, then after wearing them in for a few months, I got the whitewalls engraved on the tyres. I am down south of Sydney, and the guy came to my house and did the whole lot for $100. He said that you need to wait a few months after the tyres are brand new, as they have certain oils to preserve them that can disolour the whitewall paint when it is applied. So that would be your best bet - buy decent tyres for the car then find someone who does whitewall engraving... Cheers Davros