BreakDave - GT

1JZ vvt-i turbo..... i think they have steel-wheel turbo, unlike the ceramic ones on the twin turbo, and are more 'torquey' than the TT 1JZ. would personally be my pick!!

Ancullen... ur pretty much on the money there... apart from differences in how points are awarded/subtracted maybe. There is virtually no overtaking as cars are usually sent out with space in between each on track... great idea for beginners and people not wanting panel damage lol. and i may be wrong... but not sure if you even need a CAMS license to participate... i think you maybe be able to get a day license, similar to what happens on practice days on another note... state titles are on this wkend at mallala, including improved production, which has one very fast KE55... haha should be well worth look if ya can get out there!

If ya wanna go N/A go BEAMS 3S!!! nothing else would come real close IMO, other than maybe the F20... Honda S200 motor.

Low brushes mate... get it re-conditioned! :P

TO4 are bigger arent they! pretty sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong!

If you have stacks of cash.... then go snap-on.... but its bloody expensive and if you do tend to lose stuff, wouldnt worry bout it. Never bought supatool stuff..... but don't really trust stuff that you can buy from 'super cheap auto' Sidchrome usually good, but have gone thro heaps of there new ratchets, tho they are covered by warranty, the process took 3 months and the replacement one is stuffed already after 3 wks. Got a heap of CGL stuff.... spanners and socket sets are good.... but screwdriver sets are rubbish. thats what i've found anyway.... mite be of some influence to ya

Either the alt has an intermittent problem... prob not likely if they've checked it 3 separate times.... or possibly the wire which goes to the alt to control the warning light has rubbed thro somewhere and gone to ground. dave

Yeh it can depend on different things, like the car and how much electronics you got on it etc etc... ie carby/fuel injection 'but as a safe rule i'd put it on 'battery side' of isolator Similar thing can happen with alternator warning light circuit, where if there is no diode the alt will back feed through the ignition and can keep engine running wen u turn key off... hence why factory dashs have didoes built in. Theres bit more pointless info... lol... sorry to temporarily hijack the thread

This is somewhat correct, but the main reason is that the when the battery is isolated with the alternator running, it will still keep producing an output but have no load (such as battery) to accept the current its producing. It ends up burning the diodes inside the alternator, and it will not work again. ie, time to get new alternator otherwise Dave

We fit mainly Cyclops alarms made by dynamco in aus... good thing about em is you can get parts for em like the keypads etc if ya lose em and they come with all the usual good stuff... black wiring, central locking outputs, boot release, glass break sensors etc etc

yeh sounds bout right... prob bad earth and the brakes lights are earthing through tail/park/dash lights. check earths for rear lights first... theres a starting point!

they can run a design which may arc/spark because in the tank is nearly all fuel, no oxygen, so there is no air/fuel mixture which is able to go bang

the only problem with this is that fuel actually flows around the motor parts in the pump, so after the pump u can get pieces of carbon brushes and metal from pump through the system.... so if ya wanna be ridiculously safe run one before and after the pump maybe.

as above... and with filter... add it after fuel pump somewhere before the rail

Not entirely too sure bout this one, but i reckon i've heard bout running diesel oil in after a rebuild, or if engines been lying round for a bit coz it has 'cleaning agents' or something in it??

On your relay: pin 30: battery feed (fused) 87: +ve output to fan 86: ignition +ve (make sure you don't use the ballast resistor side as voltage wont be high enough to switch the relay 85: can either be ground, if u want it on always with ignition; or have it from ground thro a switch like the other guys have said so when gets bit hot switch it on most likely the reason its not workin now is stuffed relay or you have hooked it up off the low voltage side of the ballast resistor dave

the thick white wire will prob not be an earth, more than like the battery positive that bolts to the stud on the alternator marked B+, coz they usually just rely on the mounting on the block for an earth. they other wires in the three pin plug: one will be to control the warning light. the other two will be sense (battery positive) and an ignition feed check those with a test light dave

ah sounds like success... good effort mate!

oh do something different and put a 1UZ in it! LOL ...and its still in the family, not sure what registering it would be like tho

so sounds like it all went sweet then cameron? also did you end up upgrading that cable?

Cameron... Its not really gonna make a difference either way.... if the old cabling looks rubbish and is easy to remove then take it out and just replace it with the new thicker one, otherwise leave the old one there in the loom as it will prob be in same loom as warning light circuit, and other power feeds may run off that main positive. So prob just in case leave the old stuff and run the new one aswell, more cabling means one thing, more current flow, but sometimes big mess Dave

hey... for size of cable... i'd recommend prob 2 B&S... mainly because of the fact of how far it has to run from rear to front. u can refer to narva website for current ratings etc. http://www.narva.com.au/Terminals_26.html and if this is same car with alt upgrade run prob 6 B&S between alt and starter as for fuses/circuit breakers u may struggle to find one of around 250 Amps, if not just run the main cable in conjuit tubing and make sure its not goin to rub through anywhere, and just fuse whatever comes off starter/alternator

no worries... let us know how it goes ey!

when u start getting into the theory behind all these different sets of windings.... its gonna get very confusing, believe me ive sat thro it all..... but all u need to know is that the warning light circuit on dash is connected to 'L' and it needs to work for it to charge. when u go get ur new reg. see if they have a plug to suit it maybe, u can get them and will look neater if ur worried bout that... also may aswwell see how much battery cable u need too.

ok... i've tried to do a dodgy diagram for you... dunno if this pic will be displayed tho or not, can only try. maybe of more help than words: