CanadianKE17

Thanks for the info! I'm just going to use all e7 junk, I don't have inspections to worry about.

Seeing as this forum seems to have the highest concentration of KE10s on the internet, I figure I should throw mine in for good measure! The story starts when I drag this KE10 from the bushes in my hometown, paying about $200 to get it to my house. My initial observations: The car has been hit in the front and back with a lot of flaking bondo as evidence. The entire interior is halfway converted to dirt. Not a single mechanical or electrical component is working or even looks serviceable. The only upside is that the shell is structurally solid if not straight, and it has some extremely awesome patina. To the parts pile! My initial plan was to leave it stock and patina'd and slam it, just to make it a nasty cruiser. Then the drifting bug bit me, and I got a little more ambitious. The nice KE17 shown above was rear ended shortly after that photo, so I decided to borrow the running gear for the KE10 while I repaired the damage and performed complete a bodyshell restoration. The mechanical rundown: Motor: 3TC (2tc block, early pre EGR 2tc head, 3tc internals) Fidanza Al flywheel Mikuni 40mm from a 2TG on a mikuni manifold fresh rebuild 0.5mm over TE27 SR5 T50 trans (has a different tail housing that keeps the shifter further forward) AE86 short stroked front struts/brakes with T3/Ground Control stuff. 6kg springs, koni yellows TE2x crossmember and steering box lengthened TE2x control arms 17 or 18mm sway bar (again from a te27 sr5 I believe) TE2x rear end with 6.38 diff, TRD LSD and welded diffs, both 3.9 ratio Modified rear leaves: Thicker main leaf, reversed eyes and de-arched flat. Crappy KYB rear shocks :( Swap in progress: I scored some free corbeau seats off a friend, mostly because they were hideous colors that nobody else wanted. A concept sketch: And it all pays off, here it is at it's first drift day! Now, the pictures are cool n all, but in truth I was spinning out like mad. The car is so light and short, with a front heavy bias, and a slowww steering box. I let some friends try it out, even those with more experience had their hands full. Of course, this first post only covers stuff up to about april 2011, so there is much more to come, in this epic saga of trying to get a KE10 to drift acceptably. Stay tuned!!

The car looks wicked man, esp with those mkIIIs. What width are they? Damn, I wish we could still get decent sizes in 13s and 14s out here, but I guess there's just no interest in small cars. I'm stuck with tall skinny 13s, 185/60/14s, or 15s with crappy smart car tires (175/50/15). Do you have any knowledge on whether bump steer will be an issue putting a KE70 rack into a KE20 crossmember? Because the control arms mount closer to the center on a KE20 unit. I want to convert to rack as well, though I may just chop up an AE7 or TE7 crossmember (we don't have ke7s in North America).

Looks great! Happy to see it looking good again after the fire. My buddy lit his r100 on fire last year and he still hasn't got around to fixing it :/. I agree on putting the front spring rate back to 4kg, since you have a good sway bar on there. I'm running a heavier motor/trans (3TC) in my ke10 and I run 6kg on the track, and 4.5kg on the street, with a 17mm sway bar.

Name: Corey Car: 1969 Rat Bastard KE10 Drift car Motor & Driveline: 3TC, 5spd. Fidanza flywheel, mikuni 40mm carbs, extractor, chrome bits Suspension & Brakes: TE27 rear end welded, TE27 Front end with AE86 struts. Ground control coilover kits with koni race shocks. Stiff reversed eye leaves in the back with 2" drop blocks. Wheels & Tyres: Varies Interior: Nonexistant Body: Dragged out of bushes Other: Apexi fart cannon I am also still the owner of the Red KE17 on the first page :)

You can use strut tops made for KE2x/TE2x you will have to oval out the holes a bit, the spacing is a few mm larger.

70-71 2t heads are bigport, they have larger intake port diameters and maybe larger valves. The only other differences in T-C heads are emissions stuff, like EGR. It looks like you've got one head from an earlier 2t and one later head with the EGR junk on it. They all bolt together the same you just might have to plug some holes on the EGR head.

I'm running a 3tc+t50 in my LHD KE17. You will have to cut a new hole for the shifter as well as relocate the transmission crossmember back about 4.5". The tunnel had to be beaten a bit to fit to fit the tranny I used the whole front suspension/steering gear and rear end from a te21, which increased my track by about 1" (also givign me 4x114.3 bolt pattern and the option of ae86 brakes), and put the motor in exactly the right place. I guess t-series cars are quite rare in Aus so you might be better off welding your own mounts together on a k crossmember. With the wider track I could still fit a 13x6 with +25 offset with the fender beads rolled. On a RHD drive car you might have issues with the brake booster if you want to run sidedraughts, I get off easy with LHD! For a rad I used a te21 unit which might be the same as a KE20. To clear the rad you need a short nose water pump and a thin metal fan bolted onto that, theres no room for electric. Battery relocated to the boot. It's a tight fit but it looks like it was made to be there. I love the 2t/3t, they put out tons of torque compared to k or a series motors, and they are really robust. My car is a little more front heavy now but the torque makes up for it, its like driving a muscle car. Theres no way you're going to fit an R series motor in there, it would stick out past the hood lol plus its way too heavy. Might as well put a v6 in it.

Corey Victoria B.C. Canada 02/1970 KE17 Sprinter Stock 3kc/4spd/drums UPDATE: Panasport 13x6 with Sumitmo HTR200 185/60/13

Nice wagon! I dig the flat black with scallops, but i think the wheels need to be red or orange (same as the scallops) as well for a little more contrast. Oh and whitewalls or white lettering :D

Ive only got one other picture, it doesnt show much more detail Its a KE17 vin built 02/70, the previous owner stuck the incorrect grille on it. I just picked up a free te31 with a good 2tc/5spd combo, so I guess I'm going with the 2tc swap... I'm thinking a pair of sidedraughts, cam, shaved head, extractors. By inspection I think I can bolt the te31 brakes into the front of mine, I think the rear end might be a tad wide but we'll see. Because US cars are LHD, the brake cylinder is a tight fit against the 3k, putting in a 2t will free up space for a boosted cylinder. Is the steering box supposed to slide off the column? Cause I can't get mine out and I'm not sure if its just seized on the column splines or if there is a clip or bolt that i should have taken off...

Hi guys, just showing off my KE17... I've had it for about 8 months now, driving it on and off and fixing issues as they come up. I've got money saved up to do a restoration/mods... its just a matter of time. There are very few of these things up in the northern hemisphere, VERY hard to find parts. As it sits now it has 90k miles on it, the body is great with a paint job that looks perfect from 10 feet and just a couple little bubbles of rust, but mechanically its a bit tired. The seats are a pretty wasted but the door cards, headliner, and dash are overrated. I'm unsure at this point of future plans. I think at this point I'm leaning towards a 4k+5spd and some suspension upgrades/disc brakes, though a 2tc is much easier to source parts for up here, and its also easier to get power out of. I don't want to do anything that really involves hacking up the body. The most pressing issue with the car right now is that the steering box is way too sloppy, the screw on top of the box is in all the way and yet i still have a about 3 inches of play at the steering wheel rim. I have this feeling that I'm just going to lose steering completely some day :D