dannyl

I once saw a ke20 3kc with a factory installed booster. it was in a wrecking yard it was in the usa. looked weird because the carb and the master cylinder were close together on the LH side of the engine bay. the car was LH drive being in the usa. i was thinking there must be a toyota part for this. it may have been used elsewhere. you could research the correct part number and see if there is one somewhere available. the car was a '74 corolla ke20, 3kc. looked like there were no mods

read manual b4 jacking. lifting the arms can hurt lbj's. place stands at the jacking points behind front wheels, below doors. if the engine bay is shortened up or the "k" member is pushed back its measureable. i've used a mitchell crash estimator book to get measurements but don't know what you have available there. look for paint knocked off or bends in the body that can push the rack toward the column. measure the toe, wheelbase, crossmeasure, find where a shorter distance now exists. if a tire is hit hard it should make a measurable change/ and or wheel damage. you can transfer the measuring points to the floor in the garage,using a plumbers bob. then move the car and measure point to point map out the measurements and readings before you start to fix so you understand the severity before and where the hardest impact made a crumple. since it absorbs the energy instead of transfering it to the occupants, the evidence will be in more than just one place

hey, awesome. thats a problem i was told for my car. other setups means you have to move the shifter back . you're working on a k40 ? can i id one by the vin? i have a 74 3kc 4 sp. been leaving it be and enjoying the fuel mileage because they tell me you have that floor/carpet hole reversal problem and parking brake too. if i knew interswap arrangements may be had with case tail and shiftrods etc, i can improve my outlook for a possible bell housing difference? or no. i like the little screamer now but it could use some accel at highway speed doesnt accel above 60 . its like restrictor plate racing just keeping up

you can still access it, when frantically searching to diag , after the boys have your hard earned funds. it dispells myths and quashes communication errors. i've noticed this is one of the most often misunderstood types of trouble that folks waste money on. thought it was poigniant. no matter what the calendar said. i find updating old crap helps the next guy save a few here and there. It was that kind of searching and reading that helped me find out my car had been made for a different market and had different goodies in it than i had known before. i was able to order parts i thought were out of production. saved $600 on the trans and got to keep my syncros new and current arent always better, but revisiting makes me learn, saves these rigs from the shredder

hoorah

when the machine shop fixes and or bakes a head they guarantee it. a used one from piknpull is your best money tho. of course the maker wants it to be new, and the mechanic just wishes he could get it out of his stall so a paying customer can pull in.

i was helping the church pastor with his 4ye... saw a leaky pump, sticky stat, and a head cracked. it was one of those panel van types. the engineers designed the head with a weak spot between the valves on purpose because the temp it takes to crack it. if the customer is going to knowingly keep driving after it overheats, this "fusing" of the head makes it quick and easy found without magnafluxing or pressure testing. some can be welded, baked and reused if there are no cores avail. and they pass the savings on to the driver. good for the maker.

still thinkin, its a manual trans right, so the wires for primary and start are going to the ign. sw. but theres gotta be an ign. fuse either in the fuse panel or inline. cruddy connections or one thats had numerous short burns could cause it. so... was there smoke getting set free? volt meter used throughout at each connection should show where it drops. ohmmeter used with batt cable off can show the resistance. if you feel like you need a crash helmet, draw the circuit as you see it while you are finding it. thats what i had to do for my ke20 because the map i was able to get was so different. and if you have electronics mucking up the search, theres nothing like comparing it to one that works. i had to delete my seat belt interlock on my old ke20 for mucking up the circuits. and the emission box on the passenger side had a circuit, but these are about cranking i think. wiring was really a mess in the 70's i once had a turnsignal wire that rubbed on a stereo screw under the carpet. a few broken strands of copper made the flasher squeal and moan leading up to each blink. the screw was diverting some of the juice. she was a happy camper in those days. now, theres dropping 12 to 8

a "wheel balance" vibration happens constant at or near 55mph other speeds give other clues. a good tire shop sends its boys to school. and inspects the tires before removal from the car. have them write the symptom on the paperwork instead of items from the shop menu. ask to see it before he takes it out to the tire men. thats where i have seen someone with a prayer to get a diagnosis. best way to get satisfaction there is take the manager for a ride and say "thats what i'm trying to fix right there!" then ask him if he road tested it before you pick it up. wheel bearings get busy at 30mph to 35mph add and subtract weight by slalloming during the road test. other speeds suggest parts out of round radially or laterally. never seen a cv axle cause a wheel balance type vibration. i have seen a cv axle make an oscillating surge feel. the parts have to get out of phase. or the engine and trans have to sag low in the mounts to make the oscillation set up. enough looseness or missing internal parts can put one out of phase under power.

thats a HIC (hot idle compensator) for the HAI (hot air intake) if its not present and working you may experience carburetor icing. especially in humid 40-45 degrees F. makes the engine die at stop signs because the choke freezes. let it sit....it melts and starts back up, repeat. its gotta be there unless you were to rig a manual choke. since you have the racecar aircleaner, you must not be driving it to work. the metal end senses temp inside the aircleaner and directs vacuum to the mode door in the snorkel. when its warm enough, in the aircleaner housing, the HIC vents the vacuum, it was sending, to atmosphere remember, the engineers do alot of study to increase fuel economy. they also dyno test parts to get the most power and good driveability. racecar part manufacturers don't. they offer more available air but they can't make the engine use it.with just an open aircleaner housing. they offer a louder sound, but they arent making horses. just by that. if you want a 4-af to run right, study the haynes manual. most of what you want is there for you to use. the adjustment plug has to be driiled here in the usa, to get it adjusted right. ends up cleaner at the tailpipe too! theres a port you plug after disconnecting the "M" port hose during the adjustment. the "M"port is down behind and below the aircleaner on a plastic vacuum tree. if you have a public library you may be able to borrow the manual for free? wish i could scan in a page for you.. does anybody else have it to link to?

arent the newer, larger black injectors considered "depositless" ? designed not to gather deposits? but have to be replaced when clogged?

jack up the body...not the suspension. let it hang, lift and drop each wheel by hand. pull and push at the base of each. at 5 and 7 o'clock position. rock the 12 and 6 position on each wheel. shake/wiggle the 3 and 9 o'clock position. look for trapped rocks that can get stuck. broken stabilizer bar links. rack ends loose, sometimes found by the front end man on the turnplate of his alignment machine before he sets the toe-in, because he can freely wiggle them at ride height. the looseness conducts the clunk up the steering column to the driver so it radiates or transfers. you can put a hold on the steering gear (rack) input and isolate the steering shaft then turn the wheel back and forth gently to check it. (no jack under the control arm should ever be used on this suspension type) (the control arm ball joint can be destroyed by focusing the cars weight there)

i keep re reading you have verified a voltage drop. a condition where the conductor or its connections have excessive resistance. poorly conducted volts get used and become heat as the friction has increased. when an amp travels, its pushed, by available electrical pressure (or volts) if theres resistance things begin to cook, if some, but not much, it uses the voltage up. thats how your reading drops to 8 if you are looking for 12. if the resistor is supposed to be there, like a ballast resistor, it will be placed where theres passing air to cool it. if its in a circuit board or (dizzy?) it will have a heat sink. this is why i suspect during the tach installation the cause of a burned circuit may have occurred. its anybodys guess what happened. but the ignition switch tests will take it (the ign. sw.) (barrel?) off the list. ohm readings of the harness wires in question will isolate them to separate them from the list of causes. each wire , disconnected at both ends, should read less than 1/2 ohm or .5 ohm. each connection should read the same. am i being too simple? if two wires are burned together enough to touch, there will be continuity between them and so the same is for continuity to ground (shorted) am i violating the prime directive?

low spark, low cranking voltage on your primary circuit. did you burn a circuit in your ignition switch? hnnn. when cranking..different wires are in use than when the key springs back to the run position, when you let go. determine which is which then volt check the cranking primary. that circuit's brass may be dirty or cooked the grease inside the switch. a "white eraser" for erasing ink on paper works great for cleanup. that is , if you can safely and carefully get it apart without losing the springs. use a clear plastic bag, disassemble within the plastic so they don't get away. often, the "testing ignition switch" description in the written part of the service manual will give values for pass/fail for each circuit, and when, in what position. reassemble using silicone dielectric on the contacts. search the wire in question to where it got boogered so it doesn't reccur. The value of the resistance including the ballast should be a spec you can look-up. if its too high then you have found the bottleneck for the cranking voltage...ya falla? hope this helps.

won't crank? or cranks but won't start? headlights work? fuses and inline fuses still good? battery charged? large fuses still good? pics of your setup and what you did to it would help

did u fix em? stop/tail/turn fuse, right? crossed filament? put a test light across batt terminal to disconnected batt cable. for fuses that blow, an automotive circuit breaker can be used connected across the fuse connections. then go disturb components in the circuits for that fuse. you should hear the breaker trip and reset when you find it. don't ever substitute any other material or component for a fuse, long term. diagnostic purposes only! start eliminating items. remove bulbs, unplug components 1 by one observing the light at the batt post. when u disturb where its crossed or grounding out. the light will change/ go out. now visually inspect the components for something amiss. look into the bulb sockets. inspect the wires at the brake light switch. inspect the lightswitch. inspect the turn signal switch. sometimes older harnesses can shrink away causing bare wires. then being close to metal components they can be in touch with or chafe into the dash or the column, or brackets etc. mine had a dimmer switch rheostat get itself shorted and tried to burn the car. on a celica i had years ago it was the courtesy lights in the door trim panel touching the pass thru hole. a dark bulb that doesnt light can be the one with the filament broke on one side and fallen touching something. be it to ground or the other circuit... each lamp that works is good for 1/4amp a shorted one you must measure to see the rate. add em all together and you have your rate of discharge. on any current draw reading, note your multimeter's testlead hookup and rated capacity. on mine, i have a 10a internal fuse when reading amps. normal unmodified vehicles can have an existing mA (milliamp) draw existing for keep alive memory. if yours has a bunch of kids stuff, use the reading to determine, as you disconnect items one by one, whether it still adds up to a troublesome amount. connecting where we had the test light at the beginning will show you any current that leaves the batt. if you suspect its higher than the meter rating , DON'T hook up! higher rates require inductive amp clamp instead of twin leads and the kind of setup in the meter for this, (like alternator output) a shunt is used here. LUCAS must have also owned a fire extinguisher company

where i live we can get parts from the rebuilder. my last nip was $6 usa for brushes and $17.50 for internal regulator. the rebuilder said he was swamped. showed him the nip i.d. sticker bearings were serviceable. needed a piece of sandpaper for the sliprings. put em in on the tailgate of my ol chevy then carried it back in for a bench test. thumbs-up rebuildable core from the u-pull-it yard was $8.50 usa . now that was a lucky day side note, on newer stuff you want to inspect the slip rings before buying a rebuildable core. one slipring has higher resistance. it gets eaten up by the brush as a result

i lost circuits for running my car. in the city. after a nice bump. stood there gawkin under the hood talkin to her there was a multipin connector starting to come loose. sliding apart. it had a black sheath covering it to keep water out. reaching down by the main harnesses i caught hold of it and put a plastic tie on. encircled it between the wires on each half. restored the connection. and " vroom vroom" i have a 3K in a ke20, 74 in usa. i don't know every circuit it feeds, but they were mains. the sheath covered it so well i had to be standing and leaning in and turning my head to see it

here in the states they are all pretty much the same for 3K (.032") plug gap... conversion:1mm=.03937" i would operate the throttle and verify accellerator pump gives a squirt into the carb. then see if you can light a 12v light on the coil, one side should be on when the key is,dimmer but steady when cranking. the other side should be a flash when cranking. i have a 3K and when its done this after a long storage, i had to wirebrush the coil connectors and posts. when shiny and bright, and reassembled tight, i sprayed the two connections with battery protect spray. (blocks both 02 and H20) i substituted a plug wire used on the coil for a spark test to gnd. and ended up opening two sets of problem wires. ordered a new set from toyo dealer here $60. these last a lifetime. some aftermarket stuff can be no good right away. looking for 5k ohms per foot. as an ohmmeter check before installing. have a look in the cap for corrosion or burn thru. on mine i had corroded primary coil connections as the cause of no start. and since it had a flash during the primary test mentioned earlier, i just checked the poinnt gap. reassembled and it started. you may want to regap, .017" or, the thickness of an automotive razor blade from the bodyshop. on yours, i would tap the starter to get it to let go, then drive it to where i found the known good parts for the start-up cranking circuit. or, like mentioned by others, remove and bench test the starter, disassemble and clean, find the cause of why cranking continues (like a return spring on the drive, or spring between the relay solenoid and the throw-out lever) i always laugh at the simplicity of the design on these, and get to fix it quick needing very few parts. but if the spring lost it due to rust..... if i had no fuel present i would fix the starter first, then dribble some gas from a small appropriate container into the carb. see if it starts. if gas doesnt prime and come thru the idle circuit, goto the filter, then the pump. i have had to use spray carb clean to get the wax out of the valves,inside the pump. get them wet again, and get them cycling. blow back into the tank and see if it bubbles. evaluate. get the gas to flow freely from the tank by gravity into a container safe to do so. after learning what they do to our fuel where i live, i went to pull-it yard and snapped up a low psi electric fuel pump from another make with a carb. oem japanese pumps go "dibby dibby dup" instead of "Grrrrrrrrrowowowaaa" like new aftermarket ones do available here in the states come back to this thread and tell what you had on yours. dannyl