OdinNL

Hey guys, first post in a while because I got delayed a bit, Got the block/gearbox in using jordanrollas kit, bolted right up no problem, really happy about that ! the delay came mainly from the head, it turned out to be kinda worn out so I sent it over to an engine shop to get new valve seats/guides etc. So after a while I got to spend pretty much all of friday and saturday wrenching with a friend. Made good progress. got the head on, made fuel lines, finished up the carbs, fitted the ebay-extractors which turned out to clear the steering box perfectly but where kinda weird in that they touched the gearbox, which tells me the QC isnt that great but at least they fit. Old radiator doesnt fit with the 2T's fan on it, so I'm kinda on the fence between making a custom adapter to fit the fan without the fan clutch mechanism or just doing away with the mechanical fan all together and just switching to electric. what do you guys think ? All that remains is charging the battery (yeah forgot about that one), before I could make the engine turn over, and just the radiator remains before I could take it for its first drive. Exciting times. So thats pretty much how its all sitting at the moment. love to hear your ideas. gr. Odin

Working on some details, and while paint dried quickly mocked up the head. no idea if the header is gonna work, steering rack clearance and all.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/01/iamthespeedhunter-a-carbs-only-feast/ Good job man!

Yeah its been kinda quiet, but things are happening again, pulled the engine and sent the car off to get some rust sorted. Also thought it'd be fun to show you my workshed. I'm on mobile right now, so I'll fix the links later on : http://i.imgur.com/w0jLax8.jpg http://i.imgur.com/cycHp5a.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FV8FdQV.jpg http://i.imgur.com/f4G0nUr.jpg Cheers

Found it! had to rummage through miles of bookmarked pages, : http://forums.mightycarmods.com/showthread.php?1214-Puzzle-mans-Toyota-KE35

Hey guys, even though I haven't really gotten to that part yet, I found a forum post a while back somewhere. The guy just pretty much used the original pedal box, drilled a hole, sawed away some metal and tadaa, I'll see if I can find it

Managed to score some solexes and manifold, I'll post pics when I go to pick them up.

I'll give my parts guy a call see what he has laying around. Maybe the 2T-G solexes ? I rather have a bit less flow or response in exchange for ease of tuning to be honest. I'll let you guys know.

I got a guy for parts, has a nice collection of stuff. I go there for everything I need. I think he had some webers and mikuni's for sale a while back, but he can source anything. I was thinking about the mikuni's, or would you say webers are worth it. Greetz

Thanks for the replies guys! This 'll get me further. I'm still gathering some gear, there is a noticable bore lip, It 'll just about catch a nail. no parts stores here rent or loan tools so buying sometimes seems like the only option, but I'll probably take my block to the machine shop where i'll have the valve seats/valves matched. carbs I'm yet to open up, but I'm a little weary of the aisans, they seem so horribly complicated, but then again I don't have to take em apart completely. And I'm just cleaning the block now, Its covered in a weird dust/oil combination that will not dissolve, so scrubbing away at the moment.If the bores are clean and in spec, I'm considering to just leave it at cleaning the head and replacing crank/piston bearings. I'll update the swap topic soon.

Hey Guys. I've been on here a while now, very much enjoy looking at the builds, and learning from the discussions. I don't come from a family of mechanically talented people, and so most of my "skills" are self taught, in a shed with a haynes manual, If I told you my first fan belt change cost me something like 2 hours (stripped a couple bolts along the way, WD40 it up guys), you better believe it. But I've come a long way since then, and nowadays I'm more confident and skilled, but that doesn't mean I'm anything without proper instructions. I'm now prepping for my biggest adventure so far : an engine swap. changing the 3K to a 2T with a conversion set from Jordanrolla. At first I had my mind set on "just stuff it in there and drive", but over the course of the last few weeks, and with the winter season fast approaching (western europe) I've realised that my time could be better spent. opening everything up and inspecting has proven to be so much fun and interesting, that I'm looking into expanding the project a little further: giving the new 2T a good looking after, and making sure that when I roll out of the garage next spring, everything will be fresh and ready to go. So far things are looking up, bores are clean and smooth, bearings are 'used' but not scored or heavily marked. but here I notice my knowledge is lacking; what do I change, what do I check ? if I'm flipping through the manuals I see a lot of things, but I was hoping you guys could point me in the right direction. Now that I have time and the engine out of the car, what are the things to look at. Thanks guys. Odin

I'll try the link again, http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-RACING-MANIFOLD-HEADER-EXHAUST-74-82-TOYOTA-COROLLA-1-8L-3T-C-DLX-SR5-/381054585700?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58b89f8b64&vxp=mtr but if that doesnt work here's a pic : and if this is all bog, what is a brand I should go for ? My original one is 4-1

Hey guys, I was snooping around looking for some parts and ran across these : http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/74-82-TOYOTA-COROLLA-1-8L-3T-C-E70-STAINLESS-EXHAUST-CHROME-HEADER-GASKET-BOLTS-/170723423502?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AToyota&hash=item27bfe8b50e&vxp=mtr cheap ebay headers. Usually when something sounds too good to be true, it is. but I was still wondering if anyone had tried them. btw, 3T and 2T exhaust sizes are the same right ? greetings. Odin

just turned 18 when I bought my KE35, not a shred of regret a year and a half later so far.

Its a Denso one with external regulator.

Hey Guys, For a time now my charge warning light has been on, even though it has been holding nicely at 14.3 volts when running, changed out the alternator just to check (I had a spare around) but ofcourse that didn't work. should I be looking for broken cables ? what do you guys think. Gr. Odin

Do you know if the 3K sensors just plug into the 3T block ?

Hey man, I don't think it'd do any damage, if you go to the NKG website you'll find this under FAQ : "Q: When should I use a resistor spark plug? A: NGK "R" or resistor spark plugs use a 5k ohm ceramic resistor in the spark plug to suppress ignition noise generated during sparking. NGK strongly recommends using resistor spark plugs in any vehicle that uses on-board computer systems to monitor or control engine performance. This is because resistor spark plugs reduce electromagnetic interference with on-board electronics. They are also recommended on any vehicle that has other on-board electronic systems such as engine-management computers, two-way radios, GPS systems, depth finders or whenever recommended by the manufacturer. In fact, using a non-resistor plug in certain applications can actually cause the engine to suffer undesirable side effects such as an erratic idle, high-rpm misfire, engine run-on, power drop off at certain rpm levels and abnormal combustion." So I think if you just switch to normal plugs you should be fine. good luck

Hey Folks I've contacted a parts puller from the US to pull a crossmember from a salvage yard for me, but before I make final arrangements, I found a crossmember from a 83 corolla on ebay. anyone knows if that has the same dimensions as the TE37 ones ? thanks in advance. gr. Odin

the goods are in, but absolutely covered in some sort of weird grime that goes from oily to nearly stone in some places, got a lot of it with wire brush, I'll probably just put a power washer on the gearbox though. last step for now is finding a suitable crossmember, trying to get one out of the USA now.

I'll be looking at a TA22 2T-B and K50, so I'll be getting this underway sooner than I though possibly, first have to finish some school and vacation after that, something I should look at with extra attention ? telltale things and such. gr. Odin

I won't, Things are never as easy as they seem, so I'm trying to get a good picture, and its starting to form. I've seen your link before, I've used it as a reference to get a feel for the difficulty, there is another link, where the guy puts a 2T-G in his KE55, he's rather blunt about his methods, but it seems to work for him. I'll get the parts soon and only when I open it up will I get a proper view of the tasks, but I'm in no hurry, so it might take a while. http://ke55.1colony.com/ Grts. Odin

Thanks for the advice guys, the information I had previously had made it seem to me things would be simpler than it should have, I'll be on the look out for crossmember and pedal box info, to see what I need.

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I'm in mainland europe (holland) which never really got any 1600cc action, all we got were the 3K/4K's, luckily the Celica's were are common enough, so I should have little trouble finding what I can from that. I'll try to pry all the crossmembers from the donor TA, also I totally forgot about upgrading the front suspension, I'll talk to some guys. You were talking about a brake problem, what problems should I be having ? cause I can't really thing of anything.

Hello You guys might have seen me asking around for a K50 box to ship to the netherlands, but ultimately I decided that it just wouldn't be worth the trouble, and I'd be better of just going big, So I have decided it is time I perform my first engine swap (with help) As far as the car goes, I've got a KE35 with just the stock 3K-H and K40 gearbox, but because I just want to be able to get along with the traffic, and have a bit more fun, and because I just want to take on such a project, I quickly landed at the 2T-B paired with a T50 gearbox, these are (unlike the K50) quite common here because the celica did arrive in great numbers, 2T-G and 4AGE are out of the question simply because they don't go for less than 1500 euro (metric ʞ©$ɟton of AUD), but I could get a 2T-B and 5 speed, hydraulic clutch assembly, radiator and engine crossmember for a mere 450 euro, that 'll do. So now I'm just running through the list seeing if I've missed something, have I ? plan is as follows, as soon as I've got my little 50cc running again I'll have some transport and that 'll be the moment I start pulling the 3k and trans out of my car, as far as I can tell from previous builds (If you have, please share I feel like I can't get enough input on this) trouble is mainly reserved for the engine bay : - Engine crossmember to be moved - Trans crossmember to be adapted but the driveshaft and diff will remain stock. Only things to sort out : piece together a proper exhaust, make sure I don't run into my brake cylinder with the carbs and try not to irreversibly destroy anything. If any of you guys have got a tip or anything, please do share Greetings, Odin