Jierexx

Thanks for all the replies! Will take a look now this morning and try get a bit more wise about this. This repair kit, where to get hold on that? I'm from europe and seems like most of the things for this monster is on the austrailian market.

So having some problems with acceleration lag on My rolla, also a bit to high idle. The problem is when i go from cruising speed and go full gas, i get like a lag before the car starts to accelerate again. Possible to adjust the carburator and in that case how should I adjust it? Best regards

Okej guys!! Got the headlights to work after alot of switching cables here and there... Had been re-connected in the wrong way.. so much time working on the problem and changing some cables and relays and it started working. But still the alternator wont work. So guessing the regulator went faulty now when it have been connected with direct 12V on the wrong connections. But a solid state relay aint mechanical? So how to test if it work? Best regards Jeff

Here are the tail relay and the solid state. Both F and n from the alternator goes to the tail relay.

Fuses are checked and they are all fine. Have had the alternator on test and it charge great. Been following some cables from the alternator and the blue (N) and green (F) cabels both goes to the Tail Relay. If I bridge those cabels att the Tail Relay it clicks and the alternator starts charging. But it charges without control, after some time running it hit 17 V in to the battery and I shut it off. The Blue cabel (N) goes in to 4 places in to the Solid State Relay after the Tail Relay. Tail Relay clicks when the ignition is at off and I take the minus pol off and on from the battery. Have been reading some wiring diagrams and can't see that those cabels should go in to the tail relay at all... ? But that the only way the sockets fits, and they havnt been changed. Diagrams: http://home.swiftdsl...& 36 Wiring.jpg http://home.swiftdsl...36 Wiring 2.jpg I have also bridged passed the "Solid state" relay and then gets the headlights to light. That relay have direct 12 V from the battery and one bigger red cabel that goes to the head lights so that most have something to do with the headlights. So confused here... Cheers

After some more checking: Revers light works and brake lights. But those should go separately from the rest of the light system right? Can it be some earth problem here maybe?

Thanks! I Did get 12v in so that gives it that something in the alternator is bad. Can that have anything to do with that no lights are Working on the car? Have checked every damn cable but no tail lights or headbeams Will work... And the turn indicators just click and then stays on with a solid orange light instead of blinking. Geting really tired of this electronic shit... So I have 2 problems left til it is complete, - alternator, maybe a diod that got burn After the short circut. - and no outer-lights is Working besides a solid lighting turn signal. The hazard signal works tho. Thanks!

So just checked the incoming current to the alternator, I have 12,5V on N when ignition is on. So that wasnt the problem. And paying $ 200 for a new one is my last option so I guess I have no more to do than start to put it a part and test the diods? If someone is good on that subject here I would really appreciate a little "guiding" on what can be good to have in mind.

The inputs.

You are right! Denso 27020-24081. I'm located in Sweden... What I know of this is like the Only ke30 that are hiting our roads up here so we have no forum at all for this kind of cars... A friend just told me that I should check if there was voltage coming in to the alternator so it "goes on". Do you know which contact n or f that should have that? Or are he on Deep water? The local alternator store told me they could get a new for $200 and couldnt help me more than that....

So just a lite info update before I head of to the mechanic. Just tried to start the car after the night and it did just turn the starter around to start the car. Checked the voltage on the battery and it was down on 10 V from 12,3 V under just the night. Hope that can give someone more to go on.

The pic.

Well the mark is polished away but if someone can recognise what it is on the picture we can solve that. But I guess what ever it is I still need to get it to someone who can test it more then I can with a multimeter?

Thanks for the answer! I think it most be the Bosch one, its connected with 4 cables, 3 of them together in a socket. And can't se any parts placed on it on the outside. Sounds like a plan, Will take it to a mechanic later today. Will be back with more info.

Hi, Just re-assembled the engine after some maintance work. I got a short circut by misstake on the alternator when i was putting it back and now when everything is on its place again i saw that the charge lamp was lighting. Havnt done that before, and after checking the voltage on the battery it stays the same, around 12,3, when the car is off and when I start up the car. So seems like something have to be wrong with the alternator? Can the short circut have killed it? What to check? I know its hard for you to help with so little information but really need some help here. All the cables should be in the right place, well it can't be connected in any other way so. Its an ke30 -77 with 3k engine. Thanks..