Nebuchernezzer

I ended up getting a cheap banger but it's not a KE70 (or even carbied) so carby turbo is on the back burner for now. Excellent information here nontheless. Jarich

Where is the resistor pack located? I've not managed to fine any plug in fuse, i found one on a spare AE82 loom but i'm unable to locate anything similar on the AE86 loom. Thanks Jarich

I find using a hammer eaasier then using a guard roller personally. Just be carefull so you don't crack the paint on the outside of the guard when you do it (same with guard roller), useing a heatgun on the paint (but not to much heat) will help i'm told.

Thanks. I found some info on club 4AG this morning that might help me somewhat to. Got to go sit down with the diagrams and the car and see what i can sus out, i'm sure i'm only missing one or two wires to get it running.

While dad is busy painting his AE86 i'm finishing off the wiring for him. The conversion is AE82 bigport 4AGE into oz AE86. The engine loom is JDM AE86 but the ECU is from a oz spec AE82 (as far as i know any 16V ECU will do, just the maps differ). What we have working so far: Alternator Starter motor Ignition (get a nice beefy spark when turned over!) Fuel pump Having a few problems wiring up the injectors. Checking at the ECU pins the injectors have no power. I'm thinking that this yellow wire in this picture (the wire in the middle of the plug) is supposed to be connected to the ignition switch. With it connected to power i get the required voltage at the injector pins on the ECU with the ignition at ON. The voltage measured at the ECU on the injector wires falls off slowly when the ignition is turned off instead of just dropping to 0 instantly, seems odd but i don't know if it's good or bad. This is the ECU side of the plug by the way (JDM end). And this is the oz side of the plug as you can see the yellow and black and orange wires don't exist on this side (two empty holes). Anyways thats as far as i've managed to get. I guess my next course of action is to check the wires from the crank angle sensor to the ECU (2 wires). Also i would really like to know what the top wire in these photos is (black and orange wire), it's present on the JDM loom but not on the oz spec loom, do i need it for somthing? Also this is the location of the plug in the engine bay by the way, at the back there. JDM side to the right of the photo, oz side to the left. Also one final thing, the ECU plug is OEM on two of the plugs however the plug that connects to interior things like the dash etc has been left off, only the constant power, and the two main relays have been connected on it, am i missing anything there? There are a few pins which i'm unsure as to what they do. According to a post i made on toymods someone else had just the pins i have wired up here done on his car and it worked fine. However i'd like to confirm if possible. They are: Variable resistor (possibly for the fuel pump? i've wired the fuel pump up separately from the OEM setup. Fail safe relay. Circuit opening relay Warning lamp (check engine light?) Thanks Jarich

Lazyness is next to godliness IMHO :jamie:

Well if the reg has fuel return then that is that sorted, i'd rather use an external pump like a VL one mounted under the body somewhere.

Yeah that was my thoughts, the VL pump does have a little reg on it but i wasn't going to use it since i don't really know what it does, i could have a closer look and see though it might be somthing like that (which would be convenient). I guess the easiest way would be to run a reg that has two outlets for fuel, send one to the carby and one back to the tank or even just back to the line before the fuel pump. Not sure how else you would manage it though. Electric carby pumps don't back up like that?

Since external EFI pumps like the VL unit are so easy to get hold of thats why i was thinking of using one, they can probably hold 80-100psi happily, if i have to run a reg with a return thats fine with me. Main reason for going with a stock carb for me is that i'll be doing this for fun on an old banger, i don't want to spend a cent more then nessessary really. If it can get 60rwkw on the stock carb then i think that will do me just fine, I think that will be an adequate ammount of power. If i'm unhappy with that then i'll see if i have a 32/36 Weber at my parents place and look into that path. Rich off boost driving isn't too much of a concern since both myself and my girlfriend have nice daily drivers already. Since this will be our thrash car it'll probably spend most of it's life on boost, however if it's nice and easy to do i'll look into playing with the secondary air bleed instead of changing the primary jet. Doing the jet sounds easy as though.

Cool, everything is crystal clear now! Thanks Jarich Edit: i had another thought, would an EFI pump (which usually runs a line into and out of a fuel rail) like having it's flow restricted by a carby pressure reg (which just runs an in and out as far as i can see, no excess fuel return the to the tank). I'm wondering if since it'll only be moving a rather small ammount of fuel it might be just spending the rest of it's energy heating the fuel up? Running the pump on low voltage might help that somewhat. Or i could ditch the VL pump idea and just run a proper electric carby pump.

Funny you should say that, i've said exactly the same thing myself. I have had a look at an MX6 cooler before, if i can find one that'd be good, a 1GGTE stock cooler would probably be suitable as well. I'll probably just skip that step initially though. If a rising rate reg can only be had for $66 then i think rejetting the standard carb and running a rising rate reg with a spare EFI fuel pump (i have a VL one in the shed) would be my favoured option. All i need now is the rolla, i thought i had a KE70 lined up but it got sold 1 day before i got to it! Ah well the search goes on. Jarich Edit: What features does a reg need to have, i just had a quick squiz on ebay and finding an adjustable regulator for between 2-15psi is easy, however there isn't any mention of rising rate (is rising rate a normal feature on regulators or do they usually just regulate to a set ammount all the time?). I suspect rising rate is an added feature and all the cheap ones i can see for sale are straight rate.

Alternatively you could either cut and shut the existing arms (dodgy version) or (preferably) weld on another taper with gussets on it further down the arm. Same result minus the silly price tag. Some people probably don't like the idea of welding a casting though, it can be done in a structurally sound manner (depending somewhat on the casting itself) if you are game and have a good welder. I believe there is a kit for the FC3S RX7 that does just that but in bolt on form. Like so. I think Satoru Works makes aftermarket short arms to (probably even more expensive then ps arms).

Thanks, sounds good to me, i probably have a few 32/36 webbers around somewhere since i used to own a 2L Ford Escort RS2000. Making an adaptor plate wouldn't be to hard either. From what i've seen the proce of rising rate regs (at least the EFI ones) is prohibitive given the overall cost of the project (like $200+) so swapping the carb might be the way to go. Should i keep a stock carby is there any particular sizes that you would drill out the primary? Would you go up by say a percentage in size or just keep trying sizes until it seems to be running well with no detonation? Intercooler might be a do 'if i can get a core free' kind of thing, shouldn't be to hard to persuade a mate to part with a stock S13 intercooler for $0 :lolcry:. Thanks for your help :) Jarich

I wouldn't mind learning to do the tuning myself as well, every time i pay for work it's crap. Main thing i'm wondering is how mixtures are checked? Wideband o2 sensor? I'd like to think i'm mechanically skilled, i've done an engine swap, IRS conversion and so on in the past on my old S12 Gazelle. It's about time I learnt somthing new :lolcry:.

Fair enough, looking at the photos of what others have done it's going to be a 5 minute job to route in water to the turbo if it's required anyways :lolcry:.