camerondownunder88

Friday arvo?? Mot work places finish early (eg me at 12). So arvo session think suit then people can spend Friday night how they want to. Cam

Could get a set of factory steel wheels for it and get them widened to take some fat tires. Rims stock but wide for more grip. Can be done heard it was about $60a rim to be done takes 2 rims to make one wider stock one. Cam

Just a note for reference: Stock pump running specs are: 900cc/min @ 0.2 ~ 0.3kg/cm3 Cameron

Might try to aim to get the ke15 there for the extravaganza.

Spose I should post..LOL 4K and 5K dished piston heads are the same I got a few of both. Dished piston heads have a better combustion chamber adn my dissed piston 4K jsut went so much harder than a regular 4K so use one of them for a N/A motor build that would be my choice. Also welsh plug head is a big port head. Pending model it came off the big port head could have smaller valves and be shaved more. K-B motors or 3k-B had a higher compression big port head. So will pay to CC the head to find out. Also flat top pistons stock. And dished pistons aren't uber rare but worth it when you get a motor that is dished as more killer wasps to use. Cameron

^^^ mate my KE15 instead of cast brackets it had pressed and folded sheet metal ones that cleared the steering parts. So try to get them. But I am sure if you left one off it wouldn't hurt. Cam

Height gain was decent. I mean if your running side draft why not get amount for free and go. But as Felix said extractors. I had a stock exhaust and then pacemaker extractors and all hit with that mount but JUST. So small bent and your out of woods. Worth doing put a jack under gearbox to support it then a bottle jack on alt mount jack at alt then undo stock mount jack more slide in ke55 one takes 10min to change and you will see difference. Cameron

Hi, Just got a set for my car wanting to clean them up make them nice. Just wondering what other people have done to there csx rims to spruce them up eg paint wise or polish or anything looking for pictures for ideas. Cheers Cameron

Is an old school cresida has the 7000$ (well punds) written on front window. The guy from Tas on here owns exact same car is in the rides thread forget his user name..lol But old school Toyota yes. Cameron

Once I was looking at a fuel rail for a ca20 motor and between each injector on the rail there was enough room to cut tap a thread etc. So if you got a 3S rail cut out the holes the injectors seal in and weld them to some aluminum pipe OR cut a thread and join with a piece of pipe the right length would be a DIY fuel rail made easy. Saves machine work. But would need a TIG welder for the aluminum. Cameron

How can this car have teething issues..LOL Everything is been done... But I suppose it was like the first 4age motor it crapped its self happens. Well not long now it should be on a cruise :S

If you run original KE1X gear box and a 5K will need to install early flex plate and flywheel to the 5K motor. Also use original mounts OR if you want to up right the motor more run KE55 exhaust side mount. Also if 5K has a van sump will need massaging to fit. Also I had some issues with extractors, stock exhaust manifold for awhile getting them to fit a KE1X with a 5K. Pipes hit or didn't match up. In the end a set of Pacemaker 4-1 extractors fit BUT if you run a late model starter you need to remove the heat shield. And the inside runner JUST touches the gear box in front of a starter also. But they fit..lol Also KE1X auto car shells have a bigger trans tunnel :S So if yours was auto ke70 5 speed fits with no hammering. If it is a manual tunnel thins at rear so the spring return things in the back of a KE70 gear box will hit. Also need to run ke1X water pump on 5K or it will hit radiator. When I put my 5K in my ke15 I had issues with running stock alternator and stock water pump pulley and a 5K crank pulley. 5K crank one is larger so normal belt wont fit. 5K fan belt had the latter alternator with internal reg and bigger pulley so with a KE1X alt on the 5K ke1X fan belt to short, 5K fan belt to long. I eventually found the right one forget part number but so can have issues there. Other wise is kinda bolt in fun. Also I put the lack of KE1X pollution gear on my 5K....Because I could up to you what you do there but. Cameron

HAHA I like K motors cause there simple..LOL A twit who sits in an office all day can fix one I get my brain overloaded fixing real engineering at work so I like K motors for being simple. Agree with Felix but die grinder and casting flash get rid of it. I have a 5K head at home huge amount on it where oil drains back so worth starting there also. And if your oil is rushing to the back of the head and sump when you up right the motor oil will still rush backwards in the sump. So I would still install baffles as if motor is out id work on the lot down there and make it all work properly. Cameron

Justin the TRD upright K motor had a gear box with a 30 degree off set bell housing cast on it in my TRD book. So gear box still sat flat.

Archerfield ROCKS best place by far for karts...AVOID willowbank karting SUCKS like a vacuume and 2 stroke karts are cool :hmm: Cameron

Hi, Yep ^^ I drew those cad drawings... Simple to make can do one on a drill out of some plate steel..LOL Got a few projects on the go I might strill do this one day. But one con about it is some diffs the spider gears require grinding flat for a surface area. Think corolla needed this have to check again. This I didnt want to do affect metal temper from heat less metal weaker if not flat wont work well etc list goes on. Could lathe it down but most here can't access a lathe. Also spring tension affects it load it RIGHT up will be like weld not to heavy wont notice so getting spring strength would be a bit of a screw about so another draw back. Also pro was cheap, could be fun etc. Also another con was they will act as locker in car parks at speed and that etc not really they help to get both spinning that is it not really strong enough to get both going if all the time if you have low tension springs big tyes etc. As for springs local mob in Brisbane I think on 100 springs would be $0.30 each think it was. if I wanted like 4 springs but was about $50 lol do maths worked out really odd. BUT I blew up a clutch while I was designing this and well the clutch springs in center of it are hard, right size and good near heat and spinning and flat ends. So use clutch springs :rocknroll: Also drawing is easy if I still got it gone through many formats ill email the cad drawing I rendered it so it looked 3d and good think i got iso drawing around still maybe. Also jap and borg diffs were different sizes os would need 2 designs for a rolla. I am kinda sitting on this project I haven't thrown it out but I go SO much on the go in way of projects I jsut can't get to this one yet but one day i will. Cameron

Ill see if I can dig up the dyno sheet. But why run mitsabushi valves when a little know secret is a bored 3K then re cut valve seats you can run stock K motor inlet valve as exhaust one and then intake think it is a gemini one that fits and whulah HUGE valves big port job flows good and only have to buy 4 valves as if old intake ones are good can be reused :rocknroll: Camron

Yeah I was going to pump out a few from my work shop..lost intrest due to so many negatives of them and all. But I had metal springs etc and prices to bulk buy custom mades springs the lot jsut lost interest. Easy to do could really do with hand tools adn a drill at home if your keen. Cameron

Yeah big port early ones have smaller valves but...And if your picky a lot of difference in port shape from JDM dished piston motors like 4K/5K compaired ot normal K motor heads.

Gotta add again.... Ben not actually 150E Toyota names this engine the 137E... Now ALL part in that motor apart from head and fuel setup are normal 3K TRD parts...got pics and part numbers of the lot. BUT the cam has HUGE bearings crank has bigger bearings oil pump removed dry sump installed etc. If you had the cash you can get all those TRD parts and make it and some of those heads still exist BUT the cash you would need your year 12 high school job wont get it for you. Below is a picture of the TRD 3K/3K-R/137E crank...Guy paid $2000 for it and got it shipped here. That is for 1 part don't start on price of the rest. I have seen dizzys, dry sump stuff etc turn up for thee motors but rare... So I wouldn't bother looking for a motor most were made and lots of parts were made but the heads not many were made and most were killed in racing so you know rare. Also TRD pistons have racing rings on them would chew oil on the road and bored so big motor wouldn't get long before it would break. Cameorn

HAHA Reminds me of when I do engine changes WD-40 is handy and I find spray that on those dirty hand marks on the cars panels mark starts running I use it to clean panels also cleans and shines. But I polished some panels in WD-40 I found a tad of residue and honestly I think it affected the paint a bit. So be cautious with WD40 but for removing dirt off car use it all the time then clean that spot. But I like cooking oil idea will try that one day :yes:

If you run KE70 brakes on the front of a KE1X use original hub and keep the original stud pattern :yes:

Hi, Id give up your hopes and dreams. Only cross flow head was 3K-R and if you were keen had a block of billet metal make your own cylinder head. But 3K-R I saw a guy the other week pay $2000 JSUT for the crank out of one unused new as NOS part. TRD actually made a lot of 3k-r shit for KP61 racing cars in japan parts arent to rare BUT cost a lot..lol Also 3K-R crank runs larger bearings and some a flat toothed belt to drive cam/ fuel control etc so it will only fit with a shit load of mods to a stock 3K also. Cameron

Sweet jsut removed all welsch plugs from 5K so ill look into this :hmm:

Found the bastard email... "A mate/customer just dropped by with his dyno sheet from a little 3K toyo I built a while back, he only had a copy on his phone but is dropping it back later - so I'll post it then. It's a 1300cc 3K toyota engine, re-ring, stock pistons, stock crank, stock rod bolts etc, pistons have been de-compressed slightly (can't remember compression). Head has stock valves, good seats, a decent port job & double valve springs, cam is an old NA grind I had laying around. Stock mains bolts, stock head bolts etc. Exhaust manifold is a dodgy steam pipe jigger with an RB25 T3 turbo wedged on the end. It's draw through with a 1.75CD stromberg carb, no intercooler. Ignition is the original points dissy. On Avgas it made 166rwkw (225rwhp) on 19psi boost with 10:1 AFR's & conservative timing." Not to shabby pretty much stock 3K so HP can be made. Steer clear of 4K blocks to noticed other day had a 5K 4K and 3K lined up 4K had thinnest cast of lot so weaker i dare say. And my bad was thinking of another hot 3K with the bigger vlves I speak of. It was also HIGH HP. So do it right mix parts right K power can be had with boost..research research research before build. THen you will be happy and save a $ or 2. Quick note....this guy at 19PSI after about 6 months driving hard always broke ring lands. So if you use after market ones you will over come that. So old stock pistons expect to break ring lands not if but WHEN....