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Everything posted by camerondownunder88
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http://www.rarespares.net.au/Parts-Accessories.aspx They do a heap of rust repair panels for KE2X and upwards. I my self haven't seen much for KE1X in my travels. But as Tally said on ebay a few pop up other week there were NOS KE1X guards on evil bay. Cameron
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I have had similar thing happen to me. Drove for a week the first time thinking I blew a gear or something in my gear box. Again similar stuff started to happen to me after a bit of a flog. Eventually it gave way..The clutch that is. What happened the plate with the springs all the metal tabs that rivit it to the fibre part snapped so the clutch center was spinning inside the fibre part that gets gripped by the flywheel and pressure plate. Now I was able to drive as after a few clucks some tabs gripped this went on for a week till it all wore away. Ended up smashing pressure plate to. Fixed it. Then after a flog 6 months later hard in a paddock. Same thing happen only this time all I got was a light shudder in clutch pedal. then one day driving up a hill accelerating in 3rd on way home from work revs just hit the red on the tacho and I started slowing down. This is a problem I have experienced. Always happened when using heavy duty clutch and a stock clutch. So could be the clutch. Only way to know but is to remove the gear box but :S Cheers Cameron EDIT: The tin can noise also happened to me on the first time the clutch came apaart on take off and gear change cause you were taking pressure off the clutch so it took a bit for the tabs to engage again. But on high way normal road after I got going in a gear I couldn't hear anything.
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HEHE hint why use stock K motor crank bolts to hold it on. If you look 4age crank bolts are the same as K motor. ARP make a set of nice bolts strong as for 4age flywheel to crank can buy them bolt into a K motor no worries and nice and strong and peace of mind to. Another thing you can also do while flywheel is off send clutch to the machine shop also with it and get them to balance it together. Did this on a TA22 much nicer clutch plate is marked so you can always install the clutch the same way to keep the balance so also another idea you might do while the flywheel is off. Cameron
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I have never heard of this shop. Does he deal in many KE1X parts? Can we get a contact number? Cheers Cameron
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^^ Your exactly right NO planned mods..LOL Spur of the moment things I bet after driving such a nice car can't help but make it nicer..LOL
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Hi, The difference also in a K motor clutch is early KE1X and 2X flywheels have a 2 dowel mount for the pressure plate. Later KE30 to 70 has 3 dowel pins to locate it. Also on the early flywheel it has a different pressure plate and smaller gear box input spline can't mix a early pressure plate with late model clutch plate. Also between KE10 ad a KE15/7 sprinter the KE15/17 got a higher clutch binding pressure was like 60 lbs tighter so the clutch slipped less. Also another difference. There are actually quite a few differences in the K motor flywheel when you look from the start to KE70 and the vans. Cameron
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run the 4K-u any day goes harder they have better exhaust ports over a 4K-c and better valves and are a nicer package. But all the dished piston 4K I have had are single row timing chain so look into swapping that to dual. Cameron
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JUN in Japan make a K motor light flywheel retail for $1200 can get off there web page. As for cam I go to a cam grinder in Brisbane $100 I supply cam he grinds to what ever I want bang it back in the car easy. So if a machine shop can lighten one for $50 then cam is $100 should be cheap mods easy to do. Also below are some photos of swiss cheese I found a picture of. Is a stock flywheel for a K motor lightened etc. This was run on a 5K with SC14 only ran because a blower acts like a flywheel other wise it was so light the motor pretty much didn't run. Was a mean machine photos below of front and back of flywheel. It was cad plated after machining. Cameron
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Very nice always like this type of car. Must ask what importer did you go through to get it? Did you happen to use prestige motor sport? Cameron
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Clutch forks are different between K40 adn K50 can cause major issues. Think it is the later KE70 K50 that is a fair amount different and causes issues.
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^^ MMM so electronics need the work hey. Well the experiment I saw used room temp disc yeah worked ok. Then cooled it in liquid Nitrogen OMG stopped friggin fast so I know keeping disc cool can help but for your purpose I am sure it wont matter to much.
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MMM that isnt varnish mate thats the smell of progress :) Well any left over microwaves ill take as ummm need a new spot welder :yak: Also might be hard but from past experimenting the cooler it is the better the braking effect. is there some way you can chill the disc? How big was the disc rotor just a small one or large? Cam
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Ha..Not many of these get around but if I am right that is my old Boss's car. He owns at last count 9 domino's Pizza shops..LOL Pretty much every shop in Ipswich and some in the city. He has had the tacho fixed 3 times as apparently his needle keeps coming off when it hits red line. He drives hard. Managed to kill his last 350Z car in 12months and he used it as a trade in on this car.
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^^ Data logger hey... Can you share info brand inputs analogue or digital etc? I am in the market for one need about 6 analouge inputs etc. But mate who made a dyno made a Prony Brake style dynamometer. He made a steel drum attached to the output shaft of his engine. He cut up old brake linings and made a custom brake pad for it. On the top he used a pneumatic cylinder that he can vary with air pressure remotely. To the sides of the custom brake pads he made he attached steel rods that go down to a set of fish scales. These give him accuracy to 5% and he added water mist spray to the drum hub to help with cooling etc. He has input up to 14,000RPM into this setup of his and never failed or anything so good system. Pic below: And what he does is ballances the drag of the brake with RPM or power turbine and gets his torque reading off the spring scale. Then just sub that into a basic horsepower calculation: Horsepower = Torque (in lb-ft) x RPM / 5,252 He got an accurate reading. Also the rods off the side of it are 12 inches long to make calculations easier. Cameron
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Ok air dyno output haft BIG ASS FAN turn fast. But If I can ill get pictures of the air dyno at my work handles 2000+HP all day and it is just a BIG BIG fan well more like a paddle steamer boat the fan dlades are FLAT..LOL So ill see what I can do there for you. Now maths for moving air is pretty easy fan dyno could be an idea and could be done ghetto. Another idea is drive a compressor. Now after some maths you can calculate the shaft HP used to drive a centrifugal compressor. Not build a gear box say 1:15 so you step up say 6000RPM motor to 90,000RPM and drive a compressor that has to push air through an orriface so it makes pressure then it is piss easy to find horse power the compressor is using etc. Now for an idea from memory to spin my compressor in my engine it is 217HP at 80,000RPM making 35 PSI proba bit of an advanced way of doing it but could be ghetto built eg balance rotor and shaft on glass etc can be done. As I said weird idea but would work just depends on the amount of moeny effort etc going into this. Will dyno be used more than once could be cheaper to pay some one? Cameron
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Mate of mine built his own engine dyno to test his jet engine using the brake method. Worked well adn readins were spot on after the maths can be done is accurate. Mate did use a drum brake but he said calculations were easier. But I am sure for you disc or drum you could cope with the maths. Or what about a air dyno or an electric generator and load it up? Just ideas. Cameron
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Just found the KE15 you got very nice would go hard with a 3T but can't beat a K motor SL spec and fully restored like your idea pic in the for sale thread.
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^^ WOO HOO where u pick uit up from get some pics up love these cars :D SL or SE etc??
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Limited Slip Without Changing Housing
camerondownunder88 replied to kangaroosa's topic in Automotive Discussion
Just adding I don't think the plates touching the spider gears will do much. The plates contact the diff axle gears all the time and the plate should be in the center and under load 100% of time. If it did slide the spider gear would just wear the plate a bit the plates are alloy. So no damage I think could occur. one thing you have to look at is surface the plates contact the axle gears on. On some diffs they will need machining on the gears (the USA maker of these uses a bench grinder..LOL) So I haven't bothered to look in my rolla diff but just watch out for that. Get as much surface area as possible there and flat as. Cam -
Hi Gav, Now that is what I want my KE15 to look like one day....... But as for the interior can I get a few pics of how you cut the center console for the gear shifter to go through further back than stock. Id like a 5 speed in my KE15 but don't want the hole to become a mess or lose my center console. Also that aluminum plate thing besides your clutch pedal on the side of the trans tunnel is that to stop carpet wear was it after market new etc? Very interested in this parts history./ Cheers Cameron
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First thing to do is remove the leaf spring. It is really an old school sway bar. Whiteline make one for a KE1X range $206 at super cheap a few weeks back. Then you can lower it by fitting KE20 strut tops. That will get it lower and handle WAY better. Also can fill the shocks in the front struts if there the original oil and valve type ones still with a heavier weight oil will give a harder ride. Old tunning trick was to put engine on in them. Cheers Cameron
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Hi, I will back up Felix statment about KE1X ratios. I got more sprinter manuals in mail today and the KE15,17 had 4.22:1 ratio diff. The later KE2X car had 4.1:1 ratio as it advertises the fact in my manuals that the KE2X has higher top speed lower revs yada yada. Also KE1X wagons have 4.44:1 also as Felix said. So Gav if your KE17 is a 4.1:1 is it the original diff still? Cameron
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Ah so motor was touched upa little I see. Also can we get some pictures of the front struts at all? Sounds like a mean setup. What coil overs arae used custom jobs? I just put heavier oil in my stock KE15 struts to give it a stiffer ride..LOL Cameron
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103HP in that little car must MOTOR :) Not bad for a van motor with webbers and MSD on it. Any other motor mods planned? eg cam, lifters, valves etc? Also you still run the transverse leaf spring or you get rid of that in your car? As just saw the post about painting bits and was curious if you took it out. Cameron
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Actually Ben I know KE1X series a ADM option from the dealer was a VDO tacho dash mounted. So possibly could of got that in KE2X also? Also in an old mag I have one dealership in Sydney in the day had a sports pack rolla that had tacho, extractors, twin carbs, could get black GT stripes, and big port cylinder head for extra $$ so pending how you look at it. Extractors and tacho can be factory.....not sure if it SL model only but.