camerondownunder88

This applies to choppers also I see them come in broken every second day not in media but. And over seas maintenance in some places isn't that bad.

MM good info there Irokin. Something to consider. But rang a few tire shops in Ipswich and 4 plastic ones are sub $20 rang so should be able to find a set on the weekend. The main reason I want to use them is A) center the wheel and B) The stud holes on these rims are slightly out of round now due to there previous life and that so I want them to sit straight on the car again as with no spacers the rims slopped about and were just on plain wrong due to holes all wanting to push the rims in a different position. But As Rob said they never fell off his car when he had them so I should be right just a bit of locktie in the nuts and I'm off. But another good thing about these rims there real magnesium so light as so not as much force on the studs as before with stock heavier steel rims. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Styler you always seem to have an awesome answer to any problem. Ill Google the rings ASAP. I think I will sway to the metal rings and get some anti seize on them and use them. Not a fan of plastic. I was going to use metal I got from work and the work machine to make them but this could save a lot of time. But out of interest I found a stock KE15 wheel 12inch uses a 0.100mm clearance on the spigot. So that leaves 0.050mm clearance radial on the spigot so if your making some this would be a good fit to achieve I would imagine. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Kickn5K Just curious did you happen to use my how to fit a sigma aircon pulley to a SC12/14 blower article on here? As I have a SC14 with that pulley I used on that post on my blower if yours is the same pulley that is what I can expect then. Also my sigma pulley has 2 belt grooves for a V belt does yours? And 5kpanelvan what size is that "big" Jag SU you used and also what tunning was needed for it to all go on the car when it was on was the SU just right for the K motor? Cheers Cameron

^^ YES HOORRRAA that is the name of that mag on the north side :) Ill ebay a few now I think they weren't a to bad mag. :D THANKS. Also you have a PM..... Cameron

Hi, Looks like a good mag I might sign up. There used to be a guy on the north side of brisbane who wrote his own colour mag with similar name off his own back all on restored jap cars. He always featured a lot of KE15's..LOL Now and then I have seen his mags on ebay but I can't for the life of me remember the title of his atm. Cameron

^^^ EXACTLY WHAT I'm DOING :D Can you ask your dad what tolerance he made these to. I plan to do the same so they fit nice and neat in the rim paint them to suit exact rim color and then it is safer and will kinda be hidden so for the RWC no questions will hopefully be asked. Cheers Cameron

Hi, In the process of mucking around with a set of mags for me KE15 sprinter and need some information. Now I know it is illegal to run rims that have a larger center hole than what your hub does. As it needs to be contacting this to transfer load though the hub and not the bolts attaching the wheel to the hub. Now the question is the center hole in a car rim what is the size difference/ industry standard for fit. EG is the hub on the car 60mm then the wheel 60.01 or a tighter fit or a looser fit. I'm looking into getting some inserts machined up for my rims and pressed into the rim to reduce the hole size but I need to work out a good size for the inserts to be machined to. As if the hole is to small the rim will lock on when I go to remove it if it is to loose well kinda pointless having the insert as it wouldn't touch the hub. Reason I'm going to this trouble is the rims are fairly special so I want to use them rain hail or shine so just searching for information on wheel fitment first. Cheers Cameron

stock ke10 runs a 4.222:1 ratio.

Hi, Yeah I had a 4K do this to me in a KE70 one day. Local machine shop told me if I clean the head supply parts and have it ready for him to just grind seats (3 angle job I asked for) and then reassemble he would charge $50 for a simple 8 valve head. So contact parts supplier Taz told you about and then possibly clean head your self if you can blast it and should be quite a cheap job. Cheers Cameron

Have you swapped your timing chain cover at all? Between K motors the degree markings on them move wrong cover for your K motor will screw your timing. Also I wind mine to TDC cylinder 1 and slide pulley on the timing mark that is on the pulley that aligns with the cover is the one you want. Cameron

Brakes can be rebuilt at home. Last set of brakes I did was $50 for the rebuild kit for a KE55-70 girlock caliper some beer few hours. DONE. Bolt onto car easy. Have a go your self mate. You have a few cars jsut temp. drive anopther around. Also tie rod ends are critical id do them ASAP and get a shop to do it pedders is doing mine ATM and tie rod end is $25 at pedders and wheel alignment is cheap. Cameron

4 gears are used to drive the cam shaft on a TRD motor. 2 idlers 1 one cam 1 on crank. Was the weak point they actually had issues with them breaking. Also TRD used 2 types of oil coolers a belt driven pump or one that bolted to the front of the cam shaft and came out the timing chain cover and was a pump. Also the oil cooler can be complimented by the TRD dry sump was one for sale in NZ just a few weeks back for a pretty penny :yes: Also 4K TRD motor hand book like this 3K one doesn't really exist. But get a copy of the TRD parts catalog and it list 3K TRd and 4K TRD parts. Motor again is same the TRD 4K parts stage 1,2,3. never really existed only done for 4K. My TRD parts catalog only list 3K but a lot fits 4k,5k, etc.

Hi, I have seen some KE1X cars with KE20 front suspension/ struts and all fitted. can't BE DONE. Bit of stuffing around but can be done so anything that fits a KE2X that makes them larger should be able to be fitted into a KE1X car if your keen enough Cameron

out of all my cranks sitting standing on flywheels in my shed (4K-e, 5K, 3K, and 4k) All use the same bearing size just the stroke changes so need a 4K crank in a 5K etc. Cameron

Good luck trying to find the TRD pistons..LOL UMM RARE AS. Also a lot in this motor changes eg: The cam shaft GETS WAY bigger bearings and is a larger shaft so not easy also the cam is driven through a set of gears not a chain. so hard to build this motor to spec form. Cameron

4K-U also has better valves :y: and exhaust ports are better and have the push rod all 5K solid converters chase. Also they have a different timing chain dampener and the end bearing on the cam is different and the sump on mine was also different to a normal K motor. They are a fairly spiffy K motor and are a good base for mods etc. Cameron

Hate to disappoint Jip....Not original stereo...Also CD player below isn't original..LOL But she has an under dash KE1X shelf..I want....all ones I have ever been able to get were water damaged :y: Cameron

Cruise to Byron to watch sun come up in summer..

CAUTION... If you use 3F solid lifters in a 5K you can't use datto rods WAY TO SHORT.. Just get chev solids datto lifters. If you do go 3F way like I did 4kc push rods fit straight in......After slight mods and mods to rockers. Cheers Cameron

If a KE70 struggles to fit a CA gearbox in its tunnel then ke11 will need work. Auto KE1X tunnels are bigger but I know that a manual KE1X tunnel needs a hammer onn a few parts to make a KE70 5 speed fit. So CA box major tunnel mod id say to get it in there. Cameron

Would of Been a K (oneK) motor. On the top slant bit of the fire wall should be a small metal plate 4 attaching screws in the dead centre. That will have the original engine. Some sprinters were single carby (pretty sure yours was) others were twin carby. Got any interior dash shots or engine bay pictures we can see? Cameron

I stopped trying to get cash together once for Q ride. Got a private road lesson etc got Bike L's etc But lost interest really to slow. But rode a few bikes on the quiet :D and R6 is my fav But and R1 is also nice. Yamaha range I am a fan of. Just remember planning on riding often to say work...Sports bikes your very hunched over can get uncomfy. But if your not who cares sports bike all the way.

Cool you have an early one. Should of guess front the front apron lights also you got all clear. Late 1969 + Sprinters I believe also only got the indicator front and half clear lights on the apron. What engine was originally in yours? K-B or just a K motor? Cameron

To identify ur sprinter easy.... KE15 000001 to 150000 ar 1967 to end of 1968 KE15 150001 to KE17 000001 are 1969 till 1970 when production ceased. That should help. The cars VIN number I am referring to. Should be on fire wall next to the plate that has the engine info etc on it. Cameron