camerondownunder88

Dizzy are a whole issue to them self..LOL A points dizzy will bolt on go with the car will need more maintenance yes but very basic very reliable. But Eleci dizzy put on go forget kinda...GT40R coils blow them up you MUST have a non resistor coil Coils with resistors run lower voltage the dizzy powers off this the 2 little wires you connect. They then run at a lower power and die seen many a dead one. So if you put a eleci dizzy in change the coil to non resistor type. Also Some eleci dizzy I have had gave more torque down low so I stripped one to find slightly different weights in the dizzy (was out a van) So I presumed the van prob has a different curve in them for more torque down low. So putting an electric dizzy n can also VERY slightly change the out put of the motor. Dizzy in a K motor can go forever on that topic. Personally id stick with points buy the Jaycar MSD kit and points wear only ever 6months due to the cam part no the spark wearing it out and then you get up to 6 sparks per fire and it is cheap. Choice, choices, choices.... FYI. I ran a 5K in a KE30 pulled it out swapped the cam dropped it into my KE15 no issues (well exhaust didnt fit but again KE1X problem and was due to bigger motor in height but I got extractors now to fix this) so you should have NO issues mate. Cameron

Hi, I own aa KE15 and plan to buy the whiteline kit one day. I got to drive in a KE15 also with a white line sway bar and the transverse leaf had been removed. Handled fine. The Transverse leaf was the old way of thinking/ trying to make a sway bar like part and also to take some weight. In this KE15 I was told with both in the light car when cornering hard would lift the inner rear wheel and then smoke it 100m up the street. After the leaf was removed handled better and rear wheel didn't come off the ground. This car also had KE20 tops on the struts so it sat lower also I think to get the best results make it lower and use this kit with a removed sway bar. Cheers Cameron

Option 1 that is the place. Couldnt think of the name well I saw ur rolla there. Also a HOT as fluro yellow KE35 that is there from time to time with RC sticker on it yellow sticker to HOT AS Cameron

Didnt spot a single rolla at the wreckers on Lobb st in Ipswich The wrecker is: BONANZA wrecking. So I asked for a Toyota van with a K motor NOTHING :) He told me he gets them in from time to time if there there 1 week there then cubed. He wont keep them they don't sell. So don't really bother going there and he is also very high on his prices. BUT here is his good side if he has a KE/AE71 in he will sell the whole car for about $200. Mate got an AE71 there $200 drove it home was straight as and neat as also so if your lucky to get a KE there well you don't need much cash. As currently wreckers are getting NOTHING for scrap metal so you currently have HEAPS of bargaining power to get a whole cheap car. But his average prices are: $5 for any ignition coil. $20 for a thermo switch (they retail for $80+ at super crap) $40 for a huge thermo fan off a VS dunny door I got for my KE30 is like 16inch. He does smaller fans for cheaper. Cameron

Piss up for me in Ippy. jagermeiser and condensed milk shots (give it a go REALLY NICE) all night :) and swimming b4 then just what ever after way to many shots.

Now that is what I'm talking about try to post the number plates people :) Also 553 FCC parks out the front of Yamanto (Ipswich) police station during most nights thats its home. They have a Honda undercover civic there also plate is close to this one. Ill try to grab it on my next drive past and get its number.

Funny that I was crusin around Spring wood today SJ but it wasn't me you saw I was in a "shudder" Kia :lmao: But went half way around SEQ today and drove past Jips front door saw his coupe SL2 under a cover V NICE :) Cameron P.S. 08ftw I believe I see you regular some weeks and do u go to that car place near P&O cruise liners near Hamilton?Always see rollas there with RC stickers on them

THANKS :lmao: Cheers for that Matt. Yes I know title of thread probably confused people a bit but my bad..LOL I need to know this as I plan to get a thermo switch to turn on a thermo fan in my KE30 and need to know the thread type so i can select the correct one. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Just wanting to know does anyone know the thread type in a K motor thermostat housing at all? Just need to know if it is like a M16 X 1.5 or something so I can install a switch in my car. Cheers Cameron

Spotted a white KE70 heading into city on western free way near towong round about. Had stickers on rear window RC sticker was red. Cameron

Silver Honda civic In Ipswich and a blue SS commodore with factory mags and factory skirts hangs around Brisbane International airport. Purple XR6 turbo also hangs around Ipswich. I drive past the cop shop everyday ill have to try to snap pics of there cars so we know what they look like so we can keep our eye out. Cameron

Hi, Si I once got a set of brakes off a KE70 panel van that were Sumitomo calipers so maybe a few made it through. Cameron

I will look tomorrow on the timing mark difference but just engrave a new one in it to adjust it if necessary. Off top of my head think it was about 10 degrees difference makes tuning interesting first start..LOL

I have seen a SC14 run constantly at 14PSI. Soon as it went to 15 it started loosing the Teflon coating on the rotors. This makes the tight seal so I wouldn't push one past 14 PSI my self but to have longevity id go max of about 11 PSI ish Also 12-13,000 RPM is correct. Cameron

BE CAREFULL..... Timing marks DO vary across K motor pullies and you might throw your timing out depending on what you do. Also doing the pullies swap can really muck up fan belt selection. I run a 5K stock pullie, nissan altornator, on stock water pump and took me for ever to find the right fan belt. But all I know is my length I use is 33 inches...LOL So can swap yes but watch for timing marks.

Hi, Spent the other night in the shed with a razor peeling off a few old stickers I have off a KE1X bonnet and a twin carby air filter I have off a KE1X twin carby air filter box. So I popped them on the scanner and scanned them into the computer as is. Now My idea is to photo shop them so they look NEW and get them re-made so I can stick them on my KE15 so it looks spiffy. Now problem is I can't photo shop don't have the software or know how. So I have posted the scans of the stickers below in high-ish quality and was curious could some one photo shop them so they look new and post them back up? But we don't have to stop here if you have a complete sticker etc post it up and we can slowly photo shop them and we can all print them off when needed to make our rollas that one step closer to looking factory. Cheers Cameron Scans below:

^^ Does this mean you will believe and do most things people say??? Ethanol we use it in my dads 1929 chev which is fully restored and stock. No problems. I run it in my car no issues. E10 is fine wont harm it E85 but is different story. As if you hear all the bad and never good you don't get the full picture and well only affects you. Read the posts above and below now. You must tune your car to run E10 properly. You will prob get worse economy and power when your tuned to petrol and not E10 mix. I'm all for E10 in a way. More boost :D BUT one thing the US is having troubles with ATM if you read a lot. There now snapping up food crops to make ethanol fuel. This is actually causing a problem in places where they can't buy food. In a national geographic a few editions ago they had a town n the USA fuel company use corn grown there to make fuel. EVERY CROP the town now imports corn and it is the biggest corn grower and now can't be obtained there stupid. So if we all go E10 there will have to be more farmers and crops or this will be more wide spread. Also since it absorbs water out the air you also need to rust proof the inside of your fuel tank this is often looked past on old cars as there just a metal tank. So if they make it Australia wide ill take it but ill run tests on my car tune it correctly etc and make it run properly on E10. But if lots get scared I see wreckers selling off old stuff cheap as chips and old 7K motors and 5K motors being sold for under $50..LOL Shall have a mean old rolla then on the cheap. Cameron

What model 4K head is it or 4K block and what model 5K gear? All depends. Some 4K heads are 100% same as a 5K head factory others are different. if it is a stock normal ADM 4K head 5K head is HEAPS better but the 4K will drop compression if it is a normal flat top piston head so id jsut not drive the car..LOL As for the cam rear bearing clearance yes Felix is right some are smaller so you can damage a welsch plug. I use a 4K cam in my 5K no problems just make sure it is the same as the original 5K one first. I in a previous 5K also rana 3K cam with a re-grind to suit hydro lifters so yes cam swap can be done first messure it up but. I run. Stock 4K cam in 5K, twin row timing chain, 3F lifters, 4Kc push rods on 3K rocker gear slightly modified according tot eh TRD book and all this on a dished piston 5K running a 5K head that is shaved to up the compression. Run about 210 PSI each cylinder. Cheers Cameron

^^^ Take me with for experience..LOL

I want front guards before we cube it. But what is with the radio antenna to on bottom of guard on passenger side. I don't like it also brake pedal looks like it sits a mile higher than other pedals etc But KE1X were optional factory aircon so not odd but why the HUGE pump..LOL stock 1969 pump was smaller. Cameron

Every one will hate me for posting this but I have see a diff run up side down quite successfully. Was a kinda home made buggy dune jumper that was a shit heap auto behind a old Holden V8. Auto shit its self in forwards but not reverse. Now instead of buying a new cheap box for a laugh the diff was out and put in upside down again. It ran for a while car was slow as reverse was so low geared but took a HEAP of thrashing. Now I'm just putting this idea out there when your down changing gears as you do pulling up to a stop if there is the slightest amount of engine breaking your diff will be contacting on the other side of the gear. So why not run one up side down providing you had some way of keeping oil to the bearings. Cameron

Hi, 100% KE20 carbies. KE10 twins have a different choke system and KE30 has carbon canister ports yours don't also your adjustment screw for the mixture on a KE1X is also different. Main difference with the kits are between models more holes in carby for pollution gear so more holes in gasket so KE2X gaskets will be fine. As for jet yes those sizes listed above are correct and should be fine my 1969 twins were like new inside I just blew out with air and reassembled really. But before you proceed your rear carby has damage it is missing its mixture screw and has a lot of dirt in it. This leads to small passages so that will need a thorougher clean out. Cheers Cameron P.S. Ill try to get a heap of photos up of mine only be phone but straight away you will see about 10 differences in he cabies.

Hi, Went through some books for you and I am a bit iffy saying an exact model there off. I have 2 sets of KE15 twin carby in the shed all part numbers line up with my KE15 part manual and both sets the rear carby has the thermostatic valve on the rear one. But ALL KE1X cars never got a PCV valve on the rear carby but this is easily added so still un sure. But in my part books the numbers you gave don't line up with any think KE1X or KE3X so I think you got a set from a KE20. BUT The fuel pump to carby hose you have is of a KE3X twin setup. Ke1X run all flexi hose and aT piece. KE3X on the other hand run solid line like yours to a brazed on part to run a line to the rear carby. What also makes it harder is KE1X twin carbies have a small mesh filter inside the casting for fuel in. I can't see the nut on your carbies to remove the filter and KE1X carbys where the fuel line attaches it is a cast nipple that is a part of the top part of the carby. Yours isnt. I think you have a bits-a setup. Also KE3X had a small port manifold with brake booster line coming from the rear cylinder yours doesn't so it isn't a KE3X manifold yet carbies suggest to me KE3X or KE2X So be caerful with your kit choice. All K motor carby kits vary a tad and to rebuild my sets I bought about 4 kits of KE1X and 2X carbies to do it right. Also can we get more photos as if there is a place for a carbon canister well the carby are 100% not KE1X as they never had a canister think they came in in 1972 to align with ADR rules. Also twin carbys run SMALLER jets. There not the same as single. So if you get 2 kits for single carby's to redo them and you put those new jets it it will be all different. Also replacement needle and seats of a few different brands for KE1X twin setups are WRONG..LOL took me a few goes but worked out get a new needle and seat and use the original seat with new needle. The replacement seat from a few different brands is to big the twin carby's run a different needle and seat to singles and all the aftermarket part makers make them the size of single carby ones. These can be a hand full to rebuild. But worth the effort for the original look. But more photos of air filters off and the top of the carbies and the rear of them and the part number on the manifold would be awesome. Cheers Cameron

ITS OFFICAL: XANY WILL BE posting here later :'(

By shimming I didn't mean to exactly add a shim. I also meant remove metal to lower them. As yes base circle is reduced. Also I ran the Tighe 115 or what ever it was the mid range cam was good in town and gave good power I can recommend it. Was the cam that peaked at about 5000RPM but it will go higher. Cameron