camerondownunder88

Hi, Front leaf is like a sway bar. So by putting in a sway bar it is over kill in a small car. This will cause the car to pick up the inside tire on the back around corners with both in and will smoke rubber for 100m up the street. Take out leafs install sway bar. Also sway bar with KE55/70 brake up grade will cause the sway bar to hit the brakes so that is only down side. Cheers Cameron

Hey, I have bought the ebay rubber for KE15 from that seller AWESOME....good product. all of it lined up clipped in original shape rubber and clips and all top quality hasn't perished etc. And $150 all my KIT was for both front and rear windscreen, 2 doors, boot. He does do kits email him :hmm: Also I looked at rare spares and stuff for kits here in Aus. CRAP ones I found were similar rubbers made to fit really. So go the ebay guy any day :rolla: Cameron

I have never used a brake shop for a flywheel job they do brakes..LOL Well ok some clutches. But I get them done at my local engine shop cost like $60 to get lightened and surfaced so cheap job. Cameron

:P Sorry has to be said lightening from the inside will waste your time. Keep strength there and get rid of the outer area. As Taz said lose torque gain revs. 6kg is about right I can't say I have seen a K motor one lighter really. Any less and the flywheel will become Swiss cheese..LOL Also original K-B motors have the lightest Flywheels of all K motors but only were in KE15/17 SL sprinters so RARE as were factory lightened. Cheers Cameron

Hi, I have seen a few lightened flywheels for K motors and never seen one break yet. Start witha 4K fly wheel. Lighter than a 3K one. 3K fly wheels are 22lbs And can't quite remember the 4K weight but think it was 17lbs so it is all ready 5lbs lighter. So bin a 3K flywheel. Also ones I have seen lightened what they usually do is if you flip the fly wheel over adn look at the back of it on the outer edge there is a ridge that starts half way out goes up to the ring gear and is thick. Machine that flat. So start where the metal starts to rise 50% of the way out abotu adn cut it to the ringgear the back of the flywheel will look flat takes out heaps of weight. Seen it done this way down to about 12lbs weight. Also when lightenign a fly wheel only take metal from the out side of the fly wheel. If you take it from the middle you will have less effect. So don't bother keep the metal there for strength. Lightes K fly wheel I have seen was jsut over 6kg it was s tock one machine reving VERY hard so they can be made very light. Also don't laugh BUT do you want a really light flywheel. I have seen tis done don't laugh....... Get an auto flex plate and machine up a piece of metal to resemble the friction area a clutch plate grips on a normal fly wheel adn weld it to the flex plate. UBER light then and strong will hold but can cost a lot making that one :P Cheers Cameron

All 5k-C were solid from the data I have I have seen a few..LOL but yes RARE.

You can see the lifters in a K motor by removing the spark plug tubes and the rocker cover EASY. 5K from Toyota did come with factory stock solids. Not all are hydro. If the head has bigger ports but Id say you have a 3K big port head on a 5K block with solid lifters. Motor could be de-compressed. OR is a stock flat top piston 5K that has solids and has been ported. Lots of options only photos will tell. Cheers Cameron

will work if you get the right sized push rods. 3K and 4K and 5K rockers shafts, springs, rocker arms are usually 100% the same. Only down side of 3K gear is it has aluminium rocker posts and the posts heat up heaps and expand more and valve clearance goes to shit. Just find the right length push rod. Also millions of different lengths and cup shapes and all in K motors so start looking there might find something. Cameron

All my mate who went and bought nice cars/parents did for them tried to drive mine I either got back in the captian seat or they said to hard couldnt do it. And one mate has crashed 2 brand new subbies WRX and a wagon thing. Due to he never learn to drive. I believe if we all started out in old 197X cars even early 80's we would all be better drivers Also most of my friends say oh my new car will save me in a crash why should I need to know how to drive or they think that there the best and went for 1 driving lesson to get there license so they new if there were slightly wrong so I support the new driver system and 5 year testing best thing government could bring in. I drive 120km round trip to work and a few times now I have had a close call with a driver who just didnt know how to handle his car. Cameron

I have converted my 5K with 5K head and double squish dished pistons to solid lifter :) I run 3F lifters, 4K-C push rods and 4K rocer arms 5K rocker supports and springs etc. Easy conversion all off shelf parts. Will need to grind under side of rockers down to squeze push rods in but TRD manual for 3K they do this to get weight down so is a plus all around. Cameron

If you know how to use photo shop just grab one of my scanns above post up the resutls see if you can get the correct comma/ paint on the comma. Might have to try this my self to. Cameron

I am plannign to get a heap of these stickers reprinted through asticker mob after I get the photo shopped files. You could print them at home on sticker paper but id be worried it just wouldnt stick like a nice vinal one or something and also needs to have some heat resistance. I also have an original K-B motor rocker Which I will try to get a scann of or a macro photo so we can make it again. Id like to have a collection of original stickers here that has been photo shopped so members can come on grab the jpeg and go get it printed. So if you have really good condition stickers and can scann them post it up from all different models. Also nikctime21 did you teach your self photo shop? Cheers Cameron

WOW what an awesome job hey if we can get it close to original that would be good but if not oh well still will make the car neat as. :) can't thank you enough. Also is it possible to do rounded corners on the stickers? Ok here are a few size messurements of the stickers so we know the rough size we are looking at. Air filter service one is: 135mm Long and 30mm in height. Font is 3mm high. I messured a letter "E" for that in the word UNPAVED. All letters same size in height. Bonnet latch sticker: 80mm wide and 91mm high Red section where "caution" is written is 15.5mm in height. All font on the picture is 4mm high. The word caution is 8mm high. Cheers Cameron

What colour could of been me? :)

3K-B if it is a RELY 3K-B motor for $200 mate a good carby setup I have seen them sell for $500 complete and the cylinder head for a -B motor RARE as id pay heaps to get my hands on one. Even if you decide not to go put a K motor in your car id still say yes to the motor. Cameron

Head off fit KE70 valve guides. BUT K-B heads are RARE AS. What I would do. Get a big port 3K head shave it so will keep the original K-B compression new KE70 valve guides with the better seal (well KE30 on wards got the better seal) And while I'm there id clean up valve seats with 3 angle grind and polish exhaust ports lightly. This will give you more power wont ruin a good K-B head and then it can be done still drive car swap head keep driving easy. Then id get K-B head cleaned up new original valve guides with crap seal and stash it for the ground up rebuild one day. Also note can't get the gasket for a K-B anymore has to be custom made also my head corroded out around the head to inlet hole REALLY badly unsaleable even with welds. So kinda be prepared for some corrosion also when it comes apart. But in short head off new valve guides. Cameron

Hi, Other weekend I did a brake up grade on my KE15 to KE70 brakes to make it stop a little better. Now I followed the WiKi and what I knew and a few things I noticed that were not in the FAQ I though Id share to hopefully make less people ask less questions about the whole process. Some of it might be well DAH obvious but it all helps we don't all know cars back to front up downa nd left and right and well all directions Now the Wiki Article goes like this: 1. Attach KE30 disc rotors to KE20 wheel hubs. This is by four 12mm or 14mm bolts. Make sure you do them up nice and tight. 2. Disconnect the brake lines to the front drum. 3. Remove the outer part of your front drum brake. 4. Prise off the locknut cover with a flat head screwdriver. This is the big knobby thing right there in the middle. 5. There should be four bolts within the brake assembly holding the assembly to the stub axle. Undo them. 6. Use a pair of pliers to remove the retaining pin from the lock nut and undo it. 7. Remove drum assembly from car. You should now be left with the drum assembly off the car and a front strut with no brakes on it. Now is a good time to replace wheel bearings. 8. Attach the backing plate to the four bolts that previously held the drum to the strut. 9. Get the hub/disc assembly you put together a few minutes ago. 10. Put this new assembly onto the stub axle. 11. Fit the locknut but not tight and don’t bother fitting the retaining pin yet. 12. Attach the caliper (and new pads) to the backing plate and over the disc. 13. Hook up the KE30 brake line onto the bracket on the KE10 strut (this will screw straight in). 14. Do up the locknut so the wheel will rotate freely but without wobbling around. Also put in the retaining pin. 15. Fit the wheel and do the same to the other side of the car. 16. Check all your bolts to make sure you did them up tight! 17. Bleed the brake system. 18. Do a test drive (drive slowly) to make sure everything works alright. 19. Don’t forget to be gentle on the brakes for a few days to let them bed in too. The whole upgrade will be very cheap if you can buy all the parts at one place. Now what I found is below with the information for the set it was involved in numbered the same as the step: 1. -First thing in the FAQ it says to attach rotors to bubs here. This is if you have front durms if you all ready run the small KE1X front Discs I found stripping all the front parts off now and start them soaking in cleaning tanks or cleaning parts now was better as while you did the rest of the sets you can have paint drying on parts or can jsut have them cleaning so they go on fresh as. - I have a KE15 so all KE15/17 that got factory front discs (I believe it was the SL model only) you can use your stock hubs doesn't need to be KE20 items don't waste money here. Also Mine were attached using 14mm bolts. Also since my hubs were 40 years old I blasted them on the OUT SIDE only blasting the bearing area can ruin the tight fit the outer race needs to stay in the hub. Then painted the hubs with high temp brake paint same as my rotors and then the small land on the back of the hub where the rotor gets tight and is meant to centralize it I got some 1200 grid paper and polised this area. don't paint it the disc might not go on then. The reason for polishing was after again 40years rust had started to affect this area in the form of pitting and I didn't like that. 2. -If you have front drums can split them on thsi step still wont affect anything. But A tip while removing brake lines. GET SOME OF THOSE CROW FEET SPANNERS (think thats the right name) They WONT round the hose fitting getting the hose off then. Mine were rusted in pretty good after 40 years. don't want stuff breaking off or making the job hard now. -Also 1 week before I started this conversion I got some penatrating oil (eg WD40) And soaked bleeding nipples, brake lines, bolts on strut etc so when undoing stuff it came off EASY. 3 to 7. - I didnt need to do all these sets as I all ready had front discs. So I wont comment and make any speculations here. 8. - I did a KE70 brake upgrade to do this you need KE30, 55 backing plates. They are bolted on with LARGER bolts. a few options here to attach the new backing plates. 1- Use small KE1X bolts with lock tight. Now shank of bolt wont be on the plate but the still provide clamping force and the stub axle will still hold the brake central. This way but under hard braking the plate might shift fowards a tad and might slowly oval out the holes and bolts will come lose thats why I recomend lock tight. 2- Drill tap out holes to larger thread fit the KE30/55 backing plate bolts to the strut. DONE safer still use lock tight..LOL 3- KE70 backing plates can be used BUT bolt holes MUST be weld up and redrilled they are not a square pattern like KE1,2,3,4,5 series rollas. Fiddly time consuming BUT can drill plates with smaller KE1X size holes and save tapping and drilling the struts. 9. - Again get the hub assembled in step one. At this point I installed NEW wheel bearings NEW greese AND Most of all I got new split pin for the lock nut and lapped the thrust washer that touches the bearing. WHY. This washer transfers the load from the nut to the bearing if it isnt flat load not transfered correctly can lead to fast bearing wear. So how do you lap something FLAT as at home. Get a sheet of 1200 grit wet and dry get a sheet of about 10mm FLAT glass put paper downa dn with washer flat on it rub it on the paper in a figure 8 motion on both sides it will make it parrell and flat again. As mine had HUGE marks from previous bearing installs and was screwed really. BUT note doing this makes the washer a tad thinner the nut might then be out of alignment with the split pin holes to fix lap the nut easy. Also My castle nuts that hold the bearings in wasn't flat either due to previous damage/ fix up jobs and wear. ALSO lap this no good making a flat thrust washer but the nut isnt flat. 10. -JUST DO IT 11. - In my manuals it says to do nut up to 30Nm of torque here spin disk this seats bearings then losen then with socket in your hand do up HAND tight with no bar on socket this is enough. To tight and bearings will run hot and die fast. 12. - I got brand new nuts to do this didn't want the disc caliper coming off and I used lock tight. 13. - Ah brake lines I get asked about this HEAPS. KE1X have a smaller outer diameter than KE30,55,70 lines so you need new Toyota pins. Yes there called that. Went to my brake shop and said I need those flat clip things and Toyota must of patented them first and well that's there industry name apparently. - ALSO KE30,55,70 brake lines will screw into KE10 brake fittings NO problems. So options are: get all new brake lines. Use KE1X upper hose then a new KE55/30/70 lower hose Get long one piece hose. - I at first fitted KE55 brake lines the strut to caliper was long enough :P BUT wheel arch to strut was TO SHORT. So I drove off to the local brake shop with a stock KE1X upper hose in hand and a Lowwer KE55 hose in hand and got a 1 piece braided line made up with the top half the length of a KE1X hose the lower half the length of a KE55 hose. I also opted for a 1 piece hsoe to have one less spot for a leak. 14. - Refer step 11 I tightened my nut straight away and put new split pin in and installed dust cap to STOP dirt entering bearing while fitting lines etc. 15. - I bleed the brakes at this point with the wheel off the car much easier to access stuff and to look for leaks :P 16. - Do this also do it as you go I used lock tight on certain bolts for piece of mind lock wire techniques will also work. 17. - did earlier 18. -If test drive slowly passes road test BEAD the brakes in consult maker of the new rotros/pads how to do this different brands say different stuff also different compound pads needs different beading in processes. 19. -Done in step above. Now After those few hints I have some photos and more info BUT I'm to tired atm so I am going to bed and will edit this later and prob add it to the FAQ Cheers Cameron

If it started smoking when the engine was at running temp the valve stems are GONE. That was what happen to my original K-B head in the 1960 valve stem seals didn't exist so when the valve wears the guide it allows oil to freely pass through the valve guide making LOADS of smoke. Have a look at the pipe that goes from the rocker cover to the ground the vent much smoke? Also the pipe on my KE15 was 100% blocked when I got it can recommend clearing it asap. The biggest problem with the K motor was this when it started leaking on the valve stem seals and since this is all original 100% chance it is the valves. Cameron

Just was looking and noticed your seats don't have head rests. But do they have holes for them to be installed sticking out the top? Cameron

When I got my 15 my master brake cyclinder had gunked up and I got it recoed for $140 all new EVERYTHING on it really. Also K-B motors from factory have a larger cam in them they do get up and boggie nicely for a K motor..lol Cameron

Hi, I am interested in buying one if you find one BUT I have a KE15 in the back yard up on stands atm Ill measure it up Thursday for you when I'm there doing its brakes and ill post it up. I have a huge feeling but the mount is the same as a KE20 g/b mount so look to see if you can get a KE20 mount to

Hi, As Rob said a REAL K-B big port head is different and better than a normal big port head BUT there rare as and can't get gaskets for them anymore the only gasket I have for one is asbestos and no gasket maker has listings for them. Those K-B heads ran even more compression than a big port head etc. Cameron

Opening is under the air filter air goes up into like a dam particle separator then into the filter. Does yours have 2 small filters or one large oval one? Toyota had both on twin carbies mine is a big oval one on my sprinter. Also as benzo suggested remove the tow bar...then I can buy it..LOL Cam

Also should add check if it is a genuine k-B head if it is you can't get gaskets for them anymore and need to custom make :hammer: So careful splitting the manifold if your good the asbestos gasket will stay in one piece and you can re use it. Cameron

VERY NICE FIND :hammer: Jellous..lol even though I have one out side atm So clean if you ever need help fixing it PM. But one request can I get a close up picture of the top of the air box that has the K-B sticker on it? And a photo of the boot inside by any chance? I also noticed you got a under dash shelf and tow ball all options and very nice. and all 4 hub caps. Mate weld them to the rim there so rare and hard to find mine all fell off the original owner said and I just have one now :y: Cheers Cameron