camerondownunder88

Better be driving my way :wink: In it. Also want fast way to bleed brakes... Get a container run 2 hoses from it. one to bleeder nipple on brake and one hose to inlet manifold. Loosen off brake bleeder nipple. Start car start filling brake master cylinder as car sucks through brake fluid. If I am by my self I just kill engine from in the bay and presto go tighten brake nipple. Easy fast sucks a LOT of old crappy dirt out to. With vacuum jar 2 hoses glued in top make sure vac line to manifold wont suck in old brake fluid. I have hose going from brake to vac jar bent towards the side so as fluid comes out you can see colour and know when to stop (helps when doing a full flush. Took me 3 min to do whole KE15 other week. on jack attach vac system and loosen nipple start car. Stop tighten re do on front disks easy. Best trick in my book beats pedal pushing and that rubbish easy cheap simple clean no fuss. Oh and another note I use a glass jar. Had engine vac crush a container once couldnt handel the force so glass is best but mus have a metal lid can solder/glue lines ot but seal out air FULLY. Cameron

^^ Though they looked like T3 strut tops. Are they bolt in or did you have to re-drill holes? As I know T3 sell strut tops for KP61, 79-83 corolla (ke5X I belive). And I have been told KP61 is same 3 bolt pattern as KE1X items but have never confirmed this so I never have tried buying a set. Cheers Cameron

I think the ones in my manifold are ABS not 100% sure. But I got a set for mine re-done in machine shop at work. I sourced a rod of teflon and had them machined out of that. So just pop one out and any machine shop should be able to do it out of teflon, PVC, ABS, Nylon etc any plastic you can get your hands on. Cheers Cameron

Ill have to draw a pic. But the section of the piston on my shocks that holds the bushes is 9.82mm so :dance: will fit wont need to drill hole in car bigger. ANother 5 points for you :)

THANKS ^^^ Hit the target just what I was after for question one that is..LOL THanks for the length to I had calculated 32.8mm so that is good to know also. Now that is sorted lets move to the top of the shock. The piston that slides in and out of a KE1X shock. What diameter is it at the end the bushes go onto with the washes? Some shocks have a slightly thicker part on this also near the lower bush so if it is stepped a bit that would be nice to know also. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Trying to fit a set of shock absorbers to the rear of a KE15. I had an original shock absorber but threw it out so can't get this measurement so this is where I need all your help. I need to know the internal diameter of the bottom bushing sleeve (steel sleeve in bottom of shock absorber rubber bushing that connects to the diff) in a standard KE1X shock absorber? Reason is I need to find a suitable bushing with the right internal clearance for a ke1X bolt and that has the right external diameter for a rubber bushing that will fit the shock. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Cameron

I have tended to use my local pedders a lot recently as they still have shocks for KE1X on the self :bash: And always wanna help me and let me in the work shop to help/view work being done on my KE15. Looks like I shall be visiting them next chance with my spare LCA's :yes: Cheers Cameron

Hi, I am very interested in your LCA bushes you got made. Are the bushes in a metal outer case like the original items? Also the picture looks like you have a small ball bearing in the middle that the cross member shaft goes through to attach the LCA. Is that a bearing or just a plain metal tube? ALso when pedders looked at the car did you just take in the LCA to them and get one fitted or what? I need some for my car and this looks like a excellent option. And camry is like the Toyota commodore parts are everywhere so should be a good supply of these bushes cheap to :bash: Cheers Cameron

Hey, Ill be down next weekend I could help... But also note I had a cam in a 5K once and the small pin in the front that aligns with the small hole on the cam gear sheered. Causing tming to be way out and vary as the sprocket spun. This can happen not to alarm you but make sure the pin is still good. Other wise can't really dial in cam unless you have an adjustable cam sprocket. But these can be found for K motors. Cam

I think I jsut unclip my KE1X heater core to remove it no wires....yes that is all. out in 2min..lol Btu sucks mine bused in the KE15 other day :blush:

+1 For Taz idea. Mazda rims can get stuck on a KE1X hub also there like 0.5mm smaller in diameter and nuts press them on if you don't file the rim out. So to get them off easy finger tight nuts go for drive. I live in a coldisack so find just doing 1 full loop there lose..LOL Cameron. (only did this once till I filed the rims out lol)

Why do you have springs in the centre of yours?? :) Cam

HI, Glad you got in. I use 2 main methods pending where the door lock pull is. Method one is packing tape in a u shape between car frame and door frame and rubber. Wiggle around lock and pull up. Will open most and even KE3X with smooth locks with the right technique. Method 2 I use for cars with lock on door trim. Need a few bits but easy to get Need one an old milk container/plastic container with smooth texture, 1 door wedge or other wedge shaped object, 3 long piece of wire bent to a U shape with both sides being about 50mm long while the middle section is about 1m can be more can be less. So a really fat U. Now cut top and bottom off milk container leaving a band about 50-100mm wide. Squash flat slide in between car frame and door fram like packing tape method near the top with cut end one in car one out car so you can slide stuff through it.. Now with milk carton get wedge and slide it between the 2 layers of milk carton and it will push open the door frame with out marking paint :wub: Now get long wire hold one end slide through plastic area or lower pending angle you need. ANd with one short end of the U use it in hand to turn it and with the other end flick the latch open. If your near a bin in public can be done lots of smooth plastic cartons anything wedged shape and wire. This method is fast and works on lots of modern cars I find top of door/widow frame esp on Mitsubishi cars is so easy to push out with wedge can nearly use hand to reach in not wire. Also this method wont mark paint or anything no one will know so fast and easy. Cameron

Alot here run 3K head with the A12 push rod and chev lifter. Works reliable. If you run a dished piston head Id go for the 3F cruser lifter. AGAOIN I HAVE A DISHED PISTPON 5K RUNNING THIS SETUP NOT A 5K with FLAT TOP PISTON HEAD. The 3F lifer is a lighter lifter and if you can source some dished piston 4K push rods no mods need doing to the rocker gear it is bolt in go. So for me id go cruser lifter. But if sourcing A12 rods is not an issue for you go chev. As dished piston 4K are not common so there push rods can be hard to get. So that leaves moding 4k-c and stock rocker gear to run 3F lifters that might be hard for some so really from a performance view Id go 3F lighter lifter etc etc. Easier conversion go chev. UNLESS you have 4k dished piston push rods as then well it is all bolt in. Cameron

... don't belive me... Go measure them for ur self then Also another thing came to my mind. Some chev solid lifters do have the oil hole drilled in the side differently to others. (think It was lower). If you use that type in a 5K what can happen is the oil hole in the block for supplying high pressure il to lifters will be open and you will find your engine wont make oil pressure and lifts have a LOT of oil in them. BUT 3F lifters the Toyota part number cross references to the solid lifter used in 5K's that were factory solid lifter. So the oil hole is in the right position so you will get oil pressure etc. But I think it has just een me and one other member that experienced the oil pressure issue so not common but be warned it can so if you run into that problem just change lifter. Cameron

Should note my way of making a solid lifter 5K is witha dished piston head. I did work out another Toyota push rod to make this work with a flat top piston head but can't remember it off top of my head. Cheers Cameron

The Datto A12 push rod is one way... You can still use your 4K push rods in a 5K I did. Buy 3F Toyota solid lifters. geta set of 4K-C push rods. Get your rockers and the 3K TRD manual. If you re-work the rockers to TRD spec the 4K-C push rods fit in. Then you can use all Toyota parts and if you break a rod PLENTY of 4K's around. Also. From my use of a 5K in a car with stock cams, from all K motors (not all K motors run same grind) and a few hot cams. They come on a bit earlier than other K motors about 500RPM. My Local cam shop all his grinds are listed for 3K for the sprint cars that have to use 3K's. He has designed all these cams for 3K. Now I find all his grinds the rated RPM power range max RPM etc all come 500RPM earlier in a 5K so also keep this in mind when chosing a cam if the cam is listed for a 3K expect it to behave different in a 5K. Cheers Cameron

HEY HEY HEY HEY MY FIRST SPOTTING :) Was waiting to be found before I up date my rides thread only took 2 months..LOL Yes the KE15 is on the road took it for a blat to wivenhoe dam today....purs along nicely at 85 mph :jamie: Were U on the bike trev? so many bikes today out on the roads there. And where abouts on the highway? Cheers Cameron

I got the tool to do it at a cheap shop in Ipswich mate cost $5..LOL Never go wrong with it or yes I am with the tooth less fork guy. Cheers Cameron P.S. Watch for the Jesus clip that can come flying out but :no2:

Dizzy and the water cooling pip is in the wrong spot for it to be a 3k-R Id say it is a 16 valve TTE vertion of the 2tg. Cheers Cameron

at this pont ill be headdin there next Thursday.

Hi, Nice piece of history there. But can you tell me this.....the extractors on the engine cast items or steel tube light ones? If there bent steel pipe ones NOT cast can you see if there is any Toyota logo or weld in Toyota name or anything identifying these extractors? Cheers Cameron

Hi, Opppss should have been more precise in my first post..LOL Yes I KNOW it is AM... Mani question was if I had to get an expander thing-o like FM radios I didnt wanna get a dud. Reason I also ask is there are a few different part numbers for KE1X radios. And since radio in KE15 isnt original not good enough. SO I am removing it if I get this and making it look more stock. Cheers Cameron

^^^ I'm with Teddy..little heavy looking you know that will slow you down.... :happy: Car is flying along in progress :lolcry: can't wait to have a ride in this one compaire it to the 5K. Cheers Cameron

SLO-030 5K ones are the strongest usually the thick ones but these are not light items. Yes 7K rods agree are 7afe items wont use..LOL Felix as for motor..don't wanna let too much out but twin sidedrafts upright chrome molly bits titanium bits flashy.... I talked to my engine builder I said if I clean deburr rods at work what will it cost for balance polish and shot peen...he made a few sounds and said still a few $100 to get them mirror finish with a really good even weight spread. If Spool rods come in at $500 they will be lighter, stronger balanced better off the shelf so leaning towards them. Cheers Cameron