camerondownunder88

currently have 1 spare KE1X box. 2 spare KE3X 4 speeds and a fits full of KE30 and KE70 5 speeds so i have a range. I just want to avoid cutting the floor out of the KE15 at all costs. But again finding KE1X gear boxes can be hard. But then that raises another question. Early KE1X gear box has shifter right up front. Smaller bearings less splines weaker over all. KE3X gear box has mid position shifter larger bearings more splines on shaft. Is it possible to say get a KE1X rear housing and adapt it to a KE3X housing? Also do KE2X share the same shifter position as a KE1X. As KE2X has the larger shaft and bearings so if they share shifter position then I could look at a KE2X gear box option also. End of the day Id rather have a stock KE1X box but if I do blow one easily well ill prob go straight to a KE70 5 speed for larger bearings over drive with a KE3X rear housing so I have to cut the floor less. But then I would lose my KE15 SL centre console..LOL Cameron

As promised pictures of the flywheel I will be using in my KE15 5K engine build. It is a JUN flywheel think it is the 3KG one for get exact weight but I didnt go ultra light wheel. The difference between this and ultra light is ultra light one has holes bored through it around the friction area. You can see they have extra holes drilled for moving the dowel pins for locating the pressure plate problem is they are weld on the back to retain the 3 that are in it atm so I can't move them ;) So hence I need a late-model pressure plate. And need the early clutch plate to fit early gear box. So I went comparing parts on the exeedy web page see what I could find WOW where do I start. Release bearing. From what I found same bearing 6006 used from KE15 to KE70 so philbey throw out bearing shouldnt be an issue but I have 7 K boxes in my land on parts so I shall compare them all to make sure first. Secondly clutch cover. Ok early KE's are a 2 pin flywheel late is 3 pin. Also KE15/17 sprinters had more clamping pressure. Mistake one lists same pressure plate OEM for all early corollas so if I go this route I will get less clamping pressure :dance: FAIL. The part number for the OEM exeedy KE15 clutch is: TYK-6094, clutch plate info: Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth: 180 x 18 x 16 (NOTE: no performance option available) The part number for the KE20 clutch again should be 2 pin flywheel is: TYK-6066 clutch plate info:Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth 180 x 21.6 x 19 (NOTE: no performance option available) Here we can now see they are listing the clutch plate as same size just larger input shaft for the gear box. This is correct and more spines. Now KE35 clutch (no KE30 listing): TYK-6036 clutch plate info:Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth 180 x 21.6 x 19 WOW ok now we have a performance listing to. This performance clutch and the OEM clutch part number is now the same from KE3X to KE70 for a K box NOT a T box. So from this I have gathered. KE1X,2X clutch kit has same pressure plate for 2 pin flywheel but later KE2X clutch kit has different clutch plate for later gearbox shaft size. KE3X to KE7X has clutch pressure plate for 3 pin flywheel and later clutch plate but this clutch plate is same from KE2X kit to KE7X kit. Now I need a 3 pin clutch cover. So looks like I will have to order a KE3X to KE7X kit to get the performance cover with more clamping pressure. I will then have to order a KE1X clutch kit to obtain an early KE1X clutch plate with the smaller shaft size in the centre. WOW getting tricky. So could be expensive but should work. So now to go out the back where I have a KE17 engine sitting with sprinter early flywheel and a 3K out of a KE30 sitting there and see if I can fit early clutch plate with late-model pressure plate and mate up a gear box. WOW. I shall post findings later. But for now back to study. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Ill have to psot pics later but I currently have an issue. In my KE15 I HAVE AN EARLY 2 PIN FLYWHEEL (ORIGINAL ke15 ITEM) AND A ORIGINAL ke15 clutch setup. Original KE15 clutch ressure plate has 660Lbs force over a stock KE10/11 one of 600lbs FYI. But heres the problem. I want to run a later 3 pin flywheel. So I need a later 3 pin cluthch cover. Now early K boxes that fit KE1X had less splines on the input shaft and there actual clutch disk has a differentsplines int eh centre. Can I use a early clutch disk in a later clutch pressure plate and flywheel setup? Or will it foul or damage it in ayn way? Is there anyone out there doing this? As I want to runa 3 pin type flywheel but keep my original KE15 gearbox so I don't have to cut holes int he floor. If I can't looks like ill have to do an input shaft swap and that will get messy..LOL Cheers Cameron

^^ Sounds interesting ont eh pistons. TRD motors had 2 options very well preeped stock rods with the upper bushing removed to accomodate a 20mm gudgon pin. Or Carlio (Think taht is the brands spelling) conrods. These were FAR FAR better and avaliable in the later 4K TRD engine. Again a 20mm pin. But from what I own and books the TRD stage 3 had the 20mm pin stage 1/2 had 18mm wich is stock diameter. The pistons you describe with a short skirt, 1 ring, don't sound like TRD items. But I have heard of some motor bike pistons fitting into a K motor so they could be motor bike items even hard to say with no pictures. TRD pistions usually have TRD marked on the inside of the piston fastest way to tell a TRD item they usually did mark it. But I am a bit confused with your post you say the "Stock ones have held up well" Does this mean you currently run stock 3K pistons? Stock pistons will work ina stage 1 head setup. If you do have stock pistons int eh 3K try evil bay i the US they always have sets of 3K pistons on there NOS. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Very nice ke17 there :P Few things we can do with the engine. If you get a 4k or 5k just puttie/fill the numer eg the 4 or 5 so it reads K-XXXXXXX for engine number. As these early cars did have a K motor so easy to hide any K motor in one. But that leaves the sump. To get the 5K into my KE156 I had to move the sump where it crosses the engine cross member with my hammer. So this might also be a dead giveaway. As for the TRD pistons. Try Yahoo auctions or look around you can still get those pistons. As If you have a TRD head on thsi motor it will not bolt onto the 4K or 5K :y: If you bolt it onto the 4K the valves WILL hit eh pistons. The TRD ones are fly cut to fit the valves. Alsot eh 4K would need boring. As the TRD inlet valve needs the extra diameter. As for the 5K there dished piston motors so putting a stage 2/3 TRD head on a 5K will drop the compression ratio. And I know the TRD heads are cut close to the water jacket so don't wanna shave one much. And if you put flat top pistons in a 5K again the valves will hit unless you fly cut the pistons. So I think try finding a set of TRD psitons first then go from there. But out of interst can we get more pictures? Mainly of the dizzy. As I see you have the TRD one with no advance unit for vac advance. And Can we also get photos of the oil filter cooler lines and how there attached and the oil breather pipe that bolts onto where the fuel pump should be on the side of the block? I am very keen on many pictures of this engine as TRD motors are few adn far between. Cheers Cameron

An ACL extractor gasket is same as bpottom one larger holes for larger ports. But is a one piece. But I have to ask...WHERE did you get the bottom gasket from? I need a set asap for the KE15? Cheers Cameron

What type of gasket? If you want the manifold and exhaust one go to any car shop ask for a "extractor gastedt 3K toyota" in bottom note of ACL book lists it. This is a big port suited gastek. Now that also opens up a can of worms if you want a REAL K-B manifold gasket you have to custom make NO ONE makes 3k-B or K-B gaskets. I have one and it is asbestos that is how old it is. So if you want a real K-B one custom. If you jsut need a bifg port sized one you need an extractor gasket. Cheers Cameron

I still hve pics. Ill PM you later tonight Aus time and fill you in with how to assemble adjust and build KE1X drums. Cameron P.S. What front brakes does thsi car run?

Can buy roller rockers in Australia. Yella Terra make them and sell them under Crow cams. Are discontinued but they will do a run if you buy ten sets at a cost of $998.00 a set. I enquired..LOL Cameron

Have you seen the price of that stuff...lol I have seen that site for a while. But bugger me if I can find stuff like PO conrods etc to buy. Anyone know a contact for that company? But I do like there vernier timing chain adjuster. Looks like stock one fitted to a new centre. Could be done. But there are other ways to vary a K motor cam gear :) Cameron

You would have to get them powder coated metallic red. As a rule you can't anodize cast aluminium has to much crap in it adn when being anodized goes black. Most plating shops for this reason will only anodize cast aluminium black. I think the red looks good but would have to be powder coated. Cameron

There are HEAP of different head to K motor combos that can be done. First up Use a late model head. I own old 196X K motor heads to new ish 5K heads out of vans toa TRD made head. Early heads I feel the casting quality is poor lots of dags etc everywhere. As for late-model heads on dished piston motors less dags from external on the head to even in the ports. So a later model head no mods has better ports. Now speaking about ports. Grab a stock 4K-C, 3k-c,k-B what ever head. Run your finger along the top of the exhaust port WOW did u feel that step. Now notice outside on the corner of the head above all exhaust ports is a large flat section. This is where in some countries they drilled holes and installed air injection. So inside the port has a casting hole to allow for this. This kills flow. Now run your finger along the top of a dished piston motor head.....umm flat smooth also notice outside the head no angled flat sections. These heads never had air injection again ports are better because of that. Now. valve sizes a few different valve sizes were use. K heads, 2K heads some early 3K heads have SMALLER valves. Again use a later head larger valves. And some of those small valve heads were big ports. SO they flow crap steer clear. Also for added strength on the bottom of the cylinder head the water holes/slots they have near the cylinder TRD weld these up and drilled a hole 6mm diameter. This then allowed the combustion chamber to be ground out to de shroud valves more. And control water flow better and add strength so can recommend doing this. Now back to valves. All JDM/dished piston heads have nitride valves in them. Other 3k-c, 4k-C heads have shit repco made mild steel valves. They break have had one let go sitting on high way in 5th gear once. So I take exhaust valves out of dished piston heads into other heads stronger take more heat etc. You can tell if valve is nitride their brown from valve to about half way up the stem. Also valve stem on 3k-C, 4k-C valves stem is straight. Dished piston heads valve stem tapers a bit again more flow area. So yeah use these valves in other heads. But now for the catch these heads hard to find..LOL Well there on say all 5K's but if they have ever had valves changed etc prob got crap aussie made repco valves. Now for valve stem seals old heads have nothing..so if you do use an early head whack in later valve guides and seals. Also rocker posts. Early heads use aluminium. Expands fast throws your tappet clearance out. Stick in late-model steel rocket posts. expand less and keep clearances better. So there are lots of small hidden stuff in these heads to look for mix match. Quite a nice head can be made but starting on a dished piston head using a mix up of other heads. But if you wanna build a head with larger valves. YOu can grab a 4k head pull out exhaust valve get it to fit in the intake. Now for the exhaust valve use a gemmini valve. Will require you to bore out the block as new exhaust valve will hit if you don't but this can be done and huge valves using stock valves so there like $6 each for a valve at repco and will increase flow heaps. Also a stock KE15/17 sprinter did the 1/4 mile in 17 seconds stock. So with head mods alone I can't see why a KE1X car can't go it in the mid 16 second mark CHEAP. Cheers Cameron

This is coming live from 1min drive from WIllow bank...POURING RAIN..LOL I wont be there tonight next week etc till I fix KE15 decided to pull front wheels and struts out/off car and umm pull apart motor to fix oil leaks..LOL So uni and work permitting ill be there in 3 weeks..LOL Cameron

Looks like I need to get over to toymods. Ill post pics of mine tomorrow night if I get time we can all debate them..LOL Cheers Cameron

^^^ And I do know they rattle apart. Everything comes lose. But I have a set of imported solex think there 45mm off a KP61 ex TRD car now TRD used solex and these ones seem pretty good there not the same as the stock ones off a Toyota but I feel there a copy of the webber. Forget which type and aI actually need some help identifying them. But does anyone know where I can buy jets and that for the solex carbies? Cheers Cameron

Solex = paper weight.... Please explain? Cameron

Not only is it close to r12 But LPG from the wiki link I supplied under test if it was to all leak into the cabin of the car and ignite passengers suffered light burns. This was done with real people. Now if the aircon was on windows are up. You would quickly smell LPG if it did leak a/c off windows down no issue get it fixed. I'm not saying go LPG over r134a But it is an option. If you find an aicron place that will do it I would probably consider it my self but if you plan to later sell the car etc Id probably go r134a. Cameron

HAHAHA In my KE1X aircon manual it says if normal R12 gas not on hand you can use LPG from a BBQ bottle..LOL And has the filling procedure for LPG gas. Which is good for cooling as it has a boiling point of -42.09 degrees C :blinks: So in an aircon system it makes them VERY VERY COLD. But here is some reading for you in the link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquefied_pet...s#Refrigeration So if you don't wanna go R134a (which still hurts the O-zone) just use LPG..LOL But on a serious note. My local shop quoted me once for my a/c in the KE15. They said If I install components they will check the pump (they said shouldnt need new o-rings etc in pump for modern gas), the receiver dryer they said is a throw out item corrosion what not so a modern one will be fitted and new hoses made, fill and leak test about $400. So ring around might be easier to fit mount dash unit and that and get the pros to finish it off for you. Cheers Cameron

Hey, How funny is this exactly 48 hours ago the same spring in my KE30 died to. I grabbed my needle nose pliers bent a new hook on the end and reatached it. Yet to find a spring this works and so far ok. is not the main spring for holding bonnet shut so don't worry just a pain if it breaks as it has to do with the locking being pulled back for when bonet opens. CHeers Cameron

Yes drags are on tomorrow BUT I think the offical rollaclub meet is next week due ot orgion. But Ill be there just degreesed car and fitted a radator coke over flow catch tank....RCOFCT...LOL So ill be there who wants to join the 20 second club ;) Cameron

My dads toranna has the same ignitor system ;) He bought it way back when it was a kit from Bosch. Could get it to suit 4,6,8 cyclinder cars. Ill ask him when he gets home if he has the manual for his still might have how to wire it up. As even his dizzy internals look the same. Cheers Cameron

Using an old nipendenso or Bosch dizzy? The old nippondenso dizzys can flog out easy. If it is the original one after being tuned (ie new points gap set etc) after a bit of wear and the play in the dizzy it causes it to diesel. Also original carby or later KE carby? Early ones had no fuel cut off valve later ones did. So if you have original KE1X carby useless looking to the valve as the issue. Carby kits are $50 at a place near me worth every cent. Cameron

OOO yes ok not to scare you as felix has just said if adjusters go in ass about adjustment will reverse..LOL I have a Toyota factory manual and that is how my diff in the KE15 is. Mine has factory rear brake cyclinders still so yours might of been changed and placed in backwards. So I guess you might ust have to get under the car and play. Cheers Cameron

Yes Turn up (so adjuster/screw driver handle goes down) to wind off the drum shoes. TO tighten screw driver handle goes up to turn adjuster down. Also yes 2 holes in front of drum VERY HAND ;) I have 2 bolts in my tool box that fit and wind drum off easy. Cameron

Well here are my thoughts. Origin starts at 8pm...Drags open at 5:30 I'm going there after work and going to race for 2 hours then jet home 1min away and party..LOL Hard for people in far away places to do that but. Also since it is origin night the drags will be QUIET.... I have a feeling not many will show and I'll get HEAPS of runs in. So anyone still interested I will be there this Wed night still. Cameron