camerondownunder88

Hi, Should also note I ran the earth wire directly to the negative side of the battery. Would this affect operation? Also tomorrow I will go by new points and put them in remove the CDI and get car going fine.So back to square one. I will then install my KE30 coil and resistor and try that. If all is good then I will know that I have no issues. I will then install the CDI with the resistor on the coil and test. If I burn points I know it wasnt the coil. And ill start again. Evan as for dizzy wire yes jsut one wire to the coil. It then goes to the negative side of the coil. Cheers Cameron P.S. Should also note condenser is old as the hills and was burning hot after testing today so will replace this tomorrow also.

Might seem stupid where do I hook up my nerd meter (multi-meter) to the points with the car running and the rotor cap on? Or jsut car ignition on the on position and cap off engine not running? Cameron

Hi, "Sounds like it is wired wrong, It is just 4 wire isn't it? Similar thing to what I run on mine, Though I have an electronic dizzy.. Yes run a ballast resistor!" I double checked the wiring about 10 times. It also came with a plug and play loom for KE3X/TE37 that was model when this unit was released. I made my own to suit KE1X. Only thing I can think is KE1X run a 12V coil no ballast resistor. KE3X and up have ballast resistor. Car runs just misses below 3500RPM and after that the fun begins but also melts and I mean MELTS points in 5min. Car still runs but as yes points are just a "switch" that is why it is weird I melted them. As for rotor and dizzy cap. Not a mark no burning or anything visible :( That is why I'm stumped it is some how cooking points. SO I think Justin you might be right I NEED the resistor. I have a spare KE3X coil and resistor in the shed so think Ill grab it and see how I go after replacing my points. But I got software to scan books and recognise the words and translate them etc so going to scan the manual see what I get. Cheers Cameron

Hi, As most of you know I have a KE15 and drive it around. Today I fitted a TRD CDI unit to the car :( Very rare but packs hell of a spark. Now problem is wired it up as the CDI said how to, to a STOCK original KE1X coil. Car started great :D took it for a drive and straight away I noticed under load the car felt like it was missing and from idle to about 3500 RPM takes off runs fine :? So after a 5min drive get home pull open bonnet pop off dizzy cap (stock KE1X dizzy) points MELTED :bash: arm of the points was nice purple colour and out of shape and destroyed :( Now thing is I have the manual for the CDI and it is all in Jap :( can't read it so kinda went by pictures and the picture on the front of the CDI> Now has anyone ever used a TRD CDI? Also should I change my coil and will this stop the points dieing? ALso points failed I think due to current being pulled through them. Could it be the CDI will always pull too much current? I'm at a loss on how to sort it out any advice appreciated. Also from what I can decifer from the manual. CDI ona 4 cyclinder good to 18,000RPM giving 2 sparks at that point. With a output to coil of 5.5 K volts and will work from 8V to 16 volts input so works while cranking. Also a few pics in the book show how to wire it up with a resistor on the coil Would a resistor styled coil stop points melting every 5min? Cheers Cameron Pics of CDI etc...

There is such thing as a KE25 sprinter is KE30 looking has a K motor and is a sprinter Australia never got it. Have photos of it here in my sales books I collect. Do you mean this car? or a TE27? Cameron

Stock KE15 did quater in 17 seconds on a 3k-B motor factory spec. And total guess this but a KE70 with a silvertop will run about a 15.5 second pass so ina lighter car not by much but enough i recon high like 14.9 to low low 15.2 second passes. Also if it is stock diff will get off line faster than other KE's as KE1X had a lower diff ratio so migh be a high 14. Let us know the results. Cameron

Hi, Id have to go home and meassure my KE10 springs at home but I think you might have KE1X front eye bushes. Ill let you know what I meassure up. Cameron

The photos of the extractors you got made are 100% identical to the KE1X ones I have. From my experence KE1X,2X and 3X series extractors I have owned they are all the same up to the collector. Here they start to differ as the floor pan changed in the KE series. So these might fit jsut need to cut section of pipe off at the collector and buyer welds on his own length to suit car and application. Cheers Cameron

WOW :dance: Possible to get more 3k-B gaskets???? After like 10 sets? PM'ed Cameron

Nice jig :( Rocker ratio on ALL K motors is 1.5 Cameron

Hi, My KE15 did this des when I first got it. I found it to be a combination of: Corroded connections, Blown bulbs scattered around the place, And the indicator stalk its self had bad contacts, AND the main harness to the dash cluster affects all the lights in my car so many places in 40-year-old wires where fault can occur. Start simple but try the bulb. BUT be-ware KE1X have like a rubber insulator in the indicators over time and heat this hardens and cracks easy. If it breaks light shorts out and stays on just watch this. Cheers Cameron

Des where did you find that gem? Looks so so neat good cruiser.

Just adding my 2c KE1X in my parts book have listed 2 different types of front brake disk setup one is akebono other is sumitomo. KE2X used similar brakes to KE1X dare say types listed above and a girlock setup also. So that new rotor could suit a KE2X but with a different manufacture of front brake. Cheers Cameron

Hello, First off what solid lifters you using? This is a off shot but you might be losing all your oil pressure at the lifters. I had a 5K once the hole for the hydro lifter oil passage was drilled a tad higher than another 5K block I had laying about. Thus when running chev solid lifters opened the hole and oil went oh into lifter and I got no pressure. Long shot but I know this CAN happen. But most likely not running correct tappet clearence..LOL Cheers Cameron

Kits don't exist...here any way :laff: Only ones I have found are for just clutch plates at a cost of $200 ish AU in Japan. hen need to post and that is for one clutch need more than one so yeah. But if you do get a 5.6 inch diff parts fit inside the 6 inch ;) I bought 2 one for spares and the 6 inch I got was rebuilt all ready so I havent tried to hard. But best bet try a diff shop a AE86 shims etc might fit so give it a go. Cameron

Hi, Not sure of cam but it is pretty big if it is 298 deg. I run 271 degree in my 5K makes power from 4000 RPM to 7500 RPM with slight heap de-burring and porting, extractors and twin stock asian carbies. Would be best suited to side draft carbies this cam (that's why I got it) with more degrees like your cam you would NEED twin side draft carbies. I also run low diff gears 4.33:1 gears. So I sit on 4000 RPM at 100km/h so put foot down I go. Cam is on verge of mmm not a daily the one I have so Id say yours wouldn't be a good choice for a 4K daily. Also mine has a pretty rough idle :) wose than expected but twin carbies will settle it down and they sucka lot of fuel so not good for a daily..LOL Also in comparison going off 298 deg your cam is similar to 474 grind here: http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm Cheers Cameron

I got the finished parts sitting on my work bench piss easy 30min to build the display :) Will install later down the track when I get time to weld in sensor into KE15..LOl Cameron

Also note. don't GET A SINGLE WIRE ONE They don't have a heater are not as good. But as far as I am aware most cars ata wrecker will be narrow band. Not many cars use wide band yet from what I read but are becoming more of them. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Well tomorrow night I see a window of opportunity so might solder the kit up tomorrow night. You have me thinking about it again and just finished an amp so my electronics desk is free so shall see what I can do tomorrow. Cheers Cameron

Hello, Just adding what I have. With the narrow band yes not the best for tuning but better than nothing once you have a rough setup for carbies this can help fine tune them a bit more. As for the kits I am currently building one atm. At the end of finance year I got a wide band fuel meter kit for Half price :( so like $35 I think it was CHEAP. Jump on evil bay. $100 will get you a wide band sensor :D Then jaycar now make a kit for the wide band controller for under $100 (think I saw it at $69 other day) So for me about $190 I will have a full wide band setup. But then the wide band jaycar kit pull out the O2 sensor and any sensor with a 0-5 volt range will plug n and it will read it :D So with some tuning and that I could adapt this to a oil pressure, fuel pressure, vac gauge etc the list goes one your imagination limits you only. So es initially could cost $200+ for jaycar setup but uses down the track HEAPS. And the wide band kit straight out of the box will read narrow band sensors so even if you can't afford a wide band sensor and controller straight away hey can still get a cheap narrow band sensor and start tuning. As a rich running carbie can kill an engine fast if left to run rich. And I am sure the motor being re-built cost more than tuning the carbies correctly. Cheers Cameron

Well no I didnt trev..LOL But got a spare KE3X resistor measure at 2.3 ohms. I measured the stock coil internal resistance at: 4.6 ohms (this is a KE1X 12v stock coil) Accel coil measures at: 1.6 ohms internal resistance. Now for testing added the KE3X resistor and it WORKED :)Car out of tune so can't get firm results yet but. But in this link: http://www.accel-ignition.com/pdf/140001.pdf it says add a 1.35 ohm resistor on top of stock resistance. Does anyone know resistance of a chev/ford V8 stock engine? I can then add the total needed resistance and have a target. As I don't want to much resistance stopping coil making power yet I don't want to little causing the coil to fail and not spark etc. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Been toying with the idea of running a Accel Super coil 140001 in my KE15 for a while. So last weekend I got off my bum and put the one I had in the shed in. Coil is designed for a points system with super low internal resistance so there is minimal "inductance resistance" in the coil Thus making a bigger charge BOOM more spark power. These coild can make up to 65,000V on a test stand simulating a V8 so should go good on a 4 banger right.... Well bolted it on hooked up my wires (noting it is a KE1X so no external resistor). And start car..... Struggles to idle can't rev past 1500 RPM pops splutter runs horrible well not at all really. So on went stock 40-year-old coil again runs fine... Now I do need a better coil at cruise of 100KM/H (4000RPM) car has a slight pop as the stock coil starts to "run-off" and it misses but due to high-speed can't feel or really hear the miss (I can hear it as with my straight through 2 inch exhaust it amps up the small pop once every 30-47 seconds a LOT..LOL) and yes I have timed the interval between misses and gets worse when coil gets hotter. So at first I though ah that super accel coil I had was dead so in the bin it went. Jumped on vil bay got one cheap working off a chev V8 I was told put it in the KE15 today SAME DEAL..... Coil misses, car wont rev past 1500RPM splutter wont idle at all really. What is going on? This coil ok ok I hooked it up with out a resistor I know it needs one as the primary windings in the coil have little to no resistance. But could this cause the miss fire and pop etc just by not running a resistor? Later when pulling apart car again will play with a spare resistor I ave to see if it will work with a resistor but so annoyed hope I have not purchased a dude and had 2 shit coils. Cheers Cameron

Your oil pressure is 100% OK :hmm: Leave the oil pump. The shims affect the by-pass pressure so max pressure of the pump will not affect/increase idle pressure. Idle in my 5K is 18PSI with 2.5mm shim in my pump I get 70PSI and the pump bypasses and wont go higher. Cheers Cameron

^^ Yeah I find with out string takes me a lot longer (5min more..LOL) But heads up USE waxed or nylon or smooth string course string can and might damage seal. Just incase don't wanna see you killer good gasket. Cheers Cameron

Hi All, Just a quick reply before bed. Note on oil cooler thing. WHy use stock go get a HKS one..LOL But oil will reduce in density as it gets hotter. I know I jsut finished learning this at UNI..lol (yes all I am at uni atm studying engineering.) anyway back to topic. Got cylinder head back today looks nice as but I have now see the damage poorly managed coolant and anti corrosion stuff can do :( my head is so badly corroded in parts not needing weld but would be nice to remove pitting on the face but due to being shaved before we couldn't grind it all out. So when this goes back together will be keeping an eye on the coolant temp..LOL But hey have an over flow bottle now so it is at least keeping the coolant in the engine..LOL But the head is as follows now: Stripped Cleaned Crack tested skimmed flat again exhaust and inlet ports de bured and slightly reshaped to flow better 4 yes 4 angle valve grind reassembled and ready to run :) Was cheap to so happy about cost. But when I got home to reinstall it I noticed I got a 3K head gasket with the head :( So waiting on my engine builder now to get me a 5K one. As for my cam lifters popped them all out last night and looked at my lobes. I think my eyes were playing tricks on me. Cam has the little like oil mark triangles where lifter doesn't touch the cam to make it spin so they must be turning. But will still replace one lifter due to it looking like crap..LOL My engine builder told me today he can re-grind lifters and to bring old ones to him any time so I have 1.5 sets of 3F lifters now so can stop looking to buy more at RIDICULS prices..LOL But in other KE15 news I got annoyed that I didn't have a head gasket so I started getting into dash to find fault of intermittent electrics. First radio. FOund lose speaker connection. Fixed and AM 4KQ is on loud and proud again :) Secondly found enough tape to repair and float the titanic again under dash holding nothing in spots one wire here etc. Pulled all out under dash much neater now found one loose earth on fuse box and main cause of loss of electrical is loose connector on back on gauge cluster so have to remove this weekend to sort out also. So still achieved lots and hoping when motor gets back together it just works ..... Cheers Cameron P.S. I shall post later about my new parts for the 5K I will build asap now and for a hint to all it is ignition parts :)