Farch

now has 16mm ram tube instead of the stocks (75 mm i think). since replacing the throttle linkage with a simple balance lever and getting rid off some air leaks the engine has shown one of symtoms of having too high comp and massive cams where the engine self accelerates when light throttle is applied then removed. Lowering the idle screw then resetting again gets it at the correct idle speed then as soon as you apply any throttle it will self feed again after. loading the engine up with the clutch to lower the rpm will also work to get it running at correct speed. apparently the only fix for this is to drill a small hole of the correct size in the throttle butterfly of each carbie so the butterfly then sits flat against the stop with no idle screwed in, the drilled hole should be controlling the idle. Only down side is i won't be to able modify the idle speed at all once set. have got this right? now if it only had brakes......

there 40 dcoe's and they running ok before with filter socks on them but those filters don't fit properly as the interfere with the strut tower. now twin k&n's are installed

i'm guessing i've somehow managed to introduce a air-leak around the soft mounts or something like that.

hi folks, I removed the ram tubes from the side draft webers to fit the new air filters on my highly modified 4k-c and it now holds rpm when changing gears and will increase idle by it's self sometimes is this because the of air leaks or some from removing the ram tubes? i've heard somewhere that the ram tubes on webers are used to help the venturi in place. i'm getting a friend to mill down the ram tubes so they fit beneth the filters will this fix it?

mine needs some tuning, went to the tuner with octane booster still in it so it kinda needs it now until i get another tune.....rookie mistake. but I'm hoping it'll run fine on 98.

my 4k's not running right but it made 70hp at the wheels on tuning runs, running 11.67 comp and a 295 degree 0.454 lift cam with twin side drafts and a 3k head. still more in it. the timing needs alot of work and haven't touched the head yet, and it's running with exhaust manifold i bought the car with.

Well it doesn't' come on till 3500 rpm and the cam runs out at 7500. But because the engine has 11.63 compression it's not too bad. But the idle's heaven.

my daily might not be so daily now.... twin 40DCOE webers 290/295 cam with .453 lift comp cams regrind. spool H beam forged rods ARP rod bolts 20" over bore pistons 11.63 compression dual valve springs roll master timing chain and sprockets special modded sump. the original flywheel has gone from 7.25kg to 5.5kg. 3k head with valve stem seal update full bottom end balanced block decked and honed exedy heavy duty clutch. crane cams xr3000 electronic optical ignition conversion, using 7M coil. regraphed distributor shimmed oil pump extractors redline dual carbie intake manifold redline filter socks (to be replaced with twin oval filters) rev's to eight...but only because any higher and the i risk cracking the block, if i have to rebuild again one day I will partial grout fill it, and it might need a bigger muffler. I thought the fact it only makes 70hp at the wheels would be a bad thing but it's one of the most fun cars i have ever owned. things on the do to list : new filters new exhaust. retune this video was of the old 5k that was in it, i was test fitting the carbie's and the electronic ignition. more vids to come along with pics

in terms of illegal mods, the rules are quite lenient. My other car is a 4.5 liter 180sx and is engineered in two states nsw and queensland, got the orignal cert in nsw and i just moved queensland this year got a mod plate no problem. it's just under 90 db and has gtr brakes alround and gtr wheels which, this is just begining of the mod list. i have studied the regs alot to get this car legal and there no excuse for a performance car being illegal. you can put a 3.5 litre engine in a 900kg corolla and get it engineered for christ sake, as long as the supporting mods are there ie: brakes. it seems most people don't even consider talking to an engineer BEFORE building a car.

I pick it up this friday and then drive it from sydney to brisbane. should be interesting.

got a phone call from the dyno tuner, only made 70hp is this a normal power output for a 4k? if so 4age going in.

looks sweet, I put spool forged rods in mine so it looks like I'll destroy the crank and block before anything else. I've limited mine to 8000rpm my cam is rated from 3500 to 7500 for that reason. but how power can I expect from these engines? this is my first 4k build.

just took way too much off the stocky, has gone from about 7.5ish kg to some like 5.7kg and yes the whole rotating asbembly was balanced.

my engine machinist told me that 4k's will start cracking blocks if pushed past 8000rpm, they need to be aleast part crout filled to stand up to those harmonics. and all that assumes that your rockers arms are still attached to the engine. your rods should be ok i've heard that factory 4k rods are pretty stout and handle quite abit of punishment. when I get my ke55 back from the tuner I'll tell how it goes, it's pretty much much stock bottom end but with 3k head and 295 cams and 8000 redline and twin carbs. if i blow it up quick you'll know your answer lol.

name: josh Car:1979 KE55 Coupe Motor & Driveline: 4K, Camtech CT003 608 290/295 degree cam 0.453 lift, double valve springs, 11.63 compression, roll master timing chain, spool forged rods, 3K head, 4K solid lift valve train, twin 40 dcoe webers, extractors, optical ignition conversion Suspension & Brakes:factory Wheels & Tyres:front 175, rear 185 Interior: standard, except for the tacho that we put in to replace the clock. and removed the centre console. Body: factory Other: cars currently being tuned so I'll put more photo's after if anyone's interested.