
supra2
Regular Member-
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Everything posted by supra2
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Hey Keith. It wont look that bad. I have run the rear suspension through its full travel and found it will need some positive camber at ride height. One good thing ive found is there is almost no toe change which means we can play around with ride heights at events and not need to readjust the alignment. Test fitting the glass boot. Got some weight on it to help compress the new seal.
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Everyone has seen those movies where the single guy brings home his date and she finds a motor bike frame on the coffee table and an engine in the bath tub. Been there and done that so I know how you feel Seabiscuit. ;) Got the new radiator fitted.
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Roll cage steel works out about 2kgs per meter. Ive used approx 36metres. If I include the base feet and tags to the body I recon about 75kgs in total for the roll cage. The IRS Vs Live axle weight. I don't Know if there would be much difference. I should have put it all on the scales before it went in the car. I think the Corolla diff, axles, leaf springs, U bolts and plates may be heavier. A live axle will always have more traction and grip over IRS on a smooth surface even gravel but IRS is better in the rough stuff. Lower rad mounts made.
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I did weigh it today at 870kgs. Still have to add approx 50kgs in fuel,oil and coolant and some major parts like head manifolds ect. Iam guesstomating around 950-1000 kgs in full rally trim. If it's under 1000kgs ill be happy.
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Hi Mika. I havent had any problems yet with them coming loose. It really is a pain when they do as I found out with my first bonnet I made about 5 years ago. I rough up both surfaces and use windscreen sealer, Its almost impossible to pull apart when dry, but I put in a pop rivet as well to be sure. Boot skins glued together. Weights in at 3.5kgs. The steel boot is 7kgs.
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Hi Seabiscuit. Everyone interested in cars needs a big shed once in there lives.It does help the motovation if you don't have to unpack the shed to drag your car out onto back lawn every time you want to do some thing. This is my second dash of this type but you learn some thing new every time. Thank You. What are planning on building? Got the reconed ALT and starter back from the auto elec.
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:thumbsup: Hey Stuart. We can't complain that we are to busy at work these days with the way things are in the world. One good thing about restoring cars is the stuff you unbolt will bolt back on in the same place,mostly. No modifying or fabricating. I did not think there were that many WBs left. You must have them all at your place.LOL Lightening the ALT bracket.
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Me to. The hatch 40 looks good in rally trim. Any more photos yet?
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Thanks Stuart for your allways positive and supportive comments. Still waiting for your new project. Justin, Great to see your car back together so quickly. Stick welding is hard to master for anything other than down hand. If Steve can learn arc welding then MIG TIG and OXY will be a walk in the park. Sounds like your glass bonnet was ahead of its time. Bonnet in primer.
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Bugger. Once it bends chassis rails its a bit harder to get straight again. I know some panel beaters wont touch a rally car if its been seam welded. I think I spent a rally season repairing panel damage after each event because I tried to save money on cheap and 2nd hand tyres. The money saved really didnt justify the extra work fixing dents. Bonnet is ready for paint.
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OUCH, Hope its not to major to repair. What tyres are you using?
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Cheers Rob. The Celica had similar vents and on occasion you could see heat vapour and sometimes oil mist from the catch can drifting out through the vents. We never had any problems with it fogging the screen.
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Listen to all the jokers. Vent placement is very serious. Much more important than horse power or getting around corners without hitting trees. ;)