lyricallyters

hey banjo, i havent taken the gearbox off yet, so i can't count the teeth on the shaft or clutch plate. i should have done beforehand but i didnt expect it to be different with a replacement part. i can't get the car in gear as it just makes this horrible noise when i press on the clutch pedal which makes me worried to even have it running! i guess its time to drop the gearbox again and investigate further.. thanks banjo

hey guys, just wanting a bit of advice, i have recently replaced my worn clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing with an excedy clutch kit in my 4k corolla. i used a tool to get it centred right and did everything by instructions in the workshop manual. the clutch cable seems to have way too much slack in it and when i push my foot on the clutch it makes a whinning noise.. can anyone give me some help on what i may have done wrong?! thanks

Just stick a brass fuel bolt in there. It works and doesnt leak i did it to my car and it runs perfect. I wouldn't risk pulling it apart as it will break the seal and wouldn't trust it together again as it would leak

i had this problem with a fuel pump that was on an engine i bought. i just bought a brass bolt and put that in there and it works fine and doesnt piss out fuel

What about just a corolla cruise instead of xe7x

I have tested out all three of said connections and they are all getting power. I have found two other wires in the engine bay which are live when ignition is turned on, maybe that has something to do with immobiliser or something. I'm pretty sure the immobiliser is in the dash behind the cluster. If I took this to an auto electrician would they know how together it started even tho it has immobiliser/alarm? I don't want to pay for hours of work and they don't fix it!

Thanks for the advice banjo, i tested pretty much all I have in the engine bay and it all seems fine. I went to the wreckers and found a wire on a ke30 that had pretty much everything ravaged, a wire that plugs into the two pin harness and plugs into a single pin harness then connects straight to the battery. I compared this to a couple of pictures and seen that it is correct so I thought I'd give e ignition a turn. I have all electrics: horn, indicators, fan, wipers, lights, even my central locking! I tried to turn it over but nothing. This could be because of the immobiliser as the dash light was not flashing, but I'm still pretty sure I don't have a circuit in the motor.

send them my way then! would anyone be able to post up some pictures of their ke30/55 around the +ve battery terminal so i can compare as a visual guide. i tested the connections and have power at the black connections and one side of the white two pin harness. i have the starter motor connected and have power, but do not have a relay in sight. maybe one of the connections with no power connects to the other side of the starter relay?

well i went out and took some photos, if it isnt clear enough what colour the wires are or anything please let me know! the first photo is on the positive side of the battery and the second and third photos are from over the coil/ distributor side of the motor. i know the red/light blue wires are for the reverse lights, but I'm not sure where the engine bay wires will go as i have already hooked up the ones near the console to the gearbox reverse light switch.

thanks for the diagrams guys, the labels make it a bit easier to read than the wiring diagram in the workshop manual. i should of explained earlier, as i bought the car as pretty much a shell with a few wires here and there, i am pretty sure i am missing a few parts, which is why i can make a circuit. if i get time later on i will try and post some pictures to make it easier to explain. what make this job harder is that it has a car alarm and central locking. shouldnt get in the way of testing the lights at least and fundementally should be easy to work out for someone who knows anything about this sort of thing. i have no fusible links in the engine bay, and can't find a voltage regulator. i have been informed by someone else off this site that i may have a bosch alternator which has an internal regulator? electrical is very confusing for me so i need someone to look at it for me.

looks exactly like mine!!

Hey banjo, yeah it was an auto I looked into that earlier and bridged the connection for the inhibitor switch in the gear stick. The problem I have is getting a proper circuit so I can test lights etc not sure about where fusible links go and have a few connections that aren't plugged into anything

problem solved!

Hey guys, I have a 1977 ke30 and have put a 4k 4speed from a ke70 into it and am just trying to get a circuit to start it up but am a bit lost. Would anyone be able to come have a look $$$ will be included if it can be started! Charles 0423146038

I have a problem with my clutch cable at the moment. I have the rubber spacer that goes in the firewall and the two circlips adjusted to maximum tension and hooked up to the clutch fork and it is still slack. Anyone know why it would be so loose? It's a ke70 cable on a 30 not sure if that's why.. Sorry to thread-jack banjo haha

I'm pretty sure that i did it correctly then, just not sure how to get neutral as i have no shifter. I'm looking to buy one if anyone can help!!

hey guys. so i have put my 5 speed extension housing back on my gearbox, and bolted up my tailshaft, and i can't seem to find neutral.. is there any knack to getting the extension housing back on, I'm guessing this is where i went wrong. i got it on but not sure if the linkages lined up right.. might have to take the tailshaft off and roll it to the mechanics

looks nice man

after a bit of searching of the forum, i found what I'm going to do..

sorted out the tailshaft problem. went to upullit and found the right one with the auto end on it and fits nice and snug. also picked myself up an auto gearbox crossmember and am planning on getting it welded to the manual crossmember. ahas anyone done that before? i am curious about the measurements i found it to be about a 30mm gap between both cross members but i don't want to be out cos it could make the difference of it fitting or not.. does anyone know of anyone good i can take this to get this welded up in adelaide?? thanks guys

there is no inspection plate on the diff but i found a stamp on there which had an "X" sort of logo?

hey guys, i am seeking the advice from anyone who has gone through the same turmoil i am experiencing at the moment. i am currently in the process of putting a 4k and 5 speed from a ke70 into my ke30. i bought it as a rolling shell, and had an auto in it previously. i have got to the stage of putting the gearbox in and after some research i realised that the extension housing that i had (ke70) would not work with my gearbox as it has the gear shifter too far back and the crossmember would be in the wrong spot. i sourced what i was told to be a ke55 extension housing and put it all together. The cross member bolts wont line up (is around 3 inches out), and the shifter is too far forward. i am prepared to cut the floor to make the shifter fit but i can't bolt the crossmember to the chassis. whats more is i checked that the tailshaft was the right length and it is spot on, but the holes on the tailshaft do not line up to the holes on the diff. is there an adaptor i can buy that will fix this problem or something? is this the wrong extension housing i should be using? do i need a different tailshaft? I have attached photos to help with my poor explanation skills. thanks in advance guys this has put a swift halt to my build and want to get momentum soon.

hey guys, i know this has probably been discussed many times, but i would like someone to fill me in on the differences between the different corolla gearboxes. i am currently up to the stage of a 4k 5 speed conversion in my ke30 and have changed my extention housing from the ke70 one as it wouldnt fit. i have a aquired a ke55? extention housing and a ke30 shifter but the bolts wont line up. just wondering if anyone can help me with sorting this out, maybe direct me to some pictures? thanks in advance! charles

cheers rian. they are a steel rim but are plated with something like chrome on the inner part as the other one is peeling. this set has got plastic hex key bolts which is a little different

hey guys, this might be a longshot, but i was wondering if anyone on here knows what these rims are? i have seen them before and they seem pretty common but can't find the name.. your help will be appreciated!! thanks!