jay_howie

Hey guys, Just about to strip down the rear end and rebuild it, but I have one quick question. Did a bit of searching and I can't find any solid info on this. Basically I want to use ke30-55 leafs for stiffness and I was hoping to also use ke30-55 shocks, but am unsure on the differences in length compared to the ke20 ones. Hopefully someone can clear this up for me =). Cheers, Jay

Hey mate, just search accu spark for nipon denso in ebay. Mine was listed as a ke20 conversion kit, so was made for my dizzy. Didnt have a part number so i can't help you there. Also the rotor does fit ontop perfectly now, just had to push the center piece down a bit further (was a tight fit)

Good news, got it all to fit. It was pretty tight and I guess i was worried about breaking it. Rotor now fits on top nicely! Thanks for your help

Condensor is already off, its an external type, it only goes on one way I'm pretty sure an its all the way down, will have a better look when i get home

Except the locating dowel doesnt reach! So it just spins and now the cap doesnt go on!

The reco'd radiator that some of you may have seem on ebay for some time. its not perfect, but a hell of alot better than my current one. I will get a custom alloy one made up in time but for now this is OK. The last photo is the ACCU electronic distributor conversion to a standard 3k ke20 late model point dizzy. it fits perfectly where the points and condenser used to live. The wiring grommet also fitted the external condenser hole perfectly. Only problem with this conversion? rotor wont fit on top! Low king springs (30mm) for front arrived also, in the next few months I will be taking the back end off, rebuilding then the front ends off, rebuilding and finally the engine in and wiring etc.

I went with the accu version. And from what I can tell is uses a magnet to deliver the pulse, much like a hall effect sensor. My only issue is that the rotor no longer fits on over this sensor, may have to chop the bottom off it Edit: Its probably easier to describe with a photo!

How about break. Its not something that stops your car!

Looks nice dude, i will be running a 3tc shortly too (have engine but its tired and needs a rebuild) I'm assuming its the same as the 2tg, just a te2x crossmember and t50 crossmember? Btw ke20rally do you work in the aviation evironment by any chance??

Yeah, I've done a bit of reading and some people seem to think that having the resister, although not necessary, can increase the life of the dizzy. I was wondering how true this was? Otherwise I will just go with a decent high energy coil as suggested. I got my conversion kit today! One other thing to consider may be which leads to use, are standard replacements not suitable anymore? Thanks!

What coil did did you end up pairing it with? And did you use a resister? Cheers

On their way are: - Electronic distributor conversion for my Nippon Denso 3k dizzy - Low King springs for front - Refurbished ke20 radiator

Wonder how dangerous that carbon fibre helmet would be if it splintered after a crash or impact, its bad enough getting those in ur skin, let alone your eyes

Hey mate, still waiting on the item, it said approximately 3 weeks postage, so I won't be able to update anything for a bit!

Last post 2 years ago dude, can u also please reply to my pm b-rad

Have purchased a working setup long motor for rego, and will continue to fully rebuild every part of the current 4k, but will take my time and put it in at a later stage. Long motor includes: 4k, with near new water pump, only needing a timing chain replacement Adding to this I will be purchasing new (3k variants): fuel pump, alternator, double row timing chain and tensioner, carb kit, filter, extractors and new 1 3/4 exhaust used items being fitted include: 3k bigport manifold, 3k carb, 3k clutch fan, 4k dizzy with electronic conversion kit, mounts, clutch, flywheel and k50, all of which are in fantastic condition. The brake system is going to be entirely new, all except the rigid lines. The suspension and bushes front and back are all being replaced. The bearings and uni joints in the diff and tail shaft are all being replaced. A brand new wiring loom and relays are being made. The interior is only getting Hyundai excel seats, new carpet and a tunnel patch/shift boot made up. All of the above will be done by Christmas or early January, this includes rego on the road. After rego will come the new dash pad, new relined seats, sound system, new classic gauges, new classic driving lights off a spare bumper, 4x114 conversion with brake upgrade, t50 short shift kit on k50 and in time a complete strip, repair and respray

No worries Agius. Jzupra, I have had a look into the conversion kit that you linked, seems like for half the money its probably the way to go, do you know if its works ok with the gt40 or other coil packs? ballast resister recommended or no? FYI just bought one from the US ebay site

You could try this to isolate the problem from front or back: take off the rear brake line from the master cylinder and blank it with a bolt or union blank of the same size, and then try using the brakes, you will soon know if its the rear drums. Basic troubleshooting starts by isolating parts of the system to work out which area you need to look into further. Hope that helps

Now before anyone yells at me, this isn't another "how do I convert to electronic ignition??" threads. Basically I found this kit on Summit Racing, and also on eBay, as follows: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-700-0292/applications/year/1982/make/toyota/model/corolla?prefilter=1 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/XR700-POINTS-CONVERSION-IGNITION-GT40R-COIL-KIT-ELECTRO-/111090066774?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19dd7be556 And I'm wondering if anyone has tried using this conversion kit to a points type dizzy and incorporated the GT40 coil with the ballast resister (or any coil pack for that matter)? It seems basically the same as finding a new or second hand 5k/7k dizzy and using that, but the parts can be had easier and you can retain your old dizzy, if that interests you. This will most likely be the path I will take. Any thoughts on this setup or experiences would be appreciated, Thanks As a side note for anyone who is interested, you can buy new point contacters from Summit Racing also: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bck-171-0250/overview/year/1973/make/toyota/model/corolla

Ok, so I've had basically no money at all until now, but I've done a couple of small things. - Swapped the hydo clutch setup out for a standard ke20 cable clutch pedal box - Swapped the mph gauge out for a kph one - Done a heap of research and organising, to work out exactly what I need for rego and beyond. - Cleaned up a front bar I purchased for $20 off a farm wreck, photos below of before and after thank you autosol! Basically its getting its brake system completely replaced, except the rigid lines, New shocks all round, front springs, new bushes and rubbers all round, new bearings, seals and oil in diff and gearbox, new mounts, wheel bearings and ball joints new uni's in the tailshaft, extractors and 1 3/4" exhaust new carpet, Hyundai excel seats with some seat covers and a basic running 3k/4k. After this I will run that engine untill the 4k on the stand is fully rebuilt, and then a simple swap over. I will also be doing a KE70 front and ke55 rear brake upgrade, and some new 14x6 wheels and tyres to suit. The interior will be getting new front windscreen seal and new dash (have to take the windscreen out to fit), centre console and stereo fitment, and new boot lining. Oh and probably a t50 short shifter kit fitted. I will also be cleaning up the rear bumper, and repainting the rear chrome vents, and add the original badge back onto the boot.

It is possible to get cable t50 setups, though they are rare!

ah nice, I would like to have this on the road early next year, which is much better than 3ish years haha

Picked up a new car, thanks bigblue! So from what I can tell, - Its a manual pedal box with a hydraulic clutch setup, - Crossmember for what could be a 3t/2t and same for gearbox. - km/h speedo - reasonable seats, retractable seat belts - fairly rust free body, plugs in floor pan need replacing though. - Surface rust in spare wheel well and unplugged drain holes - 3" cannon and what I think is a 2" pipe, end just after cat - upgraded front swaybar, but I don't think I'm happy with it, it doesn't look like it sits well on the ends where it mounts, has clearly chewed the bushes, standard sway bar is in boot - standard wheels and hub caps, minus the outside donut part. - cheap respray, not perfect but looks good from a distance, will eventually get resprayed anyways - glass is perfect, reasonable seals, doesn't leak - fuel tank looks like it has been replaced, some new lines there too. - gearstick hole has been moved back, but whoever did it has made a hack job of it, I think it may be too far back for my ke70 k50, but we will see only things that need to be done are, sort the hacked up wiring loom to get it back to original in prep for a 4K (basically the whole setup is for some other engine, so it may take awhile getting the setup back to how it was originally, change over both crossmembers to standard, same for mounts, ditch the hydro clutch for my cable pedalbox, and muck around fixing up exposed areas with some paint. 2 definite positives is that it appears to be currently registered, and the engine number code came up as 4kxxxxxxx, so common sense tells me that I shouldn't have much troubles fitting another 4k into this car, and yes I know the numbers won't match.

can't you just use the yoke from the k50 on your original tailshaft?

Had some issues with no cash flow recently, but have purchased a new daily, immaculate 07 vz wagon, finally found one in Perth that wasn't completely f#$ked. I've found that the cars here are a lot more damaged than say cars in VIC (where I'm from) and most people think its 'fair wear and tear'. For a 5 year old car? Yeah no. I'm actually a little worried about driving the ke20 when it eventually gets done, but hopefully I won't still be living here then! I hate WA!!!! Anyways, have since sourced most of the parts I'm missing, manual gearbox crossmember, gearstick knob, clutch pedalbox (still need cable), boot badge, and perfect front bar off a farm wreck up at gin gin. Will be pulling gearbox and remaining engine block soon, and will kickstart rebuilding the 4k and cleaning up the underside and engine bay of the car!