B-Lugg

I'll be getting rid of them - you'll be the first to know...

Thanks guys - I'm refurbishing some MA61 wheels that I picked up so these will be off shortly, can't wait to see how good they come up. The car has been running absolutely great lately (touch wood). I removed the T3 short shifter as I found it to be misdirected in the way it shifted and made a hell of a lot of noise, this way there should be less stress on the gearbox anyhow. The diff is still whining it's head off but I have a spare sitting around ready to swap through. I am finally getting around to moving it to QLD rego - I called the guy at modplates.com.au (the guy based in Brissy) He's a really friendly and helpful dude, just have to find the time to head to Brissy to get it all done, from there it's all smooth sailing. I found this gem today at the shops. Seemingly zero rust, paint was unreal, interior was near perfect and the chrome was shiny. Wish I had the chance to chat to the owner before I left! I love x32 Cressidas.

For those looking for information on the June 8 meet...

I will be there.

Good to see it getting some love straight off the bat. Good luck with it all dude.

I watched the video last night! Great short film. Highly recommend watching - even if (like me) you didn't follow the build.

Thread just got me re-motivated. Thanks for that. It's going to one hell of a car. Thank you for switching back to door mirrors - much better.

In the market at the moment - budget of around $200 give or take... Any specials I should know about?

Easiest - 5K-C Less easy - 3T-C Less Less easy - 4AGE Less Less Less easy - SR20 or 3SGE

I love seeing good fab work! Big fan of the side vents - very different. Great work.

I got bored and did this. Looks pretty cool.

I'm currently trying to source a T series diff to through in to the AE. I have found a whole bunch of information on the Series 2 T18 diffs which to my knowledge are a straight bolt in swap. However I have come across a series 1 T18 diff that I can buy but being series 1 doesn't have the sway bar mounts on the diff etc. I was looking to grab more information on what is required to fit the Series 1 Diff complete with swaybar and just to confirm that the series 2 will be a bolt in swap. Thanks.

I killed another diff! Struggling to source another in a timely fashion. I'l probably just rip this one out over the weekend and just wait until I source a decent one. I finally got another damn job so I can now poor income in to the thing instead of going to town on my savings (or what's left of them). Yay, cars. :y:

Can't wait to see this thing painted and everything.

I don't have experience with the KE55 diffs but KE70 diffs had a couple of different ratios. Best way to find out is just to check yourself!

Don't know how I've managed to miss this thread - I always thought that this thing was a just hacked up for fun going by the pictures on Facebook. Seems like your switched on and it will be one hell of a car when it's done! Good job! It really is a shame that Facebook is now my only source for parts now with the exception of retailers, that website is crammed with crap.

My 'new' diff is whining like a bitch and now knocking pretty loud - yay. Time for another diff. Very annoying considering I'm running piss all power. I don't know if it was just plain old bad luck that this one is giving out as well or these diff just really hate being pushed around bends - I'll probably bang another borgy or something in while I start looking at something else. Hilux conversion seems to be my favoured option at this point. T series is still viable though. It's one of those things that makes anger grow step by step.

I had a great day today. The diff was a little whiny probably because it had old shitty oil in it and I just topped her up with fresh oil to flush it. Been driving for a fair bit with it to make sure it loosens all the old crap. Got under it, drained and inspected - all good. Re-sealed with gasket goo, left for one hour finger tight and returned to tighten. All good - last bolt to go. Snapped the head off 1/8 of a turn past tight. Oh well, ezy out bits will get that shit out. Pilot hole in, extractor won't grip. Further pilot hole - drill bit snaps. Can't get the drill bit out, can't get the bolt out. It's all pretty butchered now. Gave up for the day after a couple of hours trying to get it out. This car just doesn't want to be fixed!

Somewhere between $50-$1000. Depends on what motor, what condition, what goodies... If you don't know too much about them - http://www.billzilla.org/4agstock.htm is a great place to start.

I got back under the rear to make sure everything is decent. Topped her all the way up with diff oil as I needed a pump to get it filled. The diff seems to have a tiny bit of a whine which is insanely annoying, and it seems the axle that I didn't replace is also slightly bent (Same wobbly wheel problem as the other side, just not as bad) You just can't trust anyones word on the condition of a part... ʞ©$ɟing pos. I also need to go through and adjust my brakes again - turns out i did a horrible job the first time around. I'll re-bleed all round and manually adjust the rear shoes again. Possibly even the right time to go bigger master cylinder. Having no self serve wreckers in reasonable distance will back it difficult to track down the little links that I will need. Contemplating dumping what little funds I have left to go T series - if my brothers T18 doesn't sell, it's becoming a donor car. EDIT - I do have one positive though, it rained tonight, with the new suspension and tyres it was an absolute grip monster even in the wet!

Cheers guys. I'm really hoping I get this gig. I left my old job a little while ago now, more than ready to start something I might like. There's a strange amount of money doing even stranger things! The Gold Coast is absolutely woeful employment wise compared to Melbourne, extremely grim for job searching and most of the time wages are absurdly low. Keep knuckling down and making them dollars!

WMMH: I gots myself a job interview at a Toyota dealership tomorrow, I might finally get to sell something I actually like!

Sure, send me a sticker and I can look in to scanning and cleaning them up. Those stencils are pretty cool, I'll see if I can manipulate them to be decent. If you have more images similar to that lying around, shoot them through.

I see where you're coming from though but as they would obviously be plotted for stickers, too much detail makes it impossible to weed them correctly, if at all. Also if you're going for a realistic silhouette, you have to be extremely creative and artistic - I am neither unfortunately! Anything that has been used for RC in the past I think has had the exact same problem, whether it be the RL/RT logo or any type or URL sticker.

You're right, it needs roof racks and fender mirrors! brb.