Hiro Protagonist

Not all aftermarket ones use the Allen screws, some (usually good-quality ones made for specific models, like TRD and some Razo) have screw threads. And grinding the top off the shifter to make it shorter is the stupid way of making a short shifter. Much better way is to heat the pivot-ball up and bash it further up the shaft.

Try (if you haven't already) asking on AE82 Owners Club, there's a great mass of 82 knowledge there, and plenty of people have changed to 92 or 101 brakes so struts/uprights etc would have been looked at a lot

It makes a huge difference, I know. I used to have 6x9s in the stock housings with no parcel shelf in the 82, sounded crap. Same speakers in a FRP/MDF-reinforced parcel shelf, with carpet covering the stock holes, and it was like a whole new system. Sub just adds to the effect, none of this mystical "cancelling" effect that so many people rant about.

Is it a stock gearknob? Maybe try squirting some WD40 or the like up underneath the knob to get some lube on the threads. Failing that, do what I did when I had to get my 102 gear knob off and use a BFFO shifter/adjustable spanner.

Hi KE55s don't need to run lead replacement because they have alloy heads, and thus automatically have hardened valve seats. Lead replacement fuels are mainly for cars with cast heads that don't have the hardened valve seats, hence are not needed here. However it might be worthwhile running it on 98 for a few tanks, and then keeping it at either 95 or 98. Remember, leaded had a higher octane rating than 91 unleaded, and you should adjust your timing to suit the new fuel too. K-series engines have never been powerhouses, and will feel a bit more sluggish when cold, even with choke on. Flooring it with the choke on will most likely be overfueling the thing to buggery (explaining the power drop). Once I got the hang of starting my KE55 when it was cold without the choke I almost never used it, much better to let the engine warm up before you boot it too much. The temp and fuel gauges on almost every KE never work properly. Poor electrical connections, corroded senders etc etc. And when one gauge goes, it has a nasty tendency of taking the other one with it. Not too much you can do apart from getting a different cluster with better gauges, re-running the wiring, running aftermarket temp + fuel gauges, or replacing the senders. But then again, it's not that much of an issue, and you'll learn to go off the odometer for when to fuel up as opposed to the gauge.

Maybe compare KYB strut part numbers for the 82 and 92. If they're the same, then chances are the Konis should work.

Might as well do all the other belts at the same time, plus water pump and crank seal if you're really into it.

Shocks have no bearing on ride height - it's all in the springs. Give the springs a bit of time to bed in, and they may settle, but remember that lows are often only 20-25mm or so lower than stock, and each compare has their own idea of low. And who knows how super super low the cut springs were, and how rooted.

From what I've read all A-series engines are non-interference, as long as you stay with stock rods, pistons and cam timings.

Unfortunately Newcastle is a little too far away for a beer run :fuzz: Post up a thread/pictures of the car, interested to know what's going to happen to it.

Thats why you have a new Corolla (well, new relatively speaking) to do the day-to-day stuff. Apart from the odd tiny niggle, my 102 has given me no problems whatsoever, and thats more than you can say for your average new Commodore.

I've had 1 AE102, 2 KE55s and 1 AE82. Well, the AE102 has been essentially given to me (it was my dad's car), can't see myself selling it because there's no need to - it does everything I want it to do, relatively cheap, now has decent go due to intake and exhaust, some suspension mods and it'll be fine for track and hillclimb days. The KE55 (technically only one, the second was a parts car) was bought for my g/f, 1) because it was a birthday present, 2) because it meant I wouldn't be a taxi anymore, and 3) because it shut her up. Oh, and it was cheap, and she liked the colour. Only ended up getting sold because it was costing too much to keep it going through rego (stupid rust and exhaust). The AE82 was bought because my g/f wanted a bigger car than the KE55, preferably a liftback, and she always wanted a Seca. The fact it was 4AGE'd just sweetened the deal. Although there's still it's fair share of problems with it, but you grow attached to your cars no matter what they are, just happened that all our cars have been Corollas.

If it won't start on 7 degrees BTDC, it won't start on 9. I've had the timing out by an estimated 40 degrees and the bastard still started - wouldn't run under load though, but it started.

Just go on eBay, they're a dime a dozen, shared with probably 50 other different models from a variety of different manufacturers. I THINK they're 7" rectangular H4 lights, and were a very popular shape during the 80s. Only set you back between $30 and $50 for a set, plus globes.

Compared to a redtop (ie 16v smallport), the silvertop 20v has roughly 15-20kw more (supposedly), 5 valves per cylinder (obviously) and VVT. It was released in the JDM AE101 Levin/Trueno models, so they'd have to come in as imports. Still an A-series engine, so engine mounts and gearboxes are still the same, but for a 20V 7AGE you'll need a different timing belt. 16v 7AGEs commonly use a Porsche 944 timing belt (may be 924), whereas I'm lead to believe the 20v 7AGE can use the standard 4AGE 16v timing belt. As for the exhaust, you can use either the 16v or 20v exhaust manifolds (you need to slot the two end holes though to get the 16v ones to fit on the 20v, and vice versa for 20v manifold on 16v head), but since the 7A block is 15mm taller than a 4A you'll need to weld an extension in somewhere to compensate for the extra height - shouldn't be too hard or expensive for your average local exhaust shop to do.

Start looking for AT160 Celicas then, the first of the FWD shape. They had 4AGEs, although not sure if they made it to the states. Also try the Corolla clones like the Geo Prizm. Alternatively, get friendly with your nearest Jap wreckers or importers, and get a 20v.

OK, you need to have the new remote, and an old one that still works. First, unlock the car and get in the passenger's seat. Then, open the glove box and insert the old (functioning) remote into the slot in the glovebox, button-end first and facing up. Then, the security light on the dash cluster will light up for 5 seconds. During those 5 seconds, remove the old remote and insert the new one. Then try using the new remote to open and shut the doors. If it doesn't work, then try again, making sure to get the new remote into the slot before those 5 seconds are up. If you don't currently have a functioning remote, then you'd probably have to take the car to Toyota and get them to pair the new remote with the BCM.

Got twig? I'm reasonably slim build ast 186 @ 95kg, although I'd love to get down to around 80-85.

And AW11 MR2s.....although since the OP said they had a DX, it's doubtful they're in Australia anyway.

Ahhh OneSteel.........such fond memories (not). Most of the uni digs are around that area, so check out Mayfield/Waratah/Warabrook/Jesmond for share-houses and I'm sure you could come up with something.

Sorry, been pretty busy with work lately, don't get much of a chance to get on the net anymore, plus can't do it at home since I'm in the process of formatting my laptop. Will have a look tonight at the books and post it up from work tomorrow

Were AT160s sold in Australia though? From recollection they weren't. And not all ST162s sold here were 3SGE and 5x100, the ST-spec had 3SFE and 4x100 wheels. SX had 3SGE and 5x100.

Aural porn Not DCOEs, but you can't knock 12 venturis.

Ok, one gain, but thats it. And you can get some pretty damn good induction noise on a 4A by using ITBs and trumpets, and still retain the EFI.

No 4AGE was carby. The E in 4AGE = electronic fuel injection. You can convert them, but it's a fair bit of work for arguably no gain unless you're class-restricted for a track car etc. And best factory carby A-series would be a 4AFC from an AE92.